How to paint a bathhouse inside: paint for the steam room and other rooms, painting the ceiling, lining, logs, beams; looking at it from all sides


Briefly about the main thing

To process lining in a bathhouse, materials that are resistant to temperature changes, humidity, and washing are used.
Also important is inertness to fungus, mold, bacteria, and a safe composition for humans. When heated, many materials release toxins and other harmful substances, so the use of antiseptics, fire retardants, drying oils, varnishes with solvents and acrylic resins is unacceptable for the steam room.

For walls and ceilings, impregnations, mastics, oils and some varnishes are used. For shelves only oil or wax based formulations. This prevents the formation of a thick film to avoid burns.

Bleach is used in any room of the bathhouse, but before further processing of the wood, it is necessary to wait until the chlorine evaporates and the hydrogen peroxide decomposes.

Antiseptics and fire retardants are classified as pre-treatment agents for wood, but are not used as independent coatings. They protect the lining and help reduce the consumption of the finishing coating.

Paint for a wooden bath: Which one is better to paint?

Exposure to sunlight, precipitation and temperature changes does not go unnoticed: the frame of the bathhouse cracks, the appearance deteriorates, the wood is affected by fungus, and mold appears. What paint should I use to paint a wooden bathhouse in my country house to protect it from climatic stress and restore its former attractiveness?

To decide what paint to paint a wooden bathhouse at the dacha, it is necessary to take into account not only external factors, but also the functional features of the bathhouse - high humidity and temperature changes, especially large in winter. If you choose the wrong paint, the aging and destruction of wood can accelerate.

Types of coatings

The wood in the bathhouse is coated with paint to reduce exposure to moisture and high temperature.

The steam room and washing room are subject to the greatest load. However, this load is different.

  1. In a sauna, the air temperature can rise to 110°C. However, the humidity here is low. Paint for such a room must withstand heat, but may be sensitive to water.
  2. In the steam room, the humidity is much higher - from 70 to 100%, depending on the type of bath. The temperature is noticeably lower – it rarely rises above 60°C. The finishing material must be resistant to both water and steam and temperature changes.
  3. In the washing room, the temperature is not higher than a comfortable +30°C, but the humidity here can be high - 90–100%. The paint chosen is as waterproof as possible.

In practice, painting the inside of a bathhouse, especially a log house, is not a good idea. Any paint will be less resistant to the above factors than the wood itself. But if there is no other way to protect the finish, they also resort to painting.

Oil impregnations and varnishes

Effect of oil impregnation against moisture

A bathhouse is a structure used with a certain frequency. The high temperature in the steam room is maintained only during the procedure. Then the room is specially ventilated, cooling to a low temperature.

In this mode, the boards are more likely to dry out and become covered with cracks rather than mold and rot. Therefore, oil impregnations and varnishes are best suited for treating the steam room.

The oil penetrates the top layer of the wood, forming not a film, but a structure impenetrable to water. At the same time, the wood continues to expand normally and decrease in volume as the temperature changes. This way the oil prevents cracks from appearing.

Antiseptics for bath floors

The floor in the bathhouse is covered with antiseptic impregnations against rotting.

It is not enough to paint the steam room or sauna in the bathhouse - you need to take care of protection from rotting. The weak link in this room is the floor. Water flows onto it, steam is deposited, and it comes into contact with a cold concrete base or soil. To prevent the wooden floor in the bathhouse from rotting 5-6 years after construction, it must be treated with antiseptic impregnations.

Liquids based on substances that have a disinfecting effect:

  1. Acrylic-based water-based compositions. Moisture-resistant, prevent the growth of fungus, but are not very effective. More suitable for processing the dressing room.
  2. Organic – based on oils. They are better absorbed by wood and are moisture resistant.
  3. Products based on wax and urethane oils are absorbed to great depth. In addition to the water- and dirt-repellent effect, they give the timber and lining velvety and softness.
  4. Combined compositions increase both water resistance and fire safety.

It is strictly forbidden to use compounds that release toxins when drying to treat wood.

Water-dispersed impregnations

Acrylic paints reduce the harmful effects of moisture on wood

You can paint the logs inside the sauna or steam room with water-soluble paints.

The floor and walls in the steam room are painted with water-dispersed acrylic paint. It is quite resistant to temperature changes and does not prevent the penetration of steam. The hiding power is usually low, but the wood can be given any color. The downside is its low durability, the paint washes out quite quickly.

Paint for a bathhouse in a washroom should be as resistant to water as possible. The best products are latex or polyurethane based. For a dressing room or rest room finished with plaster, you can use any compositions marked “for interior decoration.”

The paint forms a film coating on the surface of the wood. And oil compounds penetrate inside, so in the steam room the walls are treated with impregnations.

Wax-based impregnations

Wax paint does not allow moisture to pass through, so it is well suited for baths and saunas

Wax is offered in liquid - viscous composition, and solid. The latter is somewhat more difficult to apply without the habit, but the treatment is carried out less frequently. The product does not create a sticky film and does not attract dirt.

If you only need to protect surfaces from water and steam, wax is more suitable. It is transparent, does not hide the structure of the wood, has some antioxidant activity, and therefore prevents the darkening of the wood.

Water-based polyurethane varnish

This is a kind of resin solution, where water, ethanol, and ether are used as a solvent. For the bath, choose water-soluble varnishes. They are resistant to high temperatures and to acids, oils and salts.

Polyurethane varnish is wear-resistant. Since it is based on water, the varnish layer does not create increased tension on the surface of the wood, and therefore is not prone to cracking. And since the resins polymerize already during drying, there is no subsequent peeling.

