Installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wooden wall: diagrams on how to properly make a passage, installation and fastening

Despite the wide range of electric and gas boilers on the modern market, solid fuel stoves are in no hurry to lose their positions. Thanks to their autonomy of use and affordable price, they are the optimal choice for country houses, cottages and bathhouses.

For proper and safe operation of the stove, it is necessary to correctly design and install the chimney. But often, at the stage of building a house, people miss the need to install a chimney simultaneously with the construction of walls. This problem has many solutions: output through ceilings, roofing. The best option would be to install a chimney through the wall, which will not only help to significantly save interior space, but also reduce the number of units and passages through the ceilings.

We will tell you in this article how to carry out installation correctly and what materials are best to use.

Installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes through a wall

Features of working with wooden walls

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe through a wooden wall requires precautions.

The dimensions of the hole in the wall are selected with a margin of 100 mm between the wall and the pipe. The distance from the chimney to other combustible materials is 450 mm.
Basalt insulation is laid around the sandwich (it is resistant to high temperatures) and asbolite (or mineralite) around the perimeter.
To hold the insulation inside the hole, it is covered with a sheet of stainless metal.
A spark arrestor or umbrella is installed at the end of the chimney for fire safety purposes.

Technical characteristics of sandwich pipes

Material. Basalt fiber (mineral wool) is mainly used as a thermal insulation material. This type of insulation is resistant to high temperatures and chemicals. Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation/sound insulation properties and is laid with a thickness of 30-60 mm. Due to their fireproof properties, multilayer pipes can be used in houses built from any material. More expensive alloys with a high degree of heat resistance are used for the inner casing.

The inner layer of the sandwich pipe is mainly made of galvanized steel, and the outer layer can be made of copper, brass, stainless steel, etc. The scope of the pipe and the price depend on the content of alloying materials, various alloys and the thickness of the heat-insulating layer.

Sandwich pipes galvanized and stainless steel

Connection type. Sandwich pipe elements are connected in two ways: corrugated edges and sockets. The advantage of a corrugated connection is ease of installation, but to ensure tightness, a large amount of sealant is required, and this increases the cost of the chimney. With a socket connection, a high degree of tightness is achieved due to the presence of a wider chamfer on one side of the pipe. The advantage is a high degree of tightness, due to which the design can be used for gas boilers. But the downside is the complexity of installation and the need for very precise adjustment of all parts.

Types of sandwich pipe connections

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of a chimney is the ability of heated gases to rise, reducing their density. As a result, the cavity becomes rarefied and is replaced by air coming from outside. The draft increases, supporting combustion. When the gases cool, an acidic precipitate appears. It affects the internal walls of the structure, deforming and destroying them. To reduce the threshold for the formation of acid condensate, thermal insulation materials are used.

What decorative materials are used to finish “weak” areas?

Starikovsky expanded clay is rarely used in modern walk-through devices; now, to a greater extent, various basalt fillers or various fiber cement boards are used. They look like drywall and cut well. This is generally the best material at the moment. Fiber cement boards have many commercial names.

Brick is often used, the rule here is simple - the brick is laid from the pipe along its entire length, and this, in principle, is enough for fire protection. The heat is mainly removed by brick, but a little fiber cement board around the perimeter still won’t hurt.

Porcelain tiles are great because they can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees and can be used for decorative purposes along with fire protection. You can use its analogue - this is a very resistant special heat-resistant tile called terracotta. Excellent tiles that are used for thermal protection and at the same time for room decoration, both on the floor near the stove and on the wall at the chimney outlet.

Types and designs of external chimneys

By design, external chimney devices when discharged through a wall are:

wall-mounted They are fixed to the facade;
indigenous. They differ from wall-mounted devices in that they are located near the frame house, and not on the facade wall. This is an independent structure with a foundation.

Main chimney
A chimney through a wall in a wooden house is made of fire-resistant materials. Brick, metal, asbestos-cement and ceramic variations protect your home from toxic gases to varying degrees. We will introduce you to the features of the most common types.

Brick

Built from red brick.

The brick is strong, durable, has a good appearance and is wear-resistant.

