Ceiling pass-through unit for a bath

Step by step installation guide

If you do not have enough skills in this area, then it is better to choose a strictly vertical chimney with a pipe cut on the ceiling of the bathhouse. Installation is carried out according to the following algorithm:

The first step is to purchase the materials that will be needed in the process. These include: directly pipes of the correct diameter, clamps, rubber gaskets for waterproofing, expanded clay, umbrella, fire-resistant asbestos;
Before installing the stove, the surface behind it is polished using fire-resistant asbestos;

After installing the stove structure, we proceed to installing the chimney in the bathhouse. To do this, a damper is installed on the stove pipe, which is the primary part of the chimney, equipped with a special valve. It serves to regulate the draft force in the chimney. If the valve is half closed, the flow of passing air will be reduced, and therefore the heat in the bath will remain longer; A drawing of the future hole is made in a predetermined place on the ceiling. Its diameter must exceed the diameter of the chimney. Next, according to the finished drawing, an opening for the pipe is cut out. We strongly recommend that you install a metal box with which the chimney will cut into the ceilings. After the pipe is passed through this unit, it is tightly covered with expanded clay or laid with basalt wool. The part of the ceiling closest to the pipe is cleaned with fire-resistant asbestos; Next, using the same principle as in the case of the ceiling, a hole is cut in the roof. In order to carefully guide the pipe through the rafters, bends are used

It is important to remember safety, so if the material with which the roof is covered is flammable, the outlet location is protected with a metal or asbestos sheet; When the pipe is removed through the roof, it is necessary to attach a thick rubber seal on top of it, which serves as waterproofing for the chimney. The seal is treated with a fire-resistant sealant to completely prevent moisture from getting inside; The chimney components must be installed until you reach the desired height of the structure

After this, a special umbrella, called a “fungus”, is attached to the top of the pipe to protect it from various atmospheric precipitation, debris and tree branches.

Information. The key feature of a well-equipped chimney is that even 7-8 hours after heating the bathhouse, heat remains in the room.

Cutting functions

The main function of cutting is to pass the pipeline through the fence. By fencing we mean the ceiling or the roof itself. The passage must be sealed.

When cutting is carried out correctly, not a single drop of external precipitation enters the room, not to mention the interior space of the room.

Fire safety is a special consideration. The fact is that the flue gases heat the pipe to significant temperatures. Even after passing through all the heat exchangers, the exhaust gases have significant temperatures, which, if the pipe comes into contact with a flammable surface, can serve as a source of fire.

Therefore, the space between the cutting elements and the pipeline is filled with sealant. In most cases, this is basalt-based mineral wool. In addition, the internal cutting elements include a metal apron, which protects the surrounding surface from elevated temperatures.

When cutting is done correctly, not a single drop of precipitation gets into the room.

Exiting the pipe through the roof

When equipping a pipe passage through the roof, care must be taken to ensure that two conditions are met:

passages through the roofing pie must be fireproof;
the under-roof space should be protected as much as possible from moisture penetration.

Exiting the chimney through the ridge makes all the work quite simple. Due to the fact that the formation of snow pockets on the ridge is impossible, it is possible to achieve better protection against leaks. But at the same time, this method of installing a roof passage means that in the design of the rafter system the ridge beam will not have load-bearing functions. And this requires additional strengthening of the rafters themselves. If there is an attic, installing additional rafter supports may be undesirable or simply impossible.

That is why developers prefer installing a chimney passage on the slope, directly at the ridge. A snow pocket also does not form in this place, and besides, the rafter system does not need additional strengthening. But besides this, the choice of location for the roof chimney is also influenced by the location of the heating equipment. It should be remembered that the horizontal sections of the chimney should not be more than 1 meter in length. In some cases, it is the location of the boiler that becomes the reason for choosing the method of passing the chimney pipe through the ridge.

Professionals recommend avoiding installing a passage element in the valley (the point where two slopes meet an internal corner), since it is especially difficult to install a roof passage at this point. As a result of rain and snowfall, the junction may not be able to cope with moisture and, as a result, the roof will leak.

It is important to maintain a distance between the rafters and the roof in the range of 25-30 cm. If the roof is made of combustible materials (various types of roofing felt, soft roofing), then a gap of 13-25 cm must be maintained between the material and the chimney wall. If the material is resistant to high temperatures, then this gap can be left minimal, and the pipe on the roof of the house is removed only from the sheathing

If the material is resistant to high temperatures, then this gap can be left minimal, and the pipe on the roof of the house is removed only from the sheathing.

If the roof is a “pie” consisting of hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation, then when installing the passage element, some difficulties may arise due to the violation of the integrity of this layer. As a result of an error, the protective properties of the roof can be significantly reduced. In this case, the chimney can be installed in a separate box, which will isolate the roofing materials from the hot walls. The distance between the inner wall of the box and the chimney should be about 15 cm, while the free space is filled with non-flammable heat-insulating material. It is recommended to use mineral or basalt wool, as it is resistant to moisture.

