How to cover lining in a bathhouse: means for protecting shelves and walls

No one doubts that the best finishing material for a bathhouse is wood. And almost everyone uses lining for interior decoration. But whether or not to treat the lining in a bathhouse is up to everyone to decide for themselves. Opinions here are divided: some say that without treatment with special means, wood darkens, loses its attractiveness, rots and is affected by disease. All this is true. But their opponents are definitely right: the combination of high temperature and humidity in the steam room, to which are added fumes from the treated boards, cannot be called a healing effect. But people come to the bathhouse specifically for health.

The lining looks great in a bathhouse or sauna

For the most part, lovers of baths and saunas make a compromise: in the steam room the lining is left without treatment, and for the relaxation room and washing room they use special products. Lining without treatment, of course, becomes unusable over time, but it will have to be changed no more than once every 2-5 years (depending on the type of wood and the intensity of use of the steam room). This is not such a big expense, especially since rarely does anyone have a large steam room. For those who decided to process wood in a steam room, there are several folk recipes or special (required!) compositions for baths/saunas.

Processing lining in a bath to prevent blackening

In order not to wonder why the lining in the bathhouse turns black, what to do, you can prevent the process of damage to the board.
The first thing you pay attention to when choosing a product is safety. Use indoors, especially in a bathhouse, implies the absence of toxic substances, the release of which increases with heat exposure

Among the natural remedies that are suitable for treating the inside of a bath, the most common are:

• Melted natural wax;
• Linseed oil;
• Special compositions for baths based on oils and wax, which can be bought in the store.

Treatment with compounds forms a thin, invisible film on the surface of the board, so the lining does not turn black even after years of active use and not very good ventilation. Before the finishing coat, it is recommended to treat the wood with an antiseptic solution based on boron salt. These compounds are harmless, suitable for use in damp and residential areas, and protect the lining from the formation of mold, mildew and blackening.

Impregnations and oils for steam rooms

Most bathhouse fans agree that there is no need to cover the lining inside the steam room with anything. But if there is such a need, then you can use natural oils and wax. Some experts advise soaking the boards in linseed oil, to which you can add natural aromatic oils of your choice. You can use hemp oil, and, the cheapest option, sunflower oil, but refined, with minimal odor.

It is better to use natural materials to decorate the steam room

This treatment will create a greasy film on the surface of the wood and will not allow dirt to penetrate deep into the wood. But you need to be prepared for the fact that for some time, parts of the body from contact with the treated shelf will be greasy. After some time, the oil will be absorbed (or wiped off), but the protective film will remain.

Similarly, you can treat the steam room with melted natural wax. Before applying wax, the surface must be thoroughly sanded and only then apply melted wax.

There is quite a large selection of impregnations for industrial shelves. For example, the same Russian company Usadba has oil for shelves, and there is a similar composition for Eurotex-sauna. Of course, Tikkuril also has them - this is Supi Laudesuoja oil.

If you use the steam room correctly, ventilate and dry it on time, then fungi and bark beetles will not grow in it. They die at high and low temperatures:

• At a temperature of 70-80°C, spores of all fungi and protozoa die within 10 minutes.
• At -15°C, young shashal larvae die, and if the temperature remains below -15°C for a week, then adult larvae also die.
• A temperature of 60°C is the upper limit at which bark beetles can survive.

At high and low temperatures, fungi and pests die

Useful tips for processing lining

The main mistake of users who are interested in how to coat high-quality lining in a new steam room is not understanding the difference between paint and varnish. It is strictly forbidden to use ordinary paint coatings in a bathhouse, only special compositions whose labels state that they are intended for environments with high humidity.

It is also not allowed to mix products from different manufacturers in the hope of enhancing their mutual effect. Often different companies use unique, incompatible components. For example, the Slovenian Interier Sauna from Belinka is made on the basis of acrylic resin, and the Russian “Aqualak Sauna” from Eurotex contains wax.

Do not coat wet surfaces with impregnations; they must be dried. If the instructions for use indicate that the mixture is applied to slightly moistened wood, then this is exactly what should be done. Moreover, recommendations for ventilating or drying the treated lining must be strictly followed: this determines how long it will last and whether it can withstand high temperature conditions.

Before applying aqua mixtures, the boards are cleaned - deposits of dirt, dust, grease, and old coatings are removed from their surface, and roughness and irregularities are sanded with sandpaper of various sizes. After this, dust removal is carried out: only then can impregnation begin.

It is not necessary to fanatically cover all wooden surfaces with special compounds. If it is possible to avoid this (for example, for shelves or benches on which people will sit in the bathhouse), then it is better to leave the wood in its natural form. In terms of tactile sensations, no other surface can compare with polished, well-processed wood, so you shouldn’t spoil it with “extra” components.

Processing sequence

In the case when the bathhouse is transformed using lining, it is recommended to protect this material. To do this, you need to treat the product with the appropriate mixture and dry thoroughly. However, only building materials prepared for this procedure should be processed. Preparation includes manipulations such as drying and polishing with sandpaper. What the coating should look like after this is shown in the photo.

If the coating has any contaminants, they are removed from the surface of the material with a metal or hair brush.

When the sheathing has become a haven for fungus, you will need special substances that have bleaching properties and are designed specifically for treating wood with them. It may happen that these actions were not effective, then the building material must be covered with stain, which should lighten the product. In addition, this product will improve protection and the casing will last longer.

Next, the dirt road enters the arena. The composition is very important here, since the quality of the procedure depends on it. The main criterion for choosing a primer is its compatibility with a specific type of wood. Along with this, it is necessary to take into account the transparency of the substance with which the casing will subsequently be coated.

The next step is impregnation of the building material. It prevents the appearance of dark spots and mold on the product. It is also necessary to process the product in this way so that it is not disturbed by insects. Impregnation will also protect the building material from rotting processes, which means the bathhouse will remain attractive for a longer time.

Of course, it will be better if you buy already impregnated lining. Not because it is very difficult to process it yourself, but because in production conditions a better effect is achieved. However, if you decide to do this task yourself, then buy special products that are only water-based.

How to treat lining in a bathhouse

The treated surface will not absorb moisture, which will have a positive effect on its service life. Among other things, the composition contains an antiseptic, which eliminates the occurrence of mold and mildew, as well as other microorganisms. You can be sure that the product is safe and environmentally friendly, it is not flammable and will not emit toxic fumes over time.

The first thing you need to do is assess the condition of the lining, this applies even to newly purchased ones. See if it has any flaws - roughness, small irregularities, chips, color spots. If there are any, they need to be eliminated.

For large volumes, you cannot do without an electric assistant. Here you can take a grinder - by the way, there are different types (belt, vibrating, orbital). You can also use a grinder with a grinding wheel.

We remove chips. If there are chips on the lining, perhaps fallen knots, then all this can also be corrected. To do this, you just need to purchase wood putty for varnish, this will make your lining smooth and without any minor defects. Of course, large potholes cannot be repaired in this way, since such material can be used in a layer no thicker than 2-3 mm.

If the wood of your lining is not evenly colored, it can also be evened out; there is a wood bleach for this. Having thoroughly soaked your lining with a brush or roller, it will take on a uniform natural color. The drying time and operation of the active components depends on many factors, but in most cases it is no more than twelve hours.

