How to sheathe the gable of the roof of a house: an overview of popular cladding methods

Materials for finishing the bathhouse inside and outside

The pediment will not look complete without the appropriate finishing.
It can be covered with the same material that is used to finish the walls, as well as any other types of coverings. Among them are: All types of materials have their advantages and disadvantages. They can be selected in accordance with the general style of the building and roof structure.

Finishing the attic gable

Wooden pediment

This option is ideal if the walls of the house are made of wood. Usually, for these purposes, a block house is purchased - a special board, which is used for finishing. In terms of external data, it is similar to the finishing material of the building and therefore allows you to maintain the integrity of the perception of the general appearance of the building.

Wooden finishing is good because this environmentally friendly material is able to “breathe”, does not accumulate condensation, and can be purchased at any specialized store. This type of gable finishing is quite common.

In the photo - a carved pediment on a wooden house

But wood trim has its drawbacks. It costs more than other options, and also tends to change its physical parameters due to changes in humidity and temperature. That is why, before starting work, it is important to treat all wooden elements with protective agents, including moisture-repellent and fire-resistant ones.

Block house prices

Brick pediment

A frequently encountered design option for the pediment when building brick houses. To reduce the number of gaps between the slopes and the walls of the pediment, the edges of the building material can be trimmed. To make the pediment stronger, reinforcing mesh is used during laying. For ease of work, a wooden strip with a height up to the roof ridge is installed in the middle of the end. Thin cords are pulled from it so that an isosceles triangle is formed.

Antique brick pediment

Roof tiles

Quite a beautiful, but difficult to work with option for finishing the pediment. Ideal for finishing attics, decorating dormer windows, bay windows. The difficulty is that it is not easy to work with tiles on vertical surfaces. But such a pediment looks really chic.

Tiled pediment

Flat sheets of metal are not cheap and are rarely used for gable cladding. Therefore, ordinary corrugated sheets are most often used. This finish is not afraid of moisture (due to the polymer protective layer), light, and wind. But working with such materials is not easy.

The pediment of the house, finished with corrugated sheets

This is the most commonly used material for decorating not only gables, but also walls of the house. It is easy to install, inexpensive, and looks quite beautiful, replete with color variations. Of course, vinyl siding cannot be called an environmentally friendly finishing option, but due to its other advantages, you can close your eyes to this drawback.

Finishing the gable with siding

Siding can be installed either with or without preliminary preparation of the walls (insulation and waterproofing). It all depends on what the purpose of the attic will be (it can be residential, or it can be used for storing things).

Installing siding yourself is quite simple. There are a lot of components that simplify the work. Therefore, even a beginner can cope with the task.

Modern pediment decoration

The facade of the bathhouse sheathed with natural materials looks aesthetically pleasing and gives the building individuality.

A bathhouse made of rounded logs or laminated veneer lumber looks attractive and does not require additional finishing of the facade. But what if the construction was framed or made of cinder blocks? It is necessary to finish the bath and give it an aesthetic appearance. There are a lot of finishing materials on the market, but making a choice on your own can be difficult. How to cover the outside of a bathhouse, what materials are suitable, their features, pros and cons, we will consider together with our readers.

External finishing of a bathhouse is usually done with facade insulation. Since the bathhouse is small in size, it is more profitable to save internal space and install insulation on the outside. The simplest and most correct option is a ventilated facade. This way, moisture will not accumulate on the walls and the bathhouse will last longer.

For the ventilated facade of the bathhouse, the following materials are used:

Each has its pros and cons. Let's take a closer look at them.

When the question arises of how to finish a bathhouse and sauna, and what to cover it with, not everyone understands that the question is not the simplest. It is believed that wooden finishing is the most optimal, but this is when it comes to the interior lining of the steam room. In all other cases, you can use the huge variety that the market offers today.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with How to sheathe the second floor under a roof

For example, a locker room can simply be plastered and partially finished with facing bricks or tiles. Exterior decoration, in general, is not limited by anything. Of course, if baths and saunas were built from logs or timber, then there can be no talk of any kind of cladding. The frame of a bathhouse or sauna is simply varnished and treated with protective compounds. Rarely painted.

And yet there are finishing materials that are suitable for any bathhouse for finishing both outside and inside. This is clapboard and block house finishing. Let's look at these finishing materials and determine why they are so popular today.

So, lining is a material made from different types of wood. It got its name because it was used for covering carriages. Although in America this material has been used for a very long time for cladding houses.

Today, they are increasingly separating this material, like regular lining and eurolining. How are they different from each other? First of all, the quality of the raw materials used. Eurolining is dry planks with precise dimensions without defects and flaws (knots, resin stains, etc.).

If we talk about technical characteristics, then the differences are significant, especially in the sizes of the boards. For example, the thickness of the usual version is from 12 to 40 mm, width 70-120 mm, length 0.2-6 m in increments of 20 cm, tenon size 4-5 cm.

For eurolining, the thickness has certain exact indicators: 13, 16 and 19 mm. The width also has precise indicators: 80, 100, 110 and 120 mm. The length varies in the range of 0.5-6 m in increments of 20 cm. The dimensional indicators of the tenon are 8-9 cm. That is, if you choose Euro lining, then this is a guarantee of exact dimensions. In the usual version, there are certain errors; for some manufacturers they reach 1 cm.

Why is there such a large variation in length?

Typically, eurolining is not divided according to any characteristics. Its main difference is the wood used. But ordinary material is divided into several grades.

It should be noted that several variants of this material are hidden under the name block house. It can be a block house made of wood, metal, plastic, vinyl. Since the topic of our article is the finishing of baths and saunas, there are no polymer or metal materials, everything is about wood.

The word itself is translated from English as a block house. And if in Europe it justifies itself, then in Russia this name hides a board, one side of which is flat, the other convex, imitating an ordinary log. That is, the finishing of a block house imitates a log structure. Like lining, a block house can be made from different types of trees.

Let's move on to the technical specifications.

By the way, as in the case of lining, the block house is divided by grade. Here, almost all the same flaws and defects in wood. True, the block house has a super grade called “Extra”. It is defective only by hand, this is the complete absence of knots, cracks, resin inclusions, and so on. The most expensive variety. Expensive baths and saunas are finished with such a block house.