Types of paint

Here is a list of some of the leaders in this type of product:

  1. Paint for sauna stoves made of metal “Termal” from Finnish, produced in black or silver from alkyd resin. The coating is guaranteed not to be damaged for 3 years. When the stove surfaces are heated to 2000, the paint completely hardens within 60 minutes. Bottled in containers of 330 g.
  2. Hansa paint has high heat-resistant properties and is available in both aerosol cans and liquid form. Available in 16 shades of color. Does not lose its properties when heated to 8000, can be applied to stainless steel.
  3. One of the best representatives of silicone enamel, which can withstand temperatures up to 6000, is the domestic coating of the Kudo brand. Available in aerosol cans with a capacity of 520 mg.
  4. Paint produced only as a spray coating with heat resistance up to 6500 - “Bosny”. During use it does not crack, does not change color and does not fade. It is used to cover glass, metal and ceramic surfaces. Packaged in 400 mg cans. For glass it is produced with heating temperatures up to 2000.
  5. Hammerite paint protects steel surfaces and can be applied over rust. When preparing, it is not recommended to use gasoline or diesel fuel as solvents. Withstands heating up to 6000. Apply to the surface using a roller and brush in 1 layer, immediately painting the surface of the structure.
  6. ELCON enamel has high anti-corrosion and heat-resistant characteristics. Withstands heating up to 8000 and sudden temperature changes. Available as aerosol paint in 0.5 liter cans and bottles.

The main condition is that heat-resistant paint for a sauna stove should not crack, lose color or decompose under the influence of high temperatures.

Types of premises

Fortunately, there are not many rooms in the bathhouse (in a standard one). Therefore, we will quickly go through the options of what paint to paint the inside of the bathhouse.

Steam room

This is the most problematic room. Many people believe that there is no need to paint anything there at all, but the price for such a decision is rapid darkening of the wood (and almost everyone has a steam room traditionally made of wood or lined with wood), cracking of the wood (this happens more often from poor ventilation during drying), susceptibility to rotting and mold damage (linden and aspen are very unstable species).

So the absence of any protective coatings, on the one hand, should be considered environmentally friendly, and on the other, costly in terms of future repairs.

You can paint the inside of the steam room with both paints and varnishes, but let them be water-soluble paints. And it would be nice if the label mentioning GOST standards stated that this composition is applicable in the steam room.

Washing

Both silicone and acrylic paints are suitable here. In general, everything that patiently endures the effects of moisture.

Other paints will crack and peel off in pieces under constant exposure to water.

ADVICE! Water dispersions do not tolerate frost well: if the water in the paint freezes, then after defrosting it will lose its quality. Therefore, buy them in the warm season, produced recently.

Impregnations and varnishes are also suitable for painting washing areas.

Again we draw your attention to scuba gear

Of course, in the second case, it is better to paint when it is possible to ensure the best ventilation and the absence of people. Don't forget to use respiratory protection.

IMPORTANT! Remember that enamels and alkyd paints are fire hazards, but water-soluble paints are not.

Tools and technologies

The main tools for painting with almost any composition have been and will be the following:

  • brush;
  • roller;
  • spray gun.

In addition, you can buy some types of paints in aerosol cans, but their cost is significantly higher than their counterpart in a can.


Brushes come in different types: from natural bristles, artificial bristles and mixed bristles. All of them are used for applying paints to one or another prepared surface. It is better to apply water-soluble paints using artificial bristle brushes; they do not retain water.

The brush is wetted by a third in the paint, on both sides. After that, the paint is applied to the cleaned surface with short (!) strokes. The direction of the strokes should always be along the grain of the wood.

Rollers are also different:

  • foam;
  • velor;
  • fur;
  • polyamide.

With the exception of foam rubber, all can be used for applying paints on any basis; foam rubber is suitable for water-soluble paints and nothing more.

The spray gun is convenient, but not as accessible as brushes and rollers. You will find varieties for water-soluble and alkyd paints, with an upper or lower location of the tank for the spray composition.

The paint is supplied under air pressure from the compressor, so you must first adjust its viscosity (using a solvent), and then adjust the air supply. This is often done experimentally. First, the maximum spraying is set, the flow of paint is checked - if it falls in the smallest drops, everything is fine, otherwise a solvent is added in an amount of 5% of the volume. Check again.

The air supply is calibrated by the type of drips under the stained spot: if they are at the edges, then the air flow should be reduced, if under the middle of the spot, then increase it.

The paint should be applied evenly, perpendicular to the surface, from a distance of 15 to 25 cm. Overlap the layers, but make sure that the width of the overlap is not more than half of the already painted area.

Requirements for decorative coating

When choosing paint for decorating the interior of a bathhouse, you should take into account that this material must meet the following requirements:

  • protect the wood surface from the effects of aggressive environments that occur in the steam room and dressing room;
  • withstand exposure to high air temperatures;
  • maintain the integrity of wood and extend its service life;
  • provide treated surfaces with an attractive appearance.

Remember that the time during which you can use the bathhouse without major repairs depends on what you paint the inside of the bathhouse with.

In addition, the following factors must be taken into account:

  • the type of wood used;
  • the ability to perform additional coloring;
  • surface condition before treatment.

Special materials should be used for surface treatment

For those craftsmen who have not yet decided how to paint the inside of the bathhouse, it should be noted that most often special varnishes with special properties are used for this purpose:

  1. High coefficient of vapor permeability. This allows you to avoid the appearance of mold, prevents the appearance of fungi and bacteria, and prevents the formation of condensation.
  2. The ability to apply a new layer without cleaning the surface from the previous one.
  3. The presence of pigments that emphasize and highlight the natural texture of the wood with which the steam room and dressing room are decorated.

