How to cover a wood-burning stove with brickwork

A potbelly stove is often used to heat a steam room. Cast iron or metal stoves are easy to maintain, easier to make than brick stoves, and quickly heat the room. Despite their advantages, such stoves also have a drawback - they cool down quickly. Of course, while the fuel is burning, the stove heats up the steam room, but as soon as the wood runs out, it stops heating the room, and it quickly becomes cool. What to do in this case? A simple option is to line the potbelly stove with bricks.

Types of protective screens for furnaces

For air movement and better heating of the room, the protection is located a few centimeters from the walls.
Gaps are made in the lower part of the structure: gaps are left in the brickwork for this, metal sheets are installed on the legs. Reference. When using brickwork, the room warms up more slowly, but the comfortable temperature remains longer.

Such screens are placed on the sides facing the room. And to protect walls, especially wooden ones, they are sheathed.

Important! Side and front screens are used only for metal stoves. Brick structures also need protection for nearby walls.

The size of the screens depends on the dimensions and power of the oven. The chosen material also matters. At the same time, make the necessary gap between the screen and the stove, otherwise it will overheat.

Metal

Metal protection is installed at a distance of no less than 1-5 cm from the stove itself. The distance to the wooden wall should be no less than 38 cm.

If the screen is attached directly to the wall, it is necessary to insulate it from the emanating heat. Then the following scheme is applied:

1. A layer of thermal insulation is laid at a distance of about 3 cm from the wall. To create a gap, the material is not attached directly to the wall, but through slats or metal pipes.
2. A metal protection is installed on top of it.
3. The screen is made in such a size that it is higher and wider than the stove by a meter.

Advice. The air gap creates the possibility of additional cooling.

There should also be a small distance between the floor and the screen. Protection is placed on the wall 3-5 cm from the floor. When floor mounted, the screen is mounted on special legs. Another option is to make holes in the bottom of the sheet.

Brick around an iron stove

As a rule, masonry is carried out in half a brick. This provides sufficient protection, but at the same time does not interfere with warming up. Sometimes other options are used. When laying a quarter of a brick, the protective properties are reduced, and the heat becomes less mild, but the room warms up faster. But the distance to the walls should be greater than the minimum.

If the masonry is thicker, like a whole brick, the room will take longer to warm up. But this shield becomes a heat accumulator, that is, it gives off heat after the wood burns out.

Dimensions are calculated as follows:

1. The height of the screen should be 20 cm greater than the stove. The masonry along the wall is sometimes extended all the way to the ceiling.
2. The distance from the stove to the edge of the shield should be 5-15 cm.

For cast iron stove

Cast iron occupies an intermediate place in terms of heat-conducting properties. It heats up worse than steel, but better than brick, and cools down, respectively, longer than the first and faster than the second. Therefore, the protective screen is installed according to special rules. For it, the brick is placed on the side, that is, the wall extends into a quarter of the brick. In this case, less material will be required, otherwise the technology remains the same.

Features of potbelly stoves

The design of the potbelly stove is extremely simple. It is a rectangular or cylindrical combustion chamber to which the chimney is connected. At the bottom there is an ash pan with a grate. There are two doors in the front part - firewood is loaded through one, ash is unloaded through the second. The second door also serves as a blower. Sometimes, instead of two doors, only one is installed - if the combustion chamber is small.

To increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove, partitions are attached inside. They prevent combustion products from directly escaping into the chimney. First they will have to go through a curved channel formed by two sheets of iron. Here they will give up the accumulated heat to the maximum, after which they will leave the confines of the stove. Brick lining gives equally good results, increasing efficiency and retaining heat.

Stages of laying a potbelly stove made of brick

Due to the fact that a potbelly stove made of brick is significantly heavier than a metal stove, it must be laid out on a special foundation.

Therefore, a do-it-yourself brick stove is a pipe dream for a person living in an apartment building, unless he is a resident of the first floor. A private house, garage and cottage do not impose any restrictions on the construction of a potbelly stove.

Usually the stove is placed near one of the walls. This saves space in the room, but increases the likelihood of a wall fire. Therefore, the part of the wall located in the immediate vicinity of the furnace installation site is insulated with a metal sheet, sheet asbestos or a layer of plaster.

The foundation is laid at the selected location. It is enough to dig a hole for it to a depth of 500mm. The bottom is compacted, covered with a layer of sand (3-5 buckets) and compacted again. Then comes a layer of crushed stone (100-150mm), which is also compacted, then leveled and filled with cement mortar (cement/sand - 1:3). Leave the foundation for a day for the solution to harden.

Despite the fact that a potbelly stove made of brick is not a stove of increased complexity, its laying must be carried out similarly to the laying of any stove of a different design, that is, according to a pre-calculated order.

Having the order in hand, we prepare the necessary materials and stove equipment, as well as the tools that will be needed when laying the stove.

We lay two layers of waterproofing on top of the poured foundation. We do the first row of masonry (basement) directly on the waterproofing layer.

This row is subject to increased horizontal requirements on its upper surface, since it sets the vertical of the entire furnace structure. This row is placed “on the edge”. All further rows are laid in ½ brick.

It is advisable to use a building level to check the vertical and horizontal alignment of the masonry every five rows. To prevent the walls of the stove from “moving” to the side, it is recommended to lower a series of air restrictors (a cord with a nut at the end) from the ceiling at the corners of the stove.

It is most convenient to arrange the firebox at the level of 4-5 rows, leaving for this a space two bricks wide and three rows high. Under it, it is advisable to provide a hole the size of one brick for the blower.

An option for ordering such a stove is given below.

Furnace arrangement option

When laying it, red row bricks, fireclay bricks, fireclay clay, ordinary clay, sand, and cement are used.

It is easier to make a pipe from metal (the internal flow area must be at least 12 cm), and it can be discharged through the roof (traditional option) or through the back wall of the furnace.

Please note that the thickness of the pipe walls, especially in its first meters, should be more than 3 mm. Otherwise, it will quickly burn out

Features of chimney masonry and possible errors, masonry diagram and main elements.

Brick stove foundation

There is one more nuance that should be taken into account at the stage of choosing a place to install the stove in the house.

Types of fireplaces for home heating

Technologies used to improve heating systems have led to the creation of alternative types of fireplaces

How to build a fireplace in your home with your own hands

Assembling a fireplace with your own hands is a difficult task, since experience and skillful hands are important in this matter.

