How to fix a floorboard correctly using self-tapping screws

Flooring is a long-awaited step in the transition from the state of “when will this construction end” to the state of “it seems it will end soon.” The premises take on a more or less normal appearance, and it is easier to estimate areas and volumes. On open roads, verandas, and in outbuildings, the plank floor is laid from edged boards. But there are cracks in it, which, in this case, is acceptable. In residential premises, a special tongue and groove board is usually used. Its installation has its own characteristics, which we will discuss in this article. So, laying a tongue and groove floor - details and techniques.

Methods for attaching the board

Before installation, it is useful to consider a number of factors that may appear later:

• Even special treatment does not exclude the possibility of moisture affecting the floorboard. If the room is constantly damp, the material will become saturated with water. Periodic changes lead to constant fluctuations in the structure of the structure, which causes curvature and warping;
• Shrinkage is a natural process that takes a long period of time. The flooring will show it in any case, so it is useful to keep some of the structural components unfixed. Only the first and last boards, as well as every fourth between them, need to be pulled to the supporting elements;
• The final installation of the floor is carried out no earlier than six months to a year after the completion of the first stage of work. In this case, the screws are unscrewed and the flooring parts are tapped together if there are gaps in the tongue-and-groove area. Warped and severely deformed ones are removed and replaced with new ones;
• Lumber must be treated with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation. When sawing, it is necessary to process the resulting cuts and ends. It is convenient to work with substances that have colors and bright shades. In this case, the uncoated areas are clearly visible.

Fastening with glue

If the base is solid, then the flooring elements can be secured using good glue.

A number of features are taken into account:

• Regular PVA is suitable for the job;
• The ends of the boards on the groove side are coated, and a thin layer (1-2 mm thick) is applied every half meter. This will allow the connecting composition not to be squeezed out onto the surface when docking with the tenon;
• It is necessary to lubricate well for a reliable connection.

A permanent connection is considered inconvenient, since in case of repair it is more difficult to disassemble the flooring. There are two common mistakes: either the adhesive is too weak or the adhesive is too strong. In the first case, the connection can easily break; in the second, it will be impossible to separate the boards and will have to be broken. The best option is to use glue with average characteristics.

Typically, this method is not used as an independent method, but only in addition to other options.

Fastening with a nail

The second permanent fixation method is nails. Despite a history of more than 3 thousand years, this type of fastener continues to develop (up to 5 new types are patented every year).

Features of connecting boards with a nail:

• When raising the floor, you will have to dismantle the entire flooring. For this, a nail puller or similar tool is usually used; when pulled, the board itself is damaged;
• In addition to the floor elements, the nail itself is deformed; it is almost impossible to pull it out intact after nailing it;
• Each fastening pushes the fibers apart, increasing the risk of future cracks;
• The smooth surface of the fastener does not eliminate the risk of turning lumber already in a fixed state. Therefore there must be at least 2 points.

With this method, metal caps will be visible against the background of the array. To disguise them, it is wise to use putty. Hammering it into the groove will help; you need to fix the nail so that it does not interfere with the connection with the adjacent board.

Fastening boards with self-tapping screws

The most popular, convenient and at the same time affordable option. First of all, the method allows you to create a good detachable connection, which can be dismantled using a regular screwdriver. If necessary, you can reuse each hardware, since it is difficult to break the screws when unscrewing them.

Hardware of this type for wood differs from components for metal. The thread pitch is increased to move the fibers apart less and eliminate the risk of cracks. The decorative advantage of the products is important, since the thread does not reach the cap and it itself has the shape of a cone at the bottom, which allows it to be recessed flush with the floor plane.

Aesthetics can be achieved in several ways:

• Use special twisting methods, when the hardware is screwed at an angle into the tenon and remains invisible during assembly;
• Buy special caps that are inserted into the cap after screwing. They can be matched to any type of wood, but form a protrusion;
• Covering with a mixture of glue and wood flour. When sawing a board, small shavings are formed; they can be mixed and covered with screwed fasteners on top. In this case, you will have to deepen them further so that there is room for caulking flush with the floor.

Depending on the thickness of the fastening, you need to select the appropriate screws. Typically used sizes range from 3.5X35 to 3.5X50 mm.

When laying a board, you need to screw at least 2 fasteners into even the smallest components. Otherwise, 1 fixation point will become an axis around which the board will tend to rotate under load. A squeak will quickly appear in this area and the decking component may begin to wobble.

