How to impregnate the lower rims of the bathhouse

The lower crown of a timber frame requires increased attention, since it will be closest to the soil, and it is this part that is exposed to the most frequent contact with moisture. It is installed directly on the foundation of the future building, so it will come into contact with an aggressive environment that can cause rapid rotting of the wood. There are special methods of protection from moisture to avoid premature destruction of the lower crowns of the log house.

How to apply impregnation correctly

Before applying any product, the surface is thoroughly cleaned and, if necessary, sanded.
High-quality finishing of the walls and ceiling with wooden lining, and the floor with boards will increase the service life of the bathhouse. In addition, it will give the room a neat, finished appearance. However, the lining, the floorboard, and other finishing materials still need to be covered with protective agents. How to carry out interior decoration of a bathhouse or sauna, read here. Varnish, oil or other product is applied in several layers using a roller. Difficult areas in the corners and between the crowns are treated with a brush. Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried! When using oil, remove excess product before drying. Such processing should be carried out every 4-10 years, depending on the type of materials and the quality of work. To get long-term and reliable results, turn to professionals!

“MariSrub” craftsmen will select high-quality and reliable impregnations and quickly and reliably process the bathhouse. We provide a full range of services. It includes the design and construction of a bathhouse or house with a foundation and roof, production of lumber for the project, installation and connection of utility networks, and complex finishing. We offer insulation and waterproofing of baths, protective treatment of materials in several stages! We guarantee high quality work and strict adherence to deadlines.

Using modern tools

When choosing how to treat the lower crown of a bathhouse or home, it makes sense to consider the advantages of specialized products offered by modern manufacturers. Popular options include:

Antiseptics for wood. Specialized impregnations penetrate deep into the wood and resist rotting and damage by wood-boring insects. Antiseptic impregnations do not interfere with further treating the wood with a fire retardant, which creates a non-flammable film on the surface, covering the wood with stain and varnish, or painting it.
Fire-retardant compounds. Universal impregnation simultaneously protects wood from biological damage and fire. Does not change the color of wood, does not impair the gas permeability of the material. Also allows you to paint or varnish the surface of wooden structures.

To treat the lower rims of the bathhouse, the selected product is applied to the structural elements before their installation in order to protect not only the outer surface, but also the joints (locks) in the corners. The protective composition is applied using a spray gun, sponge, roller or brush. Processing is carried out in 2-3 layers, each layer is completely dried. Only after the last layer has dried do they begin to assemble the lower crown of the log house.

When choosing a product, pay attention to the climatic conditions for which it is intended - the composition of the antiseptic varies depending on the operating conditions of the log house. When building in areas with high air humidity, more serious protection is required.

Antiseptics and fire-bioprotective compounds of the Senezh, Belika, and Tikkurila brands are popular. It is recommended to purchase wood processing products from reputable manufacturers and check for a certificate to protect yourself from buying a fake.

Types and applications of solutions

You should not treat all surfaces of the building with the same solution. You should proceed from the proximity of the product coated with the protective composition to the person during the bath. So, for example, when choosing what to treat the lower rims of a bathhouse with, there is no point in overpaying for an expensive and harmless composition, because they do not come into contact with people.

Composition for the lower elements of the bath

Treatment of the sauna base

To sufficiently protect this element of the building, any antiseptics available for sale on the shelves of hardware stores are suitable. Their main task is to protect against mold and pests.

If their price and the unknown quality make you doubt, then you can use the following recipe and prepare the solution yourself:

Heat the bitumen in a bucket until it boils.

Bitumen should be heated until it boils completely.

Remove the bucket and set it away from the fire.
Mixing thoroughly, pour diesel fuel until a black liquid mass is obtained in a cold state.
The result is an inexpensive and excellent antiseptic, which is the best answer to the question of how to treat the lower crown of the bathhouse.

This homemade solution is also perfect for treating logs in a bathhouse. Because the underground is also not a bath element in contact with people, but is often located in increased dampness.

Wall treatment

Coating the timber with an antiseptic

In the case of interior wall decoration, you must remember that while visiting the steam room you will have to breathe what you treated them with.

The most common and trustworthy are:

Antiseptic “Sauna”, made on an acrylic base. Creates a transparent polymer layer that:
Eliminates pathogenic microorganisms common in everyday life that cause infectious diseases in the human body.
Improves the aesthetic appearance of wood surfaces.

Sample of water-based antiseptic

Natura. Creates a translucent water-repellent coating for wood. There is a possibility of tinting with a wide range of shades.

Now you know how to treat the walls in a bathhouse without fear of subsequent poisoning.

Shelf processing

Shelves coated with a protective layer

The peculiarity of shelves and benches for a bath is that they are touched by human skin. Consequently, when a polymer layer appears on them, there is a risk of burns. This leads to the need to use solutions that are well absorbed into the wood pores.

These include such oil compositions as:

Sauna Natura;
Supi Laudesuoja;
Eurotex "Sauna".

General provisions

Many people believe that correct installation of all building elements, proper ventilation and the use of only high-quality tree species can prevent adverse effects on the walls of the steam room. And this is better than treating the walls in the bathhouse with some kind of antiseptic, since there will be no danger of the enzymes in the solution evaporating into the air at high temperatures.

Do-it-yourself ventilation arrangement

Absolutely right. Good air movement can overcome dampness in the bathhouse and prevent mold and fungi from developing from the inside. But this is not the only problem.

