Procedure and rules for making a chimney flare yourself

What is fluff?

To do this, let’s recall all the parts of a brick kiln:

Chimney diagram with elements

For presentation and general understanding, let’s post a photograph (a diagram showing the location of the fluff and the “otter”):

Recommendations for choosing bricks

Mostly red blocks are used. But one should not confuse and use porous fire-resistant bricks or hollow blocks for laying the chimney; the place of such materials is to construct the inner layer of the combustion chamber.

Separately, we note that for the construction of furnaces, a ready-made or home-made solution based on refractory or fireclay clay is used. The joints must be filled completely, without leaving even minor voids.

Bricks must withstand exposure to precipitation, temperature changes and strong winds. Let us present the necessary characteristics of such blocks.

Let's look at step-by-step instructions for self-construction of an “otter”, fluff of basic sizes.

Lining of gas and air pipelines

5.1. The lining of gas-air pipelines should be carried out in ties, with the exception of bend points and conical parts, where it should be done in rings or separate panels with a seam thickness corresponding to the design one.

The joint between the lining of the gas-air pipeline and the cylindrical pipe is made with a free connection (without ligation), with the exception of the lining of the hot blast air ducts of a blast furnace.

5.2. Asbestos sheets, if present between the lining and the casing, must be glued to the casing using liquid glass or fireclay mortar as the lining is laid.

5.3. It is recommended to line metal gas-air pipelines with separate drawers or sections before installing them in the design position, sealing the joints at the installation site of the gas-air pipelines. The number of joints, their size, placement and method of filling the joints are determined by the PPR.

It is allowed to lining gas and air pipelines with a clear diameter of less than 600 mm (500´600 mm with a rectangular cross-section) through holes left in the casing every 1–1.5 m, which are welded after the lining is completed.

When building a private home and installing a heating system, many homeowners are faced with the difficulty of laying a chimney. Quite often, red ceramic bricks are used for this work, which must be laid using a special oven mortar. We will talk about how to choose the composition used for laying the chimney in this article.

Many homeowners mistakenly believe that for laying a chimney they can use ordinary cement mortar, which was used for laying brick walls. However, experts do not recommend using it when laying a stove and chimney. The fact is that during operation the chimney is subjected to significant thermal and chemical loads, and a conventional binder mixture cannot be used in this case. It is necessary to use special thermoeffective mixtures that can withstand increased thermal loads with equal ease and are resistant to various acids.

For laying the stove pipe, it is recommended to use compositions that are normal in terms of fat content, since they are characterized by proper plasticity and are not prone to cracks. For this work, complex compositions are used, consisting of several components. Binders based on sand, cement and lime are very popular. Also on sale you can find ready-made mixtures intended for bricklaying, characterized by excellent heat resistance.

The only drawback of such dry mixtures for masonry is that they are expensive. Therefore, many homeowners, when engaged in such construction work, prepare the solution themselves.

You should also pay attention to the density of the composition used. The prepared mixture should be homogeneous, the structure vaguely resembles sour cream

It should be slightly squeezed out when laying bricks, but should perfectly hold together the materials used. The following compounds are used for this work:

1. Clay.
2. Calcareous.
3. Cement with the addition of lime and chamotte.
4. Lime-gypsum.

High-quality clay compositions with the addition of cement and sand were successfully used for chimney laying in the past, but today they are gradually being replaced by other, high-quality and inexpensive compositions. The clay-based composition is resistant to high temperatures, but it can be destroyed when exposed to moisture. That is why it is necessary to install a large metal umbrella over the stove pipe, which will completely prevent water from getting inside the stove. When using clay mortar for laying a brick stove and chimney pipe, you must remember that using wet, fresh firewood as fuel in this case is not recommended. This will also lead to failure of the chimney.

Otter and fluff with smoke channel 140 x 270 mm

The size depends on the thickness of the seams and the quality of the blocks. When calculating the amount of shift of bricks, the minimum amount of shift of blocks in each row of 70-75 mm is taken into account.

Performing the fluff order

Chimney fluff order 140×270

Laying the fluff begins with laying the neck of the stove. The work is carried out in several stages.

Performing an otter order

This part is performed with permanent dressing. You will need to lay out 9 layers of brick. In the middle part of the structure you will need to lay cut parts to maintain proportions.

Note that the overhang masonry begins on the right side of the channel and extends ¼ of the length of the brick. To protect against the rapid formation of a layer of soot on the bevel, we plaster it with cement mortar. This treatment will not allow condensation and water to linger here.

System calculation rules

The purpose of their implementation is to select the optimal height and cross-section of the gas exhaust channel to ensure effective traction. The last characteristic is very important. If possible, it is best to have professional calculations done. If not, you can use averages. There are three main sizes that are widely used:

• Six. This is a square-shaped pipe having a row of six blocks. The dimensions of the internal channel are 250x250 mm. Used for Russian stoves and fireplaces, where minimal resistance to the flow of heated gases is required.
• Five. The chimney with a rectangular cross-section is formed by five elements. Section 125x250 mm. It is used for heating and cooking-heating devices.
• Four. A structure made of four bricks in a row. Size - 125x125 mm. Installed for low-power solid fuel boilers and kitchen stoves.

When choosing the height of a future structure, the following standards should be taken into account:

• If the roof covering is fire hazardous, the structure is placed at least 150 cm above it. For non-flammable materials, this value is 50 cm.
• The minimum distance between the grate head and the grate is 500 cm.
• When constructing a chimney on a ridge or at a distance of no more than 150 cm from it, the height of the part is 50 cm above the roof level.
• When installing a structure at a distance of 150 to 300 cm from the ridge part, its length is equal to the height of the ridge.
• If the structure is further than 300 cm from the ridge, it is allowed to be built below it. But the line drawn conditionally through the ridge and deflector should have a slope of 10°.

