Correct installation of a stove in a wooden house - step-by-step guide

A wooden house (dacha), not connected to central heating, needs a heat source that allows it to be lived in at any time of the year. Traditionally, fireplaces or stoves are used for these purposes, which can have a variety of designs.

The order of arrangement of stoves in a wooden house is regulated by current standards (SNiP), and is also specifically stipulated by fire safety requirements.

By what principles is the installation location determined?

It is worth understanding that the question of where the stove should be located in the house is extremely important and responsible, and therefore it is worth approaching the search for an answer to it with special care.
The principles for determining the location are as follows:

1. Any stove should be located as close as possible to the central part of the house so that the external chimney pipe does not extend far from the ridge.
2. The correct location of the device will be if there are no other communications under it, for example, water supply.
3. When installing two furnaces in one zone, it is better to construct a foundation for each in order to protect yourself from the rapid destruction of the products.

Location of the pipe relative to the ridge of the house
In addition, it is worth clearly understanding that one structure must heat at least two rooms, otherwise its installation will not be advisable.

Based

Let’s say it’s impossible to place the stove directly on the floor. There is nothing to do, we need to lay the foundation for it. Typical diagrams of foundations for furnaces are shown in Fig. Don’t let the base for a brick stove go to the side: suddenly you will have to install a stove with an external firebox in a partition; its portal will take about the same amount of bricks as a Dutch stove of 3.5 bricks, and the requirements for uniform shrinkage of the base at the half-brick-thick portal are even stricter.

Typical foundation diagrams for furnaces

Both of these foundations have a common drawback: they require an opening in the floor. Meanwhile, installing a stove in a house, and even more so in non-residential premises, is possible without disturbing the supporting structure of the floor - if the stove is made of steel. Its requirements for uniform subsidence of the base are much more modest, and such a furnace can be installed on a pile foundation laid through the flooring. Brick cladding is not a hindrance here, because... An L- or U-shaped low structure will withstand the same tilt.

A diagram of the pile foundation of the furnace, which you can build with your own hands through the floor, is given above in the following. rice. The soil under the building should not be subsident, waterlogged, excessively heaving or peaty/silty. The first thing you pay attention to is the depth of the piles. It was chosen not only according to the standard freezing depth of the soil, but also to ensure the most uniform subsidence of the piles individually. Under a brick stove, the piles would have to be buried 2.3-2.5 m, which is unrealistic through the floor, but a metal stove on this foundation will stand securely.

Diagram of the device and procedure for constructing a pile foundation for a furnace through the floor

The second is cellulose (from the so-called ecowool) insulation. In this case, it prevents not only the floor from becoming damp, but also from ignition from sparks or coals. Ecowool is a non-flammable material. Moreover, when heated, it releases a large amount of vapor of latent water of crystallization, which is not unnecessary if there is a cavity under the furnace. Step by step, a pile foundation for a stove in an existing house is installed, as shown in pos. 1-10 fig.

Step 1

We prepare a steel supporting frame (grillage) according to pos. 1. It is better to take option B for planting it on the pile anchors: this way the piles will have to be positioned with a slight offset, but there will be no need to drill thick pieces of iron. Dimensions in plan – along the contour of the stove together with the brick lining/cladding + (7-10) cm around the perimeter.

Step 2

If the building does not have detailed and reliable construction drawings, it will be necessary to remove part of the finished flooring and, possibly, the subfloor to accurately determine the location of the joists and floor joists, pos. 2. A tedious task, but still better than excavating a room.

Step 3

We mark the places for the piles so that they are no closer than 70-80 mm to the joists and beams, and drill pioneer holes through both floor coverings, pos. 3.

Step 4

In the clean floor, use a compass drill to drill holes for the piles, pos. 4.

Step 5

We remove the clean floor and drill holes for the piles in the subfloor, pos. 5. If the subfloor for insulation is covered with expanded clay, etc., rake it to the sides and insert temporary shells made of rolled galvanized sheets into the holes. At the same step, we drill holes for the piles with a garden drill. If the house is on weak and/or loose soil (bearing capacity less than 0.7 kgf/sq. cm), you can use a TISE drill and lay a TISE pile foundation.

Step 6

We lay the pile foundation (item 6) using standard technology:

• We fill the wells with a sand and crushed stone cushion of 20 cm each. In layers of 10 cm, with a tamper, as expected.
• We insert clips made of rolled roofing material into pipes into the wells, align them vertically and cut them at the top at a level of +100 mm from the level of the finished floor. “For coolness” you can put asbestos-cement pipes on the clips, but you will have to cut them with a grinder with a squeal and a lot of dust. Piles made of steel pipes without concreting are unsuitable in this case, because too light to shrink sufficiently evenly on their own.
• We insert reinforcement cages into the well cages.
• We fill the pile cages with concrete (in layers of 15 cm with hydraulic compaction) and immediately wall up anchors made of 10-16 mm steel rod into their heads. If the rods are smooth, their lower ends must be bent in a U-shape and walled up to a depth of 15 cm. We do not bend anchors made of corrugated reinforcement bars, but wall them up to a depth of 30 cm. The upper ends of the anchors must protrude no less than the height of the grillage channel.

Step 7

Once the concrete has completely hardened (there is no need to wait for strength gain yet), we cut off the clips from the piles to the level of the subfloor and lay soaked ecowool around the piles 15-25 cm to the sides, or to the nearest joist, pos. 7. The layer of raw ecowool should protrude 6-8 cm above the joists.

Step 8

Using wet and still soft ecowool we restore the clean floor, pos. 8. Cut off the squeezed out excess insulation when dry.

Step 9

We arrange fire-fighting cutting; Coat the seams between the ceiling sheet and the piles with a solution of fatty clay and sand 1:1 or the like. fire-resistant composition. Next, we place a grillage on the anchors and weld them. We cut off the protrusions of the anchors. Then we place a steel sheet on the grillage (item 9) and weld it along the contour with clamps. From under the bottom to the corner you don’t have to cook it, it’s very inconvenient and won’t add strength to the structure. I would like to secure the steel flooring “for reliability” - you can use metal screws with conical heads on top.

Step 10

Using basalt cardboard, we lay a backing on the steel flooring for the brick furnace pad, as described above (item 10; see also below).