Preparatory measures also include the use of antiseptics. Impregnation with this substance is guaranteed to extend the service life of wood products. It protects against insects, fungi, mold, and some impregnations even improve the adhesion of paint and varnish coatings and make the material fireproof.

You need to saturate the lining with this product carefully and from all sides; the deeper the solution goes into the wood, the stronger the effect.

Now that our lining is well prepared, the same question remains - how to treat the lining in a bathhouse so that it has a long service life and looks very beautiful. We have two options for finishing the lining - natural and non-natural substances.

What is typical for natural oils and waxes is that they are of course harmless to the human body, but there is one thing: their validity period is very limited. That is, when choosing them, you will have to process the surface of the lining very often, for example once a month. Agree to rub the entire bathhouse with wax or oil is very labor-intensive.

Therefore, if we are talking about a steam room, then this is justified. But we will talk about this room a little lower, but how to treat the lining in the bathhouse in the rest room - there is only one answer, with a good varnish.

For your information, most of these primers have an antiseptic property - they also protect the wood from rodents, bugs, bacteria and mold. Therefore, by applying the primer well to the surface of the lining, you will get a double effect.

Well, now it’s time to varnish the lining, if, of course, it has dried well after the above procedures.

Well, there is only one problem left - what varnish to use for the bath. Since we are talking about treating the inside of a bathhouse, or rather a relaxation room, external varnishes are no longer needed. You only need to use varnish for interior work, and also so that it does not emit harmful substances. After all, even in the rest room - there will be steam, possibly elevated temperatures, direct contact with the body - you don’t want your body to receive a decent dose of toxic substances that will be released by the finish coating.

The lining inside the bath should only be treated with a high-quality finishing coating - do not skimp on your health. You need to buy imported, proven material - the countries that immediately come to mind are Germany, Finland... What do you think about China? I hope you decide on the country yourself.

Typically, such varnishes are water-based; they are odorless and dry quickly. In this case, such varnishes for treating baths do not emit harmful substances either in humidity or at high temperatures.

How to update the lining

Over time, the appearance of untreated lining ceases to please the owners. Wood tends to darken from moisture, but there is also soot that eats into the wood. For those who are no longer satisfied with this state of affairs and have decided to update the lining in the bathhouse, we have found tips that will help cope with any problem.

How and with what to remove soot

When carbon is not completely burned in a furnace (completely is CO2 or CO), it is released as an amorphous substance that we call “soot.” Soot deposited on the walls is soot.

Cleaning the lining in a bathhouse from soot is more difficult than it seems at first glance. It eats firmly into the wood. And when you try to wash it with soap and a brush, cleansing does not happen.

There are two proven methods for removing soot - mechanical and chemical.

Mechanically, everything is clear - the contaminated surface must be scraped off using any available method. Either manually or using a power tool - the same grinder with an abrasive wheel. As a result, the top layer of wood is removed, revealing a clean surface, and the result is what you need.

The chemical method does not require physical effort and takes much less time. On sale you can find products that were developed specifically to eliminate soot or soot from a fire.

As an example, let's name SYNTILOR Fuoco, DOCKER MAZBIT PLUS, “Facade Cleaner No. 2” from and the like.

The video clearly shows how the first of these tools works:

But here’s what’s interesting: all compounds that remove soot and soot contain... alkali as the main active component. No one says the composition, but there are just one or two strong alkalis, and their qualities are approximately the same. We mean sodium and potassium hydroxides - KOH and NaOH.

There is nothing stopping you from buying them at a store cheaply, diluting them with water and washing off the soot from the wood.

VERY IMPORTANT! If you don’t want chemical burns, don’t even try to work with alkali without covering your arms and legs with clothing, gloves and glasses. Chemical burns are worse than thermal burns, or rather deeper. And keep an acid solution nearby - vinegar, dilute citric acid - so you can immediately pour the place where the alkali got in. There is no use in rinsing with water!

After the soot disappears, be sure to wash off any remaining lye from the wall. We recommend doing this first with an acid solution (vinegar, lemon) so that the residues are neutralized, and then with clean water.

There is another way, but we like it even less than dangerous alkali. We are talking about a mixture of gasoline and washing powder with water . You already have a fire-hazardous building with a stove; soaking it in gasoline seems unnecessary.

But if you need to wash, say, a fireplace brick , but there is no alkali on hand, you can mix two tablespoons of washing powder, 100 ml of water, 100 ml of gasoline, then vigorously shake the mixture in a bottle and start scrubbing.

In general, it is clear that soot and soot are removed by degreasers. Yes, by the way, burnt baking sheets are washed in the same way as lining - with alkalis.

How to wash the paneling

We have already recommended a way to get rid of blue stains and lighten darkened wood using bleach (by the way, this is just a solution of sodium hypochlorite, bleach - you can prepare it yourself from powder).

BY THE WAY! If someone starts complaining that chlorine vapor will continue to be inhaled for a long time, don’t believe it. Because the smell (and therefore the volatile substances) disappears quickly, and there is no more cause for concern than when working with “Whiteness” at home. But it’s better not to pour it on your hands, of course.

You can do without bleach altogether if you walk over the darkened lining with a sander.

If the task is to get rid of sweat, grease and the like, then it will be enough to wash the lining in a bathhouse with a strong solution of laundry soap . Moreover, what is interesting: laundry soap contains residues of alkali from the saponification of vegetable fat (that’s how it is obtained), so it is not neutral, but slightly alkaline. So it turns out that you are again using alkali, only weak.

Some people may find washing with soap a long time - then just increase the alkaline component. Following the safety precautions described above, of course! Maybe you have a “MOLE” - breed it.

***

This is such a chemical and not only educational program. Like, share links with friends and subscribe to our channel in Telegram.

Requirements for finishing materials

Materials in the steam room must be environmentally friendly and safe. Since the temperatures inside the room are quite high, a large load is created on the material. There is a risk that the finish will become toxic and hazardous to health. To treat the inside of a bathhouse, you should use only natural wood, but plywood, plastic panels or chipboard are dangerous, so you should forget about them.

Another important point when choosing a finishing material is its durability. You should not buy cheap wood as it will not last long. In any case, the interior finishing needs to be changed every 3-4 years, since the operating conditions are quite harsh.

Products for treating steam room elements

Apply with a wide flat brush or spray in two layers. Second layer after 2-3 hours What is covered – walls. Not recommended for bath shelves and ceilings. There are other impregnations from the same manufacturer for this purpose.

Supi Laudesuoja is an oil-based impregnation. The substance is odorless and practically colorless, although after application it “highlights” the natural texture of the wood. Purpose - water-repellent and dirt-repellent paraffin impregnation of deep penetration. Creates a protective film layer on the surface. Easy to clean. Apply in one layer to cleaned surfaces. What is covered - bath shelves.

To clean the wooden surfaces of the bathhouse, including before applying impregnation, use the acidic detergent Supi Saunapesu.

Purpose: disinfection and dissolution of lime deposits. In addition, it whitens the surface. The substance is odorless. What it cleans is bath shelves, walls and floors.