The effect of “warping” of boards due to constant exposure to high temperatures. The most vulnerable finishes are on the ceiling and near the stove.
Darkening and contamination of the wood surface with frequent use, making the interior look like the inside of a “black” bathhouse. This is especially true for shelves.

Type of “black” bath

Pest attack. External timber walls are also susceptible to this.
Stagnation of dampness in the absence of ventilation or an error in its design.

Thus, we can come to the conclusion that processing is still necessary in most cases. It will definitely be able to extend the life not only of the interior lining of the bathhouse, but also of the wooden walls outside the building.

Moreover, current solutions:

Environmentally friendly even at very high temperatures.
Heat resistant.
Excellent protection from dirt.
Drive away possible pests.
Increases the strength of the material.

Let's consider the recommended compositions for various elements of baths and saunas.

The lower crowns of a log house: we design and build correctly

The beginning of the construction of a log house must comply with the classical requirements of construction: before laying the lower crown on the strip foundation, it is necessary to lay roofing felt with bitumen impregnation. It will serve as waterproofing between the foundation and the logs; For the frame crown, it is recommended to choose larger logs than others. It is better to use wood that is least susceptible to rotting. Tying the crowns of a log house involves placing two opposite logs on the bottom, and the other two on top. This laying scheme also applies to the first crown.

The result is an arrangement of perpendicular sides at different levels. If the lower logs of the first crown lie directly on the roofing material and are pressed tightly against the foundation due to slight compression, then the upper ones form a gap the size of which is half their diameter. You can prevent rotting during this installation if:

coat the surfaces of the lower logs that have been hewn by 4–5 cm with a protective agent;
lay a compactor between the foundation and the adjacent logs; moss, tow or jute are usually used;
fill the gaps between the foundation and the top logs of the crown with bricks, timber or halves of logs. Also close all joints with moss or other sealants.

The problem of the formation of large gaps between the upper logs and the surface of the foundation can be solved in other ways: 1. By making a foundation, the perpendicular sides of which are located at different levels. With this method, the rim logs require minimal processing, which ensures their integrity, so they can last longer. 2. By cutting off the lower logs by half, and the upper ones by 4-5 cm. This ensures a tight fit of the lower crown to the surface of the foundation.

At the corners, the logs are joined by notching into a joint, when notches are made at the top and bottom. To protect against rotting, in this case, all hewn surfaces must be carefully treated with an antiseptic and other protective agents. To reduce the effect of moisture, frame timber or boards pre-treated with protective materials can be laid under the lower crowns.

This will not only help further protect them from rotting, but will also make updating easier, since rotten boards are easier to replace than crown logs.

Coat and close correctly - as an additional or next treatment

The long-term preservation of the lower crowns of the log house is not only ensured by the correct protective coating, but also by preventive additional treatment of them during operation, as well as the creation of a metal canopy over them. The effectiveness of their protection also largely depends on the reliable waterproofing of the crowns from the foundation.

To do this, it is better to use high-quality roofing felt with a modified bitumen coating reinforced with glass fiber.

To ensure that the impregnation with protective agents is preserved for a long time, it is recommended to cover the lower logs with a galvanized steel canopy, which will divert streams of rainwater from them. The width of the canopy should ensure that the basement foundation projections are covered. Some builders recommend closing the gaps between the crown and the foundation with foamed macroflex. After it hardens, the excess is cut off, and the foamed joints are covered with wooden blocks - slats. Additionally, they will be protected by a metal visor attached above the lower crown.

MK timber replacement

Our website presents a number of log house projects, for example: Or you can see all prices for log houses. You can calculate the house or bathhouse you need with maximum accuracy using our log house cost calculator. To order and buy a log house, call:

Vologda
Moscow,

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Tools for replacing lower crowns

The bathhouse can be raised above the base using jacks

What exactly is required for replacement depends on the type of repair and the chosen method. The main condition for work is clearing the foundation. The bathhouse must be raised above the base, installed on temporary supports, and then proceed with replacement.

They do this in 2 ways.

Lifting by crane is rarely used, since repairing the lower crown takes a lot of time. This method is used when the box is removed from the foundation and moved to another area until the work is completed.
Lifting with jacks - hydraulic or screw. These devices are placed in the corners of the bathhouse and each corner is raised one by one, placing temporary support under it. The work requires more time, but the box can remain on the supports for as long as desired.

In addition to lifting equipment, you need:

support panels - they help distribute the load;
bars - this is how you adjust the height of the jack;
metal spacers - distribute the load from the moving part of the device.

You also need a shovel, a crowbar, and carpentry tools for processing logs. If the foundation is also damaged, a cement-sand mortar will be required to arrange it.

How to check an old wooden house?

Build quality can be checked

with a needle, for this you need to insert the needle between the logs; if the needle does not go in, then the logs are connected poorly.
Carefully inspect the corners of the house
for leaks. In winter, dampness may appear in the corners, and in warm periods, mold may appear.

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Chemical treatment

A huge number of different impregnations and mastics make novice builders tempted to cover the first crowns of a log or timber house with a thick sealing layer that completely eliminates the circulation of moisture.

The expediency of such an action is very questionable, since complete sealing will lead to the opposite effect - the log will remain stably moist and, as a result, will turn into an excellent incubator for microbiological substances.

But what is really worth doing from the operations of chemical preparation of wood for long-term use is antiseptic treatment, which minimizes the risk of biological contamination of wood.