If you are not satisfied with varnish, acrylic bath paint is an alternative: you can use water-based mixtures inside. Considering the resistance of acrylates to low temperatures, this same type of decorative finish can also be used for facade work (the instructions for use confirm this).

Photo of a steam room whose walls are varnished

The advantages of paint over varnish include a large range of colors and a long service life of the decorative coating.

Materials for exterior treatment and painting of baths

Our ancestors did not resort to painting log walls and did not treat the outside of a wooden bathhouse with anything. The buildings served actively, but for a relatively short time, they burned often, and sometimes looked very shabby. In the era of rapid development of the paint and varnish industry, wooden buildings can be protected from fire, rot, fungus and mold, and even decorated at your discretion. Let's figure out what, why, when and how you can treat and paint the outside of the bathhouse.

It is rare that a bathhouse can be built without a log or timber frame. Wood is a popular material in Russia, relatively affordable, widespread, easy to use and environmentally friendly. Moisture, pests, sunlight and fire are its sworn enemies. Atmospheric and internal moisture can accumulate inside logs, timber and boards. Ideal conditions are created for the spread of fungus and mold, the proliferation of bacteria and insects. Bark beetles, weevils, and grinders make passages, destroying the tree from the inside, and we witness the appearance of rot and wormholes. Over time, the bathhouse loses its strength. From the outside of a bathhouse, when exposed to sunlight, the wood dries out, loses color, and cracks. Fire can destroy a wooden building in an instant. And since bathhouses in Russia are heated with wood, the risk of fire is quite high.

Therefore, protective treatment of external walls can significantly increase the service life of the building and maintain an attractive appearance. Let's look at the options for painting bathhouse timber.

Types of coatings and bath painting options

Antiseptics for wood

– substances or mixtures that have the ability to inhibit the development of biological pests in wood and minimize its decay. Currently, treating walls with antiseptics solves a wide range of problems. They provide wood with high-quality and lasting protection from unwanted invasion of beetles and their larvae, types of fungus, algae, mold, dampness, temperature changes and sun. Antiseptics preserve the natural color and strength of wood. These materials have long become multifunctional; moreover, some, in addition to protection, also create a decorative coating. It is believed that impregnation and treatment of the material with such compositions increases resistance to rotting and reduces the risk of pest development by 3-4 times. Although the cost of the building material itself at the base of the bathhouse may increase in this case by 15-20%.

Some of the antiseptics and protective impregnations for outdoor use in our store:

  • Pinotex Classic Plus 3 in 1 antiseptic impregnation to protect wood for up to 9 years. The main components are acrylic copolymer, alkyd emulsion, fungicidal additives. The material is suitable for processing timber, rounded logs, lining, block house, plank, planed and sawn wood. The impregnation has a glazing decorative effect. The assortment includes ready-made colors and a base for tinting according to the “Wood Harmony” catalogue;
  • Tikkurila Valtti Color Satin is a glazing antiseptic with a satin finish for wood based on tall and linseed oils. The protective effect lasts up to 7 years. It is tinted according to the Tikkurila Valtti catalog in 40 discreet stylish shades. It is enough to cover the wooden beam in 1-2 layers to not only protect the frame of the bathhouse, but also give the surface a noble satin shine and a beautiful shade;
  • Neomid 435 ECO concentrated antiseptic 1:9 non-washable for interior and exterior use in a noble brown color. When processing externally, to fix the color, it is recommended to cover the treated surface with a film-forming coating;
  • VGT Bioprotection Wood is a wood-protective antiseptic. Has a long-term preventive and “therapeutic effect” lasting up to 12 years;
  • Remmers Carbolin is a water-repellent antiseptic based on carbolineum (a product of fractional distillation of coal and wood tars) to protect wood.

The full range of antiseptic materials for wood can be found in this section of the catalog.

Fire retardant materials

for wood are divided into materials for internal and external processing. Fire protection on external materials must be covered with a finishing layer, since the fire retardant impregnation can be gradually washed out by precipitation. There are materials with antiseptic additives in their composition - they protect the wood from fire, rot, and biological damage (mold and mildew). But the concentration of these fungicides here is usually weaker than in a conventional antiseptic.

There are several types of fire retardants:

  • inorganic acids, amides, polyols, which swell when heated and fuse into a dense layer, protect wood from fire;
  • salt, acid and phosphate flame retardants, which suppress combustion, prevent the spread of flame over the surface.

There are 2 methods of applying fire retardant materials: surface (coating) or deep impregnation with immersion in special baths. The second method is preferable, but is used only before the start of construction at the stage of preparation of materials.

There are 3 groups of fire retardant efficiency – I, II and III:

  • Group I is hard-to-burn wood that loses no more than 9% of its total mass during testing. It is obtained by deep impregnation or repeated surface treatment with high-quality compounds that have a certificate of conformity;
  • Group II – low-flammable wood pulp or materials based on it, for example, plywood. Here, the mass loss ranges from 9–30%;
  • Group III – weight loss of processed wood more than 30%.