The waterproofing and vapor barrier is applied to the box using the standard method: the “pie” is cut in the shape of an envelope. The film sheet is brought to the rafters and cross beams, where they are fixed with nails or staples. Then the waterproofing layer is pressed on top with bars, and the vapor barrier is pressed with the base frame under the finishing materials of the attic or attic. After this, the joints of the films and the box are treated with sealant and glued with a special tape.

Purpose and functions of the chimney

Before we start learning how to build a passage through the ceiling for a chimney, it wouldn’t hurt to get to know the main “hero” for whom, in fact, this work is being carried out. So, you already understand that the chimney is important and necessary. Why? How does it function? Thanks to this miracle pipe, clean air, separated from gases, enters the firebox.

Where do the harmful compounds that appear as a result of burning wood go? They go through the pipe into the sky. Moreover, without any motors, levers, current or intervention of human hands, but in a simple way - under the influence of traction of natural origin. Here is a magical device that seems extremely simple, but to achieve this natural simplicity, you will have to work hard. Ready?

Immutable rules

What are the requirements for the chimney and its passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse?

So, remember this important list:

the most suitable pipe length is 5 meters;
the prefabricated structure should not contain protrusions (the main guideline is the vertical position);
the optimal height above the roof level is up to 1.5 meters (otherwise stretch marks will be required);
the distance between the pipe and the ceilings must be at least 13 cm with cutting the passage and 30 cm without it;
Smoke elements cannot be joined in roof or ceiling structures;
contact of the pipe with communications (plumbing, ventilation, wiring, sewerage) is unacceptable.

This is important to know! To avoid unforeseen situations, inspect the chimney at least once a year. An excess of soot, accumulation of soot at seams and joints can damage the structure.

Work plan

Now that you are familiar with the design and the basic requirements for it, you can learn how to construct a chimney passage through the ceiling.

Learn a step-by-step case study:

Surface cutting and marking.
Box installation.
Sheet installation.
Arrangement (insulation) of the opening.

This, as you understand, is a theory that needs to be put into practice, and that’s what we’ll do.

A number of rules for fastening the passage

To correctly install a metal chimney to a wall, you must follow simple rules:

For a pipe with a tee and a condensate drain in its lower part, it is best to use a special bracket.
When installing sections one into another, the chimney should be secured to the wall using clamps every meter.
It is necessary to ensure that the fastenings do not coincide with the joints of the sections.
When going around the roof overhang, it is necessary to use elbows whose angle is only 30° or 45°.

If the installation of the drainage system has not yet been completed, then you should leave space for laying the gutter using fasteners of a suitable length.

Make it yourself or buy it?

You can make a ceiling assembly at home, and it can be no worse than a ready-made store-bought version. But this will require time, skill and a special tool:

metal scissors;
Bulgarian;
riveter;
manual bender, etc.

In addition, do not forget that you will not only have to watch the video or read the SNiP yourself: you will also need to find time to go to the hardware store. There is no talk yet about the assembly and installation itself. But if you still decide to play “crazy hands”, then especially for you I have prepared step-by-step instructions for assembling the ceiling-passage assembly.

approximate price

For those who do not have time and prefer to spend their weekends with family or friends, I have collected current and inexpensive offers of ceiling units on the market.

Is it possible to make a chimney in a small bathhouse without making holes in the roof?

Hello! I want to make a small steam room, 4-5 squares. I don't want to put holes in the roof. Is it possible to bring the chimney directly into the wall and then up? Oleg

Expert answer

Hello, Oleg!

The chimney you are interested in is called an external (or attached) chimney and is widely used by European and American builders. In Russia, they prefer internal chimneys - they allow you to increase the heat transfer of the stove and correspond to domestic architectural traditions.

To lead the pipe through the wall, special elbows are used, or, in other words, bends with bends at different angles, which allows installation to be carried out in the most convenient way. From the outside, a tee is installed on a horizontal or inclined section, to one branch of which the vertical part is connected, and the second is closed with a plug and subsequently used to clean the channel from soot and carbon deposits. To secure the chimney in a vertical position, special clamp holders are used.

To properly install an attached chimney, we recommend listening to the recommendations of experienced stove makers:

to avoid a drop in draft and also reduce soot formation, the length of the horizontal section should not exceed 1 m;
the upper cut of the pipe must be protected with a cap, which will protect the gas duct from precipitation;
the outer part of the chimney must be insulated - this will prevent the formation of condensation and normalize draft in winter;
the use of round pipes is preferable to rectangular ones, due to the fact that the former create less resistance to the movement of heated gases;
the cross-sectional area of the chimney must correspond to the power of the heating unit;
Where the pipe passes through the wall, it is necessary to install a fireproof cutting. Joints inside cuts are not allowed.

We, in turn, recommend that the horizontal section be arranged under the ceiling. Thus, the hottest part of the chimney will be located inside the room, giving off additional heat. In addition, a water heat exchanger is often installed in this area, with the help of which hot water is obtained.

As you can see, a properly designed external chimney allows you to get the same benefits as an internal one, and at the same time does not require, as you say, “to make holes in the roof”, although it has a slight complication in terms of configuration.