When twisting, you need to install the elements at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, and you need to retreat 5-10 cm from the edge. This will create a reliable connection, but avoid the appearance of areas of tension along which cracks may develop under load. The only way to completely eliminate the appearance of cracks is by drilling holes for each self-tapping screw; for this you will need a screwdriver and a drill, as thick as the stem of the hardware, but less than the diameter of the thread that should be fixed in the material.

Fastening boards to joists

You can attach it to the joists using any of the described methods, the point is that over a certain space (above the basement, floor) support components are formed in the form of powerful boards, 100X100 or 150X100 are often used. Such a support will be very reliable, suitable, for example, in a garage where a car is supposed to be stored.

For home use, more modest lumber, from 70x40 mm, is sufficient. They are placed at an equal distance, on average 50-100 cm, depending on the thickness of the joists and the flooring itself. This is how supporting elements appear into which nails will be driven or screws will be screwed.

How to choose quality material

Installing a tongue and groove floor begins with choosing the material. First let's talk about sizes. The width of the floorboard varies from 70 mm to 200 mm. If you choose one that is too narrow, it will take a lot of time to install; if it is too wide, there is a very high probability that when it dries, the edges of the board will rise and the floor will turn out ribbed. The problem can be solved by grinding, but this requires additional time and money. Therefore, most often they take a tongue-and-groove board of medium width - 130-150 cm.

The choice of floorboard thickness depends on the distance between the joists

The thickness of the tongue and groove board is from 18 mm to 45 mm. It is not profitable to lay a thin one - so that it does not sag when laid on the joists, they (the joists) must be installed often. Therefore, lumber with a thickness of 28 mm, 36 mm, 45 mm is often used for flooring.

The tongue and groove board is sold in different lengths. The standard ones are 3 m and 6 m, but they produce 4 m and 5 m. The choice here is simple: the length of the material should be slightly greater than the length of the room in which it will be laid. Splicing in length is not very beautiful, that’s why they do it this way more often.

Choosing a wood type

The floorboard is made from pine and spruce, larch, oak or ash. Pine and spruce are not expensive, but their wood is soft. Traces remain from heels, fallen objects, and are pressed through furniture. In places of active movement, “trails” are formed over time. The situation can be saved by covering with wear-resistant varnish in several layers. If this option suits you, it’s a good choice.

Pine or spruce tongue and groove boards under varnish last a long time

A tongue and groove larch board is a more expensive material, but also more wear-resistant. The wood has a pronounced pattern and a pleasant color. Can be used uncoated or coated with oil-based formulations without creating a hard film on the surface.

Oak and ash are very beautiful hardwoods with dense, wear-resistant wood. But the price for them is completely inhumane. As in the previous version, floors made of these types of wood can be used without coating or with more gentle compositions.

Type of tongue and groove board and its characteristics

All lumber is divided into four grades:

• Class "Extra". Made from top quality material. There should be no brown or black knots, irregularities, cracks or other defects.
• Class A. Single stains are acceptable, otherwise no defects.

  
  The difference between different types of tongue and groove floorboards

• Class B (or AB). There may be brown knots, irregularities and spots.
• Class C. Irregularities, stains, black and brown knots, and a certain amount of through stains from knots are acceptable.

Grade C is used when constructing a subfloor. There are too many defects in it for a clean one. The remaining classes are suitable for fine coating, but which grade you choose depends on your financial capabilities - the difference between the classes is significant.

Humidity

For comfortable installation of tongue and groove flooring, choose kiln-dried wood. In this case, after sawing, the raw material is kept in drying chambers, in which it is brought to a humidity of 8-14%. Such material is unlikely to dry out after installation - this is almost impossible, but the cost is approximately 50% higher compared to naturally drying material. This is due to the costs of equipment (drying chambers) and fuel for drying.

Kiln-drying tongue-and-groove board packed in polyethylene

Humidity is measured with a special device, which professionals have, and even then not everyone has. You can also try to determine by appearance. Most often, kiln-dried lumber is packaged in polyethylene so that it does not absorb moisture from the air. Naturally, the packaging must be undamaged and free of moisture (condensation on the inside). If you knock on dry wood, it makes a clear, ringing sound, while wet wood sounds dull.