Fluff and otter with smoke channel 270 x 270 mm

This option differs only in size; all basic operations are performed according to a similar scheme.

Laying fluff

Chimney fluff order 270×270

To construct the fluff, we lay out 7 rows of blocks.

Otter laying

To lay an otter, you will need to lay 7 rows of blocks:

The next stage is to form the neck, reducing the external dimensions to 510 mm on all sides of the pipe. Having completed the laying of the pipe neck, we move on to forming the head and installing the protective cap.

Proper installation of a chimney for a wood-burning fireplace and stove

The peculiarity of firewood as a fuel is the great heat it produces. It follows from this that the temperature of the smoke in a wood-burning sauna stove or fireplace will be high, but uneven. Not every chimney can withstand such prolonged exposure.

Most often, heat-resistant bricks are used to install a chimney for heating devices such as a sauna stove or a fireplace with a wood-burning firebox (see Do-it-yourself chimney).

Making a brick chimney

The correct diagram of a brick chimney in general terms may look like this:

Fluff ordering scheme

You should know: all masonry work on the outside of the building must be done with the addition of cement and water to the solution!

Otter order chart

Apron under otter brick chimney

You should know! To prevent water from stagnating on the otter's ledge, it is necessary to make corner slopes of cement plaster on all four sides.

We make plastering slopes on the otter

A graphic diagram of a brick stove chimney for a house or bathhouse is shown in the figure below.

Scheme of a two-bell chimney

It is the two-bell smoke exhaust system that is optimal for use in large stoves and fireplaces with large wood-burning hearths. It provides more or less uniform heating in the room, and also has a minimum of obstacles to the movement of smoke to the exhaust duct.

Features of a double chimney for a fireplace

Another chimney option is a double pipe. On the outside it is made of brick, and inside there is a metal cylindrical part. If the pipe is made of stainless steel, then this chimney option is suitable for installing a gas boiler.

Combined double smoke exhausts for fireplaces have a number of advantages over brick ones:

The figure below shows a diagram of a chimney for a fireplace or gas boiler that has a combined structure.

Fireplace chimney installation diagram

The peculiarity of this design is that it is usually made in a radical design, and not mounted. That is, the chimney itself is located directly next to the heating unit.

After laying

After completing all construction work, we be sure to check the quality of draft in the pipeline:

This time we carefully inspect all surfaces of the chimney pipe and mark the places of gas leaks. After the stove has cooled, we eliminate the shortcomings and heat the stove again.

Only after the surfaces have completely dried can you lay a full firebox of wood and proceed to operating the heating unit. Having completed all the work according to the rules, and making sure of the quality of the work performed, you get a warm atmosphere in the house, with the aroma of burnt firewood, even in severe frosts.

Source

Simplified type

This type of chimney is without otter. It doesn't even have a fluff. To strengthen the structure, a frame is made in the chimney, or more precisely, along its perimeter. Using threaded connections, the frame is attached to the chimney. Make sure it is attached at ceiling level. Then it is fixed. Fixation is carried out to the floor beams. The frame can be fixed with metal plates. You can also use construction reinforcement for this procedure.

What exactly you choose is not so important. The main thing is that the chimney is strong and does not wobble

To carry out sealing, metal sheets are used.

Protective aprons are placed in the groove. Before this they are bent. The planes of the groove in this case are slotted. To prevent moisture from entering, all contact areas are treated with sealant

It doesn’t matter what kind of sealant it will be.

If you use already used brick for masonry, plaster the internal channel. Surfaces must be smooth.

Think for yourself which design is most suitable for your premises. You can consult with a specialist.

Only you can decide whether you will entrust the construction to a professional, or whether you will build a brick chimney with your own hands. But in any case, the product must be reliable and safe in order to effectively perform its functions.

Laying a brick chimney pipe

In this article we will pay attention to the difficult aspects of laying a brick chimney stove. Our products (chimneys, casings) protect the pipe head from destruction, but work reliably only when the pipe itself is laid out correctly.

The most reliable chimney will be a pipe made of red burnt and solid clay brick, lined with porous and warm lime mortar. The seams of such a chimney breathe inside, do not fog up, and allow air to pass through well, thereby ensuring a long service life of the brick pipe.

The cement-sand mortar familiar to many is not suitable for laying chimney pipes under the roof. It cracks relatively easily from temperature changes, does not allow air to pass through and is very dense. Due to the fact that the solution fogs up, drips form, which, when mixed with soot, penetrate through the seams of the stove walls and spoil the whitewash, and also emit an unpleasant odor. Instead of lime, clay can be added to the solution. But the head of the pipe (above the roof) is often laid out with cement, and this is correct.

The efficiency of the pipe depends on the draft force, which, in turn, depends on the height of the chimney.

The minimum height should be 5 m. The closer the head of the product is located to the ridge of the roof, the greater the height of the chimney and the smaller the head itself. The draft in the chimney is created by air flows coming from bottom to top. This movement of air masses creates a slight vacuum, and draft appears in the riser of the structure.

Brick chimney diagram and basic terms

How much will it cost

It is difficult to say definitively how much it will cost to build a brick chimney. It all depends on various factors. If you turn to stove makers, in addition to the cost of consumables, you will have to pay well for their services. And this will double the cost of the chimney.

If you do the masonry yourself, then the cost of the structure will depend only on the purchased materials (brick, cement).