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Proper cutting of the chimney

The cut is an element of the chimney that is performed when the chimney passes through the ceiling or roof.

Proper cutting is the key to long-term functioning of the chimney itself, as well as warmth and dryness inside the room. At the same time, even professionals can make mistakes when choosing and installing cutting. To control the services of a specialist or complete the design yourself, you need to understand some of the nuances.

Traction concept

Do not allow dripping condensation to form in the chimney, which gradually destroys the inner surface of the channel. This especially happens in the cold season, when there is a significant decrease in outside air temperature. The process of moisture droplets falling out in the chimney also causes disruption of normal draft. A decrease in the rate of passage of gases from combustion products occurs not only with the internal formation of condensation; the draft force is affected by the humidity of the outside air, which can have different values depending on the weather. A deflector installed above the chimney will help you ignore this indicator.

Options and features of exterior finishing

The chimney trim on the roof plays a decorative role. To avoid maximum smoke removal and prevent the formation of condensation, the outer part of the pipe must be insulated, and insulating materials require mandatory external protection. The finishing of the chimney pipe should be in harmony with the design of the roof, and it will make the smoke exhaust structure a full-fledged decorative element.

There are a lot of finishing options, the most current ones can be named:

Plaster. This is a simple solution that allows you to protect the pipe from the cold and provide it with a pleasant appearance. At the request of the house owner, mineral chips are added to the plaster mortar, which allows the finished cladding to be given a beautiful relief structure.

Decorative brick. This is another common solution that is widely used in finishing brick buildings. This finishing of the fireplace chimney allows you to maintain the temperature in the chimney; it lasts for a very long time and does not collapse even from very strong heat. Artificial or natural stone

A stone chimney looks very solid and stylish; it attracts attention to the roof and performs its functions perfectly. This is an almost eternal facing material that will make the smoke removal system more reliable.

Finishing the chimney with corrugated sheeting. An interesting option is one in which the smoke exhaust duct is designed in the same way as the roof itself. Finishing a chimney with a metal profile is a fairly strong and durable option; such lining is installed on a metal frame and reliably covers the insulating material.

These are just some of the external cladding options that will help make the chimney beautiful and very noticeable. An ordinary pipe can be turned into a real home decoration.

Finishing the chimney with a metal profile on the outside

Finishing a chimney on the roof with corrugated sheeting is one of the simplest options; even a novice home craftsman can handle such work. A galvanized sheet equipped with an anti-corrosion coating will be a strong and durable solution: it does not burn, does not collapse under the influence of high temperature or strong vibrations, and installation of such cladding does not take much time. However, this is a cold material, so the chimney will have to be insulated.

Finishing the chimney with a metal profile is carried out after the construction of the metal frame. Metal sheets are installed overlapping on it to ensure the strongest possible connection. To ensure that the sheets are positioned evenly, a building level is used when attaching them.

The metal profile is attached with self-tapping screws; this work is more convenient to carry out using a screwdriver. Between the metal sheet and the smoke exhaust pipe there is a layer of non-combustible insulation.

Finishing the chimney inside the building

A fireplace or stove is usually installed in a living room or study, so it becomes necessary to conduct smoke exhaust ducts through the second floor and the attic or attic room. The decoration of the chimney inside the house can be very diverse in appearance, but in any case it is installed on a common basis. The interior finishing of the chimney is carried out as follows:

To line the chimney, a metal profile frame is built around it, which is sheathed with special plasterboard sheets. They must be fire-resistant, this will ensure the fire safety of the house. Such sheets are designated by the special abbreviation GKLO.
The frame is insulated: a layer of mineral wool or other non-combustible insulating materials is laid around the chimney.
Smooth plasterboard sheets are finished with any selected materials: it can be ordinary wallpaper, ceramic tiles, plaster and much more. This decoration of the fireplace chimney allows it to be harmoniously integrated into the space of the room, and the choice of material depends on the style of interior design.

The interior decoration of chimney ducts can have a wide variety of colors, so it can be chosen to suit every taste. However, in any case, it is recommended to choose non-combustible materials so as not to increase the risk of fire

This is especially important in a wooden house: walls located near the chimney, and especially all bending areas, must be treated with fire retardants

External and internal finishing of the chimney will allow you to turn it into a full-fledged decorative element: the choice of materials depends on the design features of the building and the financial capabilities of the owner. Self-installation of the cladding will allow you to save a lot, but it must be carried out in strict compliance with all technological requirements.

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Metal knot

Today, sandwich type pipes are widely used. Essentially, these are two metal cylinders of different diameters inserted into one another.