It has a rectangular cross-section, which is inconvenient for increasing traction force. The surface inside the structure is rough. The chimney is heavy. Only qualified masons can install it. Brick cannot withstand exposure to aggressive chemicals. The porous texture of the material promotes the accumulation of moisture and deposits of soot and soot.

Inspection hatch for cleaning an external brick chimney

Ceramic

A popular design is the ceramic sandwich pipe. It has a long service life. It is easy to install. You can handle its construction yourself. The walls inside the product are smooth, so good traction is guaranteed. The device can be installed both outside and inside the building.

Weight of a 6-8 meter ceramic chimney

Ceramic structures are not afraid of aggressive chemicals: alkalis, acids.

An important disadvantage is the high price.

Ceramic chimney in blocks

Metal

Single-component chimneys are metal pipes of round cross-section. They are not used for outdoor installation because they have high heat loss. Aggressive substances that appear when gases cool down destroy the metal structure. Therefore, the service life of single-layer devices is short. Their disadvantage is the need for expensive thermal insulation.

Sandwich pipes (double-circuit) consist of a large and small pipe and insulation. It also serves as an insulator. The pipes are made of acid-resistant stainless steel.

Smooth chimney walls provide good draft and reduce the amount of soot on their surface. Installing a chimney through a wall using sandwiches is a very common option.

Sectional view of a sandwich pipe

Types of ceiling penetrations

When crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the “pie” materials from heat, and also somehow fix the pipe in a certain position. This task is accomplished by a ceiling cutout or, as it is also called, a “passage unit.”

The pass-through units are industrially manufactured. They are a box made of metal or mineralite, to which a stainless or galvanized steel plate is attached on one side. A hole is made in the middle of this assembly into which a sandwich is inserted. The plate on the side of the room closes the hole in the ceiling, decorating it. It also serves as a support for the heat insulator, which is used to fill the gap between the pipe and the floor beams for better thermal insulation.

This is a mineralite ceiling penetration. View from the attic

There is no disagreement regarding what material to use for the penetrations in the bathhouse: only stainless steel. The fact is that at temperatures that are typical for steam rooms, galvanization releases far from the most useful substances. Therefore, there is only one option: stainless steel.

Everything is installed simply. If the ceiling was made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, a square hole is cut in the right place (between the beams), which is 1-2 cm smaller than the size of the decorative panel. Beams and boards are covered with a layer of thermal insulation. If available, you can nail down strips of mineralite, basalt or asbestos cement cardboard (asbestos is harmful, so use it only as a last resort), just a strip of stone wool insulation. In some cases, padding of the insulation with metal strips is required (when it is needed, see below).

You can't do that - you had to cut a square hole. And the lining on the ceiling near the pipe is already charred...

When installing a pipe on a stove, the device is placed on a straight section that will cross the ceiling. The passage unit simply rises to the desired level. A strip of thermal insulation is placed under its edges that touch the ceiling boards, then everything is fixed with self-tapping screws. In many units, manufacturers even make perforations for self-tapping screws, so even this is not a problem.

The configuration of these products varies. Sometimes a metal cylinder is made around the hole for the pipe. The edges of the decorative plate protrude significantly beyond this cylinder. When installing a pass-through unit of this type, the hole is still cut in a square shape. A circle is also possible, but from the pipe to its edge there must be a distance of at least 130 mm if the pipe is insulated, and 250 mm if it is without insulation

With this option, please note: the size of the plate should be sufficient to mask the hole. In addition, with this form of passage through the ceiling, it is imperative to protect the wood of the ceiling not only with heat insulators, but also to cover it with strips of metal

Pass-through units through the ceiling come in different configurations

There are passage units in which there is no cylinder around the pipe, but there are outer sides around the perimeter. They are made of metal, and can also be made of mineralite. If the sides are made of metal, the edges of the cutout in the ceiling must be lined with a heat insulator (for example, basalt cardboard or the same mineralite). If the sides are made of mineralite, then they themselves are a good heat insulator. So additional thermal insulation of the edges of the cutout is not necessary (but you can play it safe).

Advantages and disadvantages of venting the chimney through the wall

Installing a chimney through a wall has the following advantages.