In conclusion, it is worth noting that laying a brick chimney on your own is a long, labor-intensive and responsible process. There is no point in experimenting here. Having absolutely no skills in construction, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists. Since the life and health of you and your loved ones depends on the proper operation of the chimney.

Selecting material for laying a brick chimney

An important point when building a chimney is the choice of brick. At different stages of the construction of a smoke exhaust duct, you can use different types of bricks:

Important! Porous, lightweight and hollow bricks are prohibited for use in the construction of a chimney.

The laying of different parts of the structure is marked by using a working solution of different composition:

Chimney foundation installation

A separate foundation is required only for pipes belonging to the indigenous group. For example, the foundation for a boiler room chimney.

The foundation is laid similarly to the foundation for a furnace, using the same methods and taking into account the same requirements.

And the actual installation of the boiler room chimney is carried out according to a pre-calculated order.

Preparation work, necessary materials and tools for work

• Foundation. If the investment is large (more than 500 cents), then it is necessary to build an additional foundation for it. If the pich is small, it won’t be too heavy.
• Thermal insulation is available for all types of stoves: both large and small.
• Dimokhid. In no case is the dimar liable to contact the beams on the stele. Also, stand between him and all the beams, but approximately the same.
• Pipe. The pipe protrusion is obov'yazkovo guilty but more than half a meter, but not more than a second.
• Rotating the stove. The place to choose is consistent with the information about the pipe and the flame, so that you can wash it over the stove.

If all insurance points are covered, then there are a lot more:

• It is better to stir the stove so that it scorches more of the area. For example, since there are a number of small rooms in the cabin, it is better to spread out not in one of them, but between them, so that everything is scorched.
• If you need to heat one room, then move the stove closer to the wall, rather than against it.

Furnace masonry

The smoke channel of the furnace cannot be less than 130x130 mm. This chimney cross-section corresponds to a stove with a heat output of up to 3500 W. For stoves of higher power, the chimney cross-section should be 260x260 mm. Depending on the cross-sectional size of the smoke channel, masonry is carried out in several ways:

Before laying a brick chimney, a cap pipe is installed. It is erected with the obligatory observance of brick dressings. The mounted pipe is laid out directly above the fireplace or on the stove in the shape of a rectangle approximately 4-6 bricks in size. A cavity is left inside the structure - a smoke well. The nozzle pipe ends before reaching five or six rows to the ceiling.

Types of long-burning stoves

If you have planned to build a long-burning stove with your own hands, you have all the tools and you are not afraid of difficulties, then you will certainly need the information from the next section of our review - in it we will talk about the varieties of these stoves.

Potbelly stove

The simplest of all stoves is the potbelly stove. It is an iron stove assembled from an old gas cylinder or from sheet metal. In order to ensure long-term combustion, its internal volume is made very large - this is most easily realized in models made of sheet steel, you just need to select a drawing that is suitable in size.

This stove can operate on wood, coal, or compressed solid fuel. It is easy to use, easy to melt and produces a large amount of heat. It is also characterized by unpretentiousness. If you need a simple stove for your dacha, feel free to choose a potbelly stove - it will be the simplest and most affordable option.

Wood stove fireplace made of brick or stone

This option is good because we can implement long-term combustion in it and work on the design. The network contains drawings of similar stoves with large combustion chambers and afterburners - these are so-called pyrolysis units. They burn not only fuel, but also gases formed during pyrolysis. A brick unit will be bulky, but very effective. Here are its advantages:

• Long-term heat retention through the use of brick or stone;
• Excellent appearance - just find a suitable project and make neat masonry;
• Possibility of working in residential premises, unlike the same “bubafoni”.

The disadvantage is that to assemble such a long-burning stove you will need experience in bricklaying.

Bubafonya stove

The presented long-burning stove has impressive dimensions, runs on wood and has an extremely simple design - depending on the volume, it can burn for up to 20-24 hours, without requiring frequent approaches to laying firewood. To make it, you will need a pair of metal containers with lids (100-200 liter barrels are suitable), pipes for the chimney and air supply, as well as a channel to create a weighted piston.

The “Bubafonya” long-burning stove is most often used for heating non-residential buildings - garages, greenhouses with garden crops growing in them, technical premises and utility rooms. Some craftsmen equip it with heating circuits, which allows them to heat living rooms without the risk of filling them with acrid smoke.

Brick chimney outlet above the roof

The resulting thickening on the pipe is called “fluff” and is performed at the level of the ceiling. From it to the roof, through the entire attic (in height), a part of the pipe runs, called the riser. On the outside of the roof (roof) there is a second thickening (otter).

To protect against moisture penetration into the attic space, in the place where the pipe passes through the roof, the chimney pipe on the roof is waterproofed.

The otter hangs 100 mm from the pipe above the roof surface along the entire perimeter of the pipe and drains precipitation onto the roof.

Just above the outer part of the roof, above the otter, there is a pipe neck, the area of ​​which in plan is equal to the area of ​​the riser. At the upper end the neck widens. This is where the heading is done.

Above it, in order to protect the pipe from moisture (rain, snow, etc.) and improve draft, a chimney (wind vane) is placed.

Fluff and otter are the most technically complex elements of a chimney. They are laid, lengthening from row to row by 60-70 mm in length and width.

The fluff is placed at a small distance from the roof. Typical fluff order:

Otter order (option):

There are options for making otter from reinforced reinforced concrete and fluff with special fillers.

But, if you are laying a brick chimney, we advise you to choose them only if you have the necessary work experience.

Vertical control is carried out using the construction plumb line. Brick laying is carried out with offset seams (i.e. dressing is done).