But how to do everything? The work will be carried out as follows:

First, you need to purchase a ready-made metal feedthrough, which is otherwise called a box due to the characteristic shape of the cube. It can also be made independently from galvanized iron, taking into account the diameter of the pipe and the thickness of the ceiling material. In this case, the diameter of the hole should be slightly smaller than the size of the chimney of the ceiling-passage unit.
The next step is to prepare the pipe for installation. Due to the thinness of the metal, it is not able to isolate the heating chimney from combustible material. For this you can use basalt fiber with a foil surface. It is glued to the inner walls of the box, as well as to those parts that will come into contact with the ceiling.
A place is marked on the ceiling, which is subsequently cut out with a jigsaw.
Now you can install the box.
A special metal panel (often made of stainless steel) with a hole cut in the middle should be fixed to the ceiling, and its diameter should correspond to the size of the circle in the box.
At the final stage of arranging the ceiling-passage assembly, you should arrange a chimney on the floor of the second floor (if it is a house) or attic (whether it is a one-story house or a bathhouse). This is done using the same panel or metal sheet with a hole cut out in the middle.
The location of the pipe must be calculated in such a way that the junction of its two parts does not fall on the internal cavity of the box, which is already located in the ceiling. It should be lower or higher.

As previously noted, instead of basalt fiber it is better to use other materials - sand (although also not the best option), clay, expanded clay.

The material will not only serve as insulation, but will also be a good heat insulator.

Practical lessons on how to properly make a ceiling cut for a chimney

And now about each action in detail.

Some pioneers in bathhouse construction are wondering: how to determine the location of the pipe? To avoid further frustration, remember: this location is determined at the stage of drawing up the steam room design.

When marking, it is important to determine the vertical axis of the pipe. The beginning of the layout is the outlet pipe coming from the stove. The axis starting from this structural element, resting on the ceiling, is the center of the skylight that you have to make. If the steam room has an attic, then the axis extends all the way to the roof.

And don’t forget about the rule: the distance from the chimney to the ceiling is at least 13 cm.

Worth paying attention! Before installation, structural elements (pipes, adapters, bends, etc.) must be prepared. Remove the film, stickers, price tags (which many people forget to do) and degrease the surface of the parts.

What dimensions should the ceiling trim for the chimney have? Many people think that these parameters depend on the materials from which the chimney is made. This is not so, the only important thing is that the structure does not touch the ceiling, but is not too far from it, since the hole will be difficult to repair, and besides, the heat that is so necessary in the steam room may subsequently evaporate through it.

You probably already remember about the gap of 13 cm, now understand one more indicator - the thickness of the insulating sandwich should not exceed 5 cm. Are you afraid that the insulation will slip out and fall down? Don't worry, the iron sheet that you attach below will serve as insurance against such situations.

This is important to know! When buying iron sheets, keep in mind that galvanized material is not very suitable for a bathhouse, because heated zinc is a source of harmful substances formed after the decomposition of the substance.

Many people confuse the purpose of the insulating layer, thinking that it is done for beauty, to make it cozy inside. Not only that, its main mission is to protect the steam room from fire and cold. The ideal materials are fiberglass, asbestos, mineral or basalt wool.

However, insulating the hole is not enough; you need to additionally create a heat-reflecting screen around the chimney, which we already briefly mentioned above. A piece of polished stainless steel, ideally with a mirror coating, will do an excellent job as a screen. Creating the greatest possible reflective effect for infrared waves is your goal when installing an iron surface.

To reduce the opening, a ceiling-passage assembly is constructed, providing a kind of air gap, which serves as additional insurance against heat leakage from the steam room.

Construction assembly details

A galvanized box with parameters 40x40 cm is installed from the attic side. And from the inside of the bathhouse, an iron sheet is attached to it, the dimensions reaching 50x50 cm. The pipe at the lining is covered with a clamp in order to avoid stress on the stove. And only after that, insulation is placed into the hollow part of the body - usually the surface is covered with insulation and covered with expanded clay. Then you can install the final fragment - part of the pipe going through the roof to the street.

Worth paying attention! In order for the chimney to serve for a long time, the joints of the clamps should be sealed, and parts of the structure susceptible to corrosion should be coated with heat-resistant paint.

Ceiling cutting for the chimney is a troublesome, but necessary stage of the bathhouse construction work.

Device for passing a round pipe through the ceiling of a bathhouse with different types of polyurethane foam

The most convenient option for installing a chimney for a wooden bath is a ready-made factory-made polyurethane foam for the chimney, taking into account the diameter of the pipe. Before installing the unit, time is devoted to preparing the surfaces in contact with the wood finish of the ceiling, as well as the inside of the box surface, which needs proper thermal insulation.

When it is necessary to install factory-type polyurethane foam, before starting work, it is covered with a heat insulator on all sides except the front. The optimal solution is practical and environmentally friendly basalt wool with increased resistance to high temperatures. This heat insulator contains binders that can withstand temperatures up to 1000 degrees. An additional advantage will be the insulation of the pipe with foiled wool to improve the safety of the structure during operation.

As soon as the ceiling passage of the chimney is correctly and reliably insulated, we begin to prepare the site for installation:

To do this, markings are made on the surface of the ceiling - at the location of the chimney.
The contours of the hole should be slightly inferior to the parameters of the front panel of the assembly so that there are no difficulties with fixing it to the casing with self-tapping screws.
A hole is cut along the contours, the edges are insulated with the same insulator that was used to protect the pass-through assembly.
To increase the level of safety, sheets of thin but durable metal are additionally used.
A ceiling-passage assembly for the bathhouse is installed in the prepared hole; for convenience, it is initially placed on the pipe, after which the structure is secured in full assembly.