All products used to process wood inside a bathhouse are divided into two groups: impregnating and coating agents. They are also often divided into colored and colorless, for example, wax, varnish and some impregnations.

What to take and what to do?

Processing sauna lining requires professional tools and materials of the best quality.

Saving here will result in frustration from an unimportant result and additional costs in the future. In addition to the paintwork materials themselves, you need:

• paint tray,
• brushes,
• solvent,
• protective equipment,
• scotch.

Treatment before installation

It is better to do the processing before stuffing the boards, outdoors. As a last resort, in a ventilated place, for example, under a canopy. It is necessary to impregnate not only the lining, but also the sheathing to which it will be joined.

Specialized impregnating compounds are safe; they do not emit harmful substances when the temperature rises.

For example, a good domestic product “U-409”, 210 rubles, will do. for 1 kg. Treatment inside the bathhouse with this composition will preserve the wood from mold and other destructive factors for a long time.

With the Tikkurila product, processing is at the highest level.

Other types of impregnations:

• Finnish means. They are used for a variety of purposes, including for impregnating lining in a bathhouse. Protects against fungus, rotting, improves appearance due to transparent film;
• compound . Effectively protects against all factors, including wood-boring insects. Valid for 30-35 years. Can be used independently or as a primer under paintwork materials;
• and others, countless of them.

Cover the finished skin with urethane-alkyd compounds, antiseptic and other protective agents. Together with impregnation, they protect the wood from fungi and rotting. As a rule, normal coatings retain their properties for up to 10 years.

If you often heat the room to a high temperature and then cool it down, there will be no problem.

Processing of lining in the steam room is carried out with the doors wide open, if possible, with an exhaust fan. Until the composition has completely dried, nothing else should be done there.

The dressing room does not have such stringent requirements for the material and coating. Still, for unity of style, it is better to use the same types of wood with the same structure and dimensions.

Video - finishing treatment of baths:

The lining should be mounted vertically everywhere: moisture will flow freely without accumulating in the joints. In addition, the vertical lines of the boards will visually increase the height of the room. In a bathhouse, the volume of rooms is usually small; with horizontal packing, the ceiling will noticeably press.

Oil for treating benches and shelves in a steam room is good for wood: it protects against blackening under the influence of steam, reveals the structure of the fibers, and compacts the wood.

Preparing a sauna

Before processing

Processing of the lining inside the bathhouse is carried out after installation is completed. Before filling the boards, it is necessary to prepare the walls, especially in the steam room.

The conditions there are the most difficult for structural materials. The floor of the bathhouse must be reliably isolated from groundwater. Thermal and waterproofing of the steam room is even more important.

1. Sheets of gray or white paper without paint (not newspaper) are glued onto clean, dry interior walls with a large overlap.
2. Then - foil polyethylene film. It will not allow moisture to reach the load-bearing walls and will effectively retain heat. This film will provide good vapor barrier. It should be secured with tape to prevent damage. The film must cover the entire steam room box, without gaps or cracks, otherwise steam will penetrate to the load-bearing walls, condensation will form, and the walls will be damaged.
3. Next is thermal insulation. The market offers a huge range of heat-insulating materials in ready-to-use form. For a bath, the best solution would be mineral wool in rolls.
4. The thermal insulation layer is attached to the wall with horizontal sheathing bars.
5. The lining is stacked vertically on it.
6. The ceiling is insulated with a double layer, because hot air rises and will release heat through a poorly insulated ceiling.

Video - DIY sauna lining (and then processing):

Good job - let's have a good rest

Steam room, bathhouse - the best help for health. And also a break from work and stress. Let's calculate the total cost of this benefit. Taking into account average numbers, but without the cost of the log house. We assume that he stood here forever.

Tools and technologies

The main tools for painting with almost any composition have been and will be the following:

• brush;
• roller;
• spray gun.

In addition, you can buy some types of paints in aerosol cans, but their cost is significantly higher than their counterpart in a can.

Brushes come in different types: from natural bristles, artificial bristles and mixed bristles. All of them are used for applying paints to one or another prepared surface. It is better to apply water-soluble paints using artificial bristle brushes; they do not retain water.

The brush is wetted by a third in the paint, on both sides. After that, the paint is applied to the cleaned surface with short (!) strokes. The direction of the strokes should always be along the grain of the wood.

Rollers are also different:

• foam;
• velor;
• fur;
• polyamide.

With the exception of foam rubber, all can be used for applying paints on any basis; foam rubber is suitable for water-soluble paints and nothing more.

The spray gun is convenient, but not as accessible as brushes and rollers. You will find varieties for water-soluble and alkyd paints, with an upper or lower location of the tank for the spray composition.

The paint is supplied under air pressure from the compressor, so you must first adjust its viscosity (using a solvent), and then adjust the air supply. This is often done experimentally. First, the maximum spraying is set, the flow of paint is checked - if it falls in the smallest drops, everything is fine, otherwise a solvent is added in an amount of 5% of the volume. Check again.

The air supply is calibrated by the type of drips under the stained spot: if they are at the edges, then the air flow should be reduced, if under the middle of the spot, then increase it.

The paint should be applied evenly, perpendicular to the surface, from a distance of 15 to 25 cm. Overlap the layers, but make sure that the width of the overlap is not more than half of the already painted area.

How to treat bath lining

Most sauna lovers agree that it is better not to cover the boards in the steam room with anything. But in this case, it will inevitably be necessary to periodically change the casing. This opinion is completely justified, because in conditions of very high temperatures and humidity, even a slight hint of odor can turn into harmful evaporation. However, you can treat the lining in the steam room using natural means. For example, vegetable oil. Most often, flaxseed or hemp oils are used.

Also, boards can be protected from external influences using wax. It is heated, then applied to a previously cleaned surface. Absorbing into the material, wax protects the surface, changing its properties, preventing it from absorbing excess moisture. But treatment with natural products is not without its drawbacks. For example, a wall covered in oil is not very pleasant to touch. Over time, the composition will be absorbed, and this inconvenience will pass, and the protective properties will be fully preserved.

To impregnate the lining, use only special compounds

Nowadays it is not at all difficult to purchase special products designed specifically for treating wooden surfaces in baths and saunas. Such impregnations are made from natural ingredients that are not harmful to health. It is strongly recommended to treat the lining with these products, designed specifically for conditions of heat and humidity. Ordinary varnishes and stains can only be used in general purpose premises, but not in the steam room.

The lining almost perfectly meets the requirements for finishing a bathhouse. This is a breathable, natural and very beautiful material. There is no need to be afraid that bark beetles and other insects or pathogens may take up residence in the natural tree structure. Almost all of them die at a temperature of 60 C°. And if you also freeze the steam room, then insecticidal and fungicidal treatment is not needed.

Processing shelves and benches

Saunas and baths are impossible without shelves or shelves. Just like other parts of the structure, they are made of wood. It should be remembered that the same impregnations cannot be used for them as for the floor, walls or ceiling. As you know, steam room conditions require strong heating of all surfaces. If unprotected parts of the body come into contact with a hot bench, a person may receive a severe burn. Therefore, impregnations should not form films.