How much will it cost

Over the course of three centuries, the brick chimney on the roof has become a visual constant. And a building with such a finish looks, according to subjective assessments, much more attractive.

All that remains is to determine how much compliance with the canons will cost you. If you involve third-party craftsmen, the cost of the work will also be added to the cost of the brick. And she's quite big. In St. Petersburg and the region, for example, laying one brick will cost from 50 to 90 rubles.

The solution, if you prepare it yourself, is free.

Five kilograms of ready-made masonry mixture cost 60-70 rubles. One package is enough for 10-15 rows of pipes with a cross-section of 125 by 250 mm (sixes).

Let's compare the cost of a meter of a metal sandwich pipe with a diameter of 250 mm and a brick pipe with a cross-section of 250 by 250 mm. Just the kind that can be used for installing fireplace chimneys.

Basic masonry criteria

The chimney pipe in the installation is practically no different from the stove masonry. Some difficulties are caused by installation at the point of transition through the widening device located above the roof and attic floor.

The main requirements of the masonry are: tight filling of the joints, verticality of the mass, smooth surface of the chimney channels.

The installation of the mounted pipe is a continuation of the furnace masonry, because it stands on the roof, and a solution similar to the furnace masonry is used up to the point of transition through the attic covering. In the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling, a horizontal groove is installed, in other words, the walls are widened; this technique is carried out to ensure fire safety. Simultaneously with dressing the seams, the pipe is installed and cut, the internal channel is made with one section, and the outer wall slowly expands - this factor is achieved by letting the outer masonry in each row (by 4 cm).

Between the wooden beams and the cutting it is necessary to install fire-resistant thermal insulation, for example, basalt mats. Within the attic space, the installation of the riser is carried out according to the beacon, thus, 2-3 rows of the chimney pipe are laid out above the groove. A plumb line is lowered from the roof area to one of the corners; for these purposes, a nail is driven into the point of the roof sheathing from which this plumb line is lowered.

After which a nylon thread is tied to the nail, the lower end of this thread is also attached to a nail driven into the corner, which is located in the seam of the chimney masonry. The masonry is laid along this angle, which is checked with a square or by measuring the diagonals after 3-4 rows. Laying a chimney pipe above the roof presents some difficulties; in this place the masonry is done using a complex clay-cement mortar.

Typical mistakes when constructing a chimney

There may be malfunctions in the operation of the heating device due to defects that were made during the laying of the chimney:

Classic version

This device looks like a straight pipe. It has a rectangular cross-section, and sometimes it has a square cross-section. A damper is mounted in the section.

For its construction, fire-resistant bricks are used. Be prepared for the work to be quite challenging. It is very important that the surface is perfectly flat. And make the mortar joints as thin as possible.

It is best to use clay mortar for laying brick chimneys. Ready-made mixtures from a solution are also used for this. First of all, a pipe is built. It's called the nasal one. It needs to be built directly on the stove. Here you need to install a valve.

The pipe expands several rows before it overlaps. This expansion is called fluff. It serves as protection for wooden structural elements from the hot surface of the pipe.

The size of the fluff ranges from twenty to forty-five centimeters. To make it more convenient to expand the brickwork, you can install rods made of metal into it. You can use fittings.

The pipe in the attic will narrow a little. Then, it goes all the way to the roof. However, its dimensions no longer change.

Pipe laying with fluff and otter

Pipe laying with fluff and otter

Before you start laying a pipe, you should know what main parts it consists of. The mounted pipe is always installed on the stove, that is, on the ceiling, which is not brought two or three or more rows up to the interfloor ceiling, or on the neck of the stove, that is, the neck of the fluff. You can install a valve in the neck of the furnace or, as an addition, a view.

Above the neck of the furnace, when approaching the interfloor ceiling, the masonry is widened, forming a groove or fluff with a thickness, counting from the smoke, of 260 or 380 mm. They lay it out in several rows of masonry in height. Above the fluff, a riser runs through the attic space, that is, a flat part of the pipe that leads to the roof itself. Above the roof, a second fluff is made, called an otter, which hangs 100 mm above the roof on all four sides. This overhang ensures the drainage of runoff atmospheric water onto the roof. If this is not done, then water will flow down the riser, destroying it and moistening the attic space. Above the otter, place a pipe neck of the same cross-section in external dimensions as the riser. Then the masonry is widened, forming a head. To protect the pipe from destruction, a cap or weather vane made of roofing steel is installed above it, which, in addition to its safety functions, also improves draft in furnaces (Fig. 87).

Rice. 87. Pipe and its parts:

1 — metal cap; 2 — pipe head; 3 - pipe neck; 4 - cement mortar; 5 - otter; 6 - roof; 7 - sheathing; 8 - rafters; 9 — pipe riser; 10 — fluff (cutting); 11 - beam with ceiling; 12 - insulation; 13 - smoke valve; 14 — furnace neck

All protruding parts of the pipe above the roof should be covered with roofing steel or treated with cement mortar, giving it a slope that allows water to drain. It is best to plaster the pipes with cement-lime or cement mortar and whitewash them with lime. Plastered pipes last longer.

As mentioned above, the cross-section of chimney channels can be different and the fluff and otter must be installed differently, but strictly bandaging the seams. Let's consider the masonry of fluff and otter with channels of different sections.

Masonry of fluff and otter with a smoke channel 140x270 mm (Fig. 88). Depending on the thickness of the seams, the channel dimensions may be 10 mm smaller. The laying of fluff and otter is considered in such a way that their length and width increase in each row by 1/4 of a brick (60–70 mm), which mainly depends on the thickness of the seams.