The finished passage with the pipe is secured with self-tapping screws using pre-prepared holes.

Factors influencing chimney cutting

The shape of the chimney cut is primarily influenced by the type of roof: flat or pitched. A flat roof does not accept the techniques inherent in a pitched roof. Typically, cutting on a flat roof is made of concrete, while materials for cutting a pitched roof vary, but most often it is made of metal.

The shape of the chimney is of particular importance, since the shape of the passage opening depends on it. The round shape is better for the chimney itself, but if we talk about passage holes, then it is much easier to make a rectangular chimney. For a round cross-section you will have to make the correct cut in the roofing pie; for a rectangular chimney this is much easier to do.

The choice of installation technology is also influenced by the presence of cladding and the shape of the roofing. The lining makes cutting much more difficult. The fact is that the cladding can allow moisture to penetrate inside the roofing pie, which is unacceptable. Therefore, it would be logical to make the groove wider using cladding, but the groove itself also needs to be hidden somehow. Therefore, structures under cladding remain the domain of professionals. You need to have too many specific skills to do everything unnoticed and really beautiful.

If we talk about the type of coating, then it is better to use corrugated sheets for cutting. Other types are associated with certain difficulties. You have to calculate the coverage. Since the apron is supposed to be tucked under the finishing roof covering element, and because of this, some types may sit on the roof at an angle or become bristling, which makes the coating leaky.

Features of the passage for a brick chimney

Among materials that can maintain temperature for a long time, maintaining a comfortable indoor microclimate, brick rightly occupies one of the leading positions

When it is necessary to properly equip a pipe passage for a brick kiln, the main thing you should focus on is the installation of a special penetration to thicken the chimney wall in the area of contact with the ceiling

If it is not possible to make a penetration, then a hole with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the chimney is prepared in the surface of the ceiling base, then following the previously described algorithm for drilling a round stove through the ceiling:

arrange protection for the edge from metal strips or mineralite;
sheathe the entrance from the living space with a metal sheet;
fill voids in the attic or second floor area with heat-insulating, high-temperature resistant material;
mask the cutting from the attic or second floor with a metal sheet.

With such a passage arrangement, you can be sure that the brick pipe is reliably insulated and has retained its aesthetic component.

The correct ceiling cut for the chimney

The times when the stove in the bathhouse was heated black are long gone.

A chimney now rises proudly above each steam room, like a spire. But this component of the design, however, is something to be proud of - thanks to the pipe, the room quickly warms up, and vacationers in it are protected from smoke, soot and suffocation. The ceiling trim for the chimney, which is the fire insurance of the building and the custodian of your property, requires special attention. Let's talk about her.

Construction of a crossing over the ceiling

Let's look at how to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling. This can be done in two ways.

Use ready-made cuts;
Install the pass-through unit with your own hands.

Application of ready cuts

In order to fully protect the roof elements from the effects of high temperatures that arise when combustion products pass through the chimney, and at the same time secure the pipe in the required position, the so-called ceiling cutting is used.

To construct a chimney passage through the ceiling, you need to purchase a chimney passage through the ceiling at a hardware store. It is a box made of mineralite or metal connected to a stainless steel plate. There is a hole in the center of the structure into which the sandwich is placed. Such a device also performs, among other things, a decorative function. A plate attached to it covers the ceiling hole, giving it a more aesthetic appearance. In addition, insulation rests on this plate, which fills the space between the ceiling elements and the pipe.

They come in two types:

- with insulation, looking like two plates combined with an insulated pipe;

- without insulation, which is a box made of metal, which must be filled with insulating materials with your own hands and a hole intended for installing pipes.

Cuttings come in different forms. Sometimes they look like a metal cylinder, in which case the plate is significantly larger than it. If such a device is used, and the ceiling hole is square in shape, then it is still necessary to comply with all the listed parameters required to ensure the fire safety of the structure. At the same time, it is necessary to strengthen the protection of wooden bath structures using metal strips.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=OloeKgcB2Yo

Installation of a ready-made adapter

Cut a hole in the ceiling, taking into account the overall dimensions of the cut;
If necessary, carry out insulation;
Install the chimney passage unit into the ceiling;
Bring the pipe to the ceiling, and its length should be 100-150 mm less than the height;
Connect the section of pipe located on top of the roof;
Seal all joints that occurred during the passage of the chimney through the wooden ceiling.

Installation of an adapter made by hand

It is possible to carry out a chimney through the ceiling in a bathhouse without factory components.

Let's look at how to make a ceiling passage unit with your own hands. To do this you will need:

- chimney pipe;

- material chosen for thermal insulation of the pipe passage through the bathhouse ceiling;

- metal plates.

The pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof is installed following the recommendations described below.

Cut a hole in the ceiling that is 13-18 mm larger than the size of the pipe;
One edge of the pipe is inserted into the hole made;
From inside the room, a plate is placed on the ceiling;
The chimney passage through the ceiling is insulated. It is optimal to make thermal insulation for the ceiling passage unit from mineralite.
The space remaining between the ceiling and the plate must also be filled with a layer of insulation.
The plate is attached using self-tapping screws.