Our store has a wide selection of Neomid products that provide both fire and bioprotection:

  • Fire and bioprotection Neomid 450-1 protects against fire and is also an antiseptic, providing fire protection group I or II with low composition consumption for a period of 7 years. Bioprotection lasts up to 10 years. At the same time, the fire retardant composition is colorless, which allows you to apply a decorative layer on top of the protective one;
  • Fire-bioprotection Neomid 450 provides group 2 fire-retardant efficiency to wood. Otherwise, it repeats the properties of the previous fire retardant composition;
  • Neomid 001 Superprof is a highly effective fire retardant composition to provide group I fire protection. Protects wooden structures from fire and flame spread, as well as rotting, mold, and damage by wood-boring insects.

No matter how high-quality the composition is, it is not able to completely stop a fire, but can only restrain the spread of fire for some time. As a rule, load-bearing structures of wooden buildings are treated with fire-retardant impregnations. It is entirely justified to impregnate the rafter system of the bathhouse roof, but the log house is rarely treated with these materials. Moreover, fire retardants are not used to protect hot rooms in bathhouses.

Varnishes and paints

, as in the case of other wooden houses, they are used in the exterior decoration of baths. The choice of colors is huge. Only in our store are materials from the brands Tikkurila, Tex, Pinotex, Brite, VGT, Remmers. Choosing a composition without consulting a specialist can be time-consuming and very problematic. Paints that can be used to paint the outside of a log house are divided depending on the type of binder into acrylic, oil and alkyd, and also according to the degree of hiding power into glaze and covering (opaque). It is also worth noting that building materials for bathhouses include rounded logs, chopped logs, laminated veneer lumber, and regular logs. Not all paints are equally suitable for every facade. Here are some examples of materials:

  • Tikkurila Pika Teho water-soluble facade acrylate good paint containing wood oil provides up to 20 years of protection in the harsh conditions of our climate. The oils in its composition protect the wooden facade of the house from rain, snow and ultraviolet radiation. The coating adheres well to wood and does not fade. It creates a surprisingly strong and durable coating on plank walls, but is not suitable for finishing log bases;
  • Pinotex Extreme ONE is a heavy-duty acrylic-based topcoat for wood. Creates a semi-matte protective coating with a self-cleaning effect. Suitable for wooden buildings made of timber, rounded logs, lining, block house, planken. You can paint a bathhouse made of timber and protect it from atmospheric influences for 16 years if you follow the technology. Available in 50 shades;
  • Brite anti-stain paint for wooden surfaces based on Teflon. Suitable for painting a bathhouse made of timber from the outside, as well as from logs, boards, block houses, timber;
  • Bioteks alkyd-based paint for wooden facades. Designed for painting sawn and planed, new and previously painted wooden surfaces. Protects against mold, rot, fungi. Forms an elastic, weather-resistant, dirt-repellent coating. Not recommended for painting logs.

But! With all the variety of materials for protecting and finishing wooden facades of bathhouses, among the craftsmen there are ardent opponents of the use of any impregnations or paints, especially when it comes to traditional log cabins. Some practitioners are confident that walls made of solid logs do not need to be coated with any compounds and painting the log house with paint or protective treatment will do more harm than good. The only thing they consider necessary to cover in a log house is the ends of the logs, as the areas most exposed to moisture. Mold in a new log house, according to some craftsmen, can only appear if it was built from undried logs. One of the main conditions for the appearance of rot and mold is high wood humidity (more than 19%). The choice is yours - whether to trust the experience of a few opponents or rely on the developments of leading manufacturers. Choose your options for painting the log house.

General rules for painting a log bathhouse

  • Before painting the outside of the bathhouse, it is important to properly and thoroughly prepare the surface - sand the logs and remove all dust that appears;
  • If rot, resin or resin pockets, rust stains, tannins are noticeable on the surface, it must be sanded more thoroughly and deeply. Then treat with a blocking primer or antiseptic;
  • It is recommended to paint the log house with an average of 2 layers of paint at a temperature not lower than +10 °C and not higher than +30 °C, relative air humidity from 40% to 80%, wood moisture < 18%;
  • Be particularly careful to impregnate the end surfaces of the wood being treated.

Choosing paints for concrete floors

There are four types of paints used to paint concrete floors: acrylic, epoxy, acrylic-silicone and alkyd-urethane.

Acrylic

Such paints are resistant to water and temperature. Paint for concrete floors makes the surface matte, semi-matte and glossy.

To dissolve acrylic paints, use plain water and acrylic thinners. The painted surface is ready for use after 48 hours.

This type of floor paint should not be used on concrete floors that have previously been painted with epoxy or polyurethane products.

Epoxy

Two-component paint compositions are mixed with a construction mixer before starting the painting process.

Before using paints, the floor is treated with a primer - an epoxy compound diluted 25% with ordinary water.

Complete drying is achieved after 7 days, but the surface can be used within 24 hours. Concrete floor paint has a limited range of colors.

Alkyd-urethane

The materials are distinguished by a high degree of concealment and require painting the floor in several layers. Concrete paint is resistant to rapid abrasion and temperature conditions. White alcohol (15%) is used for dilution.

The paints are distinguished by a wide palette of colors and an attractive gloss of the painted surface.

Features of paint application

The surest way to paint is to apply the first layer. Then you should wait for it to dry completely and only then apply the next layer. The ends are painted more carefully - in 4 layers.

After applying the initial layer, if irregularities appear on the surface, they should be sanded. The area is then covered with at least two layers. Using a spray gun greatly simplifies and speeds up the painting process. There are devices designed specifically for water-soluble or alkyd compounds.


Using a spray gun greatly simplifies and speeds up the painting process.

Features of choosing a coloring composition for a bath

The difficulty of choosing is due to temperature and humidity. The heat is much stronger in the room closer to the ceiling, and with strong heating, as mentioned earlier, coloring pigments release toxic substances into the air.