Rice. 88. Laying fluff and otter with a smoke channel 14x27 cm:

a - general view of the pipe; b - fluff order; c - otter orders

The laying of the fluff begins at some distance from the roof of the furnace, on which the mounted pipe is located. This distance may consist of several rows of masonry, often called the neck of the furnace. In this case, the fluff consists of six rows.

The first row is the neck of the pipe, made of five bricks with dimensions of the smoke channel of 140x270 mm and outer sides of 510x380 mm.

The second row is the beginning of the fluff with external dimensions of 590x450 mm. To obtain such dimensions, quarters and halves of bricks are inserted into the masonry. Inside the fluff, to limit the size of the channel, “plates”, crushed bricks 30–40 mm thick, are inserted. The size of the smoke channel in all rows of fluff masonry remains unchanged.

The third row of fluff has dimensions of 650x510 mm. Inside the fluff masonry, “plates” of brick about 6 cm thick are inserted.

The fourth row has external dimensions of 710×570 mm. Bricks 90-100 mm thick are inserted inside the fluff.

The fifth row is laid entirely from whole brick.

The sixth row is the same as the fifth, only the ligation of the seams is strictly observed. As the height of the fluff increases, the fifth and sixth rows alternate.

The seventh row is the beginning of laying a pipe riser of five bricks. It is brought one or two rows above the roof level, and then the otter is erected.

It is placed on a riser with careful ligation of the seams. This masonry is considered in nine rows. Each row protrudes forward by 1/4 of a brick. In the middle, that is, inside the otter near the smoke channel, brick plates are inserted of such thickness that they do not reduce or increase the size of the channel.

The first row is laid in five bricks. He is a boner.

The second row only increases the length of the masonry with a protrusion of 1/4 of a brick on both sides, for which you have to insert a half and a three-four, and place a brick plate inside the otter in the channel.

The third row is laid so that its length remains unchanged, and the width on one side (the lower part of the otter) increases by only half a brick to form an overhang.

The fourth row is placed as shown. The overhang also increases on the sides.

The fifth row is performed as shown in the order.

The sixth row is laid out so that the overhang on the sides lengthens. Its width and length are equal to two bricks.

The seventh row completely completes the laying of the overhang on three sides.

The eighth row is laid according to the order and its overhang is released from the last fourth side.

The ninth row is laid like the eighth, with careful observance of ligation of the seams.

The tenth row shows the laying of the pipe neck in five bricks. Having laid out the entire neck of the pipe, they proceed to the head, the laying of which is not difficult, since it is carried out in the same order as fluffing.

In the considered version of the otter masonry, you should pay attention to the fact that its right side, starting from the second row, widens by a quarter of a brick compared to the masonry of the riser. You don’t have to do this, but leave it the same as the riser. This will be discussed below.

To ensure water drainage from the head of the pipe and the otter and protect them from rapid destruction, cement mortar is poured onto them, leveled so that it has a bevel, and smoothed.

The masonry of the fluff with a smoke channel of 270x270 mm (Fig. 89), with a wall thickness of 380 mm, counting “from smoke”, is not much different from the previously considered option. It also requires careful bandaging of the seams and laying parts of bricks of different thicknesses: fours, halves, three-fours.

Rice. 89. Laying fluff and otter with a smoke channel 27x27 cm:

a - general view of the pipe; b - fluff order; c - otter orders

The first row is a pipe neck made of six bricks with an outer size of 510x510 mm, with a smoke channel of 270x270 mm.

The second row is the beginning of the fluff with external dimensions of 640x640 mm. The masonry is made from a whole brick, only for the inner part of the fluff the brick has to be split lengthwise into two parts.

The third row with external dimensions of 770x770 mm is laid entirely from solid brick.

The fourth row with external dimensions of 910×910 mm is laid using the whole brick and its parts.

The fifth row with external dimensions of 1030 × 1030 mm is laid out from whole brick.

The sixth row is the same as the fifth, only the dressing of the seams is different. If it is necessary to increase the height of the fluff, lay out the fifth and sixth rows alternately.

The seventh row is similar to the first and is a pipe riser.

The otter is placed on a riser of six bricks. It consists of seven rows.

The first row is a pipe riser made of six bricks.

The second row is the first row of otter masonry with a widening on one side to form an overhang.

In the third row, overhang bricks are laid on both sides.

In the fourth row, the overhang on the sides is lengthened and increased to one and a half bricks.

The fifth row is similar to the third, with an overhang length of up to two bricks on each side.

The sixth row completely completes the design of the overhang. Inside the otter, 1/4 of a brick is laid, that is, without reducing the size of the smoke channel.

The seventh row is similar to the sixth, only the difference is in the dressing of the seams. The thickness of the overhang becomes equal to two rows of masonry. If you need to increase the height of the otter, then the last two rows alternate.

Above the otter, a pipe neck of six bricks is placed, over which a cap is made.

It should be pointed out that when laying otters, some bricks have to be given the desired shape by gouging them out in places.

From the two examples of fluff and otter masonry considered, it is clear that brick masonry is quite complex work. They are easiest to make from reinforced concrete.

For reinforcement, use 5-7 mm steel (iron) wire at the rate of four to five rods on each side of the slab. Two reinforcement bars must lie on the brickwork.

The fluff board or otter board can be made on site or separately and then installed. In both cases, it is necessary to make formwork. When making a product on site, the formwork is secured as firmly as possible. The width of each side of the formwork should be at least 250 mm “from the smoke”, but it is better to leave 380 mm. It's more reliable. At the edges of the formwork, bars or boards are nailed so that they rise above the formwork to the required thickness of the slab (for a fluff of at least 50 mm). A board or plywood should be inserted into the pipe channel to prevent concrete from getting into the channel.