Here you will learn:

A potbelly stove is one of the simplest stoves. By burning solid fuel in its interior, it provides heat to residential and non-residential premises. These ovens are divided into factory-made and home-made. Thanks to their simple design, they are easy to assemble with your own hands. In the future, it is recommended to cover the potbelly stove with bricks. This step will increase its effectiveness and protect users from burns. Get information about the lining in our review.

Cladding masonry

Before you cover the heating boiler with brick, you must remember that the stove with a brick “jacket” must be located at a distance of at least 20 centimeters from the wall.

If it is made of wood or other flammable materials, the gap should be increased to 50 centimeters

It is important to understand that installing a stove in a wooden house is a very responsible job. Fire safety of walls made of wood materials can be ensured by finishing with metal or asbestos-cement sheets.

The furnace lining is carried out taking into account certain rules:

1. The masonry must be done in half a brick and not thicker, otherwise it will not warm up. When the first row is made, the indents are measured from the outside of the unit body to the inside of the cladding. In this case, the minimum permissible distance is 5 centimeters, and the recommended distance is 10 centimeters.
2. The laying is done in a checkerboard pattern. The bricks are pre-soaked, the moisture is shaken off, and only then a clay solution is applied over the entire surface. If you do not wet the brick, it will absorb all the liquid from the mortar and the mixture will lose its binding qualities. The brick is applied to the adjacent product with the smeared part and tapped with a wooden hammer.
3. In order to increase the rigidity of the fence, a reinforcing mesh is used; it is laid on top of each row of masonry. Where the corners pass, the mesh must be tightened with soft steel wire. It is necessary that the mesh does not protrude beyond the edges of the masonry, but fits tightly to it.
4. The seams should be immediately rubbed with clay mortar.
5. To ensure unhindered movement of air around the stove body, several holes are left in the masonry. The easiest way to make them is to fasten the brick across. On each side of the cladding you need to equip 4 holes - 2 at the top and bottom.
6. The lower openings are intended for the entry of cold air, and the upper ones for the exit of heated air masses. This will prevent overheating of the boiler and ensure free flow of heat into the room.
7. Laying is carried out to the top of the metal unit. For the last row, you can take bricks decorated with a textured decorative surface.
8. After finishing the masonry, the walls are allowed to dry. The solution finally hardens after a few days.
9. Then the surface must be cleaned of excess clay mixture. The bricks should only have an even color. This job is best done with a drill with a brush attachment or the old method using sandpaper. Before starting cleaning, put on a respirator.
10. If, after completing the work, dark spots are visible on the surface of the cladding, you should go over them with a stiff brush dipped in a soap solution. Then it is washed off and the masonry is allowed to dry.

This should be done carefully, without overloading the unit, so that the solution acquires maximum strength with a non-critical and gradual increase in temperature.

If an iron stove in a bathhouse has been lined, then after the first visit to the steam room, the changes that have occurred will be noticeable, since the heat will become softer and more even, and it will last longer in the room.

By the way, a brick “shirt” erected around a metal unit, when heated, releases excess moisture to the surrounding space, and when cooled, it absorbs excess vapor present in the steam room. Thanks to this, the indoor microclimate will be comfortable and beneficial for the human body.

How to properly fold a potbelly stove?

Even a beginner can correctly assemble a brick stove-stove on his own. To do this, you need to know and follow the simple rules that pechnoy.guru will provide below.

Scheme and drawing

Below we will look at how to build a potbelly stove out of brick with your own hands. The drawing and dimensions can be seen in photo No. 1:

Photo No. 1 - do-it-yourself drawing of a potbelly stove made of brick

The sequential layout of bricks from a potbelly stove is shown in photo No. 2:

Photo No. 2 - sequential layout of bricks (diagram)

We have decided on the materials and design of the furnace, and the solution is ready. This design does not require a foundation. For comfortable and safe operation, heating must be placed in compliance with all fire safety standards. Having chosen a place, lay two layers of waterproofing. On top we make a preparation of sand, 10 mm thick. Let's start laying:

• We lay a brick on top, without mortar (see photo No. 2, first row). We strictly control horizontality using a level.
• We install the door for the blower. We secure it with wire and wrap it with asbestos cord.
• We continue laying (see photo No. 2, row No. 1).
• Next comes fireclay brick (see photo No. 2). Grate bars will be installed above it.
• We place grate bars directly above the ash pit.
• We place the next row on a spoon. We put the wall at the back without mortar (knockout bricks).
• Installing the firebox door. We secure it with wire and bricks.
• On top we place a row on the bed along the contour of the fourth.
• The next one is again on a spoon. We put 2 bricks at the back.
• The row at the top should overlap the combustion door and end 130 mm above it.
• We continue laying, moving the bricks back a little. Before this, we lay an asbestos cord on which we will install the hob.
• Let's start forming the chimney from the next row. The design provides for the installation of a mounted pipe made of tin or corrugated aluminum. The pipe should not be heavy. Otherwise, the center of gravity may shift.
• On the eleventh row we install a valve to regulate the air flow. Don’t forget to seal it with asbestos cord and cover it with clay.
• Next, we place a chimney pipe in the quadrangle, which we connect to the metal one. The pipe must stand strictly vertically and not lean to the side. For greater stability, it should be covered with three rows of bricks.
• We remove the knockout bricks that we placed on the 4th row and clean the chimney of debris.
• Now the stove should be whitened. Any lime will do. Experts recommend adding blue and a little milk. This way the whitewash will not darken and fly off.
• We install a metal sheet in front of the firebox.
• We install the baseboard.

An example of a finished brick stove

Drying

The cause of cracks is excess moisture in the bricks, so the oven must be thoroughly dried. There are two stages of drying: natural and forced.

1. Natural drying lasts at least five days. All doors must be fully open. To increase the intensity of the process, place a fan in front of the firebox or stick it into it and turn on a regular electric incandescent lamp (not an energy-saving one). It will not be possible to completely dry the oven using this method, so we move on to the next step.
2. Forced drying is carried out by burning dry wood. This type of fire is carried out once every 24 hours. You should only heat with small dry logs. Open the blower door slightly and open the plug halfway.

