Types of stoves for a private wooden brick house - tips on which one to choose (with photos)

Connecting to central heating is not always possible and economically justified. Especially when it comes to life in a dacha cooperative or a remote village. In such a situation, you can limit yourself to a beautiful brick stove for a private house; photos of the best options are in our article.

The main advantage of this heating option is the use of brick blocks. They accumulate heat and release it over a long period of time. The draft promotes ventilation of the premises, the walls of the building remain dry, which is especially important for wooden cottages.

If this is provided for by the design, you can cook food. Some models provide a special bed for resting and sleeping.

But we should not forget about the negative aspects. In particular, only the rooms directly adjacent to the heating equipment are heated. The further the room is from the firebox, the colder it will be. There is only one way to fix the problem - to equip several units. They may have combined or separate chimneys. If the cottage is compact (according to the five-wall principle), the stove is placed in the central part. From the living rooms one can admire the open brazier; in the kitchen one can cook dinner.

Types of brick stoves for the home - photos

All existing modifications belong to one of the basic variations. They are adjusted, modified in size and shape, taking into account the parameters of the room and the wishes of the customer.

Russian

The main differences from all other variations are the massiveness and the presence of a sleeping place. For pots and pans there is a wide firebox, closed with a damper. The walls are heated by smoke channels of considerable length.

Dutch

You won't be able to cook a roast on it. The main purpose is to heat rooms through special passages from bottom to top.

Heating appliances are relatively small in size. They are chosen by the owners of country houses, including two-story ones. The shape of the unit is not strictly regulated. It can be chosen based on personal preferences. One thing remains mandatory - the height exceeds the width.

Swede

It is smaller in size than the Dutch one, but in terms of efficiency and versatility it is comparable to the Russian one. You can cook food on it and dry wet shoes in special niches. The Swedish stove is a channel-type stove, but the flue gases burn out under the roof. The design is not intended for large cottages. Its power is only enough for neighboring rooms. Another application is as an addition to a standard heating system.

A significant disadvantage is the high cost of masonry due to the use of fireclay bricks. In addition, a significant part of the heat escapes through the lower part. This can be avoided if you spend money on thermal insulation.

Bell furnaces

They appeared relatively recently, but have already gained popularity due to their uniform heating and ability to retain heat for a long time. The main difference from all the previously listed options is the lack of channels.

When wood or coal is burned, smoke rises to the top of the dome. Here it slowly cools and falls down along the walls, warming them up. The internal space can consist of dozens of individual vaults, which significantly increases the efficiency of the equipment.

Bell-type structures are characterized by minimal masonry costs and the ability to quickly warm up, including in winter. The gas view will not allow the structure to cool quickly when the damper is open. The original version does not have a hob, but if necessary, it is quite easy to build it in.

Step-by-step instruction

Laying rules in accordance with the order

The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see figure).

Furnace laying diagram

Adhere to the following rules:

1. The seams between the bricks in the arch of the firebox and the under-fire part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upward - up to a width of 5 mm, downward - up to 2 mm.
2. It is impossible to bandage the seams between ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion. For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
3. The masonry must be carried out with bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must overlap with the adjacent brick by at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
4. The laying of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked by level and plumb. So that verticality does not have to be checked every time, cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the stove (to do this, you need to drive nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then use them to guide you.
5. Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry using binding wire inserted into the seams, or using clamps made from a 25x2 mm steel strip. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and fire dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.

In fluff and otter, only the external size of the chimney increases, the internal cross-section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from brick are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.

How to make a heating unit with your own hands

The construction of the furnace body begins with the sub-furnace part.

1. In the absence of sufficient experience, the rows should first be laid out without mortar and thoroughly leveled, and only then the row should be transferred to the mortar. Also, novice craftsmen are recommended to lay out the furnace section of the furnace in formwork.