We recommend not experimenting with the so-called “folk methods of antiseptic treatment (vitriol, old machine oil, etc.)”, since in this case there is always a risk of getting a stable source of carcinogens, emitting them, by the way, not only into the external environment, but and in the underground

In any hardware store today you can purchase inexpensive antiseptics that are certified in government laboratories and have a number of additional useful qualities (for example, almost all antiseptics can be used as a primer before painting).

Among the “ancient” methods of extending the life of the lower crowns of a log house, it is worth mentioning fumigation, which consists of burning logs in an open fire.

The essence of the technique is that when the outer layer of the log is fired, the capillary network of the wood becomes clogged, through which dangerous saturation with moisture occurs

But - what is important - in this case the effect of vapor permeability is preserved, which, by the way, is absent in many polymer sealants

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Price for traditional coatings

You can purchase coverings for the crown of a bathhouse or home at any hardware store or market, and even on the Internet. Be sure to ask the seller to show the certificate for the purchased product. Due to the high popularity of these protective products, counterfeits that are not safe for health have begun to appear on the markets.

It is easy to distinguish a fake from a quality product:

Too low price.
Poor quality packaging.
Lack of accompanying documentation.

For the convenience of readers, we present the average price for coatings in Russia for 2014 in the form of a table:

Brand and name of coating	Weight, kg	price, rub.
"Senezh Ognebio"	5	From 310
	10	From 510
	65	From 3 300
"Belinka Base"	1	From 465
	2,5	From 1,075
	10	From 3 785
Tikkurila paint Vinha	0,9	From 450
	2,7	From 1 800
	9	From 3 670
Tikkurila Valtti-Pohjuste	0,9	From 440
	2,7	From 1 700
	9	From 3 580

As you can see from the table, Senezh will be the most profitable option for processing the first crown of your bathhouse or home. Tikkurila is the most expensive. Quality in this case depends little on the brand. Which treatment of the first crown to use will depend on your purchasing capabilities. Professional products are safer and quality tested.

The lower crown of the bath

The lower crown of the log house is most susceptible to rotting

The lower crown of the bathhouse is most susceptible to moisture. Therefore, it often rots very quickly. The entire frame is still in excellent condition, but it has to be replaced. What to do?

First, let's determine why the lower crown of the bathhouse rots very quickly. The causes of rotting must be determined in order to take a number of protective measures even when assembling a new log house.

The healthy condition of the lower crown is influenced by the following constructive measures when building a wooden house or bathhouse, which must be done without errors:

a waterproofing layer of roofing felt on the surface of the concrete foundation in front of the brickwork of the base. This layer of waterproofing prevents moisture from rising from below and absorbing it into the brick material. Wet brick is not the best basis for the lower log of a log house.
the second waterproofing layer of roofing felt is placed on the upper level of the brickwork of the base. It is the roofing felt that comes into contact with the wood of the lower crown of the log house. This contact must be made correctly.
vents in a brick base or concrete foundation in order to provide natural ventilation in the underground.
to prevent rainwater from getting in and stagnating on the roofing felt (see point 2), it is necessary to make a protective flashing. Its design can be different depending on the chosen material. You can simply cover the joint with a flashing board around the perimeter of the log house. You can make a drain from galvanized steel or buy it ready-made and install it so that it covers the joint and, at the same time, protects the basement part of the bathhouse from rain due to a slight offset from the outer edge of the brickwork. You can make a screed with a slope from cement-sand mortar along the upper edge of the base and stick soft tiles along it.
Treat the lower rims with protective compounds in several layers

The absence of any of the above measures leads to rapid rotting of the casing.

The best way to avoid replacing the lower crowns is to make them from larch. Larch has the ability to harden (turn to stone) even more in the presence of moisture. It is not susceptible to fungi.

If it is not possible to get larch logs and in your region only pine is used for log houses, then you can compromise and find at least a larch board. By placing it under the lower crown, you can solve the problem of replacing the lower crowns in the same way if there were a pair of lower logs made of larch. The option is quite generous in monetary terms.

If you can’t get larch boards, then oak grows everywhere. Oak boards are a good alternative to deciduous boards. In addition, it is easier to replace the board than the lower crown.

Regarding the second point of protective measures: since the waterproofing from the roofing felt layer has a horizontal surface on which the lower log is laid, it is natural that water can stand here in puddles. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that the surface of the roofing material is not horizontal, but has a slight slope to the outer sides to allow water to flow to the ground.

It's very easy to do:

cut narrow strips of roofing felt approximately 5 cm wide
put them 3-4 pieces together
lay these roofing felt strips in the middle of the width of the plinth (or foundation)
on top of them, place a layer of roofing felt slightly wider than the width of the plinth. (Usually a meter-wide roll of roofing felt is cut in half, resulting in a width of 500 mm, which is quite enough for waterproofing along the plinth (or foundation).

These additional soft “pads” will give you the following benefits:

a soft “lining” will close the gaps that have formed between the log and the surface of the plinth due to unevenness of the lower surface of the log itself. In a normal situation, they are either left uncovered and the floor is raised above this joint so that it ends up underground. Or they are plugged with tow, but always from the outside; the joint is sealed with some kind of elastic sealant to prevent the tow from getting wet. This option is not entirely reliable. Better tightness is achieved through a soft “gasket”
since in the middle it will be higher due to 5 layers of roofing material (4 narrow strips and 1 layer of a wide main strip), then the surface of the waterproofing layer will have a slope for water to drain from its surface.