Therefore, in a steam room, it is advisable to treat the ceiling and upper part of the room with impregnations. Like paints, they differ in their composition and release form; they can be water- or oil-based.

Before purchasing, it is important to determine the area where it will be used (ceiling, floor, walls, etc.). The choice is also influenced by subsequent processing, namely, whether the surface will subsequently be covered with a decorative layer or not. The next factor is ease of application, as well as the degree of moisture protection. The optimal product is considered to have good moisture-proof and steam permeability properties.


In the steam room, it is advisable to treat the ceiling and upper part of the room with impregnations.

Types of insulation

The competent choice of heat insulator for wooden and concrete floors deserves special attention. Due to the specific microclimate in the steam room, it is undesirable to use mineral insulation. This is due to several reasons:

  1. When wet, the thermal conductivity of the insulator increases;
  2. Damp mineral insulation is an ideal substrate for the development of pathogens: mold or mildew.

Having decided to insulate the floors with your own hands, it is advisable to choose the following heat insulators:

  • Perlite is a lightweight material with minimal thermal conductivity, which is added to cement mortars to reduce the thermal conductivity of the screed;
  • Expanded polystyrene is a non-hygroscopic insulation material that can be used to insulate both wooden and concrete bases;
  • Polystyrene foam is a thermal insulating material that is similar in its technical characteristics to expanded polystyrene.

Selection of paint and varnish materials for interior work

Requirements for coating materials vary depending on the processing area. The steam room is considered the most problematic place. Oil-based coatings better penetrate deep into the natural structure of the material, prolonging its service life, but at the same time they are characterized by increased toxicity and an unpleasant odor due to the presence of solvents in their composition. They are ideal for treating the outside of walls, as well as the dressing room.

Water-soluble impregnations are suitable for this area. They are based on acrylic, and an additional component is color, which gives the surface a particular shade. This impregnation can be used to treat the structure both inside and outside. However, despite all the advantages, acrylic compositions have a significant disadvantage - over time they are washed out of the wood structure.

In order for the surface to retain its properties for as long as possible, it is necessary to paint it periodically. Another option is to apply a waterproofing compound first and only then impregnation.

How else can you paint a bathhouse inside a steam room? Instead of drying oil, you can use paraffin oil or any other composition intended directly for the steam room. This oil is distinguished by its safety for health while maintaining characteristics similar to drying oil.

In the bathhouse, surfaces are treated with impregnation several times a year.


In order for the surface to retain its properties for as long as possible, it is necessary to paint it periodically.

The least heating zone in the steam room is the floors. Therefore, the answer to the question of how to paint the floors in a steam room in a bathhouse is quite simple - any oil impregnations or acrylate compounds. For wooden floors, you can use water-based varnishes, which do not have an unpleasant odor and are much easier to apply. When choosing a water-based varnish, it is better to give preference to European manufacturers, since the quality of these particular products is much higher.

You can often find concrete flooring. This coating must be painted. Epoxy, polyurethane and acrylic mixtures are suitable for this.


For wooden floors, you can use water-based varnishes, which do not have an unpleasant odor and are much easier to apply.

What and how to paint the inside of a bathhouse

Before answering how to paint the inside of a bathhouse, you should decide on the type of wood. The building is divided into several rooms. For example, to build a steam room, special heat-resistant wood species are used that do not release resins when heated.

Moisture-resistant wood is used for the dressing room and rest room. Most often, spruce or larch is used for interior wall decoration. Because of such nuances, painting the inside of a bathhouse has a number of its own issues: one type of paint is used to paint the floor, benches, table and lining, and special fire-retardant compounds are used to paint directly vertical surfaces.

In addition to paints, there are additionally special impregnations and varnishes. The latter are distinguished by their transparency with subtle shades, which after drying only emphasize the structure of the wood.


Moisture-resistant wood is used for the dressing room and rest room.

Features of protection of different parts of the steam room

Of course, you can saturate the entire steam room and the furniture in it with one composition. And then coat it with one varnish. Moreover, the products currently produced are rarely limited to one protection function. They usually combine, for example, impermeability with antibacterial effects. But the conditions affecting different parts of the steam room are still somewhat different. Therefore, the processing requirements are also different.

Ceiling

Perhaps the least requirements are placed on this part of the steam room. It is exposed only to the temperature effects of steam. Water almost never reaches it. Therefore, it can simply be coated with a specialized bath varnish.


The ceiling in the bathhouse must be reliably protected from dampness and temperature Source eco-ceiling.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer bathhouse construction services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Floor

Unlike the ceiling, all the water that is used in the steam room ends up on the floor. Therefore, the anti-water protection for floor boards must be very good. In addition to antibacterial and anti-water impregnation, it is advisable to cover the floor with a protective layer of varnish. But not every varnish is suitable for the floor. The protective layer should not be slippery. This is a must to protect the floor. Of course, the soles of your feet should not stick to the floor. Do not think that repeatedly coating the floor with varnish increases its safety. The thick layer of varnish cracks and water reaches the wood. In addition, the wood cannot “breathe” through such a coating and will still deteriorate.

When building a bathhouse, do not forget about impregnating the logs on which the floor boards are laid. This, of course, is not the inside of the bathhouse, and there are no special protection requirements for them. But if water gets to them, then sooner or later the floor inside the bathhouse itself will suffer, no matter how well it is protected.

Walls

Most of the impregnation for the bathhouse inside is spent on protecting the lining, which is usually used to line the walls. Therefore, you should not use impregnations and varnishes that, when heated, can release strong-smelling substances. And do not cover it with a protective layer that does not allow the wood to “breathe.”