When considering how to install a pipe in a bathhouse through the ceiling, be sure to pay attention to such an important factor as choosing a suitable location for the passage of the ceiling for the chimney. The main function of the adapter is fire protection

The main function of the adapter is fire protection

It can be installed either directly on the ridge, providing good traction and no accumulation of sediment; or next to the ridge.

Cutting a chimney installed by yourself will require a little more time than purchased in a store, but will help save money, which is so necessary during construction.

When installing a chimney in a ceiling-roof slab, craftsmen are often faced with such a difficulty as the need to make a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling strictly vertically, placing it in the center of the passage. To do this, we can recommend using a plumb line. It is lifted up and lowered into the center of the chimney. This point is marked on the ceiling and used as an appropriate mark before making a pipe passage through the ceiling of the bathhouse.

How to insulate a pipe from the ceiling

Now this is an interesting question. One of the videos says that the maximum temperature to which the chimney duct can, but should not, be heated is 700 degrees. And since most make metal pipes, according to the rules, first there is a mono pipe, then, closer to the ceiling, it turns into a sandwich. That is, in the steam room we will have an unprotected monopipe - a thin layer of metal separating it from hot gases. And this is powerful and hard IR radiation.

We can consider the problem of insulating a pipe in a bathhouse from the ceiling in two ways - both down and up. down is not so much insulation as a device that takes away heat, which literally “flies into the chimney.”

There are two options here - you can hang a heat exchanger on the pipe, which will heat the water. Or you can hang a mesh with stones , which will absorb heat and retain it longer than metal.

If we consider such devices as insulation in particular, then they will perform their function - their temperature will be significantly lower - water heats up to 100 degrees, stones can hold a higher temperature, but lower than that of the gases in the pipe.

As for the pipe above the ceiling, that is, passing through the under-roof space and the roof, then more care needs to be taken specifically about insulation.

ADVICE! Do not neglect fire-prevention impregnations for wood; they are quite appropriate in the attic of a bathhouse and can protect it from fire.

insulate a pipe above the ceiling with a calcium silicate box with an air gap between the pipe and the box for better cooling of the former.

The second option is to use supersilica. It is a ceramic fiber that can be purchased in sheet or mat form. The pipe wrapped with it will become simply warm to the touch. In addition to the pipe, supersilica can be used to protect all flammable surfaces in the immediate vicinity of the chimney.

It even occurred to us that ceramic fiber is much better than ordinary sandwich stuffing, which loses its insulating properties when condensation forms inside, and over time settles and turns into dust (losing binders). And the most unpleasant thing is that the sandwich tends to burn out if it is fired incorrectly frequently, which makes such a pipe dangerous.

In other words, you can either try not to take a sandwich at all, but limit yourself to supersilica insulation, or replace the mineral wool inside the sandwich with this material.

Types of ceiling penetrations

When crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to protect the “pie” materials from heat, and also somehow fix the pipe in a certain position. This task is accomplished by a ceiling cutout or, as it is also called, a “passage unit.”

The pass-through units are industrially manufactured. They are a box made of metal or mineralite, to which a stainless or galvanized steel plate is attached on one side. A hole is made in the middle of this assembly into which a sandwich is inserted. The plate on the side of the room closes the hole in the ceiling, decorating it. It also serves as a support for the heat insulator, which is used to fill the gap between the pipe and the floor beams for better thermal insulation.

This is a mineralite ceiling penetration. View from the attic

There is no disagreement regarding what material to use for the penetrations in the bathhouse: only stainless steel. The fact is that at temperatures that are typical for steam rooms, galvanization releases far from the most useful substances. Therefore, there is only one option: stainless steel.

Everything is installed simply. If the ceiling was made without taking into account the passage of the pipe, a square hole is cut in the right place (between the beams), which is 1-2 cm smaller than the size of the decorative panel. Beams and boards are covered with a layer of thermal insulation. If available, you can nail down strips of mineralite, basalt or asbestos cement cardboard (asbestos is harmful, so use it only as a last resort), just a strip of stone wool insulation. In some cases, padding of the insulation with metal strips is required (when it is needed, see below).

You can't do that - you had to cut a square hole. And the lining on the ceiling near the pipe is already charred...

When installing a pipe on a stove, the device is placed on a straight section that will cross the ceiling. The passage unit simply rises to the desired level. A strip of thermal insulation is placed under its edges that touch the ceiling boards, then everything is fixed with self-tapping screws. In many units, manufacturers even make perforations for self-tapping screws, so even this is not a problem.