Furnace pillow

The brick pad of a metal furnace experiences a “thermal swing” greater than that of a brick furnace. Therefore, it needs to be laid in 2-3 rows with complete symmetrical bandaging of the seams in the row and between the rows, on the left in Fig. Bandaging a stove cushion of complex configuration in this way, especially with a portal, is far from easy. In this case, up to 2 untied seams are allowed, located symmetrically on both sides of the longitudinal axis of the pillow as close to its middle as possible; shown by green arrows in the center in Fig. An untied stove cushion (on the right in the figure) is a gross hack. After 2-3-5 years, the bricks of such a cushion can crawl out from under the stove, and cracks in it - a source of fire hazard - are guaranteed even earlier.

Correct and incorrect bandaging of masonry seams in a brick furnace pad

Waterproofing of 2 layers of roofing felt is applied to the stove cushion and again a backing for the brickwork made of basalt cardboard. The traditional option - waterproofing between the foundation and the cushion without a basalt backing - is designed for an entirely brick oven, because The cushion bricks in it begin to crumble later than the stove bricks. For a cushion under an adjustable metal stove, for safety reasons, it is necessary on the contrary, so that the pillow deteriorates faster than the stove body burns out.

Varieties and types of fireplaces

Depending on the material used, fireplaces are:

• steel or cast iron;
• stone;
• brick.

Steel or cast iron. Fireplaces with a metal firebox consist of a glass door. As a result, in appearance they look like both a stove and a fireplace. Such equipment is in demand due to its availability, compactness and speed of installation.

Steel or cast iron fireboxes are incorporated into decorative fireplaces made of wood, stone and brick. Drywall is used to disguise the chimney.

Stone is rarely found in residential premises, since the installation process is quite complex and lengthy. In addition, a stone fireplace needs a special foundation. For this reason, it is recommended to install it in larger rooms.

Fireplaces made of stove bricks also have large dimensions and require the construction of a foundation that is separate from the base of the walls. Thanks to the unique properties and characteristics of the material, uniform and pleasant heating of the entire room is ensured.

Despite the high heat capacity of stove bricks, the fireplace must be insulated from the wall. To do this, the thickness of the masonry closest to the wall must be at least 25 cm. In addition, the outermost masonry is insulated from the walls of a wooden house using vermiculite, basalt wool and perlite.

Fireplaces of all sizes and types ideally complement the interior of any living space with their sophistication, atmosphere, warmth and comfort.

Depending on the fuel used, fireplaces are:

• Wood-burning. They use real logs to make them work. Fuel needs to be prepared and a storage location provided. And clean the fireplace itself after each use.
• Gas. They can operate on mains or bottled gas. To install gas-using equipment, a permit is required, and for connection, a representative of the gas service is required. Maintenance is extremely simple.
• Electrical. Easy to operate and run. They are powered from an outlet, but with daily use, the monthly electricity consumption is considerable.
• Eco-fireplaces are easy to maintain and use. They are safe, but their cost is quite high.

There are many options for placing a fireplace in a wooden house. Basically, it depends on the location and its shape.

Corner fireplaces fit perfectly into the free space in the corner of the room, helping to make the most of every square meter.

By type of location, fireplaces are divided into:

• Isolated. Most often they are installed as a separate part of the interior. Insulated fireplaces come in all shapes and are often placed right in the center of the living room because they require a lot of space.
• Direct. Quite popular at the moment. They can be built-in or attached to the wall.
• Angular. Fireplaces of this type are very compact and fit harmoniously into the interior design. They come in small sizes, so their use in small wooden houses is recommended.

Direct fireplaces are divided into built-in and wall-mounted. Built-in ones are often installed between two rooms. Their power allows you to warm both rooms. As for wall-mounted ones, they are placed against the wall and do not require much space.

Fire safety requirements (FPR)

The PPB requirements stipulate the conditions under which correct installation of any type of furnace equipment is possible. To a greater extent, they relate to the protection of the floor and walls of the building from accidental fire (due to contact of wood with hot surfaces).

The following protective measures will ensure the safety of housing and people:

1. The use of special fire-resistant materials that protect the walls and ceiling in the area where the stove and chimney are located (if the house is two-story, the ceiling between floors should also be protected);
2. Impregnation of elements of wooden structures bordering the hot parts of the furnace with special compounds.

Compliance with all fire safety requirements and proper use of fire protection equipment is the main condition for the safe operation of home heating equipment.

Video description

Video example of professional installation of a metal fireplace in a finished wooden house:

All work can be divided into main stages:

• Construction of the foundation. It is isolated from the foundation of the house, but is poured simultaneously with the latter even before the construction of housing begins. If it is necessary to introduce a fireplace into an already completed structure, craftsmen remove the floor covering and dismantle part of the ceilings. The depth of the pit should reach the freezing line of the soil; a layer of crushed stone and broken brick is formed at the bottom. The finished height of the formwork should exceed the floor level by 10 cm. When pouring the solution, reinforcing ligaments are used, leveled, and waterproofed after hardening.
• Preparing the walls. They are sheathed with insulating materials, often in multilayer form. The sheets are fixed on metal guides, the joints are sealed using adhesive foil tape. An alternative solution for insulation could be additional brickwork laid flush against the wall.
• Fireplace assembly. The masonry is carried out according to the project, starting from the base, using a special heat-resistant mortar. The internal surfaces are formed from refractory bricks, the rest from solid bricks. The components that form the firebox and door are gradually introduced.

Assembling a fireplace in a wooden houseSource et.aviarydecor.com

Formation of the chimney. It can be internal, passing through the ceiling up to the roof, or external, removing combustion products from the fireplace. In the first case, a combination of two pipes inserted into one another is used

At this stage, special attention is paid to sealing.

Floor finishing. The space around the fireplace with a radius of up to 150 cm is protected using non-combustible materials - marble, porcelain stoneware, facing tiles.

A budget finishing solution is metal sheets. But over time they become uneven and give the room a utilitarian look.

Ceiling and wall protection in the form of sheathing

In addition to treating elements of wooden structures with fire retardants and mastics, they can be protected from the hot parts of metal furnaces by covering them with fire-resistant materials. When preparing for this procedure, it should be taken into account that the ceiling lining in the area of ​​the roof outlet is carried out only with non-combustible materials that do not spoil the interior of the room.