It can be carried out after the completion of the construction of the house, and not at its beginning.
You can install the chimney structure yourself, because installation is simple and consists of several operations.
Since the chimney device is located outside the building, access to it is open, which facilitates repairs and maintenance.
It is possible to regulate the traction force.
High fire safety.
Gas leakage is excluded.
There is no need to make holes in the roofing pie.
Saving space indoors.

The disadvantages of such a chimney include:

violation of the aesthetic appearance of your home;
heat loss. It goes into the atmosphere. It is necessary to properly insulate the exit through the wall;
to prevent water from entering the pipe, it is necessary to install ebbs;
additional fixation of the chimney to the wall is necessary;
a large number of bends in the structure disrupt the draft and slow down the release of exhaust gases into the atmosphere.

May be interesting: Insulation of a house made of timber

What is it and what is it for?

A chimney is a vertically located structure that has a cavity inside through which hot combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere. In fact, this is a box made of non-combustible material (brick, metal, ceramics, asbestos cement, concrete), which serves to remove flue gases upward from the combustion chamber (furnace) under the influence of draft.

A chimney is needed to remove waste combustion products outside the home. Smoke poses a significant danger to humans:

Exhaust gases contain carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide, which are toxic to humans.
Smoke contains oxides of sulfur, nitrogen and some other elements; when the oxides combine with water vapor, aggressive and harmful acids are formed.
Smoke carries soot particles, which, without smoke removal, will settle into the room, on the ceiling, furniture, things and in the lungs of humans and animals.
Smoke contains a lot of water vapor produced by the combustion of hydrocarbons - the steam will also condense on walls and windows and create high humidity, promoting the formation of fungi and mold.
In addition, hot gases can cause a fire.

The health and even life of you and your household depends on how the device is properly executed and high-quality materials are selected.

The service life of such a chimney

The duration of operation is influenced by factors:

material. The most short-lived material is galvanized metal. The chimney will last 5-10 years, depending on the intensity of the fireboxes. The service life of stainless steel is 15-20 years. The ceramic design will delight you for about 40 years. The period of operation of a brick chimney is half a century;
installation. If the pipe is installed correctly, then it can be used for 20 - 50 years;
heating temperature of the exhaust gases. For a solid fuel boiler it is high - 300 degrees. In a gas boiler it is only 120 degrees. The lower the temperature, the more condensate forms inside the pipe. Condensate contains aggressive substances that corrode the walls and destroy them;
heating type. Gas boilers are more durable than other heating systems.

To ensure that the exhausted chimney lasts as long as possible, ensure that it is cleaned and inspected.

Flaws

Although it has many positive factors, the structure also has negative sides. You need to familiarize yourself with them:

An integral rule for installing a chimney through a wall is to create insulation on the pipes;
Inside and outside the house you will need to allocate a relatively large horizontal area for the smoker;
According to some experts, if this outer pipe is for a gas boiler, then the productivity will be low;
This product will not be in harmony with the overall design, however, this can be played around somehow.

General rules for chimney installation

When deciding on installation, follow the established rules.

It is prohibited to install a chimney near engineering systems: sewerage, electrical wiring.
For proper operation of the chimney, a deflector is required. It eliminates the impact of precipitation on the traction and the internal casing of the structure.
It is necessary to install a snow retainer on the roof in the part where the chimney exits the wall. It protects the chimney channel from mechanical damage.
The pipes must be secured to the walls in increments of no more than 1 m.
Before installing a double-layer chimney pipe over the furnace firebox, a sandwich start is installed.
Non-flammable insulation (basalt) around the sandwich pipe protects the wood from ignition.
The pipe extends from the boiler strictly horizontally, its length to the wall is no more than 1 m.
The pipe in the passage through the wall is mounted in one piece without joints.
To avoid emergency situations, it is important to provide open access to it in order to repair it at any time.

Expert advice

The chimney running outside the building should be collected using condensate. If you collect smoke, condensation can get inside the liner, wet the insulation - the pipe will be poorly insulated (the liquid conducts heat well), the outer liner will heat up, heat up the wall structures, which can lead to a fire. In addition, freezing of the liquid can lead to damage to the pipes, and the acid in the condensate can lead to faster burning of the stainless steel inner liner. At the same time, a small smoke leak in the open air is quite safe, but a large one is clearly visible and can be eliminated by additionally sealing the pipe joint with sealant.