When the wood burns out, loosely cover the ash pit. Close the top plug, leaving 1-2 cm. When the coals burn out, open all channels. Carry out this fire for a week. On the first day, about 2 kg of wood is burned. Then add 1 kg every day.

Making a firebox door

This element is the most complex in the entire structure. The following table shows the standardized dimensions of oven doors:

We make the door for the firebox according to the drawings shown in photo No. 3:

Photo No. 3 - drawing of the door for the firebox and cleaning chamber

Metal cladding

A brick potbelly stove can be additionally sheathed with metal. We will get a metal potbelly stove with all the advantages, but without the disadvantages (except for weight). This design will protect the stove from cracking and chipping. This will significantly increase service life. This will require sheet metal 4-6 mm thick. The process is not particularly difficult. The metal sheet is marked, the necessary parts are cut out with a grinder or a cutter. Next, the cladding is carried out and connected using welding and a metal corner.

This design is not only durable, but safer. However, it requires additional costs and labor.

Step-by-step instructions for brickwork

1. On the first row, mortar is placed at the end parts of all bricks. No bonding is required with sand backfill. The first row is laid on dry ground and leveled. In order to avoid sand slipping, you can use a plinth.
2. The blower door is mounted in the second row. It is placed on a layer of solution and secured with wire. As a result, a blower chamber appears.
3. The ash grate closes on the third row.
4. The combustion chamber and channels for removing combustion products begin on the fourth row. The bricks are laid end to end. We make supports for the bricks of subsequent rows in channels, since the hole for removing smoke must be preserved. The back wall is laid dry. After completing the fourth row, the combustion chamber door is installed.
5. The brick lies flat on the fifth row, with the exception of those forming channels for smoke.
6. On the next row, the brick is placed with the end part. In this way, the bricks no longer fall. The basis of the rear wall is made up of two rows of bricks, which are placed at the end.
7. The seventh and eighth rows cover the firebox door with 2 bricks. For the back wall we use hewn brick, which acts as a fire guide to the burner.
8. To begin the ninth row, it is necessary to lay an asbestos sheet at the location of the cooking plate.
9. We use the tenth row to install the hob and begin work on the chimney.
10. A chimney valve is installed in the eleventh row. To do this you will need a solution of clay and asbestos.

We make a potbelly stove using waste oil with our own hands.
At the end of the last row, the laying of the chimney begins (2-4 rows) and a metal pipe is attached. It is possible for the chimney to exit to the street. To insulate outdoor pipes we use mineral wool and burnt wire. It will take time for the oven to dry completely.

You cannot rush to finish the stove, as cracks may appear in the first year of operation. It is worth watching a number of videos on the Internet. But on the second one you can finish the potbelly stove with clay mortar. Now the structure is ready for whitewashing or tiling.

HomeDo-it-yourself houseDo-it-yourself brick stove - instructions for creating

The historical events of 1917 caused a sharp increase in demand for stoves that were small in size and mobile. Therefore, this year is the year of birth of the potbelly stove. At that time, there was a critical shortage of fuel, people were forced to lead a nomadic lifestyle, there was a housing problem - all this served as an impetus for the invention and mass distribution of compact metal stoves, the transportation of which is not difficult.

There are several versions of why the simplest in design heating device got its name:

• the bourgeois revolution and its consequences led to an increase in the popularity of these stoves;
• The high heat transfer of this heating device makes it possible to obtain a sufficient amount of heat in the shortest possible time, and at the same time requires constant maintenance of the combustion process. To do this, it is necessary to have some reserves of fuel, and at that time a person with such wealth could only be called a bourgeois.

Potbelly stove in the museum

Plating sequence

Diagram of an iron stove lined with bricks.

Before covering the stove with bricks. you need to make sure that the floor can withstand such a load. Without a foundation, stoves weighing up to 800 kg can be installed on a wooden floor. Of course, this is provided that the beams and joists are in good condition. A sheet of steel is placed on the floor, a layer of brick is placed on it, and then a stove is installed. If the floor is wooden, then a sheet of asbestos must also be placed under the metal. The steel sheet lining should protrude 30-40 cm in front of the front wall of the stove to prevent hot coals from falling onto the unprotected floor. Metal sheets with an asbestos cement backing also need to be attached to the walls of the room located next to the stove. It is necessary to take into account that a gap must be left between the stove lining and the wall of the room.

There must be a gap of 30-50 mm between the metal wall of the stove and the masonry. This must be done because metal and brick have different temperature coefficients of linear expansion. When heated, metal expands much more than brick, so if you place a potbelly stove closely, without a gap, the stove may collapse. Free space between the metal wall and the brick is also necessary for air convection.

As a rule, they line the stove with 1/2 brick. It makes no sense to make the wall thicker, since it will take too much time and fuel to warm up thick brickwork. Before you start covering the potbelly stove, you need to make markings, taking into account the gap. Mark the outer contour of the furnace. The first row is made continuous. You should try to make the thickness of the mortar between the bricks no more than 0.5 cm. In the second row, 1-2 holes are made on each side of the stove, depending on the size of the stove. The length of the holes is 1/2 of a brick. All subsequent rows are continuous, like the first row.

The front wall of the stove on the firebox side must be lined with ease of use in mind - the door must open and close freely. Here you can show your imagination and perform figured masonry. At the top of the opening above the door you need to lay a metal corner on which the top rows of bricks are laid. The upper part of the stove can be covered at your discretion, since technically it does not play a significant role, performing mainly a decorative function. The top of the oven can be made in the form of a vault or made flat.

After the lining is completed, the mortar in the joints should dry. This will take 1-2 days. After this, the surface of the masonry must be cleaned from excess mortar using a drill with a brush attachment. Then the masonry is washed with a soapy solution and a brush with stiff bristles.

Nowadays there is a large selection of metal stoves of various designs and price categories on sale. Metal stoves are used for heating private houses, temporary structures, at construction sites for heating workers, security guards and other purposes. The use of metal stoves in home baths and saunas is also increasingly gaining popularity, although in this case a brick stove is considered more traditional, but it cannot always be used for a number of reasons. The main advantages of metal stoves are their compactness (since not every room can install a brick oven), ease of installation, fast heating. The main disadvantage is that after stopping the fire, it cools down quite quickly. This drawback can be eliminated by lining a metal stove with bricks. This will greatly extend the heat transfer without increasing the size of the stove too much. If you made a metal stove yourself, then by lining such a stove with brick, you will give your stove a decorative look.