Important! It is strictly prohibited to use flammable panels for upholstery.

The optimal cladding option is gypsum fiber boards treated with fire-resistant putty. To protect the walls, basalt cardboard can be used, covered with steel sheets on top. Most often, special decorative screens made of stainless steel are used. They not only protect surfaces well from burning, but also look quite aesthetically pleasing.

Another option for protecting walls from hot stove parts involves covering them with bricks placed on edge.

TOP design ideas: what a fireplace might look like in a wooden house

The budget category of projects is based on the use of ready-made metal fireplaces. For their harmonious implementation, it is enough to calculate the compatibility of the models with the characteristics of a particular structure, create a foundation, install components and lay the chimney. Such solutions do not always look like the notorious potbelly stoves: manufacturers offer an assortment of elegant products that can fit into both urban and classic interiors.

A laconic copy that only needs proper installation. Source pinterest.com.au

Models mounted in a niche trimmed with stone/brick, on a pedestal, are recognized as slightly more complex in terms of labor and material costs.

Here, when designing, it is necessary to take into account the load created by the materialSource fumat.lt

A fireplace in a wooden house, assembled according to an individual design project, belongs to the premium segment. Non-standard shapes predominate here - fireplaces in the form of an elongated oval, having a decorative panel framing the firebox, or a vertical orientation of the active zone.

Stylish solution implemented into the heating system of the houseSource pechiexpert.ru

Stages of fireplace construction

After familiarizing yourself with all fire safety requirements and proper installation, the process of constructing a fireplace becomes clearer. But, in addition to this, it is necessary to take into account all the features of a wooden house and select the optimal building materials. Let's look at this using the example of a brick fireplace.

Stage #1 - necessary materials

The following materials are required for its construction:

• Fire-resistant and solid stove bricks, grates, doors, dampers.
• Fireproof materials for floor coverings (ceramic tiles, sheet iron).
• Basalt slabs, mineral insulation sheets (with reflective screen) for walls.
• Chimney (sandwich, ceramic or other), fire-resistant wool.

When constructing a fireplace, it is necessary to protect the wood from the potential threat of fire.

When all the building materials and a rough work plan are ready, you can safely begin work. However, you need to take into account the nuances of each stage of work.

Stage #2 - foundation construction

Before installing the foundation, a special place for the fireplace is prepared. It is advisable to provide for this point during the construction of the house. Otherwise, it is necessary to dismantle the required part of the floor covering.

Now you can start digging a pit. Crushed stone, stones and brick remains are poured into the bottom. The formwork must be more than 10 cm above the floor surface.

Next, the reinforcement is installed and the mortar is poured, the surface is leveled as much as possible. It must dry and only then can you continue installing the fireplace.

Proper installation of the fireplace foundation will ensure safety in the room, so it is extremely important to familiarize yourself with the diagram in advance and follow the recommendations

Stage #3 - assembling the fireplace itself

In addition to bricks, the fireplace will also need grates, a glass or regular door, and dampers.

Brick laying should be carried out on the basis of a pre-developed fireplace diagram. It is optimal if this is done by a builder with experience in bricklaying. It is recommended to use a solution that can withstand high temperatures.

When laying fireplace bricks, there is no particular need to rush, but it is best to act as carefully, carefully and leisurely as possible

Stage #4 - installation of the chimney

This stage is one of the most important - a well-constructed chimney guarantees safe operation and good ventilation. Experienced craftsmen recommend installing chimneys with outlets to the outside. Smoke must not be vented to the second floor or attic.

When choosing materials for a chimney, it is important to take into account the temperature difference inside it. After all, the temperature of gases sometimes reaches 400 °C or more.

This can be a double-circuit or steel pipe (if the gas temperature is up to 400 °C), brick, ceramic pipe, fire-resistant glass. It all depends on the design of the fireplace and the personal preferences of the owner.

When installing a chimney, it is important to leave a gap between the chimney and the ceilings of at least 15 cm. When passing through the ceilings, the chimney is additionally insulated with fireproof material.

If the chimney is brick, then it is constructed according to the same scheme as the fireplace itself. A solution with high heat resistance is prepared, and the bricks are laid according to a previously drawn up pattern. Particular attention is paid to the tightness of the structure. We recommend that you read the detailed instructions for laying a chimney.

If the fireplace is installed incorrectly, the fuel will burn poorly and the firebox will smoke. In some cases, improper installation can cause a fire.

When installing a fireplace chimney, it is important to leave a gap between the chimney and the ceilings, which will be at least 15 cm

Even if desired, it is impossible to install a chimney that does not require constant cleaning. Over time, soot forms on its inner surface, which must be removed.

Preparing for assembly

Before installing a stove in a country house with a pipe exiting through the wall, you need to prepare. Work requires special clothing and gloves. If you will be cutting metal products, it is advisable to wear safety glasses.

Selection of tools and materials

To complete the work, the following tools are required:

• drill, equipment for cutting material;
• heat-resistant sealant;
• riveter;
• clamps, dowels, corners;
• foil construction tape;
• screwdrivers;
• level, plumb;
• knife;
• ladder;
• When working with concrete walls, you will need a hammer drill.

Components for installing a chimneySource vse-postroim-sami.ru

The materials required are a steel pipe, with which the horizontal fragment is connected to the boiler. You also need a tee for connecting pipes, an elbow (with its help the structure is directed upward), and a support console. Brackets and dowels are used to mount products on the wall. The connection of several pipes is carried out using clamps. You also need thermal insulation material and a protective cap.

Choosing a location

The house has central and side walls. The second is located on the side of the slopes and under the roof overhangs. Liquid gets onto this part when it rains (if the drainage system is not fixed). There is a small roof overhang above the central walls, so the risk of liquid entering from the roof is minimal.

It is better to mount the smoke exhaust structure on the front wall. Here it is taken into account that there should be no windows or balconies on it along the line of the chimney. If you have to install a pipe through an overhang, then high-quality fire protection is installed.

Choosing a location for the chimney outlet through the wallSource stroychik.ru

Calculation of chimney height

Since it is possible to correctly bring a chimney through a wall to the street in a wooden house only if technical requirements are met, the first parameter that is taken into account is the height of the structure. It depends on the number of floors of the house. If the height of the building does not exceed 5 m, then the minimum parameter for the height of the structure is 5 m. If this value is neglected, the structure in the house will smoke in the house, the draft will deteriorate, and the performance of the heating device will decrease.