This is how the work is done. Install and secure the formwork. Prepare the required amount of reinforcement. Prepare concrete or cement mortar. To prevent concrete or mortar from sticking too much to the formwork, it can be painted with a liquid clay mortar. A layer of concrete or mortar equal to half the thickness of the future product is applied to the formwork, it is compacted well and the reinforcement is laid so that it is at least 2 cm from the edges of the slab. Then the remaining material is laid, compacted well and leveled (Fig. 90). The pipe riser is usually laid on a slab. To prevent the brick from firmly grasping the concrete, the latter is covered with a thin layer of clay mortar at the place where it is laid, or the masonry is simply laid using mortar. The formwork should be removed no earlier than after three weeks.

Rice. 90. Making a reinforced concrete otter:

a - formwork with installed reinforcement; b - section of the slab; c - slab in stove masonry; 1 - chimney; 2 - stove masonry; 3 - fittings; 4 — sides; 5 - formwork; 6 - plate

The manufactured slab serves as a support for the fluff, which is made of brick, without connecting it to the pipe masonry.

A slab of the required size can be made in advance, but you should know that 1 sq. m of slab 10 mm thick weighs about 25 kg.

To make fluffing easier, you can do this. Four slabs are made of such a size that they can be used to line (fix with clay mortar) the pipe, and four side slabs, installing them along the edges of the supporting slab, firmly fastening them and caulking all the cracks. The height of the slabs should be 250–300 mm. The “box” thus obtained is filled with brickwork, fuel slag or slag mixed with clay, or lime, or sand, or dry earth without plant impurities (Fig. 91). It is much better to make side railings from two halves. But you can make a slab with sides right away.

Rice. 91. Making fluff with filler:

1 - stove masonry; 2 - reinforced concrete slab; 3 — side plate; 4 - filler; 5 - facing slabs around the pipe; 6 - chimney

The otter is made either in the form of a flat slab 20–30 mm thick, or a slab with slopes (with a slope). The slab is well reinforced. It should hang over the pipe on all sides by at least 100 mm. At the bottom, otters always make teardrops, that is, grooves at least 5 mm deep, positioning them 10–15 mm from the edges (Fig. 92). They will protect the clay mortar from erosion and the attic floor from moisture.

Rice. 92. Making a reinforced concrete otter:

a - otter in plan view; b - position of the otter on the pipe; 1 - teardropper; 2 - otter; 3 - stove masonry

Brick pipes above the roof should be plastered with cement-lime or cement mortar, as well as 50-100 mm below the roof.

The otter, neck and head can be made of monolithic or precast reinforced concrete with a thickness of 30 to 50 mm.

We remind you once again that brick and other pipes must be inspected at least once, preferably twice a year, and if defects are found, they must be corrected immediately.

This text is an introductory fragment.

Continuation on liters

Make it yourself or order it

Tips for choosing

At the beginning of the 20th century, when gas and electric heating were unavailable, stone and brick stoves were widespread. There were many good styling professionals, much more than there are now.

If you decide to order a fireplace or stove and seek the help of a specialist, be sure to pay attention to his professionalism. To do this, it would be a good idea to look at the documents confirming his qualifications and familiarize himself with the portfolio of works.

A poorly constructed chimney is life-threatening. Insufficient draft will lead to the formation of dangerous carbon monoxide, which kills more than one and a half million people every year. In addition, the occurrence of backdraft can lead to fire. Even if a disaster can be avoided, the chimney will still have to be rebuilt, and this is a double expense.

If you decide to make a chimney yourself, carefully read all the requirements of building codes and fire safety.

The chimney can be of 3 types:

Mounted. Here the oven serves as the base. The minimum thickness of the furnace walls is 2 bricks.

Root. Located on a separate foundation. The smoke outlet pipe of the boiler or stove is connected to the chimney through a connecting transfer hose.

Wall. It is a channel in a load-bearing wall.

Whatever chimney you choose, I personally recommend that when choosing to install it yourself, do not neglect the advice and supervision of a specialist. I repeat - an incorrectly laid chimney will inevitably lead to tragedy.

By the way, for a metal stove you don’t need a brick pipe - an ordinary iron one is enough.

Building regulations

The installation of chimneys for private houses and baths is regulated by the following building codes:

1. SP 7.13130.2013 “Fire safety requirements”;
2. SNiP 41-01-2003 - “Air conditioning, ventilation, heating”;
3. VDPO - “Rules for production work, repair of smoke ducts and furnaces.”

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The fire safety requirements for chimneys come down to the following main points.

• The wall thickness of the outlet pipe must be at least 120mm;
• Between the inner layer of the roofing pie and the chimney, a fire-prevention retreat must be provided - at least 130 mm;
• When using combustible insulation in the attic floor structure, it is necessary to organize protection in the form of sand backfill;
• The fluff must end at least 70 mm from the upper and lower boundaries of the overlap;
• The distance from the inner surface of the hot chimney to the combustible ceiling structures (fireproof cutting) must be 500 mm or more;
• The walls of the furnace retreat from the combustible structural elements by at least 250 mm;
• The distance between the upper edge of the furnace and the roof slab is 350 mm for intermittently fired furnaces and 1 m for continuous furnaces. This condition applies to a stove made of three rows of bricks. If there are 2 rows, the distances need to be increased by one and a half times;
• You cannot connect two heat sources to one chimney system.