Wood for steam room

So, today a steam room can be covered with either clapboard or a block house. But both of these elements today are made from different types of wood, which may not all be suitable for rooms with high temperature and humidity. Let's look at some of them.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with Ventilation in a Russian steam bath

You can sew up the pediment with a lining made of PVC material

Plastic materials (lining or siding) are attractive because once you do the siding correctly and then forget about it. Covering the pediment with PVC clapboard guarantees the absence of any further painting work, which is usually necessary for wood every one to two years to maintain its antiseptic properties. PVC materials under normal operating conditions do not lose their attractive appearance for many, many years.

Correct installation of PVC materials is:

• mandatory gaps for linear expansion of PVC elements in hot weather
• mandatory gap between the sheathing and the main wooden structures for ventilation

But PVC lining or siding are afraid of open fire. Therefore, you cannot place a barbecue close or carry out any work using a gas burner: the siding loses its shape, melts and shrinks.

This is an extreme case due to negligence. And under normal conditions, PVC materials have proven themselves to be excellent. Their use is especially popular when renovating old buildings: country houses, baths. Old buildings receive a second youth. Their appearance improves by an order of magnitude.

If you choose between plastic lining and siding?

Plastic lining is intended for interior finishing work. But it has long been used in the outer cladding of old country houses and bathhouses, as the most acceptable budget option.

Considering that it is not intended for facades or for constant exposure to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation, then its “good behavior” has already been proven by many years of practice.

Indeed, compared to siding, the financial costs for materials will be 2-3 times less.

It’s just that the lining is narrower (115 mm) and has a smooth surface. And the siding is wider (244 mm) and has a certain surface relief. Including, there is siding in the form of a block house. By the way, from a distance you can’t tell it from natural wood. Only up close you can see that it’s plastic.

Covering the pediment with PVC clapboard in the vertical direction

A slight disadvantage of these materials is that they are too light and thin compared to their wooden counterparts, so they require a more frequent frame or solid base.

The range of wooden products for cladding is extensive enough to choose the appropriate material for covering gables in accordance with the design of a house or bathhouse.

For example, if a wooden frame made from logs does not require any special chic, then it is enough to simply sew up the roof gables and eaves with an edged board. Careful and high-quality work and the boards will look good. If the boards are also coated with an antiseptic composition with protection from ultraviolet rays, then they will serve for a long time without losing their attractive appearance.

Wooden lining is preferable to edged boards because of the quarters it has. If the lining is dry, then the lining will be of better quality due to the tight joining of the lining to each other. The result is a dense, gapless gable wall that will not be blown by the wind.

If the lining has not been sufficiently dried, then later, as it dries out, cracks will appear.

And yet, when covering the pediments with clapboard, the look will be much more attractive compared to an edged board, because the clapboard still has relief and a rhythmic pattern is obtained on the pediment.

If the appearance of a wooden building is subject to increased requirements such as European standards, then it would be more natural to sheathe the gables of the block with a house block.

The pediment from the block house will look like a continuation of the log house.

By the way, if finances allow, then the best option is to immediately make the gables when assembling the log house from the same material as the log house itself: logs or timber. Then you won’t have to decide how to sew up the roof gable...

Actually, a block house is a type of lining, only thicker and more voluminous in shape, imitating the surface of a rounded log. And the pediment from a block house looks very beautiful, in the same style as a log house.

Covering the gables of a bath house with a block house

The choice of material for lining the gables of a bathhouse or house (any building) depends on:

• appearance of the log house
• purpose
• developer requirements
• financial opportunities

Based on the cost of purchasing the material, you can arrange the materials discussed above in the following order (from lower price to higher):

1. plastic lining (115-140 rub/m2 with components)
2. wooden eurolining pine needles (150-240 rub/m2 depending on the grade)
3. vinyl siding (200-300 rub/m2)
4. edged board dry needles t=20mm (360-450 rub/m2)
5. wooden block house (460-550 rub/m2)

You can calculate the costs required for the gables and finally choose what to sew up the roof gable, depending on your financial capabilities.

Any of the options considered has its advantages:

• plastic lining is the cheapest
• vinyl siding - easy to install and versatile
• block house - magnificent appearance

What is a pediment? General information about its structure

The pediment is the front part of the building under the roof, limited by the roof slopes and cornice; it completes the facade wall. The pediment can be made before the roof is built or after this stage of construction. The second option is preferable if the attic space is small in size, and the first is convenient when building large gables, when the roof slopes are not yet equipped and do not interfere with the construction process.

General concepts about the pediment

However, in any case, no matter how the pediment is built, it will not look complete without finishing. Only then will the materials used during construction last a long time, as they will be minimally exposed to weather conditions. Otherwise, they will quickly lose their quality and deteriorate.

Carrying out work on finishing the pediment

Finishing the roof gable involves laying insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier materials. They will not allow the cold to penetrate into the interior of the building, and will also keep water outside and prevent the formation of condensation. The vapor barrier is attached under the interior wall sheathing inside the attic space.

The pediments are made in a classic style. After all this preparatory work has been carried out, the outer side of the pediment, facing the street, is sheathed with some kind of finishing material.
Properly sheathed, this building element will provide reliable protection from cold and moisture, and will also decorate the house. This part of the building can also act as a support directly for the roof itself and floor beams, increasing the stability of the roof structure. Pediment finished with siding By the way, the pediment is not always a mandatory element of the roof. There are roof options that only have eaves (for example, hip-shaped roofing).

Hip roof - design Photo of a hip roof

The height of the pediment as a whole can vary from 0.7 to 2.5 m (the optimal option is 2 m). There may also be a door or window leading to the attic space. The presence of these elements is especially important if an attic is being built where people will live.

We suggest you familiarize yourself with How to make a door for a bathhouse with your own hands

Table. Varieties of pediment.

Pediment finishing options Pediment cladding with wood siding

Work on gable cladding can be carried out in two ways. You can simply continue to build on the wall of the house, or you can install a new wooden frame.

How to make a gable for a bathhouse roof yourself

Gables are the part of the roof located between the two parts of the gable structure. This element plays an important role when finishing a bathhouse, since how well it is equipped determines how long the roof of the building will last and what it will look like in a few years.

Types of pediments

A special feature of a gable roof is that it allows you to equip an additional room under the roof, so the quality of the gable affects the convenience and visual appeal of the resulting living room.