If the pipe is too long, fuel consumption will increase. When the height of a building exceeds 10 m, the main reference point is its ridge: it should be 0.5 m below the chimney. This characteristic is affected by the cross-section of the pipes and the power of the heating equipment.

Chimney heightSource vosaduly.ru

Pipe diameter calculation

The internal diameter of the structure must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe. Any narrowing of the internal volume of the pipe affects the formation of draft. The presented value is affected by the power of the equipment: the higher it is, the larger the internal diameter. You need to follow standard building rules:

If we take into account all the technological features of installation, the structure will last for decades without significant problems.

Brick cladding

To get rid of the harsh radiation of the metal, the stove can be lined with brick. The work is carried out in the following order:

• A power calculation of the floor is required. The weight of the structure reaches 0.5 tons.
• The distance between the metal wall and the brickwork is up to 8 cm.
• If the floor is wooden, an iron sheet 4 mm thick and asbestos are laid on it.
• Concrete floors do not require additional preparation.
• The wall thickness is half a brick. It is placed on a mixture of cement and sand.
• In each row, holes are left at the height of the brick for air exchange.

The process of installing a stove in a country house with your own hands requires certain skills. Calculations and layout must first be carried out. Knowing the necessary parameters, you need to purchase equipment and install it.

Where is the best place to install it in the house?

You can stop at a place that is clearly visible from the outside, or at some inconspicuous corner. The main criterion for choosing a place for a good potbelly stove is access to it from literally all sides. The user needs to check whether everything is in order with the device during use.

Try to stick to this pattern

There should be at least half a meter between the pawn, the wall and other objects, including furniture, pipes, etc. This rule must be observed due to the fact that a potbelly stove for a summer house will get very hot, up to 500 degrees (usually up to 200-300, but the result depends on the features of the installation).

What types of surfaces are suitable for installing a potbelly stove for home on it:

ceramic tile; concrete floor; brick flooring (natural or synthetic composition - there is a difference, so it is better to approach substitutes and artificial imitators with caution); tin covering.

An example of installing a potbelly stove in a house

On what surfaces is it prohibited to place a potbelly stove in a country house:

• laminate;
• linoleum;
• soft coverings;
• parquet;
• a floor made of boards (wood, chipboard, fiberboard - does not matter, it is prohibited to install on any wooden surface).

Why is this restriction in place? A potbelly stove in a country house can cause a fire by constantly coming into contact with incompatible material for a long, and sometimes even short, time.

When choosing a place for a potbelly stove in a country house, you need to take into account the height of the room. Choose points that allow you to install the chimney pipe in a vertical position without the need to make joints, turns, or slopes. Please note that you will have to open the door to add fuel, so there must be enough space for the person adding fuel.

More installation examples in the photo:

Photo 1

Photo 2

Photo 3

Wood processing

The most common protective agents include special impregnations (fire retardants) and transparent mastics. The following elements of wooden structures are usually processed by them:

• ceiling beams;
• floorboards in the area where the stove is installed;
• walls adjacent to it.

Additional Information! When choosing products, you must keep in mind that mastic has a higher fire protection rating than colorless impregnation.

Fire retardant treatment of wood elements can be carried out not only by representatives of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, but also by the owners of the house themselves. In the second case, they will need to obtain a special certificate confirming the correct installation of the stove.

Manufacturing recommendations

The easiest way is to make a small portable stove with your own hands - the Robinson rocket, whose drawing is presented below. You will need cutting profile pipes, metal for legs and stands, as well as welding skills. Moreover, compliance with the exact dimensions indicated in the drawing is not necessary. You can take pipes of a different section, but you just need to reduce or increase them proportionally so that the parts fit together.

Drawing of an improved “Robinson” camping stove with nozzles made of a profile pipe, cut lengthwise into 2 parts

The most common versions of large rocket stoves are made from a gas cylinder or a two-hundred-liter metal barrel. You must understand that these ready-made elements are used as an outer hood, and the internal parts of the stove must be made from pipes of smaller diameter or laid out from fireclay bricks. Moreover, from a cylinder you can make both a stationary heater with a small bench, and a unit that can be moved.

Please note that calculating the thermal power of a rocket-type furnace is quite difficult; there is no single calculation method. It’s easier to rely on ready-made drawings of already working samples and assemble according to them. You just need to compare the dimensions of the future stove with the dimensions of the heated room. For example, to heat a small room, the size of a cylinder is enough; in other cases, it is better to take a large barrel. The selection of internal parts for them is shown in the diagram:

2 options for potbelly stoves - from a gas cylinder and a standard iron barrel

Stove rocket from a cylinder

In addition to the gas cylinder itself, to assemble the stove you will need:

• profile pipe 150 x 150 mm for the firebox and loading hopper;
• steel pipes with a diameter of 70 and 150 mm will go to the internal vertical channel;
• the same with a diameter of 100 mm for the chimney;
• insulation (basalt fiber with a density of at least 100 kg/m³);
• sheet metal 3 mm thick.

For a master skilled in welding, this work will not be particularly difficult. The top of the cylinder should be cut off along the seam, after first unscrewing the valve and filling it to the top with water. Openings are cut on both sides for installing a firebox and inserting a chimney. A profile pipe is inserted and connected to a vertical channel, which is discharged through the bottom of the cylinder. Further work on the manufacture of the rocket furnace is carried out in accordance with the drawing:

At the end, the upper part must be welded into place, then carefully check all seams for permeability so that air does not flow uncontrollably into the oven. After this, you can attach a chimney with a water jacket (if available) and begin testing.