Having basic construction skills, you will be able to line an iron stove with bricks yourself; for this you will need the following materials and tools.

Which brick to choose?

In order to cover a potbelly stove, ordinary brick will not work . You need to choose between special stove and solid ceramic. Kiln brick will withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees, while solid ceramic bricks can withstand temperatures up to 800 degrees. Every stove maker will say that laying bricks on edge is strictly prohibited, although you can hear similar advice in order to save material. Heat-resistant bricks are placed in water before laying so that they do not draw moisture out of the mortar and provide maximum adhesion.

Use only heat-resistant bricks

To calculate the consumption of bricks, you need to measure the stove and take into account the 10-15 centimeters of gap between the metal wall and the brick. The potbelly stove is placed on one or two brick rows, and the top is laid as desired. The area of ​​the proposed masonry must be divided by the area of ​​the narrow side of the brick. This is a rough calculation without taking into account seams and air circulation holes in the masonry, but it gives an idea of ​​the maximum amount of material required.

For example: to cover a metal stove “Gnome” you need 83 bricks if you lay it according to the technology and 45 bricks if you lay the brick on its side. This amount will be needed provided there is a foundation in two rows and a lining on top.

There are craftsmen who fill the space between the brick and the stove with sand. But a potbelly stove with sand rarely lives up to expectations - the sand becomes a heat insulator without increasing the useful time of the firebox. The same can be said about gravel, which is used along with sand.

How to cover a potbelly stove with bricks with your own hands? Instructions

The first step is to prepare the solution.

Step 1. Preparing the solution

The mortar, like the bricks themselves, must be heat-resistant. A simple option is to buy dry mixtures for laying stoves. To prepare the solution, you just need to add water and stir in the required proportions. The advantages of this option are: time saving, no need to select the fat content of the clay and a guarantee that the masonry will be of high quality. This option is preferable for those who do not want to waste extra time and are not confident in their abilities.

A more labor-intensive option is to prepare the solution yourself. To determine the required proportions, you need to take into account the fat content of the clay; the higher it is, the more sand you need.

To prepare the solution, you need to mix the clay with water; if the clay is oily, then the ratio should be 1:1, if dry - 1:2. Leave the mixture for a day. Next, you need to strain the clay and add sand to it to get a creamy mass.

You need to use only clean water without mechanical and chemical impurities. An increased content of mineral salts will lead to the formation of stains and streaks that will be difficult to remove.

In order to give the solution strength, you need to add 1 kg of cement per 10 kg of clay and 150 g of salt.

Before starting work, we recommend checking the quality of the prepared solution. This is easy to do: you need to connect several bricks with it and leave for 5-10 minutes. Next, take the top brick, if the bottom one does not fall off, the mortar is of high quality, and you can move on to the next step. If the bottom brick has fallen, then it is necessary to adjust the ratio of the added components.

Another option for assessing the quality of the solution: roll a sausage 20x1.5 cm and fold it into a ring. If small cracks appear, then the solution is suitable for brickwork; if there are no cracks, then it is too greasy and you need to add sand; if the cracks are too large, then, on the contrary, there is more sand in the mixture than necessary.

Of course, if the solution is greasy, then it can be easily laid in a light layer and does not form cracks, but when it dries it shrinks greatly, so this option is completely unsuitable for furnace work. An overly thin solution is also not suitable; it does not shrink, but when it dries it crumbles.

Step 2. Preliminary preparation of the furnace for operation

Before moving on to masonry, you need to make sure that the floor in the bathhouse can withstand such a load. Bricks, especially solid bricks, weigh quite a lot, so after laying the stove will begin to place a high load on the base.

A durable, reinforced concrete floor can withstand a load of up to 800 kg per square meter, any other floor - no more than 150 kg. If the stove weighs more than 800 kg, then an additional foundation will be needed.

Before covering the potbelly stove with bricks, you need to install it on a special reinforced base. To make it, you need to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor, cover it with a steel sheet, and lay the bricks in two dense rows.

If you plan to make a lining for an already built bathhouse and an installed stove, then the stove needs to be disconnected and moved away. If the floor is already old and damaged, then the best option is to cut out the logs and fill the base under the stove with a cement foundation, of course, if the bathhouse is on the first floor. Next, also lay asbestos cardboard, a sheet of metal and one row of bricks.

Preliminary preparation

Before laying bricks, you need to make sure the floor is in good condition. Thus, a reinforced concrete floor can withstand no more than 800 kg of weight per m2; the load on any other floor is usually calculated as 150 kg per m2. Before you cover the potbelly stove with brick, it needs to be installed on a kind of foundation made of a sheet of metal, asbestos cardboard and brick in this order: cardboard is placed on the floor, a steel sheet on top, then the brick is laid in two rows, as close to each other as possible.

If the potbelly stove has already been installed, it must be disconnected from the chimney pipe and moved away from the site of future masonry. When the floor is old and the weight of the structure cannot withstand, the logs are cut out and a cement foundation is poured, provided that the stove is installed on the first floor of the house. The stove should not stand only on the finished floor. To reduce the load on the joists, it is allowed to lay only 1 row of bricks on a sheet of metal and asbestos cardboard. The steel sheet should protrude 30 cm in front of the firebox door.

An efficient brick stove for a workshop or garage

Potbelly stoves are considered one of the most famous types of stoves; you can not only buy them in a retail chain, but also make them with your own hands without much effort. Such heating structures have the ability to heat residential and non-residential premises, for example, garages or workshops using various types of solid fuel. Such a heating source occupies a small area, approximately 2X2.5 bricks. A special heat-resistant refractory brick is used for it, and the masonry is made using a solution of fireclay powder and refractory clay with the addition of sand.

In fact, this universal brick mini-boiler in its operating and design characteristics does not differ from large boilers and Russian stoves. Similarly, any stationary potbelly stove also has important functional structural elements:

1. A heat-resistant foundation that serves as the base of the furnace to evenly distribute the weight load over the area and for fire safety purposes.
2. Combustion device. In this unit design, the firebox and firebox are combined into one space.
3. The grate provides lower air supply to the combustion area. This increases the productivity of the furnace and makes it possible to regulate the intensity of the process.
4. Ash chamber for collecting ash and organizing cleaning of the heating device.
5. Chimney - creates operating parameters for the movement of flue gases in the combustion space and their release into the atmosphere.