The traction force is ensured by the correctly selected pipe cross-section and its height. The cross-section of smoke ducts made of brick is calculated based on the power of the heating device.

The height of the chimney pipe is calculated using special programs and formulas, but there is one rule - the elevation of the chimney above the ridge should be less than 500 mm (if the distance from the chimney to the ridge is less than 3 m).

In a vertical brick chimney, draft is generated by convection.

A prerequisite for the occurrence of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust combustion products: the greater it is, the stronger the thrust.

Therefore, for the normal functioning of the chimney, it is important to take care of its insulation. I’ll tell you how to arrange the insulation a little later.

Read also

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Furnace laying

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Fireplace masonry

Laying fireplaces Fireplaces are the simplest stoves with an open firebox in the form of a niche. They heat the room exclusively with radiant thermal energy. Heat transfer is 10–20%, the rest of the heat goes into the pipe. Therefore, fireplaces in cold areas of the country cannot serve as

MASONRY

STONE MASONRY It is made from natural cobblestones, rubble slabs or cut stone, which is given a more regular shape. During the laying process, it is necessary to ensure that there is as little space as possible between the stones and that the seams are thin (10 - 15 mm). From fat people

BRICKWORK

BRICK MASONRY Mainly used for laying foundations and walls. It can be 1/2, 1, 1 1/2, 2, 2 1/2, 3 or more bricks thick or 120, 250, 380, 510, 640, 770 mm, respectively. The thickness of the masonry depends on the purpose of the structure and local climatic conditions. Performed on various

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MASONRY OF OVENS

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MASONRY OF VOXES AND ARCHES

MASONRY OF VOXES AND ARCHES It is not recommended to cover stove fireboxes and openings above ovens with steel or cast iron strips, as they expand when heated and destroy the masonry. However, there are furnace designs in which it is not possible without metal strips.

PIPE LAYING

PIPE LAYING The pipe at the ceiling must have a groove (fluff) - a widened part, which is laid out gradually (Fig. 196). The first row is laid out “in a six” with external dimensions of 510X510 mm. When laying the second row, the brick is split into two parts along the length and laid

What are products equipped with rough steel made from?

This oven has interesting parameters and features. This includes, first of all, the fact that the most popular material for creating a structure is ceramic brick. with excellent parameters. These primarily include excellent heat dissipation, so such equipment will provide fast and uniform heating in the house.

Additionally, this material is considered very attractive, so the products made from it fit perfectly into any interior. A stove made with your own hands from ceramic bricks is considered especially relevant. in a rustic style. This stove is well suited to buildings made of wood.

If desired, such equipment can be additionally decorated with ceramic tiles. which has the same heat transfer rates as bricks made from this material. However, due to its more attractive and interesting appearance, the resulting design will fit perfectly into any interior. In this case, you can build equipment that will have the desired color and texture.

Recommendations for design and operation

Pipes should be inspected twice a year and, if defects are found, corrected. Often, during the construction of furnaces, pipes are installed not of brick, but of ceramic or asbestos-cement. They are light, durable and have no seams. They can be installed on masonry and on a simple concrete slab, but it is best to use a specially made slab as it has a sleeve or recess for the pipe.

The slab for the pipe can be concrete, but it is better to use reinforced concrete, the thickness of which is at least 50 mm. It can be a simple form or with sides, with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling. This creates a box filled with brickwork, sand, dry earth or slag.

The otter for such a pipe is made in a round or square shape, assembled from two halves or can be monolithic. To prevent the otter from falling down, you need to cover the pipe under it with a layer of cement mortar. The top of the pipe must be covered with a cap. The pipes must be firmly secured in the attic. The disadvantage of such pipes is that they have thin walls; they heat up quickly, but they also cool down quickly, causing condensation to form.

During the construction of the stove, you need to pay attention to how insulated the attic space and the pipes located there are. This is a prerequisite for successfully combating condensation. There are several options for pipe insulation. The simplest and least labor-intensive method is to wrap the pipe with mats made of fiberglass or slag wool. If there are no such materials, you can insulate it as follows: apply a layer of plaster, line cinder concrete slabs, pour sand, slag, dry earth and other heat-insulating materials around the pipe.

Special requirements

We repeat: the advantages are simple - compactness and the ability to build in an existing house without major construction work. But it is not so easy to place a more powerful firebox in a furnace structure of generally the same dimensions; from excessive heat load it will quickly become unusable. If special requirements are not met:

• Furnace foundation.
• Masonry mortars.
• Methods of laying the structure of the furnace.
• The choice and methods of installing stove fittings.

Foundation

The design of the foundation for the rough is shown in Fig. The crushed stone cushion without sand bedding is leveled to the horizon before pouring. Pouring mortar M150 – cement M300 and sand 1:2. The gap between the rubble foundation and the flooring is 30-40 mm. Don't forget to support the cut joists! Leaving their ends hanging is a common but serious mistake. The dimensions of the foundation in plan should protrude onto the contour of the furnace by at least 100-150 mm.

Construction of the furnace foundation - rough

Solutions

To fold the rough, 3 types of solutions are used, see fig. below. The bed on the foundation and the chimney are laid out on lime mortar as it combines sufficient heat and moisture resistance, but the rubble must be laid only on a completely moisture-resistant cement-sand mortar. It is highly advisable to use mountain or ravine sand with rough grains for clay mortar. Ordinary clay - purchased from the oven, guaranteed fat content and, most importantly, purity. Self-excavated clay, brought to the required fat content with sand, is of little use for coarse masonry.