Masonry of a rocket-type heater made of bricks

This stove option will require the purchase of fireclay bricks; ordinary ceramic bricks will not work for a rocket stove. The masonry is done using fireclay clay mortar; it is also sold as a ready-made building mixture. How to make a stationary rocket stove:

1. First you need to dig a hole, compact the bottom and pour a foundation measuring 1200 x 400 mm and 100 mm high, as shown in the photo.
2. After hardening, the foundation is covered with a sheet of basalt cardboard and the combustion chamber, a bunker for loading firewood and a vertical channel are laid. A door is installed at the end of the combustion chamber to clean the ash pan.
3. After the clay has dried, the pit is filled up, and a pre-selected pipe or small barrel with a diameter of 450 mm is placed on the vertical channel. The gap between the brickwork and the pipe walls is filled with fire-resistant insulation, for example, basalt wool, expanded clay, vermiculite.
4. At the last stage, a cap made of a large metal barrel with a diameter of 600 mm is put on the structure. First, a cutout is made in its upper part and a pipe is installed to connect the chimney. When the barrel turns over, he will be at the bottom.

Then it’s a matter of technology; you can take the chimney directly outside or build another bench with smoke circulation. For this purpose, ordinary ceramic bricks and clay-sand mortar will do. The order of the brickwork of a rocket stove with a small bench is shown in detail in the video:

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For many people, the stove symbolizes comfort. Fire creates an environment that promotes relaxation of the soul. Recently, metal units have been in greatest demand. And the reason for this is both reliability and high technical characteristics. Like any heating device, a metal stove is installed in accordance with fire safety standards and regulations. Installation requirements in wooden houses are undoubtedly stricter. Proper installation will not only avoid accidents, but will also help maximize the efficiency of the unit. This article will talk about how to install a metal stove.

Modern heating metal stove

This equipment is widely used for heating baths, cottages, work trailers and other small areas.

Metal stove photo

Over the years of “evolution” it has undergone many changes, which had a positive impact on the following parameters and nuances:

• functionality . Today, manufacturers offer models that operate in different temperature conditions. Such parameters allow you to select the optimal microclimate;
• Efficiency The advanced design provides the ability to select or combine different fuel choices, achieving efficient heating of the room. Due to the increased firebox area, the fuel is burned completely, which in turn increases the efficiency;
• equipment. The equipment can be supplemented with a tank for heating water, which is important not only for baths, but also for residential buildings in country or garden areas;
• design. The model range makes it possible to choose a product in a stylish design. Ergonomic shapes and high efficiency – the perfect combination. Metal devices are decorated with decorative elements made of glass or forged parts.

Type of fuel for a metal furnace

This universal heating source can run on different types of fuel:

• electric models are equipped with a whole range of functions designed to increase operating comfort (remote control, panel for setting tasks, etc.). Heating elements quickly provide the required temperature. However, if there is a power outage, you will not be able to enjoy the warmth. To solve the problem, it is recommended to install a generator. The cost of such stoves is 12-15 thousand rubles;
• gas equipment , thanks to the burner and thermostat, allows you to regulate the intensity of combustion. It has a reliable security system: automatic sensors and controllers that operate under force majeure circumstances. The units are quite economical, but in the absence of natural gas it will be necessary to purchase liquefied propane-butane. The price varies between 15-17 thousand rubles;

• wood stoves are the most popular. This factor is due to simple maintenance and repair, as well as affordable fuel. There are models on the market that imitate a fireplace. The equipment warms up the room quite quickly. Chimneys work to completely remove combustion products. The cost of such heat generators starts from 12 thousand rubles;

• furnaces fueled by fuel oil, diesel fuel and a special distilled composition are characterized by a high degree of safety. In addition, such devices are economical due to the raw materials used. Some models are equipped with a toggle switch to switch from one type of fuel to another. The simplest units will cost only 2,000 rubles.

Choosing a metal stove for your home

A metal stove should be selected based on indicators such as:

• heating rate of a certain area;
• the maximum and minimum temperatures that the equipment can maintain;
• size of the firebox and the unit itself;
• metal alloy used for manufacturing;
• door modification;
• ease of operation and maintenance.

The equipment mainly available on the market is made of cast iron, black and stainless steel. By size it is divided into:

• mini-ovens for heating rooms up to 12 sq.m.;
• standard ovens to maintain temperature for 12-24 sq.m.;
• large furnaces capable of heating air in areas over 24 sq.m.

For cladding, ceramics and soapstone in their various modifications are used. Such materials increase the initial warm-up of heating equipment, but significantly reduce the unpleasant burning heat and increase the heat transfer time.

In some models, stone cladding plays only an aesthetic role, without in any way affecting the physical and technical characteristics of the devices. Decorative panels can be removable, so it will be easy to dismantle them and install products with a new design, radically changing the interior of the room.

Place for installing a metal stove with your own hands

• The technical characteristics of the heating unit are of great importance, but its location is no less important. After all, heat transfer is carried out not only by convective air masses, but also by radiation emanating from the walls of the device.
• If a brick oven produces weak heat and its walls do not normally heat up above 90 degrees, then the metal product emits rather harsh radiation and the walls of the structure heat up to 500-600 degrees.
• The installation location is determined both during the design of the premises and after the construction of the house or bathhouse. The main criterion is the location of window and door openings. Only in this case can you predict in which direction the cold air currents will move.
• Before installation, the working space for fuel should also be planned. The type of fuel does not matter; it is important to first calculate the path of the carrier and its storage near the heating unit.

Fire safety

Knowing and observing fire safety measures, it will be possible to install the stove in rooms built from any materials, including wood. Although both brick and block buildings are at risk of fire. Therefore, strictly follow all requirements.

• The unit is installed on a floor made of non-combustible materials. This could be a regular concrete screed, metal sheet, ceramic tile, etc. The edges of the surface should protrude at least 50-70 cm from the device body.
• The walls adjacent to the stove and nearby furniture are insulated with heat-resistant material, such as asbestos sheets or super-insulation, in this way the required distance (1 m) from the wall to the rear wall of the cabinet can be reduced to 20 cm.
• There should be at least half a meter between the equipment and wooden surfaces (walls or furniture), optimally 60-70 cm.
• Much attention is paid to the arrangement of the chimney system. Use additional protection elements that prevent the pipe from clogging and prevent birds from building nests, which is especially important for vertically located channels.

• The distance between the ceiling and the upper part of the heating unit body must be at least 1.2 m, and from the firebox door to the opposite wall - 1.3 m.
• To avoid accidents, especially if there are children in the family, the equipment is fenced with a decorative “fence”.
• Some models provide for the installation of ducts in the walls to heat adjacent rooms. In such cases, heat-resistant finishing materials should be used. Recommendations are described in detail in the instructions supplied with each unit.