   Sub-flooding part

2. After laying the 3rd row, a blower door is installed on it.

   Blower installation

3. It must be level. To seal the gap between the brick and the frame, the latter is wrapped with asbestos cord.
4. Next, the fire part is laid out, for which stove and fireclay bricks are used.
   Laying the fire section and installing grates
5. Before laying, the blocks are cleaned from dust with a brush. Ceramic bricks need to be moistened by dipping them into a container of water, then shaken off. Wetting fireclay bricks is not only not required, but also not allowed. Many stove makers apply the solution by hand, since it is not easy to lay a thin layer 3 mm thick with a trowel. The brick must be placed correctly immediately, without adjusting or knocking. If it was not possible to do this the first time, the operation must be repeated, after first removing the mortar spread on the brick - it can no longer be used.
6. After laying several more rows, the ash pan chamber is covered with a grate. It should lie on fireclay bricks, in which the corresponding grooves are cut.
7. Install the combustion door in the same order in which the blower door was installed.
   Installation of the combustion door
8. Lay out the rows of the combustion chamber. If a low stove is being built, then the row of bricks above the fire door must be moved back somewhat so that they are not overturned by the heavy cast iron sheet when it is opened.
9. The combustion chamber is covered with a hob or roof (in pure heating stoves).
   Due to the significant difference in thermal expansion between cast iron and clay, the slab cannot be laid on the mortar - an asbestos cord must be placed under it. Installing a hob
10. Next, they continue laying the stove according to the order, creating a gas convector system. In order for soot to collect at the bottom of the gas convector, from where it is easily removed, the height of the lower interchannel transitions (flows) must be 30-50% greater than the upper ones (they are called passes). The edges of the passes need to be rounded.

Having completed the construction of the furnace body, they begin to construct the chimney.

Features of the formation of the arch

There are two types of vaults:

• flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat tray is used. A flat vault has one peculiarity: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
• semicircular (arched).

The latter are laid out using a pattern, also called a circle:

1. They begin by installing the outer support blocks on the mortar - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the vault, made in full size.
2. After the solution has dried, install the circle and lay out the wings of the vault.
3. The keystones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, having previously applied a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the mortar is squeezed out of the masonry of the wings: if the masonry was completed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire vault.

Formation of a semicircular arch

The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.

The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. With standard block sizes, the seam between them inside (on the firebox side) should be 2 mm wide, and outside - 13 mm.

Types of furnace equipment for gas movement

The brick warms up well and releases energy into the surrounding space for a long time. But this is not enough for high-quality heating of the kitchen or bedrooms. The heat capacity is increased due to the arrangement of special chambers that promote heating of the walls.

Without going into technical details, the movement of smoke through special channels occurs as follows:

• During the combustion of wood or coal, gases are formed that have an extremely high temperature. Under the influence of physical laws, they rise upward, but are delayed due to obstacles in the form of jumpers and valves;
• smoke begins to spread through the flues, heating the walls;
• the temperature of combustion products decreases. They go into the outlet pipe.

If the channels are laid horizontally, less time is spent on cooling than in analogues with vertical ones. The reason is the low air speed. The inevitable consequence is uneven heating of the rooms.

If we analyze all existing types of stoves, it is preferable to choose units with chimneys laid from the bottom up. No additional effort is required to move the gas. They inevitably move upward and warm up the surrounding space.

But equipment with a vertical chimney is not without its drawbacks. If, in the presence of horizontal channels, the space around the firebox warms up more, then here the heat accumulates in the upper part. The first option is more consistent with fire safety standards.

Another important point concerns furnaces with vertical channels. They should not be too long. The gas passing through them will cool down greatly. The result is uneven heating.

In bell-type heaters, it was possible to partially eliminate the disadvantages associated with heat distribution. Here, separate outlets open into a single chamber. The smoke passes through small-diameter holes and is collected in a hood under the upper ceiling. The combustion products partially cool and fall down. Then they rush into the atmosphere, obeying the natural forces of nature.

In terms of heat capacity, bell-type units are better than their analogues. They are chosen when it comes to heating a house of a large area. If you need to heat a small building at the dacha, a Dutch or Swedish one is enough.

Various functional purposes

First you need to decide on the functions that the device will perform.

This could be a stove:

• only for cooking;
• exclusively for heating the house;
• to perform both of these functions, i.e. combined option.

A hob is most often installed in small free-standing kitchens. The heat from burning wood is abundantly enough not only for cooking, but also for heating such a room.

A small cooking stove is suitable for an unheated kitchen, it will provide enough energy for cooking and will warm the surrounding area

Therefore, the device is placed next to two external walls so that excess thermal energy moves outside. In this case, the chimney is strictly vertical and small in size.

Heating stove . The design provides for maximum retention of thermal energy within the house. Such a device has neither a stove nor an oven, but the oven array is equipped with an extensive smoke circulation system.

Heating brick stoves are necessarily equipped with a massive chimney in order to retain as much thermal energy as possible within the house

A bulky chimney is necessary so that combustion products do not leave the house too quickly and have time to heat the brickwork, which then gives off heat to the air inside the premises. Such a stove is placed as close to the center of the house as possible so that individual rooms are heated evenly.