The wooden shelves of the steam room can be treated with oil compositions intended for saunas. A universal protective composition with wax is also suitable. Example: Supi Saunavaha product produced by Tikkurila. This impregnation is suitable for treating almost all sauna surfaces: window frames, walls, shelves, ceilings.

Subtleties of applying protective compounds

If you don’t know what to impregnate the walls in a bathhouse with, then this article will be relevant for you, because special impregnations for a bathhouse are suitable for any wooden surface, but it is also worth remembering some subtleties:

• It is much easier to process an unassembled structure, so if you have such an opportunity, saturate the elements of the bathhouse before assembling them;
• Protective products can have a negative effect on the skin, so to avoid this nuisance, you may not treat the side of the shelf in contact with humans. You can process the rest of the wood in the bathhouse without fear for your health, because only the shelves can affect the skin;
• Carry out work in the summer to make it easier to dry the steam room;
• It takes at least 4 days to completely dry the varnish and impregnations, after which you can relax in your bathhouse;
• Under no circumstances use highly toxic products, such as stains, because they negatively affect your health not only through the skin, but also through the respiratory tract;

Do not skimp on protective solutions, because your health and longevity of wood structures depend on their quality.

Classification of methods for surface finishing of materials

How to treat the lining depends on the condition and material of the walls. Most often you can:

• perform mechanical cleaning;
• make a primer;
• impregnate with varnishes;
• paint the lining;
• perform heat treatment.

Mechanical cleaning is performed only for linings of lower classes, and as an auxiliary means before other processing methods. This can be avoided if you do not skimp on finishing with the highest quality material, and also use sanding of the lining before attaching it to the sheathing. Sanding is carried out using a stiff steel brush, which is moistened in a concentrated solution of universal bleach. It is necessary to check whether the color of the surface will change.

Primer consists of pre-coating the surface of the material with various stains. The composition of stains is usually adapted by their manufacturers to specific types of wood, so the selection of the composition will be individual. Preference should be given to tinting stains, which, in addition to disinfecting components, also contain coloring agents.

The nature of the effect is similar to stains and varnish coatings. They also allow you to further improve the aesthetic characteristics of the walls.

Domestic impregnations

Antiseptic Senezh sauna

Purpose – protection against biological parasites (fungus, woodworms, mold, etc.), as well as hygienic (antimicrobial) prevention. This antiseptic is designed specifically for use in conditions of high temperatures and humidity. Apply with a wide brush, short-haired roller or spray in 2-3 layers.

What is covered are wooden surfaces that are not in contact with humans (walls, ceilings, doors - just places covered with clapboard).

A few words about the use of drying oil. Yes, it is inexpensive and after processing, the lining looks nice, but drying oil, “this is not about a bathhouse.” I'll say it briefly:

Firstly, it practically does not protect the tree from steam.

Secondly, at high temperatures it releases an unpleasant odor and harmful toxins.

So, think a hundred times: whether to use “this oil” in a bath or not.

Another good buy is acrylic varnish for saunas, Evrotex Sauna. The colorless substance is applicable in rooms from temperatures up to 150°C.

"Eurotex Sauna" is an antiseptic that provides a water and dirt-repellent coating to protect against biological influences, as well as antimicrobial prophylaxis. Contains natural wax, which creates a protective film on the surface of the lining that can be washed with acidic and neutral agents without the risk of damage.

Suitable for both new and old (pre-cleaned) boards. Apply with a regular brush or spray in 2-3 layers. What is covered is all wooden surfaces, except bath shelves.

A few words about bleaches for lining. It is used for board surfaces that have become darkened as a result of fungal staining and biological damage. Also effective for “rejuvenating” old wood. Among domestic products, we can recommend Senezh Neo, made on the basis of an oxidizing agent. It is applicable to wood that has not previously been treated with paints and varnishes. The product is odorless and does not affect the natural color of the wood.

In conclusion, I note that you can use different means to work with the lining inside the bathhouse. But I repeat, one condition - they must be created specifically for the bath. There are all sorts of do-it-yourself processing options. If you are sure that it will be useful and safe - go ahead! But know that making the “right” chemical is more difficult than making homemade sausage.

Anecdote about a bathhouse. In ancient China, baths were not divided into women's and men's, but when the population exceeded a billion, everyone realized that this was a mistake.

I hope that the material presented is useful. Finally, as usual: subscribe to the news and introduce your friends to the blog. Good luck and make the right choice for you!

Wisdom Quote: A hot-tempered person will never know the truth.

Application methods

To cover the walls of the interior of a bathhouse or steam room made of lining you will need: a set of brushes, a roller, a paint tray, a respirator, glasses, gloves, clothing that protects against paint getting on the body, a sponge, a solvent or its varieties.

Here are some nuances that are important to consider in advance:

• the lining must be treated with an antiseptic before it is installed in place;
• the lathing is also impregnated with the working composition and given time to dry;
• Having installed the lining, the entire finishing perimeter must be covered with fungicides and fire retardants again, then once every two years.

Prepare each deck board by sanding it down. Be sure to remove all dirt and unevenness, giving the material natural beauty. Only after this can you use a liquid solution at the rate of 300 g of soda per 10 liters of warm water. Use this mixture to remove any wood dust that has formed and disinfect the boards.

Then protect your body, vision and breathing from the physical and chemical effects of the working composition. To do this, wear a protective suit, goggles, a respirator and gloves. Treat the surface with an antiseptic. It will protect the lining from mold and other microorganisms.

To carry out the work, use oil-based impregnations, safe and high-quality water-based acrylic compounds, as well as antiseptics for bleaching wood and combating lime deposits.

Then dilute the working fluid in the paint tray to the required consistency. The tray is needed more for the convenience of working with the roller.

Using paint brushes and a roller, apply a protective composition to the surface of the lining.

Upon completion of work, provide ventilation in the room and allow the protective composition to dry in accordance with the instructions.

Features of aspen cladding

When aspen wood is processed correctly and technological rules are observed during drying, a stunning result is obtained. The wood acquires special strength, then the ax bounces off it, and even a nail is not easy to drive into such material.

The decoration of a bathhouse or sauna does not tolerate inattention to even the smallest details

Any element is equally important and should not be deprived of attention, such as: stove, chimney, thermal insulation, and the structure itself

When laying the thermal insulation material, the sheathing slats where the aspen panels will be attached are made a couple of centimeters smaller so that the panel fits more tightly between them.