Basic models of homemade potbelly stoves

According to its principles, a potbelly stove is practically no different from models of a special solid fuel device.
This is a certain type of very simple stove in the fireplace category. There are also special models that are equipped with hobs and special bath devices. Material used to make the stove Often, a potbelly stove is made of high-quality steel, but in some cases cast iron can be used. For different types of metal, elements made of natural stone are often used. If cast iron is used, then you should count on low heat capacity parameters; it is very difficult to find and it is not easy to cook. Many people prefer steel for this very reason; it is much easier to work with. Moreover, the thicker the material, the longer it will last. If you plan to make a device for rare use, for example, for emergency situations with the heating system, then make it from simple iron, whose thickness is 1 mm. In the process of making a stove, all factory fittings may well be used. This applies to elements such as grates, the necessary doors, burners and valves. Many craftsmen make them with their own hands using steel.

Shape and material for the body If you want to make a potbelly stove using drawings or photos, you must use the method of cutting a metal sheet.

• In addition, the following elements are used:
• Molding profiles;
• Square shaped pipe;
• Special corners;
• Fittings;
• Rod.

Various metal cabinets and boxes can be used as a base. Often these are cylindrical elements, for example, large-diameter pipes, cans, gas cylinders.

In the process of making a stove with your own hands, you will definitely need to use welding

If the metal is not very thick, the furnace can be made using bolts, screws and a drill. Regardless of the chosen model, it is important to use drawings as the basis for manufacturing, because Despite its relative simplicity, it is necessary to follow certain instructions for the implementation of the heating device

Materials and tools

When deciding how to properly line an iron stove with bricks, you first need to decide on the materials suitable for this. They must have special characteristics.

Brick

The main material for cladding must be of high quality: without voids, with high heat resistance and fire resistance.

You can choose which brick to line an iron stove in a bathhouse from two options:

Clay brick. It is used for lining the body, masonry of the firebox and chimney of a wood-burning stove. It can be ordinary, front, or with a decorative front surface.

Ordinary solid brick

Facing brick

Facing brick with decorative surface “oak bark”

Using shaped bricks you can create unique shapes

Fireproof fireclay brick. Withstands temperatures up to 1800 degrees. It is recommended to be used for masonry and lining of coal-fired stoves.

Fireclay brick

The approximate quantity is calculated depending on the method of laying (half or quarter brick) and the perimeter of the cladding. In this case, the dimensions of the furnace itself and the distance between it and the lining are taken into account. This also includes the amount required to construct the site, since it is possible to cover a metal stove with bricks only on a solid foundation.

With this type of masonry, the brick is placed on a spoon - a narrow long part

Solution

The ideal masonry mortar is made from clay and sand in certain proportions, which depend on the quality of the clay. Without experience, it is very difficult to do it. Therefore, it is best to buy a ready-made refractory mixture based on red clay.

Before covering the cast-iron firebox with brick, you just need to dilute it with water, as required by the instructions on the package.

Heat-resistant terracotta mixture

In addition to bricks and masonry mixture, masonry mesh and fire-resistant sheet materials may be needed to create a protective screen for wooden surfaces. And also roofing felt as a waterproofing material.

Tools

The following tools will be required to complete this job:

• Container for solution;
• Trowel for typing it;
• Hammer for adjusting bricks;
• Pickaxe for dividing them into parts;
• Jointing for seams;
• Ordering is a strip with divisions applied to it, the distance between which is equal to the height of one or several rows, taking into account the thickness of the seam;
• Construction level and plumb line for level control;
• Cord for controlling the evenness of horizontal rows.

Tools required for masonry A sponge or rag and a bucket of clean water will also help to remove the mortar from the front surface of the masonry.

Installation of a metal stove with a remote firebox in a log house

Let's consider the option of installing a fireproof anti-shrink wall made of LV mineralite. A special fastening method will allow installation in the log house before it shrinks, and the floating design of the fastening elements will prevent the rigid wall from deforming.

Minerit LV

Minerite

Step 1. Prepare the opening in the wall. We cut it out with a chainsaw according to the markings.

Hole in the wall

Step 2. Cover the inner surface of the opening with mineralite. We saw the mineralite sheet into three pieces. We cut out two vertical pieces based on the height of the opening minus 10 cm. We cut out the horizontal part with a length equal to the width of the opening minus 2 cm. The width of the mineralite section should be equal to the thickness of the timber or log from which the wall of the bathhouse was built.

Step 3. We nail foil to the inside perimeter, and then mineralite. First, we fix the vertical sections with nails, then the horizontal ones.

Step 4. It is necessary to make an opening in the mineralite sheets, which will protect the wall from the heat of the stove. The remote furnace firebox will pass through this opening. We take measurements of the remote firebox, then make markings with a pencil and cut the sheet so that there is 3 cm on each side between the remote channel and the sheet.

Installation of foil and mineralite. Finishing of the opening can be done both before and after installation of the main slabs of refractory material

You can do it differently - first we fix the sheet on the wall, and then we cut the opening for the remote firebox.

Mounting mineralite to the wall

The sheet is fixed, you can cut out the opening

Step 5. Drill oval holes in the sheet for self-tapping screws. When shrinkage occurs, the screws will move downward inside these holes, while the sheet will remain motionless. We fix the foil insulation on the wall (with a stapler), and then use self-tapping screws and a washer to fix the mineralite sheet (we mount the sheet on the steam room side).

Step 6. We attach the second layer of mineralite with an air gap of 3 cm. To do this, you need to purchase a mounting kit with ceramic or steel bushings.

Mounting kit

Once again, you need to drill oval holes, but be sure to make sure that the fasteners of the first and second sheets do not end up at the same point.

The photo shows a diagram of the installation of a protective screen made of mineralite. Double-layer sheathing. If the stove has an external firebox, make an opening according to the instructions

When joining two sheets at 90 degrees, we make cuts at the ends at 45 degrees for a more aesthetic appearance.

After installing the sheets, we install the stove on the base. We adjust the legs, making sure that the external channel is located exactly in the center of the opening cut in the mineralite. We take foil-coated basalt wool and place it tightly between the walls of the outlet channel and the mineralite. In this case, the foil should “look” towards the steel walls of the channel.