Even with this design of roofing felt waterproofing, it is necessary to cover the lower crown and the upper part of the base with a galvanized or painted steel drain to prevent any moisture from getting under the lower log (see paragraph 4 of protective measures).

Bath impregnation: the right choice

Most people, when choosing a material for a bathhouse, look at wood. The fact is that this material is the most environmentally friendly and at the same time retains heat perfectly. At the same time, there is a special impregnation of wood for baths, which can provide the material with additional qualities and significantly increase its service life.

The process of treating a bath with a special composition

Properties of protective materials

Amateur photo of a special material designed specifically for baths, saunas and rooms with high humidity

First of all, it should be noted that these compositions have a number of features. At the same time, standard impregnation of a bathhouse for shelves usually only protects the surface from moisture, although experts advise choosing materials with enhanced properties.

Effects of moisture on wood

Types of impacts

The most important factor that affects wood in a bathhouse is humidity. It causes the material to rot and quickly collapse.
Also, as a result of dampness, fungus or mold may appear on the surface of the bathhouse. That is why bath floor impregnation usually contains antibacterial substances. They are able to destroy existing deposits and prevent the formation of new deposits.

A fungus harmful to the human body that forms on unprotected wooden surfaces

Special attention is paid to protection from harmful insects. The fact is that parasites that feed on wood have access to the material from the outside, so the material must be protected from them.
It is worth noting that the bathhouse is a structure in which high temperatures and open fire are constantly present. That is why wood, as a substance susceptible to fire, must be protected. However, it is worth noting that the price of compositions with fire-fighting properties is quite high, which means that they should only be used to treat those areas that are most susceptible to this effect.

Advice! Professional craftsmen recommend using such impregnations for baths and saunas, which can provide comprehensive protection. This solution will be the most practical and will even save money.

Appearance of wood damaged by insects

Surface application

All manuals that tell you how to impregnate the inside of a bathhouse, first of all, involve mechanical processing of the material. The fact is that this way the surface will get rid of the fleecy structure, which will absorb all the moisture and significantly increase consumption.
Typically, the installation instructions suggest using sandpaper with a fine corundum fraction for pre-treatment. However, to make the work easier, it is worth using special grinders or drill attachments.

Sanding wood allows you to get rid of the fleecy structure

At the next stage, the surface is covered with a uniform layer of the selected material. This is done with your own hands, using a paint brush or roller as a tool.
It is worth noting that for such work, liquid compositions with high fluidity are used.

Material that protects wood from fire

The fact that impregnation for log bathhouses is most often made colorless also deserves special attention. That is why, when working in a room with poor lighting, it is difficult to determine where the treated surface is and where the raw wood is.
Given these features, bath impregnation is often mixed with a small amount of dye. It will give the surface a certain contrast and help distinguish the treated areas.

After the composition has dried, it is quite difficult to distinguish the treated surface from ordinary wood.

It must be taken into account that in this type of room there is always a high temperature. Therefore, many manuals that talk about how to impregnate a log bathhouse recommend selecting compositions that do not emit harmful substances when heated. On the packaging of some materials there are special notes indicating that they are designed specifically for these buildings.
If the question arises about how to impregnate the lower crown of the bathhouse, the best option would be to use ordinary bitumen or mastic based on it. The fact is that it is considered the most reliable protection, although it does not have a very good appearance.

To facilitate the process of applying the composition to the surface, you should use a sprayer, and in small areas you can use a brush or roller

It is worth noting that professional craftsmen recommend using the same material when asked how to impregnate the floor in a bathhouse sink. However, it is worth creating a topcoat or laying pallets.

Advice! Surfaces that do not have direct contact with water can be treated once, while in a wash room several layers should be used.

By adding a dye to the impregnation composition, you can give the final product a certain color, emphasizing its structure

It should be remembered that complex impregnation for wood in a bathhouse is much more effective, since it immediately solves a lot of problems. However, sometimes, given the high consumption, its use can become very wasteful.

Choosing wood for the bottom trim and first crown

The question of choosing a tree is quite simple - it is larch. Anyone who can afford to make the lower crown of a country house from this tree will be spared from further problems with its durability. The fact is that larch, even being completely in water, only becomes stronger over time. Even the builders of Venice knew about this property of larch. The piles of the houses of this city, which is almost entirely in water, are made of larch and have been in service for hundreds of years.

Rules for the design and processing of the lower trim and the first crown

If you cannot find larch for laying the first crown of a garden house, then for other types of wood you should pay attention to the basic rules for constructing a crown and its processing, which include the following

waterproofing from the foundation;
cutting off atmospheric moisture using tides;
surface treatment with antiseptic preparations;
end processing.

Waterproofing the foundation is half the success

One of the main requirements when laying the first log or beam on the foundation of a garden, country house or bathhouse is waterproofing this log from the top of the foundation. Usually builders use roofing felt for this purpose, but its service life does not exceed 5 years and the durability of the lower log or timber with such insulation raises reasonable doubts. The best option for this purpose would be Technoelast or Uniflex, or their more economical option - Bikrost. The service life of these multilayer coatings far exceeds the service life of roofing felt.

The second task facing house builders is to cut off atmospheric moisture directly from the point where the lower log or beam touches the foundation. If such measures are not taken, waterproofing the log from the foundation simply loses its meaning. Solving this problem does not pose any difficulties; it is enough to install wide ebbs along the entire perimeter of the country house or bathhouse.