What happens if you lay a floor made of tongue-and-groove boards with high humidity? The first thing you have to deal with is the formation of cracks as it shrinks. After six months or a year, the floor will have to be re-laid, removing the resulting cracks. Secondly, when drying, cracks often appear and the wood is twisted in different directions. Sometimes these curvatures can be compensated for by pressing the board harder, sometimes not. So you have to keep a couple of boards “in reserve”: to add when reassembling from shrinkage and to replace severely crumpled fragments.

Geometry

When choosing, be sure to pay attention to geometry. In addition to the fact that the thickness and width of the board must match, and there should be no significant curvature, you need to pay attention to the correct formation of the tongue and groove:

• The depth of the groove should be slightly larger than the tongue. In this case, laying a tongue-and-groove floor will be simple and you will not have to manually modify the lumber.
• Keep track of the distance from the top plane to the tongue and groove. It must match, and on all boards of the party. Then, immediately after installation, you will get an even coating that does not require additional sanding.

  
  Two tongue-and-groove boards should fit together without gaps

In normal production, this is all monitored, but in reality there is a very large spread - 5 mm is not the limit. It is clear that such a floor will have to be sanded. But the smaller the discrepancy, the smaller the amount of work will be. Therefore, try to find a manufacturer whose difference will be minimal.

Board installation

Installation of floorboards must be carried out using proven methods. Unreliable fixation will lead to loosening of the flooring and creaks. Gradually, the destruction of hardware begins, the holes for them deteriorate, and the risk of cracking increases.

Another important point is to obtain an aesthetic flooring that will not develop rusty drops or protruding caps over time.

Several methods can achieve this:

1. Putty on nail heads. If you drive nails at floor level, rust may appear over time (if the nails are uncoated). Galvanized and galvanized fasteners are not subject to corrosion indoors. To cover the head, the nail, after being completely immersed in the wood, is driven slightly deeper than the level of the board. This creates a small groove in which the putty or mixture with sawdust is fixed;
2. If you use clamps, you can get a perfect flooring without visible fasteners. In this case, small metal brackets are used, which are screwed to the joists and hold the boards by the groove;
3. Method for ordinary self-tapping screws: if you screw them at an angle of about 45 degrees into the tongue. You will have to screw it in deeply so that the caps do not interfere with the joining of the projections of subsequent lumber;
4. Nails with decorative heads. They differ from classic fasteners in a thinner and taller head, which is immersed in the wood at a level with the floor plane. The metal “dot” on the boards will be smaller, almost invisible from the outside.

Fixing floorboards with nails

In this case, the floorboard is fastened to a wooden base, which can be solid or made of joists. Initially, the width of the floorboard is taken into account, which is important.

Next, we will tell you how to lay a floorboard using this fastening method.

The first row of floorboards is secured using nails, which are driven at a 45° angle through the tongue into the base. Then they are driven into place. You should pre-drill holes for fastening elements. This is done so as not to damage the ridges.

When adjusting the next row, the nails must be hidden. All subsequent rows of boards are fixed by driving nails through the surface.

When repairing a plank floor and replacing several floorboards, you need to ensure that all the floorboards end under the center of the crossbar. Otherwise, you may end up with a non-durable coating.

General rules for flooring

There are a number of recommendations for various work options:

• Fastening on a prepared base when using hardware is carried out in increments of 250-300 mm;
• There is no need to adjust each section of the flooring to the width of the room; you need to retreat at least 10 mm from the walls. This gap will act as a compensatory gap, which will allow the boards to take their place during drying without harm. Otherwise, the risk of deformation and warping increases;
• When assembling with self-tapping screws, you can disguise the fasteners even when screwing them vertically. To do this, they need to be recessed by 3-4 mm, and then plug the resulting hole with a plug made of the same wood as the floor. On the market you can find options for all common breeds.

Glue method

If the floorboard is laid on a solid base, it can be fixed with glue. To do this, the grooves of the boards are coated with an adhesive, you can use regular PVA glue, and then they are placed on the tongues of the previous row.

The glue should be applied in a thin layer in 50 cm increments along the entire groove. The final tongue-and-groove edges should also be coated with adhesive.

How to tighten floor boards

The components of the structure must be tightened after drying, which takes up to 6-12 months. If board classes AB and B are used, they may be slightly deformed.