Compositions of masonry mortars for coarse stoves

Masonry

For rough masonry, stove bricks and, if the order (see below) is provided for, fireclay bricks are used; red worker is of the highest quality - light red in color (fully annealed), without burn marks, distortion and swelling. Dry molded brick is absolutely unsuitable. The masonry of the structure is roughly carried out following the trail. rules:

• If you are an inexperienced stove maker, each row of masonry is first laid out dry; detected defects in cutting/chipping bricks are eliminated.
• Before laying on the mortar, each brick is soaked until the release of air bubbles stops. You can’t dump all the bricks into a barrel indiscriminately!
• A 5 mm layer of mortar is applied to the bed and the base of the brick being laid.
• The brick being laid is laid with a smooth movement, slightly tilted, and moved towards the previous one so that there are no air bubbles left in the seam.
• The brick is pressed until the seam comes together to 3 mm; You can't knock!
• Between fireclay and ordinary masonry, the initial seam is 8-10 mm; after pressing – 6 mm.
• The seam between bricks and metal embedded parts (see below) is 10 mm.
• Excess mortar squeezed out of the seam is removed with a trowel (trowel).
• The recesses in the seams found after removing excess mortar are filled with mortar by pressing without transverse movements, but not by rubbing!

Those who prefer to learn visually can watch a video tutorial on laying heating and cooking stoves below:

Video: laying a heating and cooking stove

Accessories

Incorrect oven door installation

Fittings and grates for roughing require cast iron; doors and latches - with an installation skirt and holes in it for diagonal wire whiskers. Welded steel or cast iron fittings with eyes for straight lugs (laid along the corresponding furnace wall) are unsuitable in this case. However, install the doors/latches as in Fig. on the right, in the rough it is impossible; This is not according to stove rules at all. For a Dutch country house with 2.5 bricks in plan, which is heated once or twice a season, it may be fine, but not for a rough one.

It is necessary, firstly, to crimp the mustache (galvanized wire 2-3 mm) with a twist so that it does not move. Press not too tightly at first, place it at the desired angle (at least 12 mm should remain from the far end of the mustache to the inside of the masonry). Then tighten carefully and shake the door/latch slightly. Didn't leave? Good. Then, secondly, you need to tightly wrap the skirt with asbestos cord (or basalt fiber), and only now put it in place. You can also watch the following videos about installing accessories into the oven.

Preparatory activities

At the pre-construction stage, a site for building a furnace is selected, a reliable foundation is installed and a working solution is prepared.

Selecting a location

The installation location of a Russian stove primarily depends on the characteristics of the room. In a wooden house, an air gap of at least 40 cm wide must be maintained between the heating device and the walls of the building. In addition, areas with high heating temperatures must be additionally protected with non-combustible materials, for example, basalt cardboard slabs

It is also important that at the same time access to the side surfaces of the heating unit is maintained, which is necessary for their periodic inspection. If you plan to install the stove in a wall between two rooms, then protect the opening with brickwork, separating it from the wood with a gasket made of non-combustible material

Options for possible location of the stove in the house

Construction of the foundation

Since the Russian stove is a large, massive structure, its base must ensure the stability and reliability of the entire structure. To arrange the foundation, you need to dig a pit with a depth of 0.5 to 0.7 m. Naturally, in loose and unstable soils this parameter will need to be increased.

A cushion of drainage materials is constructed at the bottom of the pit. To do this, the hole is filled with a 150–200 mm layer of sand, which is carefully compacted and filled with water for better compaction. The sand is covered with crushed stone, small rubble or broken bricks on top, raising the bottom of the pit by another 100–150 mm. The surface is additionally treated with a tamper, after which it is leveled with a thin layer of sand, which is also subjected to spilling.

Foundation design for a Russian stove

A cushion of sand and crushed stone is covered with moisture-proof material, on top of which formwork made from edged boards is installed. To avoid cement leakage through the cracks of the box, its walls are covered with polyethylene.

Concrete for the foundation should have the following composition: 1 part M-400 cement, 3 parts sand and 5 parts crushed stone or other filler. The solution is brought to the state of thick sour cream, after which it is poured to half the height of the formwork. After this, the concrete is bayoneted and a reinforcing mesh is laid on its surface. Next, the frame is filled to the edge with concrete and the surface is leveled using a long rule.

The concrete base is left to stand for several days until the concrete sets thoroughly, after which it is covered with roofing felt.

How to prepare the solution

In order for the work to be enjoyable, the masonry mortar must be soft and elastic. This will make it possible to completely fill the seams and not use excessive force when laying bricks. In addition, the mixture should not crack when drying, which is actually not so easy to achieve. The fact is that there is only one way to avoid surface cracking - by equalizing the parameters of thermal expansion of the masonry mortar and brick. Of course, you can purchase a special mixture for laying stoves at a hardware store, but a real Russian stove should be made from environmentally friendly materials, right? And an inexpensive traditional composition of clay and sand is perfect for this role.

The quality of the clay mortar has a decisive influence on the strength of masonry joints

A certain difficulty arises in selecting the correct proportions, which is associated with the different fat content of the clay. Want to know the secret to non-cracking mortar? It is quite simple - you need to take the most fatty clay possible, adding up to 3 parts of sand to it.

To prepare the solution, the clay is cleaned of foreign components, lumps are kneaded and soaked in cold water for 24 hours. After this, mix it thoroughly with sand, bringing it to a semi-liquid consistency.

Do not prepare too much solution. The fact is that when settling, it will be divided into components: the sand will settle to the bottom. Repeated mixing of the clay composition cannot be avoided, and this is all an unnecessary waste of time and effort.