Adviсe

Craftsmen use different methods of installing stoves and protecting walls. So, for example, in a log bath it will be more convenient to install mineralite on a wooden sheathing. Antisepticize the 50x50 mm bars, drill holes for self-tapping screws and fix the sheathing posts exactly vertically. The mineralite will already be fixed to this sheathing with self-tapping screws.

Lathing

If you plan to cover the wall from the inside (from the steam room side) with mineralite for further finishing, for example, with a coil, and finish the portal with brick from the outside, then it is worth carrying out the work in the following sequence:

• From the side of the steam room, fix a sheet of mineralite;
• cut a hole for the outlet channel;
• secure the horizontal guides from the plasterboard profile. Fasten the strips with self-tapping screws at the top of the opening, along the bottom and exactly above the opening for the fuel channel;
• install the vertical posts of the sheathing from the profile, fix them with self-tapping screws through the shelves;
• take basalt wool and lay it between the sheathing posts;
• sew up the opening with mineralite (from the dressing room side);
• install the stove in its place;
• Now, on the side of the dressing room, fill the opening with brick (don’t forget to put insulation in the cracks), and on the side of the steam room, apply decorative finishing with stone.

Lathing and insulation

View from the steam room and dressing room

Fixed furnace portal

Walls and chimney after finishing with a coil

The process of finishing the oven itself

The work on installing the furnace does not end there. Be sure to install a water tank and a heat exchanger, if they are provided for in the design, install the chimney in accordance with fire safety rules, prepare and lay the stones in the mesh.

Preparation of the solution

Let's start by preparing the solution. For masonry work we use a special ready-made mixture. Sold in construction stores. It is a yellow-gray powder in 25 kg bags. All that remains is to dilute it with water in the correct ratio and mix. Detailed instructions are always indicated on the packaging; you need to follow them step by step. This solution is the best choice. It has only one drawback - its high price.

You can prepare the mortar for masonry yourself. For this we need clay and sand. First, let's determine the quality of the available clay and the content of impurities in it. We follow the following instructions:

• Roll the clay into a rope. Thickness - 10-15 mm, length - 150-200 cm.
• Take a rolling pin with a diameter of 50 mm and wrap a rope around it.
• The tourniquet should stretch smoothly and break, stretching by about 15-20%.

Expert opinion Pavel Kruglov Stove maker with 25 years of experience

If the rope stretches more, the clay is “fat”; if it breaks earlier, the clay is “skinny.” In the first option, the solution will shrink greatly under the influence of temperature, in the second it will crumble.

The next step is to prepare the sand. First, sift it through a fine sieve. The cell should not exceed 1.5x1.5 mm. Next we follow the instructions:

• using a handle and burlap, we arrange some kind of net;
• pour sand into it and begin to rinse it under running water;
• Rinse until the draining water runs clear.

Thus, we have rid the sand of impurities.

We do the same with clay. Now it should be soaked. To do this, pour the clay into a previously prepared container. Pour water so that the entire surface of the clay is covered. After 24 hours, mix thoroughly. We repeat the process until the clay has a consistency similar to toothpaste.

There is no universal proportion for a solution. Everything is installed by trial and error, depending on the characteristics of the materials used. The main thing is that the solution is convenient to work with.

To increase strength, experts recommend adding a little cement or salt.

Expert opinion Pavel Kruglov Stove maker with 25 years of experience

Here is a basic recipe for masonry mortar:

Take 2 parts of clay. Add one piece of sand to it. Using a construction mixer, mix until smooth and thick. We will need approximately 40 liters of solution.

Variations of designs

There are many options depending on the scale of the planned furnace. Simple structures for lining are already equipped with special shelves on which bricks are laid.

Craftsmen also sew a potbelly stove into a brick in a more fundamental way. This can be done more or less efficiently depending on the qualifications of the master.

Below is a diagram of a potbelly stove stove, a brick in which serves to expand its functionality.

Finishing a potbelly stove with brick: tips and tricks – Working with Brick

The potbelly stove is familiar to all summer residents. It is not profitable to buy expensive heating devices for change houses and country houses, but an old potbelly stove will cope with the task and will not ruin the owner. This stove does not require fuel, has a cooking surface and is small in size. In some cases, you can line the potbelly stove with bricks.

Potbelly stoves come in cast iron and metal. The first ones are, of course, more economical. The problem with all metal stoves is rapid heat transfer. As soon as all the fuel has burned out, the potbelly stove instantly cools down, and with it the heated room.

Fast heat transfer helps when you need to quickly warm up a room, but requires constant loading of fuel. The potbelly stove got its name for such “gluttony” - no matter how much fuel you put in, it’s not enough. To increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove, during the October Revolution the chimney pipe was lengthened.

Burning gases passing through a long pipe heated it, so the length of the chimney could be equal to the perimeter of the room.

An easier way to retain some of the heat is to line the stove with bricks. The heat emanating from the stove heats the brick, and as it cools, it releases the accumulated heat. The brickwork will allow the stove to remain warm for a couple of hours after it has cooled down.

Covering a potbelly stove with bricks in this way not only increases efficiency, but also externally transforms a cheap stove. For greater beauty, you can use special heat-resistant tiles.

So a potbelly stove can become visually very attractive and resemble a Dutch or Swedish stove.

Cover example

How to cover a potbelly stove with bricks at the dacha

To heat a room in a country house or country house, a potbelly stove or fireplace is often used. A cast iron or metal stove is easy to manufacture, easy to maintain and affordable.

The furnace material - metal or cast iron - has both negative and positive properties.

So, while promoting rapid heating of the room, a metal stove, on the other hand, cools down quickly with the same “success”.

You can find a large number of videos on the Internet with instructions for lining a stove or fireplace, but we propose to consider this problem in detail in the article.

To begin with, let us list the main qualities that distinguish a potbelly stove with a lining from the original stove:

• The structure, made from brick with your own hands, allows you to retain heat inside for a long time, distributing it evenly throughout the room.
• After turning off, the stove will maintain a high temperature in the room for a long time, eliminating the need to reheat the cold house after the next turn on.
• The design of a brick-lined potbelly stove or fireplace is safe to use. as it relieves the owner from the possibility of getting burned when in contact with a hot metal body.

Selection of material and tools

You can cover a potbelly stove with a brick casing with your own hands and on your own. The main problem is the correct selection of the necessary tools and bricks of a certain quality.