Shelves and benches

The shelves are the main part of the entire steam room, for which it is, in fact, built. Lying on it should be comfortable, pleasant and safe for health. Wood is a poor heat conductor, so even at high temperatures you won’t get burned by it. It’s another matter if it is covered with a protective film, which can cause a burn if touched. Therefore, it is not recommended to use paints or varnishes for it. It is better to apply a special impregnation for the bath. Often such impregnations are wax-based.

The requirements for the safety and convenience of the surface of shelves and benches are so high that there are bathhouse lovers who believe that wood should be natural for them and not covered with anything at all. But this is still suitable for small bathhouses, where simple shelves can be replaced. And when real furniture masterpieces are built, it is better to find a high-quality composition and ensure their durability.


It’s not enough to create beauty – it also needs to be protected

Tikkurila - an effective product for interior painting of baths

The Finnish brand Tikkurila has been in demand not only among domestic consumers for many years, but also abroad. Products from the Biotex, Vivacolor and Tikkurila brands satisfy the needs of the most demanding developers. Special products from Tikkuril and other manufacturers are applied to various interior elements inside the bathhouse or sauna. Tikkurila brand preparations recommended for interior work.

  1. Soupy Arctic. Reliable impregnation, the application of which protects wood from the effects of microorganisms. It has dirt-repellent properties. This representative from Tikkuril is used to cover the walls and ceilings of steam rooms.
  2. Supi Laudesuoya. The drug is applied to the shelves and backs inside the bathhouse. It is better to paint shelves with an oil or wax composition rather than an alkyd one.
  3. Supi Saunavaha. Natural wax is the main component of this product produced by Tikkurila. It makes the use of the product universal and has no restrictions.
  4. Supi Saunasuoya. When applied, the light matte finish and natural grain of the wood are preserved; it does not absorb water, dirt and dust. It is recommended to paint the walls, ceiling, and benches in the dressing room twice with this Tikkuril product. In the steam room it is used for the ceiling, but in one layer.

Metal equipment, including stoves installed in baths or saunas, also require careful care. Tikkuril thermal silicone-aluminum paint is widely used for these purposes. It serves for finishing and protects the metal from exposure to steam and high temperatures.

Surface preparation and painting process

Whatever you paint the steam room in the bathhouse with, first the surface needs to be prepared, and taking into account the material (wood), this process is a necessity. First you need to prepare all the tools and the coloring composition itself. It is advisable to familiarize yourself with the recommendations of the masters. This is especially important to take into account for people who are encountering such work for the first time. Surface requirements:

  • The surface shade should be uniform. The heterogeneous structure is degreased;
  • Professionals treat the wood with hot drying oil, which helps stop the growth of bacteria;
  • Using special equipment it is necessary to sand the surface.

The paint is applied with a roller, brush or spray gun. The last option is suitable for people who have experience working with such equipment. Otherwise, it is impossible to achieve the desired result.


Professionals treat the wood with hot drying oil, which helps stop the growth of bacteria.

Preparing for painting

Preparation for painting a bath is standard:

  1. Walls, floors, furniture are cleaned of dust and dirt. It is advisable to degrease the surface by treating it with white alcohol.
  2. To make the paint adhere better, sand it. It's better to use a sander.
  3. If the surface is painted or waxed, a primer is applied. The composition improves adhesion to the paint coating and reduces its consumption. There is no need to prime the varnish.

Painting is carried out after the primer has completely dried.

Alternative coloring agents for baths

How to paint the walls inside a bathhouse if you don’t want to use toxic substances? Use folk recipes. In ancient times, people used natural substances in the form of oak bark decoction. It gives the wood a dark but natural shade. You can get a fire-fighting composition by mixing starch and ocher.

A combination of flax drying oil and beeswax in equal proportions is also known. To this day, people still use linseed oil and even vegetable oil as impregnation. However, time-tested, natural ingredients cannot withstand any competition with modern industrial drugs.


Oak bark gives the wood a dark but natural shade.

Regardless of the quality of the materials used, experts advise carrying out antiseptic measures by impregnating the wood at least once a year. It is important to follow all recommended actions. For example, despite the “perfect” composition of modern products, none of them will last long if applied to an unpolished surface. The main objective of the coating is not only to improve aesthetic results, but also to extend the operational life of the wood. Therefore, when purchasing ready-made preparations, you need to pay attention to highly specialized paints, impregnations and varnishes intended directly for baths and saunas.

Impregnation for baths and saunas inside

If external impregnation has already become more or less clear, you can move on to the extensive issue of internal impregnation.

How does internal impregnation differ from external impregnation? If we are talking about antiseptics, then the degree of aggressiveness. After all, all antiseptics are poisons not only for mushrooms or insects, but also for people. It’s just that now these are low-toxic substances, but before there was a nightmare of arsenic and chromium. However, indoor antiseptics should be even safer.

If we talk about impregnations for wood in a bathhouse for interior work, then these are not paints, which can be more harmful if used outside. Impregnations will differ only in the presence or absence of additives that protect the wood from the sun and other environments. Such additives are not needed indoors.

For lining

Lining is a thin profiled board. What is it impregnated with and why? Of course, any wooden part when moistened is at risk of infection with fungi that cause rotting or mold.

But in our opinion, only the lining that is located in the washing room and (attention!) near the floor in the steam room needs antiseptic protection

Impregnation for lining in a bathhouse

Let us explain: the temperature near the floor, even in the steam room, is not that high, and the lower lining often gets wet. An antiseptic may or may not be used if it is replaced with high-quality ventilation and drying (see the section on ventilation), as well as some life hacks, the point of which is to prevent the lining from coming into contact with the floor.