When laying such lumber, the smoothest ones should be fixed first. They are leveled as much as possible and secured. Next, the flooring components are alternated so that the curved and concave sections coincide.

In this case, it is impossible to simultaneously apply force for alignment and screw in the hardware, so several options for tightening tools are used:

• Wedges. You need to take two wedges (triangles made of wood with a long acute angle), secure the support and tamp the flooring with them. In its simplest form, a piece of board is used as a stop, which is screwed to the joists at the required distance for each leveled component;
• Clamps. Quite an expensive pleasure, especially considering the suitable sizes;
• You can assemble your own leveling machine, which is easily screwed to the joists and is equipped with a lever to easily and quickly press even several boards at a time.

Advantages and disadvantages of floors made of tongue-and-groove boards on joists

The popularity of tongue and groove material is explained by a wide list of advantages:

• The floor covering provides reliable thermal insulation and also has excellent sound insulation properties.
• The underside of the boards has small grooves, which are designed for high-quality ventilation of products and prevent the development of fungus on the wood.
• A special connection mechanism called “tenon and groove” allows you to distribute the load on the coating. This significantly extends the service life of the structure.
• This installation method does not take much time due to the simple locking connection.
• The sizes of the products are standard, which speeds up the installation process.
• The absence of any chemical components makes the material absolutely safe for use.
• Unique appearance.
• If defects or significant damage to the coating occur, it is enough to sand the surface and coat it with high-quality varnish.

Stages of laying the board

There are general steps required to create a quality floor:

1. Analysis and selection of installation method. You need to proceed from the financial capabilities and skills you have;
2. In accordance with the selected method, the necessary materials are calculated. These are logs, the flooring boards themselves, hardware and fastenings for fixing, paint and varnish coatings, impregnations. It is worth considering consumables, such as jigsaw files, gloves, protective equipment;
3. Preparation of the base;
4. Laying boards;
5. Final finishing.

Successful work begins with preparing the base, which can be of two types: plywood or in the form of sheathing made of logs. The second method is preferable, but may not be suitable in some cases, for example, with low ceilings, since the installation of load-bearing components will reduce the height. Support beams are also not used if the old floor is preserved.

The floor is guaranteed to be damaged if the boards are laid on a screed or surface that retains moisture. To make sure it has dried, you need to put polyethylene on the floor and glue it in the corners; if after a day there are no drops of condensation on the inside, then you can start working.

Features of installation using glue

Glue is the main plus and minus in the method of fixing the flooring itself. It simplifies the work, but does not make it possible to assemble a coating that can be reused after dismantling.

It is important to remember that adhesive for interior living areas will work without water resistance. For the kitchen, it is wiser to take a waterproof one, so that an accidentally spilled drink does not spoil the junction of the components.

On what basis to lay the board

Before you begin assembling the flooring, you need to remember that the surface must be flat. A slope of no more than 0.2% of the length of the room is allowed; you can check it with a level.

For concrete foundations in case of deviations, it is worth using self-leveling compounds.

Next you need to create a waterproofing layer:

• Roofing felt, glassine or polyethylene sheets are purchased;
• The parts of the waterproofing layer are laid with an overlap of up to 20 cm; the overlap on the walls is up to 15 cm. All elements are glued together to create a continuous sheet; tape is suitable for this;
• You can apply a special waterproofing mastic to the concrete base.

Insulation and waterproofing of the floor

Laying stone wool between joists
For wooden floors, film insulators are used, which effectively protect the covering elements from ground moisture. Waterproofing also provides a comfortable environment for people to avoid developing respiratory diseases due to mold and mildew. The film must be attached in accordance with the technology.

Insulation is done in several stages before attaching the floor board to the joists:

• an insulating membrane from the wind is installed on top of the subfloor, the edges of which are placed on the joists and fastened with a stapler;
• insulation is placed between the beams on top of the film;
• A vapor barrier film is placed over the insulation, and the edges are glued to the mounting tape.

Attention is paid to the membrane joints to obtain a complete coating. For insulation, polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are used, which have zero saturation with moisture and do not violate the protection. Mineral wool requires a ventilated gap. Expanded clay gravel is placed in niches between joists and beams.

Installing a board over an existing floor

If the old floor is satisfactory and has a flat surface, then you can install fresh flooring on top. If there are damaged boards, you can replace them with inexpensive pine lumber. Fasteners that are not trustworthy or are loose, rusty, or broken are duplicated.