There are several types of pediments:

• keeled. This name is not accidental: the pediment looks like an inverted keel of a ship. By choosing this type, the bath attendant will give his premises the sophistication of the ancient Russian culture of house building;
• onion. The pediment is shaped like a bow;
• circular It turns out if you enlarge the segment of the circle of the arched pediment;
• semicircular. Pediment obtained by dividing the circular in half;
• torn. Outwardly, it resembles a circular pediment, but at the top the arcs do not converge, as a result of which there is space for placing some object, for example, a horseshoe;
• uninhibited. Pediment having convex elements;
• male. The pediment is made of logs and the crown end wall finds its continuation in it;
• trapezoidal. The pediment has the shape of a trapezoid;
• triangular. This roof element is presented in the shape of an isosceles triangle.

How and why to make a pediment

Building a pediment is not an ordinary whim of a bathhouse owner. Most often it is erected by bathhouse attendants living in middle climatic zones. This element is quite practical, however, with all its advantages, the pediment cannot be mounted under conditions of a pitched roof. Plus, if the region is characterized by frequent hurricanes, it will have to be abandoned.

It is not difficult to build a pediment if you calculate in advance the angle of inclination of the roof, what distance should be between its edges and what material to choose for covering this element. The load-bearing capacity of the house will also have to be taken into account.

The advantage of building a gable is that, unlike other roof elements, it can be built at almost any time. If it is equipped in advance, then there will be no problems with the construction of the roof. However, if the rafter system is attached to the pediment, then in any case it will have to be installed first.

If the owner erects this element when the roof is almost ready, then its finishing will take place with some difficulties, since the attic is already ready. However, this also has a significant advantage: errors in calculations are eliminated.

Construction of the pediment

The pediment is a functional element that provides an attractive appearance to the bathhouse, so a variety of materials are used for its cladding: wood, plasterboard, metal profiles, siding, brick.

In order to avoid problems during the construction of this roof element, it is necessary to determine the sequence of actions. So, many builders determine the following plan:

• calculate the height and shape of the pediment;
• calculate the size of the ends using the formula: S=(h*a)/2, where h is the height of the end, and its width;
• when fixing the pediment, install a mast located vertically at its top;
• tie a nylon cord to the mast, secured along the roof slopes;
• build a pediment.

The height of this element depends, of course, on the wishes of the bathhouse owner, but such luxury is possible if the roof has not yet been installed. If the roof is ready, the height will depend on the dimensions of the attic. Since the bathhouse is a room that is not intended for permanent residence, the height of the pediment should not exceed 0.7 m. In order to give the additional room solidity, you can equip it with a roof window and use it as a recreation room.

When erecting a pediment, it is important to remember that it must be strong and durable, since you have to experience the impact of:

• roof weight;
• wind speed and strength.

Therefore, before starting construction, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the region in which the bathhouse is located, the altitude above sea level, etc.

In order to determine the permissible loads on the pediment, it is important to take time to calculate it and calculate the indicators of the entire bathhouse. It is worth noting that the constructed bathhouse must have an aerodynamic load coefficient of 0.7. This indicator is relevant for buildings with a gable roof; for a four-slope roof it can reach 1.6.

Self-construction

The construction of a pediment is carried out in several main steps:

• Frontal or cornice boards are fixed to the end side of the rafters;
• When hemming the cornice, it is important to leave a gap for air to penetrate into the structure;
• the material is fixed to the sheathing, it is better if these are elements treated with varnish or special paint;
• Upon completion, it is recommended to install a grille that will create an obstacle to the penetration of insects into the structure.

Preliminary calculations ↑

A pediment made of profiled timber has its own characteristic features, which play an important role in the calculation and construction.

For example, it should be taken into account that this material is far from perfectly smooth, so gaps of different sizes form on the surface of the structure. They are filled with tow. In a similar way, the cracks in the pediment made of laminated veneer lumber are also caulked. Gaps are filled regardless of the type of cladding chosen.

When performing a preliminary calculation of such a gable wall, one more very important point must also be taken into account - the shrinkage of its triangle and the frame, which occurs during at least the first two years.

In one-and-a-half-story houses, gables are cut from 150x150 timber. As for internal partitions, others are used for them - 100 by 150. Their height can reach 2.5 m. However, many builders adhere to the so-called gold standard for how to make a roof: the pediment for buildings optimally has a height of 150 cm, in other words , has 10 crowns.

What materials are in use now?

Nowadays there are a lot of good photos floating around the Internet and it is very difficult for an inexperienced person to decide. So, when choosing a pediment cladding, immediately decide for yourself 2 things:

The simplest wooden pediment is not suitable for everyone.

Facing brick

A pediment made of facing bricks looks solid, and you don’t need to worry about its durability at all. Many people believe that facing brick is not suitable for a wooden house, supposedly it was created only for block buildings, don’t believe it.

A ventilated gap with insulation is left between the brickwork and the facade wall, and with this arrangement, the material from which the walls are made does not matter.

Finishing with facing bricks requires professionalism.

Cutting out the sheathing elements

Having fitted the first sheathing element made of painted tongue-and-groove boards into place, we tightly joined the blank for the next element to it. Using the beveled end of the finished element as a base surface, the markings were transferred using a ruler, first to one edge of the workpiece, then to the other. A guide bar for the circular saw was attached along the marking line applied to the workpiece. The correct installation of the tire was additionally controlled by a tuned small scale.

The edges of the workpiece were filed with a circular saw to make the cut even and smooth. In addition, on the working edge of the guide bar there is an anti-splinter clamp made of elastic plastic, thanks to which no unnecessary processing marks remain on the front side. All cladding elements were manufactured using this technology, starting from the second. It turned out pretty quickly.

Reference by topic: Structures, types and construction of roofing

How to trim (sheath) gables

Although the outer cladding is often called decorative, first of all, of course, it is needed to reliably protect the structural elements of the building. I'll tell you how we sheathed the gables of our bathhouse.

In late autumn, having completed the installation of the metal tile roof, they decided not to start covering the gables, since this work is delicate and quite labor-intensive, and besides, the materials for it had not yet been purchased. However, I didn’t want to leave the roof overhangs unlined underneath for the winter: there was a high probability of snow getting under the roof during a snowstorm. Although the insulation on the roof slopes is protected by a durable waterproofing film, when the snow that has fallen under the roof melts, excess moisture will damage the sheathing.