So, if an antiseptic for lining is needed, it is in limited quantities. In the washing room, a primer for (interior) acrylate varnish will be sufficient.

For boards

Lining is also “boards”. But even with ordinary edged (or even unedged) boards, a bathhouse can be sheathed inside and out. This is an extremely low-cost construction option, so we will not say that such a bathhouse should be covered with compounds purchased for a lot of money from the Finns.

Impregnation for boards in a bathhouse can be quite inexpensive if you use an old, time-tested recipe for a mixture of linseed oil and wax. Watch the video, which clearly demonstrates the process of preparing such a composition and its application in practice. And note: the owner of the bathhouse was happy to cover it with it inside and out!

For floors

Again the same point: impregnations are antiseptic and water-repellent. Both are in demand for floors, because there is dampness from the underground, and moisture from the steam room and washing room (you shouldn’t think that if water doesn’t pour onto the floor, then everything is dry, there is also moisture in the air, which condenses instantly, if there is a cold surface).

There is a lot of moisture in the bathhouse. Therefore, it must be dried and protected. We recommend covering the floors with some kind of interior antiseptic, but on the condition that the seller or manufacturer was able to assure (or better yet, prove) that this antiseptic protects not only from mold, but also from rot. We have said more than once that these are different types of mushrooms that require different compositions.

A finishing coating can be applied over the antiseptic. Typically, special paints and varnishes with additives are used for flooring, which increase their wear resistance. In particular, these are urethane and polyurethane additives. They are needed because we constantly wear down the flooring with our feet.

In steam rooms and washing rooms, you can use yacht varnish as a finishing coating, which is not afraid of moisture. However, here we go beyond the scope of our topic. Because varnishes are not impregnations. We have a separate material about impregnations for bath floors.

On the other hand, using oil to impregnate the floor inside a bathhouse is a bad idea. Of course, there are oils that do not cause slipping. But the fact is that oil impregnations do not provide a coating that is resistant to abrasion. And they give varnishes. Therefore, wooden floors are coated with varnish.

How and with what to treat lining in a steam room - practical tips

Building a bathhouse is a complex process that includes many different tasks. The basis of the bathhouse is a log house, which is additionally lined inside. The lining most often used is lining made from alder, aspen or spruce, which have high strength and resistance to steam and moisture.

However, the natural properties of wood are not always enough. In a bathhouse, wood is exposed to moisture and hot steam, which leads to deformation of the skin. To avoid damage to the wood, it is necessary to additionally treat its surface. In this article we will tell you how to treat the lining inside a bathhouse so as not to change it every year.

Features of the composition

The treated wood surface has high water-repellent properties, maintaining a healthy natural microclimate in the room. This effect is achieved through the use of new technology - Hydromembrane

.

Hydromembrane "NORTH"
- This
a unique combination of natural waxes
and a special coating structure, due to which the wood acquires enhanced water-repellent properties. In nature, this effect is called the “lotus effect.”

"Lotus Effect"

is an effect of extremely low surface wettability that can be observed on lotus leaves. Due to the fact that the leaf is covered with wax, which is produced in its glands, and also due to the special microstructure of the surface, water falling on the surface curls into ball-shaped drops and flows off.

Installation of brick partitions in baths

If you were still in doubt up to this point, check out this list:

  1. The metal structure heats up very quickly, which does not allow the body to adapt to the high temperature.
  2. A metal stove cools down as quickly as it heats up. You have to constantly monitor the temperature by adding logs, which is not very economical.
  3. The material lined with brick will not heat and dry the air so quickly, which means the atmosphere in the steam room will be more comfortable.
  4. There is a high probability of being burned on the walls of a metal structure. People sitting next to the stove will not feel comfortable.

All these small shortcomings can be easily eliminated with the help of cladding, which will increase the performance of the stove, improve its design and neutralize harm to health, because people go to the bathhouse to improve their health, and not vice versa!

This is the most optimal solution in terms of efficiency and labor costs - to combine the advantages of a metal and stone stove.

At the moment, factories are producing stoves that are initially designed for further lining with brick; this design is the golden mean that will allow you to profitably equip an excellent steam room.

For lining the furnace you need to use only these types of bricks:

  • red ceramic brick;
  • fireclay brick.

Do not take sand-lime brick. It is great for cladding a house, but it is not suitable for lining a sauna stove. Lime-based bricks are simply not able to withstand constant temperature changes and high humidity in a steam room.

After just a few weeks of use, it will begin to deteriorate. And from a decorative point of view, it is not suitable and additional cladding will still be required.

Fireclay brick

Outwardly, it is, of course, inferior to red ceramic brick, but this issue can be resolved with decorative finishing cladding.

If there are no remaining bricks on the farm, it is better to buy a new one! Give preference to ceramic red brick. Its specific gravity is much lower than that of fireclay. It demonstrates excellent technical properties, reliability and durability. And externally, the stove, lined with red ceramic bricks, will delight you for many years with its stylish, authentic look.

The process of lining a sauna stove with bricks is not very complicated, and if you strictly follow the detailed instructions, even a beginner can handle it.

Brick lining scheme

Painting a brick oven

Preparatory stage: If there are minor defects (depressions, bumps, potholes), first plaster and level, and cover the seams with a clay solution. You can learn how to prepare a good clay solution from the corresponding article, which is on the blog...

Plaster is made from clay and crushed asbestos. The resulting mixture is carefully applied to a well-heated stove.