Under no circumstances should you reduce the diameter of the chimney duct opening - this will lead to a decrease or stop of draft.

It is necessary to regularly (2 times a year) clean the chimney channel from soot, and the head from frozen condensate, ice and snow.

How to insulate

The sandwich pipe is already well insulated and does not require additional insulation. An exception is where the pipe passes through a wall or partition. For this purpose, different insulation materials are used, if possible fireproof. Glass wool with a low melting point cannot be used for chimneys; basalt wool cannot be used for coal boilers.

The place where the pipe passes through the wall (sometimes through the wooden structure of the roof overhang) must be insulated with basalt or ceramic wool, foamed vermiculite, or asbestos.

Do not think that asbestos is super harmful - the finished products do not generate dust or emit harmful substances, and the asbestos itself will be closed and isolated from the room with a flange.

Features of working with wooden walls

The peculiarity of wooden walls is their flammability. Therefore, installing a chimney in a wooden house is more difficult than in a stone one. When venting a chimney through a wooden wall, it is necessary to very strictly maintain the distance from the wall to the pipe (at least 260 mm) and perform high-quality thermal insulation of the passage through the wall. It is also important to pay attention to treating the walls with an antipyretic.

The installation of a chimney in a wooden house requires insulation of the wall surface near the outlet pipe of the heat generator and the first mounted monopipe. Insulation is carried out with non-combustible materials - plaster, tiles (porcelain stoneware), stone, fiber cement sheets, sheet metal with an asbestos sheet underneath.

Features of brick and concrete walls

Brick and concrete are resistant to fire - this is a big plus. But nevertheless, insulation in the place where the pipe passes is mandatory, the distance to the wall is at least 130 mm. The rules for installing chimneys were invented for the safety of people, and they should be followed in any case.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

Fire safety rules during installation of chimneys are as follows.

In places where the sandwich pipe touches wooden walls or partitions, it is important to use insulating materials.
If solid fuel equipment is used, it is necessary to install a spark arrester made of metal.
If the chimney height is below 5m, then an electrically driven smoke exhauster is installed.
The external walls of the house at the location of the chimney structure are separated from it by a basalt lining or asbestos-cement sheet.

Do it yourself or order it?

You can only make a brick chimney yourself or a structure from an insulated single-layer steel pipe. But laying smooth and beautiful walls of a brick pipe is more difficult than laying just a brick wall, and you must have the skills of an experienced mason. Single-layer pipes will have to be insulated; the quality of self-insulation is much worse than that of ready-made factory-made pipes.

You can independently install a chimney made of ceramics and sandwich pipes. It is impossible to manufacture elements of such chimneys on your own, but the industry produces many modules that allow you to assemble a pipeline of any design.

The question of whether to install a pipe yourself or hire a team of professionals is quite complicated. Installing a chimney is quite a complex job, and it is worth thinking about and carefully assessing your capabilities: is it possible to take prefabricated scaffolding or scaffolding of the appropriate height, will you have assistants, do you have the skills to install building structures, how do you react to height.

Selecting the type of chimney outlet

There are two ways to remove the pipe:

leading the pipe outwards from the firebox in a straight line. Most of it ends up on the street.

by lifting the chimney from the stove and bringing it closer to the middle of the wall height or to the ceiling. Most of it is located indoors;

The second method is more economical and effective, because only one elbow is used to install the chimney structure, which improves draft. In addition, soot plugs are minimized.

Classification of chimney structures

Before installing a chimney pipe through a wall, you should consider the types of construction. By design, it can be single-walled or double-walled. The first option is made of sheet steel. It is inexpensive and suitable for installation in country houses and cottages. The disadvantage of the product is its short service life. For effective operation, the structure will have to be insulated.

Double-wall chimneys are sandwich systems that are recommended for installation in wooden houses. The chimney is multilayer and has low thermal conductivity, which is extremely important for highly flammable materials.

Depending on the material used to make the structure, there are:

Brick . Often, their construction requires a foundation, and for proper laying, certain construction skills. This option is acceptable when building a fireplace in the house.
Steel . Stainless steel material is cheap, but requires external thermal insulation. If this is not done, condensation will accumulate inside the pipes, which will affect the quality of traction. Moisture can also get into the firebox and extinguish the flame. It will be difficult to light the boiler again.