According to the rules, it would be necessary to first sheathe the gables, and only then hem the overhangs so that the gaps between the sheathing elements on adjacent surfaces are minimal. But we decided, based on the current situation, to deliberately deviate from accepted building codes and prepare at least the overhangs for winter. 16 pre-painted tongue and groove boards were stored under a shed for this purpose.

Preparation for installation: sizing, drawings

Most often, in order to speed up work and save paint, wooden cladding is painted after installation. But after some time this leads to increased warping of the boards. In addition, when the wood dries out, the tenons come out of the grooves and their unpainted areas appear. Paint applied to the assembled skin glues the tenons in the grooves, which complicates subsequent repairs. Therefore, you need to paint tongue and groove boards before installation.

Long tongue-and-groove boards (for example, “imitation timber”) are best painted in an open space. To work, you need a container to pour paint into. By carefully cutting off the bottom of a strong plastic canister, for example, from a car windshield washer, we get a good device that can be placed on a horizontal surface (if there is no strong wind), convenient to hold by the existing handle, and during a break in work there will be somewhere to put it brush.

You will need a lot of boards for the sheathing. Finding a place to dry everything painted is not easy. But if you make supports for them by driving nails into the stands in two rows at a slight angle (the length of the nails and the pitch between them are chosen depending on the width of the boards), then the painted boards will take up very little space.

For convenience, all calculations will be made for a bathhouse with a side of 5 m. It is recommended to build it from sawn timber, and use the top row as a mauerlat.

Before making rafters, it is necessary to make all the necessary calculations and measurements, as well as determine the angle of inclination of the roof and the dimensions of the wooden elements.

The roof system is subject to certain loads:

When calculating the thickness and width of the rafter system elements, take into account the totality of all types of loads.

The diagram will help you calculate the material

The lower elements of the rafters are placed on the Mauerlat, and they bear lateral and vertical loads. Horizontal ones are placed on crossbars. The ridge part of the rafters takes on the compression forces in the horizontal direction. Rafter spans are subject to the greatest degree of bending.

The choice of material depends on the loads on the rafter legs

When calculating the load, it is necessary to use correction factors that depend on the height of the house.

In order to determine the load, it is necessary to multiply the standard by the specified coefficient

There are also different snow load values ​​depending on the climate zone.

If the weight of the roofing material is specified by the manufacturer, then the loads can be calculated independently

Belonging to a certain climatic zone can be seen on a special map.

Snow load map of Russia

Pediment cladding “imitation timber”

From the tongue-and-groove boards (“imitation timber” 150 mm wide) pre-painted with Pinotex, we chose the smoothest one for the lower base sheathing element. We sawed it down to length so that it would certainly cover the ends of the sheathing boards at both side overhangs. Having secured the support bars under the boards of the side overhangs, we laid this basic element on them with the tenon facing up and marked the areas on it that needed to be sawed off.

Based on the length of the upper edge (with the tenon) of the fitted first sheathing element, we determined the length of the next element and measured it on the edge with the groove. Using a small tool, the bevels of the ends were marked on it, which should exactly correspond to the slope of the roof slopes. To make the cut as clean as possible, a circular saw was used when cutting.

When marking the boards (“imitation timber”), 10 mm gaps were provided between the finished sheathing elements and the gable roof overhangs on each side. Otherwise, it will simply not be possible to place the next element on the tenon of the previous one without damage.

If the next element of the sheathing turned out to be not very smooth, it was pressed with a nail puller in the area of ​​fixation with self-tapping screws on the sheathing. The support beam was attached to the sheathing above the sheathing element in such a way that a lining could also be used to protect the tenon of the element. A sheathing element was attached to each sheathing board with two self-tapping screws, and the top ones were screwed in completely only after installing the next element - this makes it easier to join adjacent elements.

Future plans

We will someday cover the remaining gaps at the junction of the sheathing with the gable overhangs with wooden corner profiles, but even now they are not at all noticeable. And the likelihood of snow and rain getting into these gaps is low. In addition, behind the sheathing they are covered with sheathing boards.

Sheathing the pediment with the window would not have been much more difficult if we had not decided to build a canopy on it, which should cover the planned porch and the main entrance to the bathhouse (we are currently using a temporary entrance with a plywood door). But making a canopy is another story.

Source

The first stage - waterproofing the gables

It wasn't until the following summer that we returned to the gables. It would be possible to first dismantle the tongue-and-groove boards from the eaves, and then begin cladding the gables, but this path seemed to us to be unnecessarily troublesome. Therefore, we immediately began installing the waterproofing of the gable from the outside. For this purpose, we used vapor-permeable Tyvek film, which is also needed for reliable wind protection in the attic space. The film was attached to the plank gable with wide staples using a Novus electric stapler. We started with the bottom fabric cut with an allowance. Having nailed its upper edge in the middle, they began to fix this edge with staples,

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gradually shifting first in one direction and then in the other. The lower edge of the canvas was nailed to the log of the second crown from the top to close the joint of the pediment with the frame, after which the allowances of the canvas were cut in place.

The second canvas was attached above the first so as to provide an overlap of 15 cm. The lower edge of the second canvas was glued to the first using double-sided self-adhesive tape, after which it was also nailed to the base with staples.

When the installation of waterproofing on the gable was completed, the free ends of the films protecting the insulation under the roof were glued to the gable waterproofing, thereby creating a closed protective “cap”.

How to cover the outside of a bathhouse: choosing practical finishing materials

A log or timber bathhouse has an attractive facade that does not require additional decorative finishing. But buildings made of slag blocks, bricks and OSB panels require external protection and aesthetic improvement of the facade.

There are a huge number of finishing materials on the construction market, but choosing the right option is quite difficult for a novice master. How to cover the outside of a bathhouse to get a functional and attractive building?

Decorative stone as a facing material

This method of cladding a pediment is considered one of the most expensive and is used quite rarely. He is quite difficult to deal with. However, it can be found in photographs of the gables of houses designed by the world's leading architects.

Decorative stone forms a very active and attractive texture, which, when properly combined with other materials, can look very impressive. It interacts well with different types of plaster, brick, and classical design elements.

Materials for exterior finishing of baths

The external finishing of the bathhouse is carried out in conjunction with the thermal insulation of the facade. To save the usable area of ​​the building, it is recommended to install insulating material on the outside of the structure. The best option is a ventilated facade, which will provide reliable protection against the penetration of moisture and cold.