Safety and comfort in the bathhouse are determined by the interior decoration, so we will pay close attention to this. So:

So:

• The instructions for covering ceilings and walls in the steam room recommend installing profiles either horizontally or vertically;
• Vertical installation involves the use of short materials, which are an order of magnitude cheaper than a long profile;
• The joint must be calculated so that it is not visible behind the back or shelf; we disguise the joints behind any decorative elements;
• This trick will help you save on material, as well as get rid of gaps between panels during temperature changes, from normal to high and back;
• In visible areas of the steam room, you should use a profile of a class not lower than “A”, while under the shelves, in order to save money, you can use a material of a lower grade, for example, “B”;
• When the panels are installed correctly, the finish acquires a particularly aesthetically pleasing appearance;
• Before installing the panels, it is necessary to carry out work on thermal insulation of the room; as a rule, the choice of material remains with the owner of the bathhouse, but the craftsmen recommend using basalt wool with a thickness of at least 5-10 cm;
• Thermal insulating wool is mounted between the lathing slats, in cells measuring 50x50 or 100x50 cm, installed on the wall and ceiling;
• Mineral wool is covered with foil, which reflects heat and also provides vapor barrier;
• The joints should be glued with foil self-adhesive;
• A lathing with cells of 20x40 cm is installed on the installed mineral wool with vapor barrier;
• Air movement is ensured by gaskets 10-20 mm thick, secured under the sheathing bars;
• Installation of aspen lining begins from the left corner of any wall;
• When installing panels, especially if you do it yourself, it is best to use clapboard clamps, driven in with special nails or screwed with stainless steel screws to the sheathing slats;
• The installation of the lining is considered complete only after fastening the aspen fillets in the corners, as well as at the joints of the ceiling and walls;
• In order to extend the life of the wood, as well as to ensure easy maintenance, the panels are impregnated with protective agents based on natural wax and special oils.

Questions and answers

Why is it better to use eurolining for cladding the interior of a bathhouse, rather than imitation timber or a block house?

This choice is driven by economic considerations. The cost of cladding with eurolining is significantly lower than the cost of imitation timber or block house.

Can cracks appear in a linden log house over time?

No cracks appear in linden log houses during operation until the moment when the wood begins to rot.

Where is it better to install linden doors in a bathhouse?

Linden doors can be installed in any room. They do not absorb moisture, do not deform and do not change their geometric dimensions over time.

How does fake eurolining differ from regular lining?

On the inside of the eurolining there are grooves to remove moisture condensation, which a conventional profile does not have. Eurolining is thinner and has a larger tenon (8-10 mm). This allows you to connect a profile that meets European standards with virtually no gaps.

Is it possible to use linden boards with natural humidity to decorate a bathhouse?

It is not recommended to use such material for finishing work. When it dries, it will become severely deformed.

Advantages of aspen lining

After the owner has erected a steam room on his property, the question arises of how to line the inside of the room. Every sane person decides in favor of an aspen profile. Let's consider the beneficial qualities of panels made from this type of wood.

So:

Aspen wood does not warp or crack, and is also resistant to high humidity, which is what distinguishes saunas and steam rooms; A product made from this rock is not subject to rotting; Even with high humidity, aspen does not change its appearance and remains clean and light; It withstands impacts well and is also resistant to mechanical stress; Due to the fact that this type of wood is very difficult to heat up, unlike other types, touching such a profile will not cause inconvenience or discomfort to people in the steam room; This wood, which is minimally resinous, does not release resin during heating, which is extremely important in a bathhouse to avoid burns; A unique feature of this breed is that it kills harmful fermentation fungi. Our ancestors also used this feature by placing aspen logs in tubs in which cabbage was fermented.

Such cabbage did not become acidic, did not become rotten or moldy; Aspen cladding has a healing effect on the human body; Joint diseases, as well as various bronchitis, go away much easier and faster with frequent interaction of the patient with this type of wood; The aroma of this wood contains some bitterness, but aspen has anthelmintic and anti-inflammatory properties; Like a vampire tree, lining made from this type of wood has the effect of drawing out negative energy and alleviates the condition of the sick; Its healing and beneficial qualities are revealed more clearly and effectively when taking bath procedures;

Aspen lining is ideal for a light bathhouse, and this is exactly what your bathhouse will look like when using this type of wood, since aspen has an extraordinary and, at the same time, surprisingly noble property of emitting a silvery glow when covered with a ploughshare. This type of coating was widely used in architecture.

Why are sauna logs rarely made from linden?

Despite the fact that linden is considered an ideal tree for a bathhouse, log houses are made from it extremely rarely. The reason for this is the high cost of wood and its fragility. Linden buildings maintain a good microclimate and a pleasant honey aroma is felt, which repels rodents from the structure.

Making baths from linden was common in Rus'. Peter I had such a bathhouse made from a simple solid linden tree. The advantages of linden log houses include the rare occurrence of cracks in the material and the minimum percentage of its shrinkage. The linden structure is lightweight, which reduces the requirements for foundation construction. It is easy to retain heat in it.

Other advantages of the material include:

• Medicinal properties of wood. The substances it releases into the air help cope with colds, cellulite and prevent liver diseases.
• The material is easily amenable to all types of processing.
• The fibers have a low density, which allows the wood to “breathe”.

Expert opinion

Lovkachev Boris Petrovich

Bath master who knows everything about steaming

All these advantages are offset by serious disadvantages. The lack of resin in linden wood causes increased interest in it from tree pests. Linden log houses require frequent treatment with antiseptics and are subject to rapid rotting in regions with a humid climate.

All this forces lovers of linden bathhouses to limit themselves only to interior decoration from it, and make log houses from other types of trees.

What characteristics does the surface of wood in a bathhouse have?

When choosing wooden lining for finishing inside a bathhouse, it is important to take into account the main characteristics of the material:

• High moisture resistance. Wood should not only absorb well, but also release excess moisture, which ensures the necessary balance of humidity in the premises.
• Low thermal capacity. Heavy wood species are able to accumulate thermal energy, increasing the internal heating temperature of the fibers. A material with a low level of heat capacity provides not only sufficient heat accumulation, but also does not cause overheating of the premises.
• Resistance to biological and chemical influences.
• Durability and practicality in extreme conditions - with temperature changes and high humidity.

To ensure a long service life of the decorative coating, it is necessary to choose high-quality types of wood that can be used in rooms with high humidity.

Protective products for baths from different manufacturers

When processing wood inside a steam room, you should not experiment too much. You need to choose varnishes and impregnations made specifically for baths and saunas. Those who produce such products take into account the conditions and requirements for such premises.

The Finnish company Tikkurila is considered the leader of such products.

Supi Saunasuoja – water-based impregnation with acrylic. Suitable for temperatures above 100 °C. A universal product for internal protection of steam rooms. Available in both a colorless version and a form suitable for tinting.

Impregnation Supi SaunasuojaSource marketut.ru

• Supi Laudesuoja – oil impregnation suitable for covering shelves
• Supi Saunavaha is a wax-based varnish. It is also considered universal and suitable for any bath surfaces.

Imported compounds have one drawback - the price. Domestic manufacturers provide cheaper products. Here are some designed specifically for bath conditions:

• Senezh sauna is an acrylate-based antiseptic to protect wood in saunas. Contains antimicrobial agents but is odorless.
• NEOMID 200 – antiseptic for wooden bath surfaces, including shelves and benches.
• NEOMID Sauna is a translucent acrylic-based varnish. For protecting and finishing wood in rooms with high humidity.

NEOMID Sauna varnish for bathsSource gros-stroi.ru

Stages of wood impregnation

Linseed oils are used for wood processing in two ways, it all depends on personal preferences and the size of the surfaces being treated:

• Soaking is only suitable for small items (decorative figurines, dishes, etc.);
• Coating (rubbing in).

The following steps will tell you how to treat wood with linseed oil impregnation.