Steel chimney Source krovlyamoya.ru

Asbestos-cement . Such products are heavy and fragile. A foundation is required for their installation. Under the influence of hot gases and moisture, such products deteriorate faster.
Ceramic . Such a chimney can withstand temperatures of more than 100 degrees, but requires thermal insulation and careful operation. Installation of such pipes is difficult, and they are expensive.
From sandwich pipes . The preferred option for building a chimney on the street. To produce the product, two pipes are taken, placed inside each other. There is a thermal insulation layer between them. The system is installed simply and quickly.

When choosing a material, not only its technical characteristics are taken into account, but also its decorative properties.

Determining the height of the chimney

The height of the chimney is an important indicator when choosing a design. The thrust and speed of gases moving out depends on it. To calculate the height of the chimney device, the following parameters should be taken into account:

height of the house. If the height of the house is small - 5 m, then the minimum size of the chimney structure is also 5.5 meters. When it is less than the proposed value, problems may arise: smoke in the building, carbon monoxide poisoning, decreased draft, wear and tear of the solid fuel boiler. In the case of a long pipe, the efficiency of the boiler installation is minimal. The optimal height of the chimney device is 5-10 m. If the house is high, more than 10 m, then the chimney should be located half a meter above the ridge to prevent turbulence;
boiler power. The higher the chimney device, the greater the power of the boiler equipment. For power below 20 kW, the chimney height is 5 m;
roofing material. If the roof materials are flammable, then the distance of the sandwich pipe to the ridge should not be less than a meter.

Building regulations

Chimneys are designed and installed in accordance with SP 60.13330.2012 “SNiP 41-01-2003. Heating, ventilation and air conditioning.”

Chimneys must meet the following requirements:

The height from the mouth to the grate must be at least 5 meters.
The internal channel should not have narrowed areas.
The height above the flat roof is at least 0.5 m (preferably 1 m).
Head height for pitched roof:

At a distance of less than 1.5 m from the ridge (parapet) - no lower than 0.5 m from the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is from 1.5-3 m - not lower than the level of the ridge.
If the distance to the ridge is more than 3 m, the height should not be below a line drawn from the ridge at an angle of 10° to the horizontal (down from the horizontal).
When calculating, you should take into account not only the height of the ridge closest to the chimney, but also the height of the highest ridge of the building (or the highest part of the building).

Pipes may have inclined sections at an angle of at least 30° to the vertical, with a horizontal pipe displacement of no more than 1 m. The cross-sectional area of inclined sections should not be less than the cross-sectional area of horizontal sections.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance between the outer surface of brick or any other chimneys (with insulation) and the structures of walls and roof slabs must be at least 130 mm. The distance from the structures to the wooden wall must be at least 260 mm.

If the chimney in the area of the roof overhang passes close to rafters, sheathing and other combustible materials, the passage must be insulated with non-combustible materials.

The chimney of solid fuel, wood and peat heating devices must necessarily have a mesh spark arrestor with a mesh size of no more than 5x5 mm if the roof is covered with flammable materials (bitumen tiles, roofing felt, ondulin) or leaves fall on it. When installing a chimney in a wooden house, be sure to install a spark arrester.

Traction and height

The height of the hog is the main parameter that determines the traction force.

Other factors affecting traction force:

Sufficient insulation of the pipeline.
Smoothness of the walls of the chimney channel.
The thickness of the soot layer on the walls.
The presence of a head or deflector (which does not interfere with the free exit of smoke).
Air supply to the firebox.
Closing the canal with valves, condensate or ice frozen at the mouth.
Correctly selected internal cross-section.

How to choose a diameter

The diameter of the internal chimney channel must necessarily coincide with the diameter of the boiler outlet pipe (information from the heat generator’s passport).

In SP 7.13130.2013 “Heating, ventilation and air conditioning. Fire Safety Requirements" shows the cross-sectional dimensions of the internal channel depending on the power of the heat generator:

Up to 3.6 kW – 140×140 mm (diameter not less than 158 mm).
3.5-5.2 kW – 140×200 mm (diameter not less than 189 mm).
5.2-7.0 kW – 140×270 mm (diameter not less than 219 mm).