The following decorative materials are used for the insulated facade:

The traditional material for the exterior decoration of a bathhouse is wood, but metal and plastic are becoming more and more in demand. Such materials are characterized by increased strength, wear resistance, durability, inertness to negative factors and aesthetics.

Construction conditions

The design is an end wall of the attic floor , protecting the attic from natural phenomena (wind, rain, frost). The most common form of pediments is considered to be triangular, but there are also trapezoidal, pentagonal and polysyllabic types, depending on the design of the house.

The height of the gable made of aerated concrete can be from 1-1.5 m. But, if an attic floor is planned, then its dimensions are permissible from 2.5 m.

The pediment can be a continuation of the aerated concrete wall or be built on frame sheathing , which is the rafter part of the roof (aluminum, board).

The wall pediment is more durable, so it is used much more often as the main option.

The gable structure is installed on both sides of the house. It must have geometrically correct dimensions on each side, identical to each other, so that there is no distortion of the roof slope.

The construction of pediments begins from a reinforced monolithic belt (mauerlat), and is always secured with anchors during construction, in the last row of the upper wall. The basic rules for the construction of all aerated concrete structures are contained in SP 339.1325800.2017 .

The main features of pediments are that they depend on:

1. size and configuration of the future roof;
2. wall strength (continuation of the structural external load-bearing part);
3. load distribution from the roof and attic;
4. presence of windows in the attic and attic entrance.

Important ! It is best to entrust the construction of gables to professionals who will correctly make calculations, markings, and quickly and professionally carry out the work process.

Suitable blocks

Requirements for all blocks made of cellular aerated concrete are determined by a number of standards (GOSTs):

Of the existing types, the most preferable for the pediment would be a material with density markings D500-D700 (and higher), a structural series that is considered to be the best for the construction of load-bearing walls.

Different shapes of cellular concrete divide it into rectangular, with grooves, U-shaped, and with handles. For gables, blocks with standard dimensions according to GOST can be used - 600 x 400 (300) x 200 (300) mm or 400 x 400 (300) x 300 mm.

To make the pediment structure strong, it is reinforced with spacers and lintels . At the same time, the roof frame is made as strong and reliable as possible. The required thickness of the aerated concrete block is standard (for all external load-bearing walls) - 375 mm.

Correct calculation

In order not to make mistakes in construction, in a pre-drafted project, the necessary parameters are calculated, according to which the ratios of the parallel sides must be identical. When carrying out independent calculations, the following parameters are taken into account:

• Height . Represented by the distance from the base of the structure to its top point. This indicator is always included in the design documentation.
• Width . Shows the distance along the base of the structure - in the widest part.
• Roof slope angle . To determine it, you can use the photograph table below, created according to regulatory requirements. To find out its value, you need to measure 1 m from the edge of the pediment and the height of the slope - this will be the angle of inclination:

Area of ​​a triangle .
It is determined by the standard formula: the height is multiplied by the width and divided by 2. If there is asymmetry of the slopes, then the area of ​​each half is calculated separately and then summed up. The basic formula for calculating the pediment: S= L /2 x H, where: L is the base of the triangle (width of the building), H is the height. The use of the formula is shown in the picture below:

Area of ​​the pediment-trapezoid . Here the height is multiplied with the middle line (half the sum of the lengths along the upper and lower bases). Additionally, the area of ​​the triangular area of ​​the top is calculated using the formula described in the previous paragraph. The resulting amounts are added together to obtain the exact area of ​​the structure.

Covering a bathhouse with siding

Siding - decorative panels of a standard size: width - 22 cm, length - 125 cm. The material can be metal or vinyl, has more than 10 colors.

To cover a bathhouse made of timber with siding, you must first install a profile frame or wooden sheathing on self-tapping screws. All installation work can be done independently. The surface of the walls is carefully treated with antiseptic compounds to prevent the formation of mold and harmful microorganisms.

The siding is installed in a horizontal position with a distance of 20 cm from the foundation of the building.

Covering a bathhouse with siding has the following advantages:

However, the material has some disadvantages:

Finishing the pediment with siding yourself: calculating the amount of materials

Most often, the pediment is sheathed with the same material as the main part of the facade. For example, when a house is covered with siding, the gables are lined with the same. Then the facade will turn out to be holistic and harmonious.

But in some cases they choose a different cladding. Alternatively, this could be finishing the pediment with siding of a different color or facade panels to match the main cladding, but with the texture of stone instead of wood.

When you know exactly what material you will use, you can start calculating its quantity.

As a rule, the pediment has a triangular shape, less often – pentagonal or complex (stepped, keeled, etc.). To determine how many panels are needed for cladding, you will have to calculate its area.

If the gable is a simple triangular shape, the number of panels can be determined this way.

1. First we calculate the area of ​​the pediment. To do this, the length of the cornice must be multiplied by the height of the pediment from the ridge to the cornice and divided by two.
2. If there are windows on the gable, subtract their area from the total area.
3. Add 10-15% to trims.
4. We divide the result by the area of ​​one panel.

Let's say we have a cornice length of 4.2 m, and a pediment height of 2.4 m. There is one window 120 x 60 cm on it. Then we calculate the required number of panels as follows:

1. S = 4.2 x 2.4 / 2 = 5.04 sq. m.
2. S without windows = 5.04 – (1.2 x 0.6) = 4.32 sq. m

(Please note that the window area was indicated in centimeters, we converted it to meters).

1. 4.32 x 1.15 = 4.968 sq. m.
2. Let's say we chose green Canada Plus Premium siding from Alta-Profile for cladding. Area – 0.842 sq. m. Then the required number of panels: 4.968 / 0.842 = 5.9 pcs.

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Thus, to cover our pediment we will need 6 siding panels.

Rice. 2. If the pediment is of complex shape, its area is calculated as the sum of the areas of the simple figures of which it consists.

If the pediment has a complex shape, it is most convenient to divide it into several simple shapes: rectangles and triangles, calculate and then add up their areas.

To minimize costs, you can make a model of the pediment and distribute the panels on it in such a way as to make the most efficient use of the scraps. In addition, this model will help you when cutting panels - to minimize the risk of errors.

Please note that you need to carry out calculations and cuts very carefully: if the panel is made half a centimeter shorter, it will no longer be usable. In any case, in the place where you expected it to be located.