Preparing the floor and walls before installing a metal stove in the house

• Walls protected with insulating materials do not look attractive. Therefore, they are most often decorated with ceramic tiles, and floor slabs from the same collection will help maintain the “comfort corner”.
• Ceramics are laid immediately on a concrete floor, and if it is a wooden base, then a glass-magnesite, plywood or plasterboard sheet is first laid. The material is screwed directly to the floorboards with self-tapping screws. The surface is treated with primer and left for a day until completely dry.
• Tile adhesive is applied with a notched trowel; this tool will allow you to achieve the same layer thickness. The first row is laid as evenly as possible; a level is used here to level the surface both horizontally and vertically. The quality of the entire surface depends on how flawlessly the row is laid out.

• Ceramic products are mounted without seams or with them. The last option will help hide layout errors, respectively reducing or increasing the distance between them.
• After 2 days, the construction crosses are removed and the seams are filled with grout mixture. To transition from tiles to the main floor material, decorative thresholds or corners are used.
• In the same way, the installation of tiles on the walls is carried out. Heat-resistant mastic is applied to the ceramic in five points. The bottom row will not have to be adjusted horizontally if the floor tiles were installed according to all the rules.
• It is better to cut products to size using a stencil made of thick cardboard. The edges of the masonry are edged with a special profile, combined with a threshold or plinth.

Installation of a metal stove in a wooden house

Depending on the model, one or another type of connection and assembly of elements will be required. Each manufacturer tries to present equipment with a minimum set of parts. All installation information with detailed diagrams is included with the heating unit.

• In most cases, the equipment only needs to be installed in a prepared location. The difficulty of installation lies in the correct connection and correctly located outlet of the smoke exhaust duct.

• The chimney can go horizontally or vertically. Thanks to a large set of pipe elements, its exit can be carried out at different angles. It is worth noting that the exit through the wall is gaining popularity, but this direction of the channel is not suitable for all stoves.
• For compact models, double-walled stainless steel pipes with basalt wool insulation are used. Such products are characterized by less condensation and soot deposition.
• The preparation of holes for the pipe is carried out immediately before its installation. To do this, assemble a smoke exhaust duct and calculate its exit point. The hole diameter must comply with the manufacturer's recommendations.
• If there is a ready-made chimney, then the pipe is passed through the shaft. If the diameters do not match, special adapters (glasses) are used. Complex channel direction options should not be used. Numerous turns will serve as accumulation points for fuel combustion residues.

• The chimney begins to be assembled indoors. A pipe is fixed to the outlet of the housing, which can be located on top of the housing or on its rear part. A gate is installed above, which serves to regulate traction.
• If the channel runs at a slope, then a half-bend with the required degree is used. Heat-resistant materials are used to seal connections. If necessary, a so-called “glass” is installed, which connects pipes of different sections.
• A metal plate is mounted at the entry point of the chimney in the wall or ceiling. A technical hole equal to the diameter of the channel is cut out in it. This element can be made in the form of a square flange. The height of the sides must correspond to the thickness of the interfloor ceiling or wall.

• The resulting “box” is attached to the surface, and a chimney is passed through the hole (from the street to the room). The empty space between the flange walls and the double-wall pipe is filled with basalt wool. The double-walled channel is connected to the adapter (glass) using clamps.
• When the chimney exits into the wall from the street side, a tee is installed on the pipe, from which a vertical channel will go. Its reliable fastening will be ensured by wall brackets. To protect against leaves and dry branches, the head is equipped with a deflector. This element will not allow birds to build nests at the end of the pipe.

Brickwork for a metal furnace

A metal stove, for all its advantages, produces radiation that is too harsh, which does not allow you to breathe freely in its immediate vicinity. The solution to this problem is to line the equipment with solid brick masonry.

• Before work, you need to make sure that the floor can withstand an impressive weight, sometimes reaching up to half a ton. When marking, a gap of 3-8 cm is maintained between the unit body and the future wall.
• A metal sheet 2-4 mm thick is laid on wooden floors, which in turn is covered with asbestos. The width of the lining is taken based on the thickness of the bricks themselves. If the base is made of concrete or ceramic slabs, then there is no need for preparation.
• The walls rise to the height of half a brick. The solution is mixed using clay mixed with sand; its thickness should be of medium density. The work is carried out according to all the canons of ordinary brickwork, that is, with observance of leveling along the planes and bandaging the seams.

• In the second row, technological holes are made on all 3 walls, approximately half the size of a brick, for high-quality air exchange. They also leave holes for the blower, door and other structural elements of the oven.
• When the height of the wall reaches the top of the firebox door, corners of their metal are placed on the brick blocks, which will distribute the load generated by subsequent rows. To decorate the top, different options are used, for example: left open or made in an arched form.

Cost of work in specialized companies

• If for some reason you decide to transfer all of the above actions to the shoulders of professionals, then installing the equipment will cost 7-10 thousand rubles. Installation work in wooden houses will be a little more expensive. This is due to additional insulation arrangements.
• The cost of laying a chimney duct through interfloor ceilings and roofing will range from 25 to 40 thousand rubles. depending on the complexity of the work being carried out. If the chimney goes along an external wall, you will have to pay about 5-10 thousand rubles for installation, where the final cost will be determined by the length of the pipe.
• It is, of course, up to the owner to decide whether to save on work and install the heating unit on his own or to seek help from specialized organizations. The main thing is that the installation of the stove itself and the smoke exhaust system is carried out in accordance with fire safety standards.

Compliance with the rules will help to avoid dire consequences; we are talking not only about the possible loss of real estate, but also the health and lives of family and friends.

Construction device

The main parts of the fireplace are the firebox and chimney.
The main functional parts are the firebox and chimney. There are also other important components:

• heating device;
• valve;
• ash pan;
• lining;
• grate;
• forced convection system;
• safety doors;
• fire cutter.

The external device consists of a cladding and a portal. The latter serves for decoration and maintaining a certain style of the room.

Installation of the fireplace can be done using separate parts purchased in the store, or you can create it yourself from the necessary building materials. An industrial firebox is usually made of cast iron or steel. Do-it-yourself masonry is possible using refractory bricks.