How to assemble a sandwich using smoke or condensation

There are two types of element assembly:

"by the smoke." In it, the lower part is included in the upper component. The upper part is put on top of the lower one. Both pipes are assembled in the same way. If the stove has a high combustion temperature, then this method is suitable;
"by condensate". The inner pipe is assembled as follows: the upper part is inserted inside the lower one. The outer pipe is mounted differently. The lower part is inserted inside the upper one. When assembling the sandwich, the condensate flows freely into the sump.

Calculations and installation rules

Installation rules imply careful consideration of all stages of future work:

You should make sure that the pipe itself will not come into contact with any flammable materials, which, under the influence of high temperatures, may begin to smolder and release toxic fumes.
When installing the system directly externally, it is necessary to remember the deflection angles, which will act as active guides for smoke removal. The chimney pipe should not be located parallel to the wall of the house, since in this case smoke stasis will occur - it simply will not be removed from the system.
Special tees must be installed in the lower and side parts of the pipe, which will be used as a place to install mechanisms for condensate drainage. If this step is not completed, then moisture when lighting a fireplace or stove will simply enter the firebox and extinguish the flame. All this will significantly complicate the kindling process!
The upper part of the pipe should rise above the edge of the roof to ensure that smoke and soot are blown away in an area of more rarefied air. Typically, such zones are formed at a distance of 15-25 cm from the roof sheet.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney through a wall

Let's look at the installation procedure.

For a boiler or stove, it is important to install a stove, non-flammable lining - a podium. You can pour a concrete screed to level the base.

The foundation for the stove, laid on top with bricks

Mark a place for the passage of the pipe and cut it out.

To prevent the wall from catching fire, a protective screen is placed in front of it; it can be made of mineralite. If the boiler is solid fuel, then the protective brick screen is separated from the wooden wall by an insulator - an asbestos-cement sheet.

The chimney is diverted from the pipe at a right angle. The horizontal section is not insulated. The high temperature of the area may cause the insulation to become deformed.

Horizontal thin-walled section of the chimney

Insulation is laid around the sandwich pipe.

Wall penetration

A metal plate is screwed on the outside to protect the wooden wall from overheating.

Mount the tee. It's designed this way. that water flows to the lower part.

Protective sheet PPU and tee

They put up a support.

In some cases, the chimney is supported on a blind area or a separate foundation.

Support for low walls

The chimney is expanded “by condensate”.

Attaching the chimney to the wall with your own hands is done using brackets. The step of their location on the wall is 1 m. Fastening clamps secure the upper part of the gas exhaust pipe.

Mount a deflector or umbrella.

Umbrella

The joints are sealed with high-temperature sealant. We recommend using silicate sealants that can withstand temperatures of 1200 degrees. They have a black or black-gray color and a viscous consistency, harden within 15 minutes after application.

What parts does an outdoor chimney consist of?

As already mentioned, the most popular and most reliable of the street ones are sandwich chimneys. A standard pipe sleeve must be routed through wood with particularly careful fire protection, which only sandwich technology can provide. At the same time, there should be no pipe joints at the point of transition through the wall! So, what parts does an outdoor chimney usually consist of, which is led out through the wall? This:

Pipes;
Tees;
Elbow for bending the pipeline in the desired direction;
Chimney support;
Clamps. Distance between clamps when attaching to the wall: 60-100 cm;
Tee with revision, i.e. door for cleaning the chimney;
A condensate collector with a spout for removing it.

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

The passage of the chimney through the wall with your own hands is carried out exactly according to the instructions. If you know the nuances of construction, are not afraid of heights, and know how to use working tools and equipment, then you can do it.

Drawing and diagrams

Before purchasing materials and starting work, it is necessary to draw a drawing or develop a diagram of the location of structural elements, their sizes, and the distances between them. It is important to determine the list of tools and components needed for independent work. Consultants in stores that sell stainless steel sandwich pipes of well-known and proven brands that are not produced in artisanal conditions can help with this. These include CRAFT, BALTVENT, TERMOFOR, TEPLOV and SUKHOV, VULCANO, FERRUM, PHOENIX and others.

Selecting a place to exit through the wall

The side wall is located under the roof overhang. It gets water from icicles and rain if there are no special gutters. The front wall is located under the roof overhang. Water does not enter the pipe.