In addition to the panels themselves, you will need auxiliary materials. Finishing roof gable siding means that you will also need:

• Starting bar
• Finish bar
• J-profile
• Corner strips for installation on external and internal corners
• H-profile, if the length of the gable is greater than the length of the panels
• Near-window profile, if there is a window opening.

For fastening, you will also need self-tapping screws with a length of at least 25 mm, with a head diameter of 8 mm, and a rod diameter of 3 mm.

When the theoretical part of the work is completed, you can proceed directly to installation.

Bathhouse cladding with imitation timber

Imitation timber is a type of lining that is used for cladding facades. Board dimensions: thickness – 1 cm, width – from 10 to 16 cm.

A distinctive characteristic of the material is the presence of a central groove to relieve stress in the wood, which helps extend the service life of the finish.

Imitation wood is made from various species, but coniferous wood is considered the best.

The main advantages of the finishing material include:

But even such a practical material is not without significant drawbacks:

The log house of the bathhouse is sheathed horizontally with the tenon facing outwards. This type of fastening is resistant to deformation and moisture penetration. The material is mounted on a flat surface using wooden or metal sheathing. Before painting, the imitation wood is carefully sanded with fine-grain sandpaper.

Siding gables of houses

Siding is considered easy to work with, resistant to environmental influences, lightweight and reliable material. It harmonizes well with wooden facades, but worse with brick or stone ones. However, due to the wide range of textures and colors, it can sometimes be used with these two types of cladding.

If you want to cover the pediment with your own hands, then siding in this case is the best option. You will need to calculate the required amount of material and purchase it along with the fittings necessary for installation.

Then you should prepare the surface on which you are going to attach the panels. To do this, you need to clean it and get rid of cracks.

Then follows the construction of the sheathing - made of wood or metal, your choice. The final step is to secure the siding panels to the sheathing using self-tapping screws.

Covering a bathhouse with a block house

It is a type of imitation wood whose outer side is rounded. The factory technology for drying block house panels provides a standard humidity of 12%.

Advantages of a block house for external cladding:

There are practically no negative aspects to such coverage. In some cases, they are associated with a violation of installation technology or low quality wood that was used for its production.

The panels are installed on a pre-prepared wooden frame at a minimum distance from each other of 65 cm. Fixation is carried out from the foundation to the roof using self-tapping screws. The finished coating is sanded and treated with protective varnishes or paints.

Roof for the bathhouse: what for what?

The first step when building a roof on a bathhouse is to build a supporting structure, which consists of rafters and purlins. After this, you need to equip the roof with sheathing and a special waterproofing layer.

You need to start work by laying support beams on top of the wall, which will act as a support. If the project plans to build an attic, then the beams need to be fixed in the sockets. In this case, the fastening of the beams must be strictly horizontal.

Rafters are attached to the support, which are most often beams, logs or boards. They are fastened using special wooden or metal plates. The rafters should be placed not too far from each other - a distance of no more than 1 meter is considered optimal.

Further actions depend on what roofing material was chosen. If it is rolled, then you should start constructing a wooden panel on the frame. If you plan to use tiles or slate, you will need to do lathing. To do this, a board is fixed parallel to the roof ridge, to which beams are nailed at equal distances.

The ridge itself is closed either with galvanized iron or with special blanks. The gables can be covered with clapboard, siding or any other material. All that remains is to cover the roof with the selected roofing material.

Insulating the roof of a bathhouse is a simple and at the same time necessary process. The easiest way is to lay thermal insulation material in the openings between the rafters. Its thickness should not be less than 200 mm.

If you have any doubts about the type of roof and the choice of roofing material, you can look at various photos of a bathhouse roof on the Internet and choose the ideal option for yourself.

Finishing the bathhouse with wooden clapboard

The traditional material for exterior finishing is wooden lining. This facade has an aesthetic and modern appearance and fits well with any architectural style.

Finishing the outside of a bathhouse with wooden clapboard has the following advantages:

Before decorative finishing, the outer walls of the bathhouse are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics, which do not contain hazardous components.

The sequence of cladding with wooden lining involves the preliminary preparation of a frame made of thin wooden slats. The lathing is fixed to the bath strictly according to the level to prevent possible deformation of the finishing material. The outer boards are installed first, then the central part is filled.

The lathing is mounted on screws or nails. Additionally, each slatted structure is treated with an antiseptic compound to protect against rotting. The gaps between the slats are filled with wooden inserts or wedges.

Wooden lining strips are mounted on the finished sheathing, with the first part being installed horizontally and strictly level. At the bottom, the lining is fixed with nails or screws, and in the center - with a hidden fastener.

Finally, a properly sheathed bathhouse frame can be treated with varnish or a coloring composition of the desired shade.

How to sew up a roof gable: types of materials for sewing

Pediment-end wall of a house under the roof eaves

The roof is done, the gables can be sewn up.

How to sew up the gables of the roof so that they last a long time, so that they do not require annual maintenance or repairs, and so that the appearance is attractive?!

First, let’s remember what gables were sewn up with in the old days:

• unedged board
• edged board
• clapboard

The last option was the most scarce in Soviet times, and people with good salaries and great connections could afford to cover the gables with clapboard.

In the villages, no one bothered with beauty and design: they covered it with a simple unedged board or slab. The attic space is closed from wind and snow, which means everything is fine.

The lining with boards was done vertically, horizontally or diagonally. The herringbone looked good: short boards diagonally towards each other.

It is clear that over time the wood turned black from moisture and lost its natural color, so the townspeople who looked after the appearance of a house or bathhouse tried to paint wooden surfaces. But previously there were no special antiseptic compounds, so it was often lime or oil paint, which needed to be updated from time to time.

Now, with the advent of modern wooden and plastic materials, as well as new various painting compositions for wood, various options for lining gables are possible:

1. edged board
2. wooden clapboard
3. block house
4. plastic lining
5. vinyl siding

Covering the bathhouse with plastic panels

To quickly and cheaply cover a frame bathhouse, you can use decorative plastic panels. The plastic facade has an attractive appearance, and its performance characteristics are not inferior to siding.

Plastic panels have the following advantages:

Despite the positive aspects, such material is not without its disadvantages:

Plastic panels are mounted on a pre-installed slatted frame. Before starting work, the surface of the bathhouse is carefully treated with compounds to protect against fire and rotting.