Preparatory stage

Before you start coating wood at home, you must first carefully prepare the surface to be treated. If this is a newly manufactured product, then the surface is simply sanded with high quality using fine sandpaper. Impregnating wooden products with a large area, for example, the facade of a house or previously exposed surfaces, is a little more difficult.

Preparatory work algorithm:

1. Get rid of the old coating, that is, varnish or paint. There are several methods you can use here. Try removing the old paint using a spatula and a wire brush. If it doesn’t work, then you need to use a hair dryer.
2. Sanding the surface. For this process, sandpaper with varying degrees of abrasive coating is used. You should start with the larger one, gradually reaching the smallest one. The surface is ready if, after running your hand over it, we do not feel any irregularities.
3. Remove dust using a soft brush and rag. The key to high-quality oiling with linseed oil for wood is a well-cleaned surface from dust.

Coating process

Oiling of prepared wood can be done using the oiling method. The oil is applied either with an ordinary soft rag or with a brush that has natural bristles. Although painting with a brush is only suitable for small areas. As for the facade of the house, ceilings and other things, you only need to apply oil to the wood with a rag.

Linseed oil for wood is applied according to the following algorithm:

1. Pre-stir the composition and pour the required amount into a clean container.
2. Moisten a rag and treat the surface with it. It is necessary to apply the composition along the wood fibers.
3. After treating the wood with linseed oil, you need to let the surface dry for about 20 minutes, then remove the excess with a clean rag.
4. The product soaked in wood coating oil is left to dry for some time, and then the wood is re-coated with linseed oils.

Soaking process

Processing wood by soaking, as mentioned above, is only suitable for small products. The process of soaking wood with oil is quite simple: oil is poured into a clean container, and then the prepared, dust-free product is placed there. You can hold it as long as you like.

After the product has been soaked for some time, it is removed and placed on paper in an inclined state. This will allow excess flaxseed oil to drain. When we have got rid of the excess, polish the surface with a clean and soft cloth. Next, leave the product to dry.

The technology for oiling wood with linseed oil is quite simple, but it will reliably protect it from the effects of negative factors. And, if we compare it with various types of industrial compounds, then it is possible to coat wood with oils without harm to human health. Processing wooden products is a process that should not be neglected.

Recommendations from experts

It is better to treat areas of direct contact with the skin with compounds that do not form a film.
But there is a practical solution to this problem. After processing the wood, you need to heat the stove. This promotes deep penetration of the composition. And excess dry residue can be removed with a soft rag. Processing regimentsSource banya-expert.com

When working with oil- or wax-based materials, it is better to use tools with felt pads rather than brushes with rollers. As a result, the process of applying the composition will turn into rubbing. This will have a positive effect on the consumption of impregnation or mastic, uniform distribution and filling of all microcracks in the wood. In addition, after the product dries, the film will have a minimum thickness.

You can learn more about wood processing oils from the video:

Regardless of the material chosen, it is important to carefully follow the recommendations from the manufacturer. Thus, to apply the first layer, it is often permissible to dilute the composition, which improves the quality of finishing and reduces consumption

Some products need to be preheated before use, dissolved or simply stirred. The climatic conditions of use are also different, as is the condition of the prepared surface. And also, rarely, but there is weak adhesion of the finishing coating with antiseptics, an additional layer of primer is required.

Lacquer for use in the bath Source saunaexpo.com

Protective impregnations for lining

First, what are they for:

Firstly: for durability; Secondly: for a pleasant aesthetic appearance.

By durability we mean long-term resistance to various physical (excess humidity and extreme temperature changes) and biological (fungus, mold, wood-eating insects, etc.) influences. By pleasant appearance, we mean the absence of dark spots and uniform color shade of the lining. And one more thing - the absence of an unpleasant odor.

Fundamentally: to treat lining in a bathhouse, it is strictly forbidden to use ordinary paints and varnishes. This is a death sentence for your health. You can only use special heat-resistant and water-repellent impregnations created for baths and saunas.

Briefly about the main thing

To process lining in a bathhouse, materials that are resistant to temperature changes, humidity, and washing are used. Also important is inertness to fungus, mold, bacteria, and a safe composition for humans.

When heated, many materials release toxins and other harmful substances, so the use of antiseptics, fire retardants, drying oils, varnishes with solvents and acrylic resins is unacceptable for the steam room.

For walls and ceilings, impregnations, mastics, oils and some varnishes are used. For shelves only oil or wax based formulations. This prevents the formation of a thick film to avoid burns.

Bleach is used in any room of the bathhouse, but before further processing of the wood, it is necessary to wait until the chlorine evaporates and the hydrogen peroxide decomposes.

Antiseptics and fire retardants are classified as pre-treatment agents for wood, but are not used as independent coatings. They protect the lining and help reduce the consumption of the finishing coating.

Source

Covering saunas and baths: what's the difference?

Bathhouses and saunas differ in humidity and temperature.

In the sauna, the air is dry with humidity up to 8% with a permissible temperature range of 80–140 degrees.

In the Russian steam room, high humidity is always maintained with an indicator of up to 70%. In this case, the maximum permissible temperature is up to 100 degrees.

There are no restrictions on the choice of tree species for sauna cladding, with the exception of pine. Raw materials are less susceptible to moisture and therefore last longer. Installation method: vertical, horizontal.

For lining a Russian bathhouse, it is better to take lining made of alder, linden, abasha, and larch. The combination of several breeds at the same time looks beautiful. The installation method is predominantly horizontal.

Wall protection in the steam room

After antiseptic treatment, the final coating of the lining is made. We need to resolve the issue of how to cover the lining in the steam room. Experts advise using several types of materials to protect lumber:

• oil;
• dye;
• varnish

Oil

Linseed oils and drying oil are used as processing. Such impregnation is acceptable in the washing room and dressing room. Oil coating does not withstand heat and high humidity. This affects the durability of wood cladding.

Dye

After treatment with drying oil, the lining is often painted. The paint is oil based. Synthetic dyes are not used in sauna conditions because of their ability to emit toxic fumes, which is dangerous in a small confined space.

Varnish

Of all materials, furniture varnish is considered the ideal coating for wooden walls.

However, this type of lining processing must be treated with caution. The fact is that the product mixed with a solvent in the steam room of the bath will fill the air with harmful fumes for a long time

Without adequate ventilation, the room will remain unsafe for the people in it.

Protective acrylic varnish does not cause such negative effects. Products of this type are most suitable for covering walls in a steam room. The treated surface can withstand heated air up to 120°. The retail chain offers a wide selection of acrylic coatings designed for hot rooms with high humidity levels.

Why does the lining turn black in the bathhouse?

The steam room is associated with high temperatures and humidity; the wood is constantly exposed to hot water vapor, which begins the process of blackening in the fibers. Among the reasons why the lining in the bathhouse turns black, the main ones are:

• Excessive humidity inside. It is impossible to exclude this factor, because the steam room was created to enjoy hot steam and high temperatures.
• Poor hydro and vapor barrier on the outside. This factor is a continuation of the previous one, it is responsible for the possibility of removing excess steam and humidity to the outside.
• Small stone ovens instead of massive brick ones. Why did the lining in the bathhouse blacken much less often before? After completing the procedures, the brick oven cooled down for a long time, completely drying the room. Modern heating elements inside steam rooms cool down much faster, without having time to properly dry the wooden paneling. The moisture remains inside the boards and the process of blackening the lining begins.
• The absence of protective screens around the furnace leads to darkening of the lining due to exposure to high temperatures. This factor is dangerous not so much because of the loss of the appearance of the skin, but rather because of the possibility of fire. Metal protection is required in all potential areas of heat exposure.