Shiber

Another important element of such a fireplace stove is a damper installed above the starting convection pipe. Ansushkov recommends making the chimney straight, since such a chimney has better draft and heats up faster. In addition, this is also a safer way to install a fireplace stove in your home.

ansushkov

The gate was placed immediately above the starting convection pipe. It is a must to install. Enlarge the photo and you will see it. A straight chimney is really better, the stove is very powerful, the draft is strong, it heats up instantly, and therefore it is safer with a straight chimney. And after one full charge, I don’t recommend charging the second one right away, it heats up like hell, my volumes are large, although one floor has a 3.8 m ceiling, the living room and kitchen are combined, it gets hot. The convector at the starting point also helps distribute the flow. The stove itself holds heat for a long time - cast iron.

The passage of the pipe through the ceiling itself is made of non-combustible blocks, a sandwich chimney, the main main reduction in temperature in the first section through convection.

Installation of a stove-fireplace

The simple installation process consists of several steps:

• floor preparation (the base is laid out of brick);
• installation of fire-resistant walls;
• laying tiles on the base;
• construction of a flue or chimney.

How to install the stove? This question is asked by every summer resident who has just built a summer house. First of all, prepare the base. A flat base is mounted with plasterboard, plywood or glass magnesite using self-tapping screws. The base with slabs looks great, smoothly transitioning into a ceramic floor or podium.

Walls in heat-reflecting tiles are made according to the same instructions as the base. Heat-reflecting sheets are primed and tiled. The primer is applied in two layers, and the tiles are glued with heat-resistant glue. Again, it is appropriate to make decorative elements in transition areas. The same ladle can be beautifully decorated so that it does not seem out of place next to the stove.

It is now fashionable to collect smoke waste from ready-made “sandwich” chimneys. They are already ready, they just require assembly into a single structure and mounting. In addition to sandwich chimneys, you can make brick and asbestos chimneys. Brick ones will last you longer than all other types because they do not deteriorate from prolonged use. Exiting a chimney through the ceiling is labor-intensive, but through the wall it is more convenient.

The sequence of actions when installing a chimney looks like this:

• The first part of the chimney without insulation is attached to the pipe so that it does not melt due to prolonged burning.
• The hole for the pipe is made in the right place and, if necessary, treated with thermal insulation around the chimney.
• The height of the pipe is 4-5 meters; as it rises, the chimney is secured with brackets.
• A spark arrestor with a mesh is installed at the upper end of the chimney. It prevents moisture and snow from entering the chimney.

Types of foundations

Among the known types of foundations for arranging furnaces, the following are suitable:

• concrete pillars;
• strip foundation;
• monolithic slab.

Each type has its own characteristics. Concrete pillars are suitable for both a heavy metal stove and a massive brick fireplace. The number of supports is selected based on the total weight of the structure and the condition of the soil at the installation site. To install them, holes of the required size are made in the floor, and after installing the posts, a frame of welded metal channels is laid on them.

Strip foundations are erected according to the classical scheme. According to the method, when constructing them, formwork is first made around the perimeter of the supporting structure, into which liquid concrete is then poured. All other operations are performed in exactly the same way as described in the previous case.

Important! The strip base should not be connected to the foundation of a wooden building, since due to its small mass in winter it can be squeezed out of the ground.

The monolith is mainly used when installing fireplace-type stoves in dachas. Its thickness can reach 15–20 cm, which is quite enough to withstand the design pressure on the foundation.

Any of the types of foundation discussed above must sit for some time after pouring. You can begin installing the stove on it in about 28–30 days.

Video description

This video clearly shows an example of violation of the rules for installing a sandwich chimney:

• The position of the pipe is not observed. It is installed strictly vertically. When insulating main walls with foam plastic or mineral wool, long dowels are used to secure the chimney.
• There is no ebb on the side roof slope. In this case, precipitation can get on the insulation and impair its functions.
• Insufficient overall vertical height. This error leads to poor traction.

Problems arise when using low-quality insulating material. Cheap insulation shrinks over time, so there is a possibility of local overheating of some parts of the chimney.

About the outlet of the chimney and chimney pipes

If possible, it is better to make a brick chimney for steel stoves. In this case, by covering the steel pipe with brick, an additional heating surface for the room is obtained. The brick will heat up from the temperature of the exhaust gases and gradually release heat to the room. This design will protect owners from burns when touching the pipe. The inner surface of the steel pipe is smooth, therefore reducing the risk of rapid deposition of a thick layer of soot and frequent cleaning of the channels.

Near the floor slab, you can switch to sandwich pipes or simple steel pipes. A hole is made in the floor slab and a section of the chimney is inserted into it. Then this place is wrapped with a layer of mineral wool or other heat-insulating material and covered with a layer of decorative finishing.

All parts are fixed to the wall at a certain distance using clamps with self-tapping screws. To exit through the roof, you will need to make a hole in it and install a special coupling or wrap it with a layer of thermal insulation. From the inside, the hole is sealed with polyurethane foam or heat-resistant sealants. On the outside, a layer of sealant and the main roof covering is used.

Expert advice

Before purchasing the necessary materials for arranging an external chimney, the power of the equipment is determined. It affects the diameter of the pipes. You can also use these expert tips:

• if the heating equipment is equipped with forced draft, then it is not necessary to increase the vertical section of the structure; it is enough to remove the horizontal pipe;
• a horizontal section that is too long helps slow down the smoke flow (the value should not exceed 1-1.5 m);

Rules for installing chimney pipesSource krovgid.com

Inspection holes are installed not only on the outer part of the structure, but also on the internal horizontal element.

Rules for arranging a fireplace with your own hands

Before assembling the fireplace correctly so that it is as reliable and durable as possible, you need to take into account a number of rules aimed at achieving these goals:

• When installing a brick fireplace, you need to create a separate foundation for it;
• The working part of the firebox can only be made of fireclay bricks, which should not be in contact with ordinary bricks;
• When installing the door and ash pan, you need to lay an asbestos cord and leave a small gap necessary for the thermal expansion of the metal elements;
• The interior of the firebox does not require plaster;
• It is advisable to place the rear wall of the fireboxes at a slight angle.