For lining a potbelly stove or fireplace, classic bricks, clay stove bricks, are used. characterized by heat resistance qualities.

When exposed to high temperatures, such a brick will not undergo deformation, and, most importantly, will retain its performance properties.

The surface of the brick does not affect the functionality of the final structure. This can be a smooth solid ceramic brick or a brick with a textured surface.

For decorative aesthetic purposes, it is better to use textured brick. which will perfectly complement the interior of any room.

You cannot use brick with voids, as high temperature will lead to its destruction.

The entire arsenal of tools necessary for lining a stove and fireplace with bricks with your own hands includes. trowel, spatula, pick or rubber hammer, grinder, level, angle, plumb line and fishing line for laces.

Types of chimneys

There are not so many materials from which a smoke exhaust duct can be built. This could be a stainless steel chimney - or rather, an entire system created in a factory, which can be mounted not only vertically, but also horizontally. The main pipe of such a chimney is placed in a sleeve, and between their walls there is a heat-insulating non-combustible material.

• Original systems of this type have a lot of undeniable advantages: they are not afraid of condensation and high temperatures, they are durable and resistant to wear. It is clear that all these characteristics depend on the quality of the steel, and the consumer cannot evaluate it visually. The only annoying thing is that the high price of a product is not a guarantee of its quality, and you can easily run into a fake.

• Similar systems are also produced on the basis of ceramic pipes. Their cost is even higher, but counterfeiting is almost impossible. In addition, ceramics combines all the advantages of high-alloy stainless steel. If we talk about their resistance to heat, then everyone knows that metal heats up faster and stronger than ceramics.
• It turns out that it is ahead of steel in many respects. In addition to the high price of ceramic systems, they have one significant drawback - their heavy weight, which requires the installation of a foundation. But this minus is more than compensated by their other advantages.
• We won’t even talk about polymer pipes as a smoke exhaust, since they can only be used at a certain temperature - mainly for boilers running on gas or liquid fuel. Buyers are attracted by the lower cost of plastic, but believe me, such pipes are not suitable even for removing smoke from a conventional stove.

Required Tools

To organize your work you need the simplest tools. If there is no electricity on the site, you can do without mixing with a drill and do everything by hand. To work you will need:

1. Trowel for laying bricks and cleaning off excess mortar.
2. Pickaxe for dividing bricks (if necessary).
3. Plumb to maintain even vertical masonry.
4. Water level for horizontal leveling.
5. Container for solution.
6. A shovel or drill with an attachment for mixing the solution.
7. Joining, if desired, make neat seams.
8. Sieve for sifting sand 1.5*1.5mm. Burlap is used for washing.
9. An abrasive attachment for a drill for cleaning finished masonry from excess mortar.

The grate is in place

• On the fourth row, the combustion chamber and smoke exhaust channels begin to form. The bricks are installed at the end. Stands are installed inside the channels on which the next rows will be laid, since there must be a hole for the smoke to escape. The back wall is laid without mortar.
• Having laid out the fourth row, the combustion chamber door is installed above it. installation is carried out according to the blower type, and the door is also temporarily secured using wire, which is fixed with bricks installed on the sides.
• The fifth row is laid out according to the diagram. All bricks are laid flat, except for those that form smoke exhaust channels with the inner walls.
• On the sixth row, the brick is installed on its end, and this row is the last when the brick is placed in this way. The back wall is laid with bricks installed at the end in two rows.
• The seventh row is placed according to the diagram.
• On the eighth row, the fire door is covered with a masonry of two bricks on top. In this row, a hewn brick is installed on the back wall, which will guide the flame towards the burner.
• On the ninth row, asbestos strips are placed in the place where the hob will be laid, which will ensure a tight seal between the bricks and the metal part. The masonry proceeds according to the diagram.
• On the tenth row, the hob is laid and the formation of the chimney begins.
• On the eleventh row, a valve is installed on the smoke exhaust duct. It is laid on asbestos strips and coated with clay mortar.

Installation and connection

When installing the stove, you must strictly follow the fire safety rules:

• The distance to walls and surrounding objects must be at least 800 mm. The walls can also be covered with ceramic tiles.
• All parts of the chimney must be tightly connected.
• The room must be equipped with a supply and exhaust ventilation system.

The chimney is installed like this:

• We fix the first piece of pipe above the chimney opening.
• We increase the pipe bends to the ceiling level.
• We make holes in the ceiling with a diameter of 170 mm. We remove a layer of thermal insulation around the hole to prevent fire.
• First, we mount the pass-through glass, then insert the pipe into it.
• Next, we connect the pipes to the external chimney.
• We apply bitumen to the pipe and insulate it.

If you need to heat a large area, you can connect the stove to a heating panel. This will increase the heat flow and allow it to be retained longer.

A DIY brick potbelly stove is a good alternative to a metal stove. Potbelly stoves made of metal are small in size, but have a serious drawback - the high thermal conductivity of the material. The metal heats up quickly, but soon cools down, resulting in the need to regularly maintain the fire, which means high fuel costs. A brick stove or a metal stove lined with brick is a more rational choice - it can retain heat for a long time.

Secrets of long-term operation of solid fuel units

The whole secret of long-term burning of a potbelly stove is hidden in the way of putting fuel into it. The firewood in such a stove is ignited from above, so there is no danger of all the logs placed in the fuel chamber catching fire at the same time.

Despite its unassuming appearance, a homemade long-burning potbelly stove successfully competes with many factory-made wood stoves

Additionally, this is facilitated by the method of air supply. The oxygen required for combustion is supplied only to the top layer of fuel. Such solutions make it possible to increase the size of the filling as much as the dimensions of the furnace allow. Of course, the continuous operation time of such units increases tens of times.

The secret of long-burning stoves is an efficient way of burning fuel

The duration of one heating cycle can be further increased by the pyrolytic decomposition of solid fuel, which occurs at high temperatures and lack of oxygen. In this case, firewood does not burn, but smolders, simultaneously forming a large amount of volatile hydrocarbon compounds. Pyrolysis gases burn under the roof of the furnace, releasing a large amount of heat. Thus, smoldering helps to lengthen the continuous combustion period, and pyrolysis makes it possible to increase the efficiency of the heat generator many times over.

The process of lining an iron stove with bricks

1. Before starting masonry, you need to soak the brick in cold water for 30 minutes, this will improve the quality of the masonry and make it more durable.