Benefits of wood

Despite the many advantages of vinyl or metal siding, many people prefer less durable and more vulnerable wood. Sometimes - in the format of the same standard panels, installed according to the scheme that has already been described above.

But wooden cladding materials that are more difficult to work with are often used. In other words, people continue to choose wood, despite its capriciousness, relatively low protective characteristics and high price. Why?

It's all about how aesthetically attractive this material is. It visually seems warm, alive, real. In addition, wood goes well with various decorative details, stone, brick, and glass surfaces. Fits well into almost any architectural style.

Vinyl siding cannot boast of this. This is why wood remains relevant, despite all its imperfections and the emergence of new modern materials.

Finishing the bath with warm plaster

An alternative option for finishing the facade of a bathhouse is warm plaster, which is a solution based on cement, expanded clay chips, perlite sand, powdered pumice and granulated foam.

Facade plaster has many advantages:

The disadvantages of the material include the following:

The plaster is applied to the cleaned surface manually or by machine. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Recommendations for selecting siding

Rice.
11. The house is covered with facade panels, and the pediment is covered with siding to match the main finish. Any type of siding is suitable for cladding the pediment: wood, metal, fiber cement or polymer (PVC siding or polypropylene facade panels). The advantages and disadvantages of each of them are shown in the table.

Wood siding

Metal siding

Fiber cement siding

Polymer siding

Wood absorbs moisture, this spoils its appearance and performance characteristics.

Under normal conditions, metal siding is not afraid of water. But if the protective coating is damaged, it may rust.

Resistant to moisture.

Resistant to moisture.

Corrosion, incl. biological

Susceptible to infection by fungi and mold.

If the protective layer is damaged, it may rust.

If wood has absorbed moisture when it freezes, it will deteriorate.

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Selection and calculation of material

There are three types of block houses for the exterior design of houses:

Most often, a wooden block house is used to imitate a real log house. The appearance of natural wood, its ability to “breathe” and its special atmosphere cannot be replaced by any other materials.

To purchase the required amount of material, you need to accurately calculate how much it will be needed to cover the gable with a block house. To do this, we calculate the area of ​​one plank by simply multiplying its length by its width. Next, we calculate the area of ​​the gable that needs to be covered; in most cases, the usual mathematical formula is used to calculate S of a trapezoid or triangle, depending on the shape of the roof. We divide the area of ​​the gable by the area of ​​the house block and get the required amount for one side, multiply by 2 and go shopping. It’s better to buy several more bars, there is always a risk of spoiling it or miscalculating somewhere.

Phased construction

Before starting the construction of the pediment, calculations are made after coordinating the project with a specialist. First, determine the height of the roof at the ridge, and then calculate its area . In this case, the proportions of the height of the pediment structure and the wall are determined as 1:1.

A step-by-step guide to constructing an aerated concrete pediment consists of the following nuances.

Installing the B-pillar

After determining the area, the end walls are marked. For triangular structures, you need to find the middle of the lower leg, and fix the rail in it - this is the center of the pediment.

Arrangement of side braces

From the top of the slats to the edge of the facade on one and the other side you need to pull construction cords along which you will need to find 2 triangle lines for laying the lower rows.

Masonry

The lower rows are laid on cement-sand mortar, excess parts of the blocks are removed with a hacksaw, strictly according to the markings. The laying takes place in a checkerboard pattern, in the same way as the walls were laid - with bandaging and the use of reinforcement every 2-3 rows, up to the 4th. The following rows can be laid on glue or foam.

Installation of openings

To install an attic window, you need to lay rows of aerated concrete to the marked height of the window opening, make the markings again, and place the window frame on blocks that need to be placed close to it.

Billet for ridge

Using a plumb line (needed to determine the central mark along which a wooden block of 50 x 50 mm is fixed - its length should be equal to the height of the pediment).
It must be secured to the top of the block with a self-tapping screw. A rod made of metal or wood is placed up along it - this will be the ridge along which the blocks will be laid nearby.

We screw the stand plumb, strictly vertically . In the ridge area, in the center of the roof beam, you need to drill two or more holes in the wall for vertical fastenings. The stand itself is also screwed vertically using a plumb line.

Holes are made in the blocks that coincide with the metal reinforcement. And after the 3rd row of anchor blocks, they are cut so that 5 cm remains for cutting threads on their surface. Then metal plates are placed on the top of the anchors and the process continues.

Laying the top bevels

They are laid out above the windows (if there is one in the project) in 2 rows. Before applying the solution, reinforcement mesh or rods with a thickness of 12 mm or more are laid on them. They are made with support boards, which can be pulled out after finishing the masonry. But often they are left directly in the wall and walled up.

Laying the top edge

Mount rigid removable supports . Along the bevels, rows of blocks are laid, sawn from standard ones - for the convenience of forming grooves.

Parallel masonry

The parallel structure is made in the same way as one of the sides. In addition to the oblique braces, be sure to tighten the horizontal cord, which marks the ridge girder, to prevent deformation.

Blocks can be trimmed during work or after laying them - as you wish. The main thing is to get smooth slopes of the walls under the roof. Therefore, the evenness of the markings is given such great importance, in which construction cords help well. If the process results in roughness or unevenness of the wall, you can always sand them with a trowel for aerated concrete.

Important ! When building a pediment, a row of gas blocks under and above the window, a row of armored belts and the top edge must be reinforced.

Tools and consumables for work

To install a pediment made of cellular concrete, the following consumables and tools will be needed :

1. Structural autoclaved gas blocks of rectangular and U-shape of the selected size, with a density rating of D500 and above.
2. Plumb line, level (regular or laser), construction cords, wooden beams (for marking).
3. Screwdriver, drill, anchors, screws and other fasteners, nails, construction hammer, rubber mallet, aerated concrete float or grinder, hacksaw.
4. Sand-cement mortar (dry components ready-made or separately - cement grades M400-M500, river sand, crushed stone or gravel, plasticizers) for the 1st layer.
5. Glue or foam for the 2nd and subsequent layers.
6. Trowel, spatulas, construction mixer, containers for solutions.

If a person does not build a building with his own hands, then the construction company with which he draws up an agreement will provide the consumables itself, according to the estimate. Any company also has construction working tools.

Finishing work

There are more than enough options here. But it is advisable to combine the finishing with insulation, which is usually done with foam plastic - just like for walls - they are glued to the surface of the blocks and fixed with special dowels for insurance. Next, a mesh of fiberglass sits on the glue.