Detailed information about the installation of stove heating in a private house is presented in this article.

A brick hob with a metal oven can be an excellent alternative to conventional gas equipment if there is no gas or electricity

Combination oven . For its installation, both a hob and a branched chimney are used. They place it in the kitchen, but not near the outer walls, but next to the inner ones. The chimney is also, if possible, shifted towards the living rooms in order to provide them with sufficient heat.

Brick kiln performance

The task of any stove is to compensate for heat loss during the cold season. Cooking food and drying things are additional, albeit important functions. But when calculating power they are practically not taken into account.

The main parameter is the thermal characteristics of the building. To calculate them, energy losses through the floor, walls, ceiling, doors and windows are added up. If the building has ventilation ducts, they must be taken into account. The productivity of a Dutch or Swedish woman should exceed the obtained value by 10-15%. Otherwise it will be cold in winter.

During the use of stoves for a red brick house (pictured), the interdependencies between the area of ​​a separate room and heat loss under different conditions, for example, in the presence of only one or two external walls, were experimentally established.

In the second case, the calculations become more complicated, since the height of the ceiling is taken into account. If the surfaces of the firebox face the rooms and are closed, correction factors are used. They allow you to correct the data.

How often should you light the stove?

Taking into account how often fuel has to be loaded, all units belong to one of the groups listed below:

• periodic action. Firewood or coal is added from time to time. The combustion temperature can reach 1000 0C. To avoid fire and premature destruction of the structure, the wall thickness should start from ¾ brick;
• continuous burning. Heat is not accumulated. The density of the walls does not exceed ½ stone. The firebox is of shaft type. In the standard version, firewood smolders for up to a day. Energy is released evenly, in relatively small portions.

The second type of firebox requires large volumes of oxygen to operate. They are recommended for homes with permanent residence. At dachas and cottages used only on weekends, it is better to choose designs with periodic action.

In relation to the previously discussed types of equipment, the following must be indicated:

• Russian stove. During the cold season it is heated continuously. The body should not cool down. Otherwise, condensation will accumulate in the channels. The brick gets wet and cracks during subsequent ignition. In the summer months, by moving the valves, the fumes from the firebox are directed directly into the chimney. There is no heating effect;
• Dutch. After ignition, it warms up in a few minutes. But it cools down just as quickly if you don’t close the view in time. Recommended operating mode: continuous smoldering;
• Swede. In winter, it cannot be cooled completely due to accumulating condensation. The masonry can completely collapse within a few months;
• bell-shaped Operation in any mode is allowed. Warm up in a few minutes.

How to choose a stove for a red brick house - photo

If we are talking not only about heating, but also about complementing the interior, you can give preference to a round Irish stove. The thickness of the walls is ¼ stone. To give additional strength and increase heat transfer, a metal frame is “put on top”. It will strengthen the masonry and allow you to decorate the outer surfaces with forging.

If there are always people in the building, and there is a desire to cook food on wood or coal, you should choose a square or rectangular design, for example, Russian or Swedish. If you need a fireplace more as a stove for your home, pay attention to thin-walled Dutch or round Irish stoves. They are ideal if you don't need a special cooktop. And the front surface can be decorated with elegant tiles. They can become both an addition to the interior.

Do you want to stop using a gas stove? Variations of the Swede are at your service. They will warm you up and allow you to brew coffee over an open flame. The main thing is to correctly lay out and select the source materials.

Where to place the stove in the house

The main focus is on the design phase. The quality of the drawings determines the safety, performance properties, and aesthetic appeal of heating equipment. If you don’t have your own drawing skills, it’s better to turn to professionals. When choosing a place for placement, both the type of heater itself and the area of ​​the cottage or part of it that is planned to be heated are taken into account.

Selection of working tools

Then you can move on to the tools. For work you will need:

• jointing With its help, concrete is poured into the seams;
• trowel;
• pick;
• shovel for mixing and supplying the solution;
• special line.

Materials

The next stage is purchasing the material. The heat transfer of the stove and its durability will depend on the quality of the brick. The rules are as follows:

• the outer surface is made of brick (grade M-500). They do not crack, do not lose their consumer properties during periodic heating or cooling;
• Only refractory bricks are suitable for the combustion chamber.

In addition, you will need sifted sand and high-quality clay.

Laying the foundation

Materials have been purchased. You can move on to the construction stage. It is important to understand that the stove must stand on a strong and high-quality foundation. It is better to lay it at the same time as the base of the entire house.