Let us separately dwell on the habit of many builders of placing moss under the lower crown. Its antiseptic properties have been known for a long time and it seems that its use in this case is justified. However, this overlooks the tubular structure of moss and its ability to absorb moisture from the atmosphere during rainy periods of the year. The author sees that this property negates its positive qualities, and the use of moss for additional insulation of a log or beam from the foundation does not seem entirely justified.

Answers from experts

coat with working oil...

I exclusively use synthetic Mobil 1 5w 30

With the use of high-quality waterproofing, the issue of rotting of the lower crowns has not ceased to be relevant. Waterproofing cuts off moisture from hygroscopic concrete, but is itself a source of condensation. Moreover, this amount is enough to feed a favorable environment for wood fungus. Condensation forms at the boundary between the waterproofing and the lower crown. I called this place the condensation zone. First, I decided to put technical cork with a density of 260 kg/m2 on the waterproofing. cube 10 mm thick. This is what I did when building my house. I think the problem has been solved, but I was haunted by the thought that this was a bit of a hassle. Many are beginning to doubt the strength of cork, although this density can withstand deformation loads of about 70 tons per square meter. meter, shrinking by only 10%. And it is not easy to find such a specific product in every region. And then I came up with an idea that was close to “brilliant”: to use improvised material. This material is nothing more than bakelite plywood, which is used as formwork in monolithic construction. This plywood is a unique material that combines the qualities of both wood and plastic. The thermal conductivity of bakelite is comparable to larch, and the resistance to rotting, thanks to bakelite varnish, is no worse than that of plastic. So, we put a strip of bakelite plywood on the waterproofing; used ones will do; you can get them from monolithic manufacturers, narrow scraps of which are plentiful at every construction site. It is advisable that the edge of the plywood on the outside of the frame does not protrude. This measure reduces the possibility of rain falling between the plywood and the crown. That's basically it! I moved the condensation zone to the area between the waterproofing and the non-rotting bakelite. And since the heat capacity of plywood is not much lower than pine, the formation of condensation between them is practically impossible. For complete peace of mind, you can put one layer of technical cork on top of the bakelite, which is used as a backing for the laminate. I assure you that such a simple solution to the “eternal problem” will extend the life of your log house many times over. You and your descendants will not need to change the lower crowns in 30-40 years. By the way, the same technique can be used in frame construction and wherever wood is used. Good luck to you in everything!

it is not necessary to process them, just eliminate moisture from entering the crown and arrange normal ventilation inside the washing room. on the house and dacha forum there are sections about bathhouses, the guys there describe everything coolly, although you can always argue

I treated it with Senezh...how it holds up only time will tell, but in general there are a lot of opinions...to understand you have to be a construction chemist.... It seems to me that sometimes we overpay simply for beautiful packaging and for advertising... the main thing for wood is ventilation and lack of moisture.... there is a website on antiseptics...forumhouse /forum219/ you enter antiseptics in the search and see everything you need

How to prevent rotting

The main cause of rotting is construction errors. If they are allowed, then even industrial impregnation will not provide reliable protection against rot and mold. During construction it is necessary to provide:

Drainage of water from the foundation. Water should not accumulate under the floor or near the bath; a good drainage system is required.

Water should not accumulate near the bathhouseSource vodolov.ru

Ventilation holes. Vents will prevent moisture from accumulating. To prevent heat from escaping through them, they are closed during washing.
Window in the washing room and steam room, wide doors. Through them you can quickly release accumulated steam after washing.
Quality of materials. A tree without cracks, chips, or signs of rot will remain healthy longer.
Oven size. It must match the size of the bath. A stove that is too small will not provide the required temperature in the steam room, but will create a humid and warm environment in the corners and under the floor.
Quality of flooring. If the boards fit tightly, water will not be able to get under the floor.
Distance from shelves to walls. There should be no gaps between them; this is a direct path to sources of rot.

The bathhouse should be regularly ventilated and cleaned using chlorine cleaners, and the boards should be inspected for rotten areas. This will ensure maximum safety of wooden structures.

This video shows how to clean a sauna perfectly.

Complete replacement of the lower crowns

Major repairs in the form of a complete replacement of the lower crowns include raising the frame, removing rotten logs and installing new crowns. The work is carried out in the following order: preparatory activities, replacement of the lower crowns and beams.

Preparatory activities:

maximum lightening of the entire structure (removal of furniture and plumbing, removal of doors and windows, dismantling of the floor and roofing);
dismantling stoves and fireplaces if they do not have their own independent foundation;
separation of the chimney from the ceiling and roof, if the stove is not dismantled;
disconnecting floor joists if they are embedded in the lower crowns to be replaced;
shutting down all communications.

To secure the crowns along the entire perimeter of the house, boards with a thickness of at least 3 cm are nailed vertically at a distance of 45-60 cm from each other. You can fasten adjacent crowns using metal staples. Fastening is provided on both sides of the wall (outside and inside).

To lift the log house at a distance of 60-80 cm from the corner of the building, an opening 35-45 cm wide is made in the foundation and part of the logs is cut out to form a niche for installing a jack. The following lifting technology can be used:

With one jack. Each corner is raised in turn.
Using 2 jacks. First, one wall is raised completely, and after it is fixed, the opposite one.
On 4 jacks. The entire frame rises at once. This method eliminates damage to the frame, but requires coordination of the operation of the devices.