When laying on an old floor, be sure to lay the new parts perpendicularly to strengthen the structure and avoid squeaking immediately after installation.

It is useful to grind the old surface; this will improve adhesion when using glue and level the surface.

Features and characteristics of tongue and groove boards

This type of flooring material is a board with ridges and a milled groove, which allows you to create a completely flat surface without gaps. Distinctive characteristics are high installation speed and structural strength.

Typically, connection locks are located on either two or four sides of the part. On the back side of the lock there are bevels that ensure optimal air circulation in the structure being secured. The boards should be attached to the floor joists carefully, keeping to the same level. Thanks to the equal thickness of all elements, the floor covering is perfectly smooth.

Treatment with special protective compounds should be carried out on both sides. When choosing cheap copies, you may encounter a low-quality product that is processed only on one side. Experts advise paying attention to the presence of ventilation holes.

Floor screed tools

For work you need several basic tools:

• Cordless screwdriver (corded drill) and wood drills. Allows you to prepare holes for self-tapping screws to reduce stress in the wood structure. Convenient for tightening self-tapping screws, but you will need a cue ball of the appropriate configuration (usually a “cross”);
• Hammer and nail puller, if nails are supposed to be used;
• A pair of gloves, a protective mask, goggles;
• Jigsaw and file for it. Essential for quickly sawing deck components;
• Glue and brush. The brush is also suitable for applying paintwork, if provided;
• Level, square, tape measure. A level will do;
• Pencil for marking. The most convenient thing is an ordinary pencil, since it can always be erased from the board, removing unwanted marks after marking.

Briefly about the main thing

Having decided to use tongue and groove boards for a finished floor, you need to take a responsible approach to their choice, having decided on the type of wood, making sure the quality of the locks and the permissible humidity of the products. For a beautiful and durable coating, it is better to take lumber of grade no lower than A or AB with ventilation grooves on the back surface. When installing the floor, use corrosion-resistant fasteners, screwing them in a secret way into the groove of the board. The slightest gaps during joining are eliminated by tightening them with special devices.

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Where to order floorboards

We suggest starting construction with the purchase of high-quality lumber. Larch has certified products and the ability to deliver throughout Moscow and the region using its own vehicles. We offer significant savings through self-pickup - in this case, we will load your car for free! Also, it is possible to send an order throughout Russia through a transport company.

Finally, watch an interesting and useful video on the topic of laying floorboards:

On what basis is it better to lay tongue and groove?

After purchasing tongue and groove boards, you can proceed to laying them. As a base you can use:

• Wooden logs fixed on top of any covering - screed, plywood, wooden floor. Also, logs can be laid on brick supports.
• Concrete floors with screed.
• Moisture-resistant plywood.
• Old wooden floor.
• Subfloor made of tongue-and-groove boards or low grade lumber.

The gold standard in construction is the laying of tongue and groove boards on pre-fixed joists. They allow you to efficiently tighten the boards during installation and prevent further floor deformations. Therefore, we recommend that you choose this option.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with our range of materials

• Floorboard - Extra grade

  Wood Larch Width 120 mm Thickness 27 mm Length 3 m Qty.
  in pack 4 things. 3400 rub/m2

• Floorboard – Prima grade

  Wood Larch Width 120 mm Thickness 27 mm Length 3 m Qty.
  in pack 4 things. 3000 rub/m2

What are they needed for?

Laying wooden beams as lathing under the future floor allows you to strengthen the entire floor structure as a whole. In addition, noise and heat insulation materials are placed in the distance between the joists, which greatly improves the characteristics of the floor.

Properly installed beams and the distance between them ensure sufficient ventilation of the underground space of the house, which means that the wood will not rot over time. Especially if the building is located on an area with high groundwater. How to properly install logs and calculate the optimal distance between the sheathing beams is discussed below.

Installation of plank floors using joists

The most common scheme for installing plank floors. Logs (wooden blocks with a rectangular cross-section) can be attached to the rough base using adhesive mastics or self-tapping screws. Lay them perpendicular to the direction of the floorboard.

After installation, the system constructed from timber is leveled by planing the excesses and placing wood chips under the low areas. You can lay joists using an innovative, high-speed method, using timber equipped with height adjustment devices.