It is best to display the structure through the front wall. It is important that there is no balcony or windows under the ledge, so that you do not have to go around them when installing the structure. Any deviation from the vertical is fraught with a decrease in traction.

The device can also exit through the side wall. This solution is much worse, because you will have to make a hole in the roof overhang, assemble and install a drainage system to avoid flooding the sandwich pipe sleeve, getting the insulation wet, and heating the chimney.

What do the professionals advise?

As you can see, making an attached chimney yourself is not so difficult. The main thing is to choose all the materials correctly and take into account fire safety standards, which will allow you to avoid many unpleasant situations. It’s up to you to decide whether to vent the chimney through the roof or make it external. After all, what is better or worse is always easier to determine in each specific situation.

And finally, I would like to share some advice that professional stove makers give:

Before you start purchasing chimney elements and installing it, be sure to determine the power of your firebox. The more powerful it is, the larger pipe diameter you will need.
Be careful when choosing the height of the structure, which has a significant impact on obtaining good traction. A chimney that is too short will poorly remove combustion products, while a chimney that is too long will lead to excessive heat loss. Practice shows: the optimal pipe height is 5 meters. But here, too, everything is individual.
If your boiler is equipped with forced draft, then the output of the external chimney can be completed at the stage of arrangement of only the horizontal section (without further extension of the vertical pipe).
It is better to remove the chimney from the side of the gables (if possible). This greatly simplifies the task, since its arrangement will not be hampered by awnings and roof eaves.
The maximum length of the horizontal section should not exceed 1.5 meters. It is here that the smoke flow is inhibited, which significantly reduces draft.
Here, provide a special hole for technical needs: inspection and cleaning of the chimney. After all, the horizontal section is the most problematic in this regard. Sales consultants will help you choose the right item.
If there is a wooden wall on the side of the boiler, fireplace, or stove, be sure to install a protective screen. These can be sheets of mineralite, asbestos, galvanized, fire-resistant plasterboard, glass magnesium or other fire-resistant material.

There's no need to do that

Possible installation errors

Installation errors affect the correct operation of the chimney. Let's look at some of them to prevent their occurrence.

If the insulation of the passage through the wall is carried out poorly and the amount of heat-insulating materials is minimal, then the structure will overheat.
If there is no low tide on the roof overhang, there is a risk of water flooding the insulation materials and compromising their integrity and functioning.
Incorrectly calculated height of the chimney device impairs draft.

In addition, we recommend using high-quality sandwiches. In cheap and low-quality pipes, the materials are short-lived. Over time, the insulation shrinks and loses its positive qualities. Local overheating creates a dangerous fire situation.

How to install the most fire-hazardous section of the chimney

When installing an amber stove through a wall, sandwich systems are installed with your own hands. The first segment of the chimney is made from a fragment of a smaller pipe. It is fixed in such a way as to prevent overheating of the fasteners; for this it is necessary to retreat a sufficient distance. Basalt insulation is laid from the 2nd bend.

The first segment of the chimney is made from a fragment of a smaller pipe.

Safety regulations

Do not forget that the chimney is a source of danger. Place the flue away from the cable and gas pipe. Contact with other utilities is undesirable. The maximum length of individual fragments is 1 meter. It is important to follow building codes and regulations.

Place the flue away from the cable and gas pipe.

Safety regulations

The likelihood of a significant increase in pressure in the channel involves closing the joints with specially designed couplings. It is advisable to seal joints on steel pipes with heat-resistant sealants. Complete insulation of the chimney promotes proper draft.

Sandwich panels, which have good thermal insulation characteristics, do not exclude the possibility of overheating and possibly ignition of materials located near the chimney. To prevent this situation, it is recommended to increase the layer of thermal insulation at the joints of the structure.

If you follow the main safety rules, installing a chimney will not be difficult. In addition, it is necessary to ensure high-quality maintenance of the canal, including its regular cleaning. This will become a kind of prevention of accidents during operation of the furnace.

Silicone sealants for structures made of stainless steel, glass and other materials

When wondering how to seal a chimney made of stainless steel, glass, plastic or ceramics, you should pay attention to fireproof silicone. This material promotes close contact of structural parts with each other and reliable insulation. The main advantages of silicone composition:

Silicone sealants come in two types:

An additional advantage of silicone-based products is that as a result of heating, the iron oxide contained in it turns brown, which makes the insulation more invisible against the background of a roof or brickwork.