After raising the corner of the log house to a height sufficient to remove one log, a support is placed under the first crown, which cannot be replaced, mounted on 2 posts. This way the frame is fixed at all lifting points, and the jack is removed.

Unusable logs are knocked off the nigels and removed outside. Then new logs are installed. They are immediately held together with nigels. A jack is again placed under the lower crown, which is used to compact the new logs.

Before completing the work, the foundation is repaired if necessary, the waterproofing between the base and the base is restored, and a new filling element is installed. After this, using jacks, the frame is slowly lowered to its original place, secured with pins.

After the log house is completely lowered, all the cracks between the logs are caulked with moss, tow or jute. The thermal and waterproofing of the base is restored.

Decorative treatment of the house outside

Decorative treatment of the house emphasizes its architectural features and gives the building an individual look. Homeowners choose their own decoration methods and style or use ready-made solutions. The main methods of decorating the outside of a house include: painting, oiling, waxing and decorative tinting.

Painting a timber house

The price lists of leading manufacturers often note that decorative treatments provide reliable bio- and fire protection, but this does not mean that special protective impregnations can be abandoned. The protective functions of decorative treatments are less effective; they do not provide full protection of wooden buildings from the outside and can be considered as additional protective agents.

Types of protective compounds and requirements for them

It should be immediately noted that after treating the walls with a protective composition, the appearance of the building should not deteriorate

It is important that the wood retains its natural appeal. The protective layer should not negatively affect the technical characteristics of the wood - air permeability should remain at the same level

Also, the protective layer must ensure that the wood can withstand atmospheric influences (precipitation, sunlight, temperature changes), fire and insect pests.

Treatment with impregnations allows you to reveal and emphasize the wood grain

All these issues cannot be solved only by treating the walls with antiseptic compounds. Only comprehensive treatment will help. Using the following means:

Antiseptics that prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.
Fire retardants, which increase the fire resistance of wood. During processing, the substance penetrates the top layer of wood and is released when the surface is heated, forming a protective film.
With the help of varnishes and paints, wood can be protected from atmospheric moisture and sun. To preserve the wood texture and shade, it is recommended to use colorless compounds. Sometimes a colored pigment can be added to enhance the tone of the wood.

The use of protective compounds and coatings allows you to preserve a wooden frame in its original form and extend the service life of structures. There is no other way to preserve the shade and texture of wood. Painting with alkyd compounds and varnishing is only a temporary measure. At the same time, the “breathing” ability of wood with repeated staining is significantly reduced.

The treatment of bath walls is carried out in stages:

First, the walls need to be prepared - clean and sand the outer layer. At this stage, the damaged wood is removed, the surface becomes smooth - this will allow the impregnation to be applied evenly and ensure its maximum penetration into the structure of the material.
Then the walls are completely treated with protective compounds several times. Each layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.
The last layer is designed to protect the wood from external influences (paint, varnish, stain).

Initially, the logs from which the bathhouse will be built are treated with protective compounds - antiseptics. When the log dries to the optimal moisture content, substances are applied to its ends that prevent deformation and cracking of the natural building material.

Primary processing is carried out at the stage of assembly of the structure

It is a mistake to think that this processing is sufficient. Indeed, during the construction process, logs or beams are subject to adjustment and trimming, so the finished structure also needs careful processing.

But these are only theoretical recommendations. In fact, the protective layer weakens much faster and this depends on the climatic characteristics of the construction region.

Pest Control Materials

When trying to prevent a log house from rotting from moisture, one should not forget about protecting it from various pests that threaten the integrity of the crowns. If the logs of the log house were prepared or stored incorrectly, various insects can settle in them: bark beetles, weevils and other small creatures that can turn the logs into dust.

It is considered correct to use material for the log house prepared in winter. Then you can count on the absence of bugs and their larvae in the wood. Before processing, the prepared material must be well dried. There are special antiseptics on sale that are designed to protect against mold and fungi, containing chemicals - fungicides and more modern biocides, which are poisonous to beetles and other wood pests. Known effective products containing fungicides are:

products: Neomid 400, 450, 500;
impregnations Prosept Exterior, Prosept Interior, ;
drugs produced by;
drug "Bioshield - 2";
drug "Sagus".

Harvested wood must be treated after drying with one of the products containing fungicides, or directly with a fungicide.

Wood processing with folk remedies

When figuring out how to treat the lower crown of a wooden house or bathhouse, pay attention to folk remedies that have become classic. Their advantages include relatively low cost

However, some processing options cannot be called safe.

1. Copper sulfate. Used for logs with natural moisture. The log for the lower crown is installed on the end, strictly vertically. A rag soaked generously in a solution of copper sulfate is placed on the upper end and covered with a plastic bag. The cloth should be moistened regularly. After some time, the solution of copper sulfate will pass through the capillaries of the wood (this will be helped by the flow of sap in a freshly cut log) and will saturate the log through and through. This can be easily checked by examining the bottom end. Copper sulfate cannot be used to treat the crowns of bathhouses and saunas - when heated, it releases toxic substances that are dangerous to human health.

2. Finnish way. This is how wood structures were traditionally protected in northern Europe, including the lower crowns and the back of the floor in saunas. To make the mixture you will need 800 g of flour (any type), 1.5 kg of slaked lime and copper sulfate, 400 g of table salt. At the first stage, flour is stirred in water, achieving the consistency of sour cream, five liters of heated, but not boiling water are poured in, stirred and filtered. Then the resulting substance is heated and salt, vitriol and, lastly, slaked lime are added. The mounted lower crown is coated with the resulting composition twice with intermediate drying. Such protection will protect the wood from rotting for 10-15 years.