Description of the material, its pros and cons

Floorboards have been used as flooring since ancient times. This was due to the wide availability of the material and the ease of its processing. Floorboards are made from natural material – wood. Floors made from them have an attractive appearance, a pleasant smell and a relatively inexpensive price. At the same time, a plank floor in a garage or other premises will be significantly better than laminate and will not be inferior to parquet.

The main advantage of flooring boards over laminate is that the material is a solid solid wood. Laying the floorboard involves connecting all floor materials with a special lock. For this purpose, there are grooves and tenons that connect the material. This method of installation allows you to protect the floors from moisture and deformation due to temperature changes. The positive qualities of plank floors include the following:

1. Long service life. Proper installation of floorboards and properly selected high-quality material will allow floors to last up to 100 years or more.
2. Easy to repair floors. This is due to the ease of its dismantling.
3. Relatively low cost of material. It is comparable to the cost of laminate.
4. Aesthetic appearance. Castles and palaces were decorated with wooden floors.
5. Environmental friendliness of the material. Wood is a natural material that does not harm human health.
6. High strength characteristics. Floorboard flooring can support almost any furniture.
7. Good thermal insulation properties. Wood is one of the warmest materials; wooden floors in a garage and a residential building will always be warm.
8. Materials that are not coated with varnish do not cause allergies and do not accumulate static electricity.

The disadvantages of plank flooring include:

1. Poor sound insulation properties.
2. Wood begins to rot when exposed to moisture.
3. The need to varnish the surface to protect it from abrasion, otherwise the surface will lose its appearance.
4. Floors made of planks (including durable ones made from deck boards) do not withstand strong mechanical shocks and are scratched by sharp objects.
5. Wood is a flammable material.
6. The tree is susceptible to rotting and can be eaten by insects and rodents.
7. The material swells from moisture, and from the sun and heat it dries out and cracks.

Wood materials have the following characteristics:

1. The thickness of the boards ranges from 18 to 42 mm, width - 85-150 mm, length 900-6000 mm.
2. An important indicator is the hardness of the boards. It usually ranges from 1.5 to 7 units and is determined by the Brinell method. The strongest oak materials have a strength value of 3.7 points, larch - 3.1, pine and other conifers - about 2 points. At the same time, larch materials are perfect for baths, saunas, kitchens and baths - wherever there is high humidity. Oak is perfect for any room, including the floors in the garage and other rooms where they will bear a heavy load.

It is important to carefully select the material: the samples should be dry, and not overdried or wet. For example, thick but damp ones will behave in such a way that their fastenings will be broken and torn off.

Overdried wood will not be able to withstand heavy loads and will crack when laying the floorboard.

Moisture-resistant plywood base

Hydrophobic impregnated plywood can be laid on any type of sub-base, including joists, if additional strengthening of the multi-layer floor structure is required. The standard installation of a floorboard on top of plywood precedes the leveling of the rough base.

Sheets of plywood, cut into longitudinal segments, are installed in a diagonal direction relative to the laying of the board. Fastening is done with dowels or screws. Technological seams are left between the plywood sheets and around the perimeter of the room being furnished.

Scheme for installing boards on plywood:

1. rough base;
2. insulating substrate;
3. moisture-resistant plywood;
4. floor covering - boards

Note. The plywood can simply be glued to the screed, to a leveled cement or wooden floor prepared for installation. Those who prefer adhesive technology must definitely select an adhesive composition that is compatible with the type of roughing base and insulating materials.

After completing the laying of plywood sheets, its surface is sanded, then the dust and dirt formed during sanding are completely removed. Before installing the boards, primer is applied, after which the floorboard is fastened. Then again sanding, processing with varnish, paint or oil.

Wood floor technology

Before laying wooden floors in rooms, you should consider the following nuances:

• even after special treatment, wood is not recommended for use in rooms with high humidity;
• By analogy with a log house, the floor covering will inevitably shrink, so not all the boards are fastened in a row, but only in the first, every fourth and last row;
• after 6 - 12 months, the covering is sorted out, the gaps between the floorboards are eliminated by repeated tightening, bent and warped boards are replaced with new ones.

The easiest way to treat lumber in a wooden house is to treat it with a fire retardant and antiseptic before laying it, and then just saturate the cut areas when cutting it. For the convenience of developers, manufacturers produce colored fire-bioprotection so that the surface is evenly treated with a protective composition.