Now you can proceed directly to finishing. The easiest way is to use decorative putty, of which there are plenty of varieties in both texture and color in retail, so choosing the right option will not be difficult.

Finishing with siding is also a very popular option, but here you will have to face some difficulties. First, you will need to install a frame of wooden slats under the siding. Secondly, you will need the appropriate skills, and thirdly, this option will cost you much more, especially if you involve the labor of specialists.

Brick cladding is the most expensive and labor-intensive type of pediment cladding, but here you can do without a layer of insulation or reduce its thickness. But when using decorative bricks, the pediment will look quite attractive, and the reliability and durability of such cladding will be much higher.

Advantages of using aerated concrete blocks

The advantages of a pediment aerated concrete structure are as follows::

• 
  Resistant, dense, strong, fire-resistant, reliable, warm part of the house, thanks to the quality characteristics of the material.

• Easy installation, transportation and cutting of cellular aerated concrete.
• The low cost of aerated blocks is a real money saver (cheaper than brick, wood, cinder block).
• High speed of work due to low weight, instant setting, especially when using foam.
• Less load on the foundation of the building.
• A good combination with any type of exterior or interior decoration.
• Stable in any terrain.
• Effective protection against external irritants of a mechanical, atmospheric and climatic nature.

The disadvantages include:

• The need for additional protection (external).
• The need for additional fastening (anchoring).

Aerated concrete is light, durable, dense, heat-insulating, fireproof, frost-resistant materials, so the advantages of constructing a pediment from them are much higher than from other materials.

What should you pay attention to when designing a pediment?

As a rule, the main causes of failures of pediment walls are errors that were made when they were calculated and the project was drawn up.
Designers often do not pay attention to the fact that gable structures require additional reinforcement. When creating a project, you need to take into account that some of them will experience increased loads caused by winds during operation. When designing the pediment of a building, you need to take into account:

• Its direction relative to the cardinal points, wind speed and roof type
• The height of the house above sea level
• Characteristics of the area where construction needs to be done
• Resistance of the building to maximum gusts of wind

When determining these parameters, it should be taken into account that the geometry of the structure may change during different periods of operation. As a result, the area of ​​many structural elements, including the pediment, which are exposed to winds, also changes.

The aerodynamic coefficient of a finished building with a residential attic should be about 0.7. When erected, the pediment walls have triangular-shaped fragments.

They experience the same effects as sails in the wind. Therefore, any experienced designer who knows what a gable on a roof is, when drawing up drawings, includes an aerodynamic coefficient of 1.4-1.6 in them.

The strength characteristics of gable walls depend largely on their width and height. Low walls are stronger and more stable than high and thin walls.

Therefore, there is no need to strengthen them with additional structures. The high tong is unstable, so it can collapse even from a weak blow. As a result, such walls need to be strengthened.

Important Construction Aspects

In modern low-rise construction, the problem of cracking on gable walls, and even their collapse, often arises. This circumstance can be explained by the fact that lightweight building materials are used for the construction.

They are very popular due to the fact that they have excellent thermal insulation properties. But some of the modern building structures cannot withstand strong wind loads. Therefore, pediments cannot be built from them.

The walls of old residential buildings were built of brick and had a thickness of 38-41 cm, sometimes 25-27 cm. Additional structures were often used to strengthen them - pilasters, cornices. Therefore, the density of such walls was more than 800 kg/m².

In the construction of modern buildings, double-layer walls are often used, the load-bearing part of which is cellular concrete or ceramic blocks. Their thickness is rarely more than 25 cm. Buildings with single-layer walls are more durable, because their thickness is from 36 to 44 cm.

The strongest low-rise buildings now have three-layer walls. They have increased resistance to wind loads, their thickness ranges from 39 to 54 cm.

Before you make the gables of the bathhouse roof, you must take into account that if the wall has windows or there is a balcony with a door on the second floor, then it will experience increased exposure to winds.

Installation of sheathing, insulation and moisture protection

Covering the gable with a block house begins with installing the base, and there are two ways:

Experts recommend choosing the second option - lathing from beams. In addition to the reliability of the design due to the use of strong and reliable natural wood, this form of installation allows you to install the required amount of insulation and protection from moisture, while leaving ventilation gaps.

Eurolining can be installed from any direction, creating a pattern; it is better not to experiment with a block house. This type of lamella is so self-sufficient that any attempt to lay out a pattern makes the building pretentious and even ridiculous. The block house is attached only horizontally with the tenon up, which means the main direction of the wooden sheathing is vertical, opposite to the lamellas.

To cover the pediment with a block house, we carry out preliminary preparation of the wall as follows:

Possible difficulties and errors

Errors or difficulties in construction may arise in the following cases:

1. Purchase of low-quality materials (blocks, glue, foam, fittings). It is necessary to pay attention to certified material and guarantees from trusted manufacturers. Here, saving and purchasing fakes is not appropriate.
2. Errors in designs and calculations , especially in load distribution. Cracks may appear, which will then need to be eliminated with the help of additional investments and the expenditure of your own time. To create a project and the correct drawings, it is better to contact specialists.
3. Refusal of reinforcement . Supporting the gable wall with steel rods will strengthen the wall many times over and distribute the load evenly. So the structure with reinforcement will last for many years and will never collapse.
4. Failure to comply with technological standards, which relate to the selection of consumables, installation of walls and the sequence of construction stages. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to comply with the requirements of a number of GOSTs regarding the quality of aerated blocks and construction with them:
   GOST R 57334-2016/EN 771-4:2011;
5. SP 339.1325800.2017;
6. STO 501-52-01-2007.
7. Failure to comply with the temperature conditions for masonry and work. Most experts believe that it is more advisable to carry out construction work in dry weather, with atmospheric temperatures starting from +5 °C.

Since gas blocks are the basis for the construction of the pediment, the greatest attention is paid to them.
Firstly, the color of the material matters. It should not be yellowish - only light gray.

Yellowness indicates that the material was manufactured with violations , and its composition contains a huge amount of sand, which is unacceptable for the composition according to GOST, and indicates a fake, and not high-quality work from the manufacturer.

The appearance of the gas block is also of great importance. If it has large cells, then it has low density, and for fronts D should be as dense as possible. The higher the indicators, the stronger and more durable the wall will be - this is the main requirement for the structural type of cellular material.