The configuration of these products varies. Sometimes a metal cylinder is made around the hole for the pipe. The edges of the decorative plate protrude significantly beyond this cylinder. When installing a pass-through unit of this type, the hole is still cut in a square shape. A circle is also possible, but from the pipe to its edge there must be a distance of at least 130 mm if the pipe is insulated, and 250 mm if it is without insulation

With this option, please note: the size of the plate should be sufficient to mask the hole. In addition, with this form of passage through the ceiling, it is imperative to protect the wood of the ceiling not only with heat insulators, but also to cover it with strips of metal

Pass-through units through the ceiling come in different configurations

There are passage units in which there is no cylinder around the pipe, but there are outer sides around the perimeter. They are made of metal, and can also be made of mineralite. If the sides are made of metal, the edges of the cutout in the ceiling must be lined with a heat insulator (for example, basalt cardboard or the same mineralite). If the sides are made of mineralite, then they themselves are a good heat insulator. So additional thermal insulation of the edges of the cutout is not necessary (but you can play it safe).

Do-it-yourself installation of polyurethane foam

The hole should be approximately 0.5 mm larger than the thickness of the channel diameter. This will ensure ease of insertion. Thermal insulation is packed along the outer and inner walls. The distance between them is 1-2 cm.

If you do not have a ready-made kit, you can perform high-quality stove heating in your home without it. To do this, the free space in the ceiling is sealed with fire-resistant thermal insulation, on top of which steel strips are installed. A plate made of heat-resistant metals is installed on it, in which a suitable hole is cut. This plate is secured with a bolted connection. It is most convenient to make it from metal.

When installing it, we comply with all requirements and maintain the established distances to fire hazardous objects. The resulting voids on the side of the second floor or attic should be filled with expanded clay or other non-flammable insulation.

Passage of a brick chimney through a wooden ceiling

Laying out a stove chimney is a complex process where many nuances must be observed. Therefore, it is better to entrust this matter to specialists. In addition, errors during construction can lead to poor draft and fire.

An important point: simple building bricks are not suitable for laying individual parts and the entire chimney. A prerequisite for long-lasting and trouble-free operation of a brick pipe is the use of a ceramic heat-resistant type of brick.

When building structures, it is necessary to lay them out in a special way in the places where the floors pass. The ideal option would be to cut the chimney on the ceiling. The height of this section of the masonry must be at least three rows of bricks. The thickness of the chimney walls when passing through the roof or wall (partition) should be greater than along the main height. The distance to flammable materials must be at least 25 cm.

Two passages of a brick chimney are possible. In the first option, the passage unit is mounted by increasing the thickness of the masonry, the so-called “fluff”. The second option for passing a brick pipe through the attic floor without laying out the “fluff” is carried out in almost the same way as for a metal pipe. In this case, the chimney along its entire height has the same cross-sectional size, without increasing the thickness of the walls.

The hole in the ceiling is secured with a stainless steel sheet or mineralite slab. A window is cut out in the center of the sheet through which the chimney will pass. The length and width of this opening should exceed the similar parameters of the pipe by literally 3–5 mm. When laying a chimney, approximately three or four rows up to the ceiling, a sheet with a prepared opening is placed on it, and then the laying is carried out further up to the height of the finished attic floor. Wooden floors are laid with mineral wool to reduce heat transfer from the pipe. But a more reliable way would be a stainless steel box into which a brick chimney will pass; the distance from the pipe to the walls is also laid with mineral or kaolin wool at 5-7 cm.

Sealing joints

This stage is considered the most difficult when removing through the roof. To do this, install a lower apron made of tin.

A “tie” made of metal is placed under it, the purpose of which is to drain liquid into the drain. Outside, you can install a decorative apron, the purpose of which is to create an aesthetic appearance.

When using a flexible coating, the task of waterproofing is greatly simplified. It is quite easy to bend such material onto a pipe that has been pre-coated with impregnation to create a better fit. It is also recommended to treat the joints of the wall and roof with sealant.

Video tip - assembly of a chimney pipe passing through a wooden ceiling

From the following video you can learn how to properly lay the structure without spending extra effort.

Pipe passage through a chimney without a factory passage unit

It is possible to remove the chimney without a passage device. In this case, the edges of the hole in the ceiling are also sealed with a fire-resistant heat insulator, and metal strips are placed on top of it. A protective plate made of non-flammable material is put on the sandwich coming from the oven, in which a hole of a suitable diameter is cut, and holes are drilled along the edges for fasteners. Traditionally this is a sheet of metal. Next, the sandwich is passed into a hole in the ceiling and fixed there using some non-flammable guides. For example, you can use drywall profiles or something similar. The main thing is to securely fasten the pipe and observe the basic rule of fire safety: there must be a distance of at least 36 cm from the edge of the pipe to the flammable material.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Important! When installing and securing the chimney, keep in mind that the pipe changes its size due to thermal expansion. It must be secured so that it can move relative to the roof. Then from below (from the ceiling) the pipe is hemmed with non-flammable material

From the attic or second floor side, the voids formed in the groove are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are still the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budget-friendly. Actually, this completes the exit of the chimney pipe through the ceiling

Then the pipe is lined with non-flammable material from below (from the ceiling). From the attic or second floor side, the voids formed in the groove are filled with a heat insulator. The requirements for it are still the same: tolerance to high temperatures. Expanded clay may be the most budget-friendly. Actually, this completes the exit of the chimney pipe through the ceiling.