Laying scheme

Rows of tongue and groove boards are placed across the beams or joists. In wooden floor structures, there is no choice of orientation of the floorboards relative to window and door openings. On reinforced concrete slabs, logs can be oriented in any direction.

• in complex projects the rooms have an original configuration;
• During construction, mistakes are made, due to which opposite walls are not parallel to each other;
• If you can choose the orientation of the floorboards, it is better to place them with their ends facing non-parallel walls.

Sheet pile layout diagram.

Advice! It is not recommended to use a diagonal layout of tongue and groove boards. Otherwise, when joining after 6 - 12 months, to eliminate cracks from shrinkage of lumber, the floorboards in each row will have to be cut near the walls.

Installation of tongue and groove boards

To lay a wooden floor from profiled tongue and groove, you need to perform the following sequence of actions:

• first row - it is necessary to use a solid board without splicing along the length, ensure a gap between the wall and the flooring of 2 cm, fastening with nails/screws is mandatory, the ridge is cut off, the groove is directed away from the wall;
• the next 4 - 5 rows can be spliced ​​along the length, the floorboards are joined together with a locking joint, they are not fixed to the joists/beams;
• 5 – 6 row – it is advisable to use a solid floorboard, which is attached with self-tapping screws/nails to the joists or beams;
• next rows - the operation is repeated until there remains an area smaller than the width of the board;
• the last row is cut in width taking into account the size of the locking connection and ensuring a gap of 2 cm at the wall.

Clamps, jacks or wedges are used for bonding. Gaps between floorboards are not allowed. Boards with a standard width of 6.4 - 14 cm are fastened on one side, with a wider board - on both sides along the width of the floorboard. Fastening is carried out through the head of the nail/screw or at 45 degrees into the groove. In the latter case, the maintainability of the floor covering sharply decreases.

Since the laid tongue and groove will inevitably have to be additionally bonded after six months to a year of drying out, during initial installation it is better to fasten it vertically, and during final installation after a specified period - in a lock at 45 degrees. In 85% of cases, the tongue and groove is painted, less often it is opened with two layers of varnish.

Options for fixing tongue and groove to joists.

Read more about the nuances of flooring tongue and groove boards here.

Thus, in a private house, it is possible to lay plank flooring from sheet piles, both on beams and on floor slabs. All work can be done independently; no professional equipment or tools are required.

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Important Tips

Scheme for fastening floor boards with screws
Whatever types of fasteners are used to fix the floorboards, during the installation process it is simply necessary to take into account the following points:

1. The distance between nails (screws) during fastening of boards should be 25 cm;
2. The floorboards should be pulled together as much as possible, but a technological gap of 20 mm should be left between the boards and the walls in case the wood expands;
3. When using non-galvanized fasteners, it is advisable to “recess” their heads into the wood, and then lubricate them with silicone or sealant.

Methods for tightening floorboards

An example of tightening using a clamp and wedges.
Which device is best to use for tightening boards? To prevent gaps from appearing between the floorboards during operation, even at the stage of their installation you need to take care of the high-quality tightening of the boards. Which tool is suitable for these purposes?

What methods are there for joining floor boards together?

• Wooden wedges. A wooden block is placed at a right angle to the board, after which it is tapped to the already fixed floorboards using a hammer;
• Clamps. In this case, the clamp plays the role of a spacer. A block is temporarily attached to the joists, against which the tool “rests,” creating sufficient pressure to press the floorboard against the adjacent plank;
• Jack. This tool, like the previous one, is installed between the bars nailed to the joists, which allows you to create sufficient pressure to tighten the boards on the floor.

Also, for high-quality tightening of planks, the following can be used:

• mount;
• metal staples;
• bowrench.

Features of screws with a cutter

An example of a wood screw with a drill at the end.
In the process of fixing the floorboards to the base with nails, a hole is first drilled in the wood. This way you can prevent the boards from cracking. The procedure for covering subfloors with wood can be simplified by using special screws with a cutter at the end.

Their advantages include:

• Presence of a protective layer. Fastening elements can be safely used for cladding the car body and open areas. They have a protective layer that prevents the metal from oxidizing even in direct contact with water;
• The presence of a milled tip. The screws are made with a milled edge, which allows them to be easily screwed into wood without first drilling a hole;
• Lack of threads in the area near the “cap”. Self-tapping screws do not have threaded threads near the head, which ensures a more durable tightening of floorboards with joists.