Surface care

After performing bath procedures you must:

1. Wipe wooden surfaces with a dry cloth.
2. Wipe off dirt with a damp cloth. You can use gentle detergents. After this, wipe the surfaces with a dry cloth.
3. Ventilate the steam room.

The protective coating should be renewed every 6 months.

To prevent the wooden surfaces inside the steam room from being destroyed due to high humidity, temperature changes, and to prevent mold, mildew, and darkening from appearing on them, you need to treat the wood with a protective compound

It is important to choose a product that will not release harmful substances when heated strongly. After purchasing the composition, you must study the instructions for its application and carry out the processing

When the lining is processed, you must first wait for the antiseptic to dry, and then you can begin bathing procedures.

Is it necessary to process

The question is far from idle, because there are many bathhouse lovers who will say that treating the inside of the bathhouse lining is completely unnecessary, because there is no coating that would not negatively affect human health.

For our part, we will say that this, of course, was the case for a long time, while the paint and varnish industry used exclusively solvents based on organic compounds - indeed, very poisonous and causing inconvenience both during painting and for some time after, until everything volatile evaporates.

But today you have water-based varnishes and paints at your disposal. They are recognized as harmless and can be used to paint rooms where children are present. The acrylic coating contains resins that dissolve with water only up to a certain point, namely, before polymerization. If the water has evaporated and the mixture has polymerized, then it is then resistant to moisture.

In addition, there are even more natural impregnations intended only to make the surface of the wood water-repellent. They are made from linseed oil, in some cases no less natural beeswax is added, or there are impregnations based on paraffin oil (paraffin is a product of petroleum refining, but harmless; candles are made from it).

IMPORTANT! Drying oil is also made from linseed oil, but contains heavy metal salts and other additives needed to speed up drying, so we categorically do not recommend using it in a bathhouse. And not only in the steam room, but everywhere - the smell is strong and unpleasant... In general, today there are enough harmless (!) options for how to treat and cover the lining in the bathhouse

Therefore, we firmly declare that this must be done! There is only one reason: all coatings serve a single purpose - they extend the service life of wooden building materials

In general, today there are quite a few harmless (!) options for how to treat and cover the lining in a bathhouse. Therefore, we firmly declare that this must be done! There is only one reason: all coatings serve a single purpose - they extend the service life of wooden building materials.

ATTENTION! This is especially true for those located outside and exposed to constant negative effects of precipitation, high and low temperatures, as well as ultraviolet radiation.

And if you agree with us, then we can move on to considering what is suitable for processing lining in a bathhouse, as well as what to impregnate and paint the lining with. Do not consider this a tautology, because we are talking about completely different compositions for different purposes.

What to cover: types of coatings

Since antiseptics in a separate class (we do not consider them “coatings”, reserving this name for paint and varnish products), we will talk about everything else.

At our disposal:

• impregnation for wood from oil, oil wax or wax;
• water-based varnishes;
• varnishes based on organic solvents;
• water-based paints;
• paints based on organic solvents;
• water-based glazes;
• glazes based on organic solvents.

As you can see, today you can purchase any coating for lining in a water-based bath, which is good for interior work.

Impregnation

Silicone, for Elcon lining

An affordable way to give wood water- and dirt-repellent properties. You can buy a ready-made composition in the store - many of the companies specializing in paint and varnish products, especially if they have lines for baths and saunas, will offer you liquid and solid oils, oil waxes and waxes , which are suitable for impregnating lining in a bathhouse.

Those who have access to pure linseed oil, wax and other ingredients can independently make impregnation that is in no way inferior to the factory one.

Watch the video, the author of which is not overjoyed at how he coated the bathhouse inside and outside with his own oil wax and shares the recipe:

Yes, it should also be noted that for some not entirely clear reason, some people also classify bath varnishes as impregnations. We think this is incorrect; varnishes are a separate category.

What to soak in the steam room

Oils, oil waxes and waxes of homemade or industrial production are quite suitable for impregnating a steam room - if we are talking about purchased products, then it will be said there whether it is suitable for walls, for ceilings, floors, or only for shelves in a bathhouse - one of the categories of furniture.

There are some differences between factory impregnations, but if you make your own impregnation based on linseed oil, it can be used for both shelves and walls. The author of the video above also covered the outside of the bathhouse with this mixture.

IMPORTANT! Distinguish oil-based impregnations from water-based acrylic varnishes - these are different things, even if the store salesperson says that this is a branded impregnation from some well-known company.

The oil can be not only linseed or rapeseed, or some other natural oil extracted from plants, but also paraffin oil - I think we’ve already talked about this.

Painting: varnishes, paints, azures

Example: NEOMID Sauna - acrylic-based wood protective varnish

All types of paint and varnish products can be divided into those that are suitable for use indoors and outdoors. The division is significant because inside we have a more stable microclimate , less harmful effects from the environment, but harmlessness to humans becomes an important requirement.

From the outside, wood is affected by heat, cold, snow, rain, ultraviolet radiation, so the protection must be much more powerful, and this requires more aggressive chemistry , the use of which is justified, because harmful fumes from the outside will simply dissipate in space.

ATTENTION! It is for these reasons that it is highly recommended not to confuse the compositions, and to use inside what is intended for exteriors and outside what is intended for interiors. In the first case, you risk harming your health, in the second, you are simply throwing money away.

Detailed information about painting a bathhouse, how and how to treat doors, windows, tanks and other elements and objects is presented in a separate article.

What to paint inside

An ideal option for all rooms (and not just for the steam room and washing room) would be water-based varnishes and paints . They have a lot of advantages - they smell very little, their smell does not lead to nausea and dizziness, redness of the skin and other signs of poisoning of the body, which always occurs when working with compounds based on organic solvents.

At the same time, there are varnishes and paints that are specially created for covering walls with ceilings or floors in a steam room. Watch a video with tests of such varnishes from Tikkurila, Dulux and another Russian one:

How do varnishes differ from water-based paints? Both are acrylates that dissolve with water, but varnishes are always more transparent and allow you to see the texture of the wood, and paints are more opaque, opaque , under a thin layer we can only see the texture or feel the texture relief.

However, water-soluble paints and varnishes are not all that can be used in the interior of a bathhouse. Painting lining in a bath can also be done with dyes based on organic solvents, if they are intended for interior decoration. The exception is the steam room, but you already know about that.

You will find more detailed information about varnishes and paints suitable for interiors in this article.

How to paint the outside

As already mentioned, you have at your disposal the entire range of paint and varnish products marked on the label “for facades” and “for exterior use.”

You need to focus on this: some compositions already contain an antiseptic, others contain it not in the varnish or paint itself, but in the primer, which should be used to treat the surfaces before painting. Moreover, primers are produced for certain compositions, but you can also combine primers from different companies.