If the decision to build a Dutch or Swedish one is made only now, you will have to:

• dig a hole. On each side there should be at least 20 cm to the walls;
• level the bottom and fill it with sand, followed by thorough compaction;
• lay a waterproofing membrane;
• install formwork;
• pour concrete (1 part cement x 2.5 parts sand x 4 parts small crushed stone) to ground level. The surface of the foundation must be strictly horizontal;
• wait 5-6 days for the concrete to harden. After this, you can disassemble the formwork and lay waterproofing.

If, as a result, the foundation ends up below the floor level, it is leveled by additional pouring of concrete mixture. In the latter case, the formwork is rebuilt. The entire space around the foundation is filled with soil and thoroughly compacted.

Masonry process

First, a mixture of sand and clay, previously soaked, is prepared. It fills the gaps between the outer and inner walls. They are displayed separately, but there should be no spaces between them. The lowest rows are only made of solid brick and with a sling. Then the brick is cut taking into account the selected modification. The chopped side faces the inside of the masonry. To build a chimney you will need red burnt stones. Knowing the “castle” layout will not be superfluous. A brick chimney must be lined with a FERRUM stainless steel chimney to prevent the formation of condensation and premature destruction.

Is the oven built? There is no need to rush to melt it. You must wait at least 3 weeks.

Materials and tools for work

In order to build a stove with your own hands, you should first stock up on the necessary tools and what it will be made of. To do this, take one of three types of bricks:

• ceramic;
• silicate;
• refractory.

In general, the last option is the most ideal material from which stoves are made, but as practice shows, they are most often used when laying a fireplace or firebox on the outside of a building.

Among the refractory bricks are:

• fireclay;
• refractory.

After everything has been decided with the materials for laying the stove and the choice has been made, you can begin to prepare the necessary equipment. During work you will need:

• rule;
• hammer-pick;
• fun;
• furnace hammer;
• sweeper for cleaning the canal;
• level;
• marking rod;
• plumb line;
• pliers;
• chisel;
• sieve;
• construction corner;
• container;
• rasp.

Once all the necessary tools are ready, it is time to begin preparing the solution.

Three options for laying a stove with orders

Below is information regarding the construction of the main body of heating equipment. Laying the foundation is discussed in detail in the previous paragraph of this article. The most popular modifications are selected as examples.

Russian with a high bed

Settles in regions with cold and temperate climates. It is heated once/twice a day.

Below are descriptions of the rows:

• The first should be continuous using cement or lime mortar.
• Starting from the 2nd to the 4th, they begin to build a semblance of a well. On the front side there is a hole for baking. A prerequisite is the presence of a dressing.
• 5th - beginning of the arch. To lay it out, you will need shaped formwork, and the heels of the bricks will have to be pulled off. The operation continues in lines 6 and 7. In the 8th the vault closes.
• Rows 8 to 10 are laid out in one stone. At 11, the cold stove turns off. A layer of sand is poured on top. It should slope towards the rear.
• In the 12th, a continuous surface of refractory stone is laid out over the poured sand. This part of the firebox will be in direct contact with the fire. It is desirable that the floor is perfectly level. Does not work? You can add sand and sand the outer surface.
• Rows 13 to 16 are a crucible. Blocks - 3/4, with a sling. No masonry mortar is required at this stage. To make castles, the stones are cut to 450.
• Starting from the 17th line, the mouth and posterior surface are formed. The cooking chamber is being built. A brick with hewn heels is placed on its edge.
• 18th. The furnace walls are laid out. To fill the free space between the individual chambers you will need sand. You can add cut heels to it.
• 19th - laying out the vaulted opening above the pole. Behind it is the mouth.
• 20th - the walls are leveled. The hole above the pole is reduced. A cross-pipe is formed.
• The 21st row is no different from the 19th.
• 22nd - the vault closes. On the right is a chamber in which soot will accumulate. The view is also located here. With its help, the chimney is blocked so that the heat does not escape into the atmosphere too quickly.
• Lines 22 to 32 - laying out the overpipe, laying the view and building a chimney channel. The cross-section of the latter is 26x26 cm.

After this, all that remains is to remove the outer pipe and mount an additional damper. It will require a steel corner or strip 3 mm thick.

Semicircular chambers can be replaced with ordinary rectangular ones.