3. Logs or beams of the lower crown are impregnated with oil and propolis. Then thoroughly rub with natural wax. This is a labor-intensive and expensive processing option, but has proven itself over many generations.

4. If construction is carried out from coniferous wood, spruce resin (resin), as well as birch tar, are suitable for processing the elements of the lower crown. The advantage is protection not only from rotting, but also from damage by insects; the disadvantages include:

unpleasant smell of tar and stickiness of resin;
impossibility of grinding rims;
inability to subsequently paint or varnish the treated surface with wood;
fire hazard – tar and resin are flammable substances.

Typically, only the surface of the crown in contact with the foundation or ground is treated with tar or resin.

5. Tar, bitumen. The resin is heated, mixed with diesel fuel, and the resulting composition is coated with the elements of the lower crown. The reliability of the protective layer has led to the fact that today manufacturers offer a wide range of bitumen-based impregnations and mastics.

6. Drying oil and various types of oils. They protect wood well from moisture. Before application, it is recommended to heat the material to increase fluidity. Processing in several layers with intermediate drying will increase the reliability of the result.

7. Workout. Treating the crowns with used motor oil is a cheap and easy option. Mineral oils are an effective water repellent, and the soot contained in motor oils serves as an antiseptic. The composition is applied heated in several layers, and the previous layer should be allowed to absorb well. The disadvantages include unevenness and insufficiently high quality of impregnation, as well as the unattractive appearance of the treated logs. They cannot be painted in the future.

8. Firing with open fire. An ancient way to protect wood from rotting is to roast (“fumigate”) logs over a fire. This is where the name “hut on chicken legs” came from. Carefully scorch the timber or log using a blowtorch - the burnt layer will clog the capillaries through which moisture could enter the wood.

How to treat a wooden bath

A wooden log house retains its performance qualities for a long time if the beams are promptly protected from adverse factors. Let's consider the main reasons for damage to bathhouse walls and ways to protect the building.

Application Features
To protect the log house from destructive factors, you should not use all the preparations at once and indiscriminately. Each product has its own purpose; if used incorrectly, the condition of the walls can worsen.

Purpose of protective materials for a wooden bath

Modern preparations are able to protect the log bathhouse from all kinds of natural and physical influences:

UV protection
. Always protect the tree from the sun's ultraviolet rays. The sun's rays burn out natural resins in logs and destroy the structure of the wood. The material ages and becomes gray. To treat a log bathhouse, use compounds that create an ultraviolet filter. Containers with such impregnation are marked with the “UV” symbol.
Fireproof impregnation
. To prevent the wooden structure from burning, the logs are impregnated with special substances - fire retardants. After treatment, the wood will not ignite from a cigarette butt or spark. Cans of fire retardants are marked with a picture of fire.
Moisture protection
. Water is considered the main enemy of wood. When exposed to water or snow, wood rots, especially the lower parts of the walls. To protect the logs, they are impregnated with special compounds that protect the walls for 10 years.
Antiseptic impregnation
. Wood can be destroyed by molds, mosses and other microorganisms. It is very difficult to remove fungi, and they will ruin the appearance of the log forever. Microorganisms are disinfected with antiseptic impregnations. Products containing beeswax have proven well.
Insect protection
. Wood-boring beetles, bark beetles and weevils infest logs, which can turn a wooden structure into dust. Biocides are used to kill insects. The product can be recognized by the image of a beetle on the label.

Types of protective coatings for wooden baths

The products intended for impregnation of a log bathhouse are quite varied. They are divided into drugs for internal and external use. Let's take a closer look at their features.

Products for internal treatment of wooden baths

Preparations for interior walls are recognized by the inscription “For sauna”. High-quality products can be bought in the company store. Let's consider how to treat the inside of a wooden bathhouse:

The walls of the log house in the steam room and washing room are treated with special substances on a natural basis without artificial additives, which do not emit toxic fumes at high temperatures and humidity. Such preparations belong to the highest degree of environmental safety.
For interior work, use Teknowax 1160 - a special wax for baths. The substance is odorless, without toxic elements. After application, it forms a smooth film on the wall that does not allow liquid and steam to pass through and can withstand high temperatures. They produce two types of bath wax - transparent and whitish. Transparent retains the wood texture. White wax visually expands the room. The product can be used to cover walls in the steam room, washing room and other areas of the bathhouse.
To treat logs in the dressing room and rest room, you can use harmless products that do not cause allergic reactions. Such preparations include Teknocoat Aqua 2550. This is a water-borne acrylic varnish that forms a protective film on the wall. The film is elastic and washes well.