IMPORTANT! When painting exteriors, an antiseptic is extremely desirable, and a non-washable one is better. Fire retardants - optional.

Further, in addition to the antiseptic, the composition must contain a UV filter that will protect from the sun, as well as substances responsible for the elasticity of the coating, that is, the ability to shrink and expand with the wood without tears or cracks. Of course, they are not found in all varnishes and paints, but their presence is preferable.

ADVICE! Since we are talking about a bathhouse, it would be nice to pay attention to the vapor permeability of the paintwork - the better it releases water pores through itself, the better for us. And it’s very good if precipitation does not moisten the wood.

In general, you can paint the outside of the lining in a bathhouse with whatever you like and can afford - from homemade impregnation to latex paints.

Exterior dyes are discussed more fully in this article.

reviewed all paint and varnish products suitable for use in baths and saunas in this article.

Paint (interior and exterior) only

What drying oil to use in the bath

To the question, can you cover the lining in a bathhouse with drying oil, there is no clear answer. Now the steam room has lost its former status as a room created exclusively for hygiene procedures. Today, every home has a bathroom, and people go to the sauna to have a pleasant time and improve their health. The extremely high temperature and humidity inside the steam room requires the most natural composition for impregnations and coatings, or better yet, their complete absence.

If the bathhouse is built correctly, ventilation and hygienic cleaning after the procedures will be sufficient to preserve the quality and appearance of the wood. If it is still necessary to cover the walls, floor, ceiling and beds, use only specialized compounds, natural oils or drying oils based on them.

Flaxseed oil is the safest option for treating bathhouse premises. The mixture based on it is safe and does not release toxic substances when heated. Immediately after coating and complete drying for several days, a stable aroma will remain in the bathhouse, intensifying when heated. Several cycles of work without visitors will help get rid of it and safely use the steam room for its intended purpose.

Other types of drying oils, with the exception of synthetic ones, can be used to treat lining in the dressing room, locker room, rest room and wash room, where exposure to high temperatures will not provoke the release of chemicals and harm to human health.

Flaxseed oil for baths: features of use

Features of using linseed oil for baths

• Environmental friendliness
  . Flax oil does not emit toxic substances and is even used to impregnate wooden utensils.
• Reliable protection
  . The composition is able to penetrate deeply into the structure of the tree.
• Hydrophobicity
  . Effective moisture rejection.
• Maintaining appearance
  . The transparent coating preserves the grain of the wood and prevents it from rotting and darkening.
• Antiseptic effect
  . Flaxseed oil protects the surface from the effects of fungus and mold.
• Convenient application
  . Processing is possible even in hard-to-reach places.
• Relatively cheap
  . Compared to special impregnations for baths from leading manufacturers, the composition has a low cost.

Internal bath treatment with linseed oil

Instructions for applying linseed oil inside the bath

In the process of internal treatment of a bath with linseed oil, we adhere to the following sequence:

1. Sand the surface and clean it from dust. Never use a damp cloth for this.
2. Stir the oil thoroughly. It is not recommended to dilute it with water. This will impair further polymerization.
3. We heat it to a temperature of 50-60 degrees.
4. Apply to the wood along the grain with a brush or cotton cloth. We try to make the layer thin and even.
5. After complete drying, sand the surface and apply a second layer.
6. We repeat the procedure 5-6 times with alternating grinding.
7. Leave until completely dry for two to three weeks. To speed up the hardening process, you need to use not raw, but heat-treated oil. Then the operation of the steam room is possible after 5-6 days.

Treating a bath with a mixture of linseed oil and wax

We carry out the work in this order:

• We sand the wood and remove dust.
• Prepare a mixture with wax in a 2:1 ratio. To do this, add heated wax to boiled flax oil and mix thoroughly.
• Apply the composition to the surface using a foam sponge along the fibers.
• After drying, wipe off the residue with a waffle cloth and apply a second coat.
• We warm up the steam room and remove any protruding drops of wax from the surface.

External bath treatment with linseed oil

Cleaning linseed oil before coating the bath

1. Rinse with salt water. For a high-quality result, this procedure must be repeated 5-7 times.
2. Adding metal salt. The oil is mixed with lead salt and heated to 60-70%.
3. Adding ethanol. The best option for removing contaminants.
4. Exposure to light. The process is called photo-oxidation. Involves preliminary hydroflushing. To do this, the oil must be boiled with water, and then strained.

Instructions for external impregnation of a bathhouse with linseed oil

The procedure is performed in this order:

• Thoroughly sand the surface and remove wood dust.
• Mix flax oil with turpentine in parts of 70:30 and heat to a temperature of 50-60 degrees.
• Apply the first layer with a soft brush and wait for it to dry.
• We grind the surface and impregnate it a second time.
• After complete hardening, apply the third layer.

conclusions

Do not forget that the new, just installed lining must be treated with fire retardants that increase the fire resistance of wood - Biopiren "Pirilax"-Terma or Terma Lux-D (branded products produced by various manufacturers in Russia). The photo shows products from Siberian manufacturers, but in your region the product may look different.

The key word on the labels is “fire protection”

It is useless to treat a previously varnished surface with an antiseptic. The varnish needs to be removed - cleaned with sandpaper or a scraper. In conclusion, we suggest watching the video to reinforce what you have read.

Order of operations

Familiarization with color on a small board
So:

• Before treating the lining in the steam room, you need to make sure the humidity in the room, which should not be less than 75%, and the air temperature not lower than 5ºC.
• All dirt and dust are removed from the surface being treated.
• The cleaned surface is slightly moistened to reveal loose wood fibers that appear after the water has dried. They are carefully polished.
• If the lining in the bathhouse is protected with acrylic, then it is applied in 2 layers.
• The tinted layer is diluted with water up to 20%; for a colorless composition there is no such need.
• The next layer is applied continuously to several boards at once to obtain the same color.
• Before painting the paneling in the steam room over the entire surface, you can apply two layers of protection to a small board and look at the final result.
• If it is decided to protect the lining in the steam room with a modern colorless antiseptic based on acrylic resin and water, then you must remember that you need to work with it at a temperature of at least 10°C and it is not used for treating ceilings.
• Colorless glaze is also applied to a previously cleaned surface of dirt, sawdust, and shavings.
• The protective agent is thoroughly mixed in a container and applied in 2 layers with a brush or roller.
• For the first layer, the temperature requirements are 20°C and a minimum humidity of 65%.
• About an hour after working with the protective agent, the surface of the lining can be covered with fine-grained sandpaper and sanded; this operation will give an excellent final result.
• The next layer is applied to a completely dry surface, that is, at least 3 hours must pass.

• For new surfaces of built baths, a product with a complex of antiseptics and for combined protection of walls is proposed.
• It allows you to immediately obtain a surface with fire protection, with an anti-corrosion coating, treated with an antiseptic, and having dirt- and water-repellent properties.

Before soaking the lining in the steam room, you can also look and find suitable information about the proposed protective equipment, suitable specifically for specific conditions. The bathhouse will be ready for use no earlier than 3 days after treatment with pre-heating. You can take care of the lining coated with a protective agent in a month, when the wood has absorbed this composition.

More from my site

More from my site