Improved "Teplushka"

All brick ovens have one common drawback - the walls heat up unevenly. Builders are trying to solve this problem by introducing changes to the design. This is how “Teplushka” appeared. After fuel combustion, part of the gas leaves the house immediately through the chimney. The remainder goes into the channels and is intended for space heating.

Heat transfer in comparison with the classic Russian modification increases immediately by 2.5 times. Structurally, “Teplushka” is closer to its bell-type analogues. The chamber is divided into 2 parts: food is prepared in the upper part, fuel is burned in the lower part. The floor itself is supported by pre-installed posts. Additionally, there are 4 openings on the sides to allow combustion products to pass through. The minimum chimney height is 5 meters. The countdown is from the bottom of the firebox.

The main differences from the traditional version are the displacement of the channel relative to the firebox. To remove cooled gas, special holes are laid at the bottom of the channel.

Important! The damper must be closed during cooking. You can use a special peephole.

The orders for the "Teplushka" are presented in numerous diagrams. The main requirement is that to increase heat transfer, the ceiling installed in line 21 is carefully covered with a mixture of sand and debris.

Simple stove with shield

This option is for those who want to build a stove at their dacha or in a small country cottage (no more than 20 square meters) with minimal costs, including temporary ones. The firebox is made of fireclay clinker, optionally red solid (provided that only coal will be used as fuel).

Cooking and burning fuel are in separate chambers. Gases pass through the cooking chamber and pass into the chimney. Photos of brick stoves for the home allow you to see in detail all the necessary masonry sections.

A horizontal channel is installed at the very bottom. Thanks to it, the air near the foundation warms up well. A microclimate favorable for humans is created in the room.

Chimney pipe

Installing a chimney can be very simple. For this type of stove, a metal pipe with a diameter of 11.5 cm is suitable. It is also worth considering an asbestos cement pipe; this type is most applicable. The height of the chimney itself above the roof is 50 cm.

Advantages of a brick kiln

The main advantage of Swedes and bell-shaped variations is their heat capacity. If you choose the right place for placement and lay it out without errors, you can maintain a comfortable temperature in 4 rooms at once using one device.

Additional advantages include:

• independence from central heating;
• environmental cleanliness. If you don’t throw plastic yogurt jars into the firebox, a minimum of harmful substances will be released into the atmosphere;
• unpretentiousness in care and maintenance;
• the ability to choose a completely unique exterior design.

Another important aspect is the creation of a favorable microclimate in the rooms. The air does not dry out, and the walls warm up well.

Criterias of choice

1. The design of the furnace must be the same size as the area allocated for its installation. The amount of heat transfer depends on compliance with this rule.
2. Choose the right oven shape. For heating the room, a shape is suitable where the side walls are long and the front and back walls are narrow.
3. The stove must be located in the house in such a way that it does not disturb anyone and at the same time is in its place to perform certain functions.
4. A small house does not need a massive stove - its impressive dimensions will not warm the house faster. It is better to have a smaller oven that quickly reaches the desired temperature than a large and wasteful one.

Tips from the professionals

A brick stove in a wooden house will create an aura of warmth and comfort - interior photos confirm this. But its masonry should be treated with special attention.

On specialized websites, experts and amateurs share their experiences and present ordering schemes. You can also find plenty of finishing tips.

To summarize the most frequently encountered recommendations, we can highlight the following:

• special attention to the dressing and thickness of the seams. The last parameter must be the same throughout the array;
• brick blocks are pre-soaked in water;
• for cutting you will need a grinder with diamond wheels;
• In the smoke ducts on the walls, no cement should be visible from the seams.

Main advice: if you have no experience in construction work at all, it is better to initially contact a specialized company.

Video description

You can clearly see one of the options for arranging a Swedish stove without a fireplace compartment in the following video:

• The next, tenth row is created with bricks in the amount of 17.5 pieces.

They cover the front part of the place where the oven will be. The blocks are mounted directly on metal strips. Their installation allows you to combine the space above the firebox and oven. In this case, cutouts are first made at the top of the bricks used. They will allow you to subsequently lay the cast iron hob.

On a note! At the same stage, a place is designed where in the future a small door will be installed, allowing the upper part of the fireplace chamber to be cleaned.

• For the next, eleventh row, use 18.5 bricks.

From these they begin to build the walls of the brewing compartment, where there is already a cast iron panel. The brick blocks laid on the right should close the gap between the fixed cooking plate and the already created wall. At the same time, the blocks that are used to create the back wall of the fireplace chamber are pushed forward 4 cm and then pulled together. This allows you to continue creating the inclined surface.