2. The recommended distance between the metal stove and the brickwork should be 10...12 cm; this air gap will allow you to retain heat longer.

3. It is recommended to cover the stove with half a brick. In this case, the heat will be retained longer than when laying in a “quarter brick” (when the brick is installed on a narrow edge), although the consumption of bricks is greater. In addition, “quarter brick” masonry is more complex and requires some experience and more careful control over the verticality and horizontality of the masonry.

4. Between the bars installed strictly vertically, you need to stretch a horizontal cord, which during the laying process will move higher and is a guideline for the horizontality of the masonry.

5. The first layer of masonry must be laid out especially carefully, since the direction of the entire wall depends on it. Having laid out the first row, you need to remove excess mortar; if necessary, the bricks are leveled with a rubber hammer.

6. You cannot start laying several rows at the same time.

7. The width of vertical seams should be 5...7 mm, and horizontal 8...10 mm.

8. In each row or every other row, it is necessary to provide openings the size of half a brick for ventilation and active heat flow into the room; sometimes the masonry is made “lattice” with a large number of holes.

9. While the mortar remains wet and plastic, having laid out several rows, you need to “join” the seams, and immediately remove the excess mortar, and wipe its remains with a damp cloth.

10. When lining the stove doors, you need to check that the brickwork does not interfere with opening them. If necessary, you need to use an iron strip if the doors are large enough.

11. The masonry can be finished at the height of the stove, or you can cover the chimney with brickwork. In the latter case, it is necessary to provide ventilation holes around the chimney.

12. The finished masonry should dry well, preferably naturally without the use of heating devices, in this case the risk of cracks is reduced.

Laying bricks around a metal body

The work is carried out in this order:

1. We lay the first row so that all the bricks are on the same level. To begin with - dry.
2. We prepare the mortar and begin laying, using leveling pads if necessary. The first row should be close to the metal.
3. The next rows are 50-70 millimeters away from the metal. We set the direction of the wall, maintaining the required gap, for which we lay pieces of brick close to the metal, providing the required gap.
4. The brick can be laid either end-on or flat. However, in the latter case, you will need twice as much material.
5. On the third row, you need to provide a hole for the circulation of air flows along the gap between the metal and the bricks.

Do not forget about the level and plumb line, which we use to check the verticality and horizontality of the rows. If you want the masonry to have an aesthetic appearance, you can use jointing. However, this must be done before the solution has dried. You can also use slats. Two rows before the end of the masonry (that is, in the penultimate row), it is necessary to provide gaps between the bricks to supply warm air into the room due to convection.

If you have the material and brick laying pattern, building a brick potbelly stove does not seem to be a difficult task. Success is guaranteed if you don’t rush and carefully follow the instructions, since if the evenness of the masonry is disrupted, a significant part of the work will have to be redone.

Conclusion

A potbelly stove lined with brick retains heat longer and allows you to consume less fuel. Masonry significantly increases the aesthetic qualities of a simple stove. If desired, the efficiency of the potbelly stove can be increased by installing a sandwich mesh. It protects the chimney from burning out and accumulates heat. Often the front side and top are left open. This way the stove warms up the room faster, but due to the reduction in brick area, it releases the heat faster. Clay mortar is ideal for stoves, but is demanding on room humidity. If the logs are old, it is better to remove some of them and pour a cement foundation.

People have been wondering how to line a potbelly stove to preserve heat since the time of the revolution. The brick absorbs some of the heat, which is safer to use and reduces the risk of getting burned. You can dry things, fruits and berries on the masonry. A potbelly stove has been helping out in the cold for more than one generation; it never ceases to be in demand and loved by all summer residents. Covering a stove with brick is an affordable and quick way to improve it and keep the house warm. A budget method that does not require special skills.

Calculation of basic parameters (with drawings and dimensions)

High efficiency of a potbelly stove can only be achieved if all the main design parameters are correctly calculated.

Pipe

In this case, the diameter of this element is very important. The throughput of the chimney should be less than the productivity of the furnace firebox, which is the main distinguishing feature of a potbelly stove. This will allow warm air not to immediately leave the stove, but to linger in it and heat the surrounding air.

It is very important to make an accurate calculation for it. The diameter should be 2.7 times the volume of the firebox. In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the firebox in liters

For example, the volume of the combustion chamber is 40 liters, which means the chimney diameter should be about 106 mm

In this case, the diameter is determined in millimeters, and the volume of the firebox in liters. For example, the volume of the combustion chamber is 40 liters, which means that the chimney diameter should be about 106 mm.

If the potbelly stove provides for the installation of grates, then the height of the firebox is calculated without taking into account the volume of this part, that is, from the top of the grate.

Screen

It is very important to force the hot gases not to cool, but to burn out completely. In addition, the fuel must burn through partial pyrolysis, which requires extremely high temperatures. A metal screen located on three sides of the stove will help to achieve a similar effect.

It should be placed at a distance of 50–70 mm from the stove walls, due to which most of the heat will return to the stove. This air movement will give the necessary high temperature and protect against fire.

A metal screen located on three sides of the stove will help to achieve a similar effect. It should be placed at a distance of 50–70 mm from the stove walls, due to which most of the heat will return to the stove. This air movement will give the necessary high temperature and protect against fire.

The screen of a potbelly stove made of red brick is capable of accumulating heat

Litter

It definitely has to be there. There are two reasons for this:

• some of the heat is radiated downwards;
• the floor on which the stove stands gets hot, which means there is a risk of fire.

The litter solves these two problems at once. As such, you can use a metal sheet with a projection of 350 mm (ideally 600 mm) beyond the contour of the furnace itself. There are also more modern materials that do an excellent job of this task, for example, a sheet of asbestos or kaolin cardboard, at least 6 mm thick.

You can use an asbestos sheet for bedding under a potbelly stove.

Chimney

Despite all the calculations, gases sometimes escape into the chimney not completely burned out. Therefore, it must be done in a special way. The chimney consists of:

• the vertical part (1–1.2 m), which is recommended to be wrapped in thermal insulation material;
• hog (slightly inclined part or completely horizontal), 2.5–4.5 m long, which should be 1.2 m from the ceiling, which is not protected with heat-resistant materials (1.5 m from the wooden surface), from the floor - by 2.2 m.

The chimney must be vented to the street