How to paint: The two most popular proven folk methods are lime or chalk. The third method is again heat-resistant paint, which is also used for iron sauna stoves.

Cooking and painting with chalk

Stages:

  1. Pour the pieces of chalk into a container (bucket, basin), fill with slightly warm water so as to cover the surface and leave for at least one hour;
  2. In another container, mix animal glue with warm water in a ratio of 25:1. Animal glues include gelatin, casein, albumin, and bone.
  3. Mix both solutions and bring to a homogeneous consistency. “To check the quality of the solution, drop it on a piece of glass or mirror placed vertically. If the density is normal, then the droplet will slide down by 2-3 cm.”
  4. Apply two or three layers. Each subsequent one, only after the previous one has dried. “For a more “clean” whiteness, you can add a tablespoon of blue to a bucket of the finished solution. It will remove some of the yellowness.”

Cooking and painting with lime

Steps:

  1. Solution proportions: 1 kg of lime / 1.5 liters of water at room temperature / 1 tbsp. spoon of drying oil / 25-30 grams of blue / 1 tbsp. spoon of salt. Mix. “The most durable whitewash is made from freshly slaked lime, and salt is added to make the lime coating less dirty.”
  2. Apply in two or three layers. Unlike whitewashing with chalk, each subsequent layer of lime whitewash is applied to the wet previous one. “If the stove in the bathhouse was previously painted with chalk, and you intend to use lime (and vice versa), the surface must be thoroughly cleaned of old paint.”

Proper processing of lining

Having decided how to cover the lining in the steam room of the bathhouse, you can proceed to the processing itself. To perform high-quality impregnation that will last a long time, we recommend that you read the following instructions:

  1. Processing lining in a steam room begins with preparing the wood itself. Clean it from various contaminants with sandpaper or other suitable method. It is also recommended to wash the boards with an aqueous solution of soda (300 g of soda per 10 liters of water);
  2. Next, you need to degrease the surfaces. Remember that not only the lining itself is impregnated, but also the frame to which it is attached;
  3. Sand surfaces with pumice to obtain a smooth finish;
  4. Next, you need to apply an antiseptic that will protect the wood from fungus and mold;
  5. Now you can saturate the paneling. When choosing impregnation for the dressing room, pay attention to the humidity of the air in it, as well as the temperature of the steam. If the indicators are approximately equal to the indicators inside the steam room, then it is necessary to use the same impregnation.

By doing all the work correctly, you can achieve an excellent result, as in the photo.

If you decide to paint wood, then you next need to decide how to paint the lining in the steam room of the bathhouse. Often, a special acrylic varnish is used for this, which can withstand high temperatures and does not release toxins, but special paint can also be used.

To paint the lining with high quality, you must follow certain rules:

  1. Painting of the lining is carried out in warm and dry weather.
  2. You can paint with a roller or brush, moving them parallel to the wood fibers so as not to leave streaks on the surface.
  3. Stir the paint thoroughly before applying to obtain a uniform color.
  4. Apply the paint in a thin layer - this will allow you to achieve the best coloring result.

Peculiarities of processing lining in the washing compartment and dressing room

Decorative finishes in the wash compartment are constantly exposed to the negative effects of steam and water. Therefore, providing protection with antiseptic compounds is a top priority.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the Stove for a Russian bath - All about the bath

You can cover the lining in the bath with the following preparations (our recommendations):

  • “Senezh Sauna” is an antiseptic impregnation to protect wood from damage by fungi, mold and wood-boring insects. It is intended for treating wall and ceiling surfaces, as well as doorways in rooms with high humidity and temperature changes.
  • Dulux Celco Sauna is a water-based varnish with good moisture and heat-resistant characteristics. Allowed for use in rooms with a temperature range from 70 to 120 degrees. The varnish is resistant to darkening, has no unpleasant odor, and dries quickly.
  • “Snegurochka 2” is a two-component antiseptic composition that prevents the formation of mold and mildew, ensures the sanitation of wood, and helps lighten lining that has darkened due to prolonged contact with water.

To paint the lining and prevent the negative effects of moisture, steam and temperatures, it is necessary to use safe protective compounds for wood. Even a novice craftsman with minimal experience working with painting tools can master the technology of processing wooden surfaces in a bathhouse.

Manufacturers

Bath paint is produced by domestic and foreign manufacturers. Its price depends on the material used and the quantity in the jar.

Belinka

The manufacturer's product range consists of paints, glazing compounds, varnishes, and impregnations. They have a wide range of colors, which allows you to bring any design idea to life. When using materials, the structure of the wood is preserved. Belinka produces polyacrylate paints that have water-repellent and vapor-permeable properties.

Tex

Paint from the Russian manufacturer Tex has protective qualities, which guarantees an increase in service life. The company produces soil and glaze antiseptics, drying oils, wax compositions, and fire-retardant impregnation. This allows you to choose an acceptable option for painting the bathhouse.

Saikos

The compositions of the German manufacturer are developed on the basis of natural oils and waxes. This ensures the preservation of the structure for many years.

What types of paints are there?

Universal fire protection products, as the name suggests, perform the functions of an antiseptic and a fire retardant at the same time.

Some compositions have a tinting property, or require subsequent painting and act as a primer. Along with impregnations, there are varnishes and paints that perform the functions of fire protection and protection against insects.

The purpose of the primer is to strengthen the wood structure and enhance adhesion (“sticking” of paint to the surface being painted). Some primers contain bioprotective components. When choosing a primer, you must follow the paint manufacturer's recommendations: the compositions must be compatible.

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