A separate point is the fire safety rules, compliance with which reduces the risk of fire to a minimum:

• Along the entire length of the smoke exhaust duct, special cuttings must be installed to increase the degree of fire safety;
• When placing a fireplace in close proximity to a wall, it is imperative to lay a layer of refractory material between them with a thickness of at least 20-25 mm;
• When installing a fireplace on a wooden floor, it is necessary to lay a metal sheet or ceramic coating under the structure so that it protrudes beyond the perimeter of the fireplace by at least 30-35 mm;
• At the point where the pipe passes through the interfloor floor or ceiling, a 15-cm layer of heat-insulating, heat-resistant material must be installed;
• A fireplace can only have one of its own chimneys.

The operation of the fireplace is also carried out according to certain rules:

• It is strongly not recommended to heat the fireplace to extreme temperatures;
• For normal operation, the fireplace must be regularly cleaned of soot deposits and ash;
• All flammable objects must be kept at least 70 cm away from the fireplace;
• You can only use the type of fuel in the fireplace for which the design was designed.

Service life of the external chimney

The service life of the structure depends on the material of its manufacture and correct installation. When used correctly, ceramic pipes will perform their function for up to 40 years. A brick chimney can be used for more than 50 years. Stainless steel will have to be replaced after 15-20 years, but it all depends on the thickness of the metal. Galvanization has the shortest service life: up to 10 years.

The durability of the structure is affected by the heating temperature of the exhaust gases. A high-quality sandwich system will last up to 20 years. Structures last longer if heating equipment runs on gas or pellets.

Installation Requirements

Before equipping a wooden house with a fireplace, you need to take into account a number of fire safety requirements. The equipment should be located at a safe distance from wooden walls, and also away from curtains, drapes, clothing and other flammable products and objects. Open fire and heated surfaces pose a potential threat to the safety of the log house.

In addition, it is necessary to act on the basis of SP 55.13330.2016, which contains information on the relative position of various equipment and furniture in residential buildings. This set of rules emphasizes that the house must be designed to withstand the load from a factory-made fireplace. Combustion products must be discharged into the chimney.

All chimneys and chimneys are placed on the basis of SP 60.13330. The chimney should not pass through the living space. Its surface temperature is strictly 20 °C less than the ignition temperature of the material.

To install the chimney, it is recommended to use materials and metal structures that have not been previously used.

A brick fireplace has a unique appearance and a simple installation process, and it fits harmoniously into any part of the house.

Briefly about the main thing...

Chimneys can be single- or double-walled. Based on the material of manufacture, metal, brick structures and structures made of sandwich pipes are distinguished. The last option is optimal for private houses. When installing a chimney, the rules for its placement in the room are observed. Its functionality, as well as the presence of draft in the heating equipment, depends on the correct determination of the diameter and height of the structure.

The installation technology through a wooden and brick wall is the same, but there are some nuances: wood is more susceptible to ignition and requires maximum protection.
During installation, you must comply with fire regulations, and also take into account possible errors. Date: September 25, 2022

Installation of a metal furnace

When considering the features of the placement of metal and brick stoves, approaches to their installation are somewhat different. Iron stoves may not weigh too much, so during installation they do not need a foundation.

Important! According to the provisions of SNiP, only metal stove products with a mass exceeding 80 kg need a reliable foundation.

With a lower weight indicator, such a product is installed on a substrate made of refractory material directly on the floor. Once the location has been chosen and the issue with the foundation has been resolved, you can proceed to the procedure for installing a metal furnace. When installing a heating device, all requirements specified in the section on the protection of wooden structural elements of the house must be met.

For this purpose, a metal stove with a water boiler is sometimes simply lined around the entire perimeter with ordinary bricks. In all other respects, its installation comes down to installation in an already prepared place. The only thing you should pay attention to is compliance with the rules for venting the chimney outside.

Features of operation of potbelly stoves

To assemble an efficient and fireproof chimney duct for a metal stove, the following nuances must be taken into account:

1. The efficiency of the stove is extremely low - no more than 50%. Accordingly, half of the heat generated by burning wood is lost through the chimney.
2. The walls of the flue heat up considerably - up to a maximum of 400 °C, the average temperature is about 200 °C.
3. Contact with cold outside air causes condensation to form inside. Its quantity depends on the temperature difference between the exhaust gases and the environment.
4. Soot settles on the channel walls. The more condensate is released, the faster the soot layer grows.
5. With periodic firing, an ice plug gradually freezes in the area of ​​the head, blocking the passage and reducing the force of natural draft. With each subsequent ignition, the stove works worse and begins to smoke into the room.

Examples of incorrect stove chimneys - burnt-out galvanization and a pipe clogged with soot

Abundant moisture condensation is promoted by operating a solid fuel heater in smoldering mode. Closer to the head, the pipe warms up weakly, which is why the water released from the air does not have time to evaporate. The problem is aggravated by humidity and low quality fuel burned in garage and country stoves, which produce a lot of soot.

The correct chimney pipe for a potbelly stove minimizes the following problems:

• reducing the amount of condensation and soot is achieved through external insulation of the area running along the street and unheated rooms;
• thermal insulation also prevents the upper part of the flue from freezing;
• installing a chimney in a wooden house involves protecting structures from fire;
• The efficiency of the stove can be increased and the temperature of the pipe reduced by organizing heat removal in various ways.

These measures are taken as a whole. Removing heat from the iron chimney increases the efficiency of the furnace and reduces heating of the exhaust channel, and the insulation resists moisture condensation and soot deposition.

Advantages and disadvantages

A fireplace in a country house is a decorative element that creates a unique design of the room and an attractive design. Another advantage is that it provides an additional source of heating for the home. Disadvantages are usually due to the arrangement of the firebox:

1. Difficulties associated with the installation and arrangement of the fireplace area. The construction of an open fireplace is possible only if this possibility was provided for at the initial stage of construction of the house and a separate foundation was poured for the structure. It is necessary to follow the order of installation, including the stage-by-stage delivery of the structure for acceptance by the registration authorities.
2. An inspection of the combustion chamber and chimney duct by an employee of the Ministry of Emergency Situations, carried out before connecting the chimney. Work on completing all the paperwork may take more than one year.
3. Features of wooden structures - complete shrinkage of the house can occur no earlier than after 6-7 years. Construction of the fireplace can only be done after this time has been completed.
4. Limitations related to the size of the room. The dimensions of the portal increase taking into account the selected material. A home can be built in a room no smaller than 25 m².