How to seal the joint between the chimney and the wall?

Hi all. What do you think is the best way to seal the joint between the wall of an iron garage and the potbelly stove chimney passing through it? For now, I’m inclined to use a solution like fireclay clay, and it won’t burn and the seal will be good, what do you think? Well, or tell me your version.

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Vermiculite slabs chimney sandwich. Stuff an asbestos cord around the perimeter between the wall and the pipe and compact it into a single mass.

It is better to remove smallpox from this corner altogether. Even under galvanization it can begin to smolder.

I’ll have to) it’s a pity, of course, that I’ve already done it, but oh well, I can still do it again

Basalt or kaolin wool. Sold in stove stores. Watch the tree in use; the window for the pipe is actually not enough. Smallpox is generally not for a bathhouse, at least not for a steam room.

And if you remove the pox and sew it up in the same way, but entirely with galvanized steel, without wood, then you can do it right next to the chimney?

Of course, it’s better to remove the smallpox, you shouldn’t do it right next to each other, leave a little space for filling with basalt wool. Using galvanization in bathhouses is not quite the right solution; stainless steel is usually used for cladding wood. Below in the comments you were told that it is better to use special steel instead of galvanizing. fireproof boards. These are available for sale in baking stores.

Wrap it in asbestos to the thickness of the wall. And coat the outside with a regular solution

Fire-resistant foam, pink

Mullite-silica plate. An excellent option is lpz.su/products/kremnezem…e-materialy/mkrp-340.html or Vermiculite plate lpz.su/products/vermikuli…ermikulitovaya-plita.html and this is not an advertisement. These guys helped me out more than once during the construction of a bathhouse and fireplace.

To begin with, we googled fire safety standards for the passage of a chimney through different types of structures. For wooden surfaces, the distance from the pipe should be (from memory) at least 30 cm, if you have a brick chimney and it is also lined with non-flammable material around it so that a spark does not fly out. I would remove the OSB and cover it with a sheet of DSP at least, and the passage through the wall can be lined with asbestos cord.

Do you think the indentation is too small?

Will there be a pipe sandwich? Look at the fact. How will you stoker? The OSB board may darken from the heat, and it may also release toxins. If you sew everything up with metal, also make sure that it doesn’t start to char under the metal.

An ordinary pipe will

There's a hole in the corner, mineral wool and OSB on top, so is it worth cutting off the OSB at a 30 cm distance from the pipe?

will not be superfluous, but it is necessary to take into account that the heat from the pipe will go upward more, so most of all it is necessary to protect the tree above the pipe

Is it possible to shield the roof above the pipe with plasterboard or galvanization?

If I were you, I would choose one general rule for myself - no tree closer than 50 cm from the stove and chimney. There are special non-flammable sheets, but they are expensive. Cheaper DSP, maybe GVL, but they must also be covered with a metal sheet to reflect heat. In potbelly stoves, the chimney can often become red hot at a distance of a meter from the stove, imagine how hot it will be there. And OSB can also release formaldehyde when heated, why would you breathe it in?!

There's a hole in the corner, mineral wool and OSB on top, so is it worth cutting off the OSB at a 30 cm distance from the pipe?

By the way, check the mineral wool with a gas burner, does it burn or not?

Source

Heat-resistant adhesive for sealing: scope of application, characteristics

This type of insulation is suitable for working with external walls of a fireplace, stove, as well as for processing the junction of brickwork and roofing.

It should not be used for stainless steel pipes, since it has a rather low heating temperature - only 350°C.

Heat-resistant sealant is made from silicone. The temperature range at which a product can be used is affected by the additional components present in the product and their percentages. The most common additional component is iron oxide, which gives the insulation a brown tint.

The main characteristics of this type are as follows:

Silicone has few disadvantages, but they still exist:

The rate of hardening of heat-resistant insulating material depends on the temperature at which the work takes place. At low temperatures and high humidity, the composition will take longer than indicated on the package. In dry air and high temperature it will harden faster. The insulation also adheres better to a dry surface.