Products for external treatment of wooden baths

Coatings used to protect the outside of a bathhouse are divided into impregnations and varnishes. Let's find out how to treat the outside of a wooden bathhouse:

Impregnations can protect wood from ultraviolet radiation, but cannot withstand precipitation. Water washes away protective substances from wood, the sun burns bald spots on it, as a result, the appearance deteriorates, and the logs quickly deteriorate. Impregnations protect wood for 5 years. Therefore, it is necessary to re-coat the walls with protective substances.
When walls are varnished, an indelible film remains on the wood, protecting the building from moisture and ultraviolet radiation. Before treating a wooden bathhouse with varnish, inquire about the properties of the protective film it creates. If it is too rigid, it can tear and crumble when the structure shrinks or the natural expansion of the wood. For outdoor work, purchase varnishes that create an elastic film. Therefore, it is not recommended to cover the outside of the bathhouse with yacht varnish.
For exterior use, it is recommended to use Aquatop 2920-04 varnish, which creates an elastic coating. The protection will last 15 years.
Also, high-quality protective materials for wooden external walls are produced by well-known foreign companies Tikkurila, Pinotex, Remmers.
Among domestic products, we can offer products from manufacturers Senezh, Aquatex, Rogneda.
You can also use ancient means to protect log houses. The most famous are drying oil from vegetable oils, tar and tar from charcoal. True, the appearance of the building will deteriorate slightly.
Instead of varnish, the walls of the bathhouse can be painted on the outside. Paint is chosen according to a similar principle - to retain water and ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, the darker the color, the better the protection. Apply paint in several layers.

Method #1. Replacing the lower crowns in parts

There are situations when the logs in a log house are partially damaged and do not need complete replacement. In this case, it is enough to remove the rotten area by putting in its place a “patch” made of wood, brick or other materials.

The technology for partial replacement of the lower crowns is carried out according to the following scheme:

The affected area is cleared of external cladding (siding, lining, etc.).
Determine the boundaries of rotten wood, mark them with a chisel or knife.
They retreat from the intended boundaries 40 cm in both directions and install screeds. They are necessary so as not to damage the structure during the removal of rotten wood fabric. For screeding, use bars 40 mm thick and 2-3 crowns high. They are fixed on both sides of the wall, on the sides of the damaged area (4 bars in total). Ties are required if a significant part of the crown is to be removed at a time. For small replacements they are rarely used.
Cut out the rotten part of the log with an electric or chainsaw. First, a through cut is made on one side of the damaged area, then on the other. The sawn part is removed. For a tighter fit of the insert, notches about 20 cm wide are made along the edges of the opening.
The opened lower part of the second crown is cleaned and leveled to a flat state (with a chisel). It and the side walls of the resulting opening are treated with an antiseptic.
Roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 - 3 layers.
An insert is made to cover the opening. A section is cut from a log of the same diameter as the logs being repaired. The length should be 1 - 2 mm less than the size of the opening. The insert is treated with an antiseptic.
Install the insert into the opening and, if necessary, hammer it in with a sledgehammer.
The gaps between the frame and the insert are carefully sealed with moss, tow, and jute.

Using this method, you can replace not only damaged logs, but also the entire lower crown. To do this, parts are gradually cut off from the crown, replacing them with new ones. The process is quite painstaking, but it allows you to do without lifting the log house on jacks.

You can also replace the lower crown with brickwork. In this case, parts of the damaged log are cut out sequentially, and bricks are laid on the mortar in the resulting openings. Gradually, brickwork will replace the entire lower crown.

Best answers

either resin or alifa or all together

Nothing. Even remove all the garbage under the bathhouse and sprinkle it with river sand.

Yes, there is a lot of chemicals now, choose for yourself when in the city. on my foundation. and everything is fine.

I would risk working out..

if your lower crown lies on a foundation with a layer of ruburoid laid, then you don’t need anything, if it’s just on the ground, then dig, one by one, and coat with bitumen primer

I have had my own bathhouse for more than 20 years, and not only the lower ones, but the whole one is soaked in waste and in several layers, it is not sheathed with anything either outside or inside, one inconvenience is that dust and fluff stick, but even then the outer covering does not dry out, neither no matter what the smell is, no matter what anyone tells you.... And in Rus', by the way, the first crowns were laid on birch bark, and not on roofing felt (and by the way it didn’t exist then), and if the first ones were cut down from larch…. so at least don’t soak it in anything and put it in water - it’ll last for your lifetime and for your grandchildren

Senezh, Rogneda, preservative antiseptics.

When is it necessary to replace the lower crowns?

If a wooden frame house requires major repairs after 50-60 years of operation, then its lower crowns (basement part) may fail much earlier. Accelerated destruction of wood occurs for the following reasons:

Rotting as a result of frequent and prolonged direct contact with sedimentary and flood moisture, the release of groundwater, the accumulation of penetrating moisture and condensation.
Damage by microorganisms (fungi, mold, bacteria), insects (ants, bark beetles, etc.) and various rodent pests.
Destruction under excessive loads.
Mechanical damage of various types.

The following factors contribute to the appearance of these destructions:

Absence or poor quality waterproofing between the foundation and the plinth, as well as on the outside of the lower part of the wall.
An improperly organized drainage system, which causes the accumulation of sedimentary and flood water, as well as moisture formed when snow melts.
Lack of foundation ventilation (vents or vents).
Violations during construction - use of low-quality wood, incorrect choice of log diameter, use of undried wood, insufficient antiseptic treatment and anti-rot impregnation of wooden elements, incorrect calculation of loads, violation of the rules for laying the lower crowns.

Factors of destruction of the first crown

Contact with atmospheric and soil moisture creates a favorable environment for the life of putrefactive bacteria and dozens of varieties of fungi. Even pre-dried wood contains at least 15% moisture; in addition, it will constantly be in a humid environment due to natural factors. Destruction is facilitated by constant temperature changes characteristic of baths and saunas.

Wood is threatened by dozens of types of fungi, including mold, blue fungi, tinder fungi - over time, they can completely destroy the structure of the tree from the inside. In addition, wood is threatened by rodents, wood-boring beetles and other biological factors.