You can make a passage through the ceiling with your own hands

Basic provisions

The wiring of the chimney structure through the ceiling and roof must be carried out taking into account all fire safety standards and regulations described in SNiP 2.04.05–91. For a pipe in a private house or bathhouse, a necessary condition is the installation of a special passage unit. Let's consider the main provisions specified in the Rules:

the distance from the surface of a brick or concrete pipe to rafters made of flammable materials must be at least 13 cm.
the distance from a ceramic pipe (without thermal insulation) to combustible rafters should be at least 25 cm, and from similar pipes with thermal insulation - 13 cm.

Note! The above provisions must be taken into account when installing beams. Their pitch, as a rule, is approximately 60 cm. To obtain the required distance from the chimney structure to the ceiling with such pitch parameters, it is necessary to use insulated pipes. Special sandwich pipes, which consist of several layers, including insulating material, are excellent for such purposes.

The cross-sectional area of the furnace outlet pipe is usually 115–120 mm. If the sandwich pipe has an insulating material 100 mm thick, the outer diameter will be 315–320 mm and the distance will be 13 cm.

The chimney must be equipped with insulation made of non-combustible material of a certain thickness; ready-made sandwich-type pipes meet similar requirements.

For baths, pipes with an insulation thickness of 100 mm are relevant. If necessary, you can use 50 mm insulation for a bathhouse, but this is not recommended by experts. The most common pipes on the construction market are sandwiches, which have an insulation thickness of 35 to 50 mm. You can find a product with a ten-centimeter layer of thermal insulation material in a specialized store that sells bath equipment.

A chimney that is not equipped with insulation must have a distance of at least 250 mm from combustible ceiling materials.

Node installation

Having prepared the window in the ceiling, you can begin installing the ceiling-passage assembly.

A metal or mineralite box is installed in the cut opening. The structure is fixed using purchased or standard fasteners (bolts, self-tapping screws), which are screwed directly to the ceiling.

After the ceiling-passage assembly has been installed, it is necessary to install the chimney pipe, first putting it on the stove, then leading it through the box into the attic, and from there through the outer layer of the roofing pie (a hole is also pre-cut in it). After the chimney pipe is removed, it is insulated with a selected non-combustible material (you can put a layer of expanded clay on top of the box).
Another important final stage of work is protecting the structure from moisture. Since when the pipe passes through the roofing pie there is a gap between it and the materials, water will flow into the attic through it. To waterproof the joint, it is recommended to use various finished products - the so-called. ties and aprons, which are selected according to the diameter and geometry of the chimney and are installed using simple fasteners. For a round chimney, you can purchase special ready-made penetrations with a flexible sleeve, choosing a product to match the color of the roof and other parameters. They can be installed using self-tapping screws or glued using special adhesives. It is also recommended to use additional liquid and paste sealants to seal the edges of the protective elements. If waterproofing is carried out correctly, the area where the chimney passes through the roofing pie will always be protected from rain and snow.

Preparation and installation of penetration

The method of installation and insulation of the penetration depends on the specific type of construction of the unit, as well as the width and material of the chimney pipe.

Preparatory work for installation of the unit may include:

cutting a square hole in the ceiling of a bathhouse or house, if it was designed without taking into account the installation of stove equipment and a chimney;
thermal insulation of beams, rafters and other roof elements using non-combustible materials

Attention! If the ceiling and rafter system in the bathhouse are made of wood, you can cover the section of the structure with special fire-retardant compounds that prevent fire and the spread of flame. Minerite, basalt wool, and asbestos-cement cardboard can be used as insulating materials.

Some experts also recommend checking the load-bearing capacity of the ceiling in the area where the chimney pipe is supposed to pass. If the strength of the structure is in doubt, then it is better to additionally build a frame from wooden beams, making a square window from lumber corresponding to the area of the existing unit. The frame cross members must be firmly fixed to the beams of the rafter system. It is also advisable to treat the finished frame with a fire retardant.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with: Heat-shrinkable sleeves for protecting the seams of PPU insulation pipes

Tips for choosing thermal insulation material

When choosing thermal insulation, price often plays not the first role, because safety is more expensive, and without insulation it cannot be achieved.

Until now, in private housing construction they like to use mineral wool to insulate chimneys, but this is not a completely suitable material. At high temperatures, it changes its structure, although it remains the same in appearance. This metamorphosis negatively affects the thermal insulation functions.

It is better to use basalt wool, which is capable of operating at temperatures from 800 to 1000 °C. Minerite, asbestos or basalt cardboard are no less safe. There are economical old-fashioned methods: insulation with sand or expanded clay, which is used for backfilling. The third old-fashioned method is to coat the box with a 2 cm layer of clay.

What is it used for?

PPU is designed for pipe passage through wall and ceiling ceilings; it is a round or square box with a hole. The main task is to ensure the protection of wooden floors from overheating, since during operation the temperature of the external contour of the chimney increases and heats objects in the immediate vicinity.

Such a device can be purchased in specialized stores or assembled with your own hands. When choosing a finished product, it is necessary to take into account the diameter of the chimney, as well as the location of the stove and ceilings.

For thermal insulation of the unit, basalt cotton wool rolls with a foil screen, which can be used at high temperatures, are perfect.