How to assemble a door frame with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Professional builders know that installing interior doors requires more careful compliance with all the requirements of the instructions for their installation than when installing an entrance door, where various mistakes can be hidden under the slopes. You won't be able to pull off this trick on interior doors. The slightest errors in calculations, both when taking the parameters of the opening and block, and when cutting down risers and crossbars, inevitably lead to a negative result, which, in most cases, cannot be corrected.

To prevent such a situation, we will analyze in detail how to assemble the door frame of an interior door at home, and then install it in the doorway. There is nothing complicated here. All you need is patience and attentiveness.

Door frame components

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the structure of the interior door frame:

hinge beam - this is the part on which the hinges are cut and the door is hung
the false beam is the part that meets the door. The counter part of the lock crashes into it.
lintel - upper “ceiling” beam
threshold - lower part

Thus, in order to assemble the door frame, you need to correctly connect all its parts. But before you start, you need to decide on the dimensions and choose the appropriate material. Doors should look aesthetically pleasing and be easy to clean.

Preparatory activities

Before you begin installing the door frame yourself, you need to prepare all the necessary materials and tools. Depending on the type and configuration of the product, their list may differ slightly, but you should definitely have on hand:

Pencil;
Corner;
Roulette;
Plumb;
Level;
Wooden wedges;
Spacers;
Additional bars;
Screwdriver and screwdriver;
Hammer;
Bulgarian;
Self-tapping screws, screws, nails;
Hacksaw (saw), jigsaw;
Miter box;
Chisel;
Construction foam.

Before installing the box, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the wall of the doorway itself. The old door structure is being dismantled. After this, it is necessary to carefully seal all the cracks, remove irregularities, and adjust the size of the opening to fit the new box.

Significant protrusions are cut off using a grinder, recesses and cracks are sealed with plaster mixture. In order to carry out installation without any particular difficulties, it is recommended to select the parameters of the door structure after preparing the opening in the wall.

Choosing material

I don’t have a definite answer here, since the choice depends on your preferences and budget. I will give examples of the most common materials used for door frames.

MDF doors

MDF is a wood fiber board. The doors are cheap, but they look good. The advantages include lightness and environmental friendliness. The disadvantages are reduced impact resistance, poor noise insulation and short service life.

Laminated solid wood

Glued board or "euro-timber".

These doors are not made of solid wood, but of parts glued together under high pressure. The joints on them are practically invisible. The doors are quite durable and cost a little more than MDF. Price and quality are acceptable.

Solid wooden doors

Doors are much more expensive than glued ones. Strong and durable. The disadvantage is incorrect processing by the manufacturer, as a result of which the wood is excessively saturated with moisture.

Doors made of chipboard and fibreboard

Wood-fiber or wood-pressed boards. These doors are very cheap as they are made from leftover material. The advantage of these doors is good mechanical strength and fairly good sound and sound insulation. The disadvantage is low moisture resistance, as well as the presence of a volatile substance in the glue, which has a detrimental effect on health. Another aspect is the complexity of installation, since the screws in such doors do not hold well.

In addition to those described, there are also plastic, glass, aluminum, and veneered ones. Doors with honeycomb filling, laminated, etc.

The choice of material is up to you, but it should be appropriate and practical.

Types of door frames

In order to correctly install the door frame in the wall opening, it is first recommended to study the design of the product.

The frame is a load-bearing element of the door structure, which takes on the load of the door leaf. It consists of one horizontal and two vertical strips connected to each other. The box is fastened directly to the walls of the entrance or interior opening.

The load-bearing element of the door forms a flat portal and also ensures reliable fastening of the door itself. On one side of the box frame there are hinges on which the canvas is hung, on the other side there is a hole for the locking mechanism and a strike plate is attached.

The position of the door primarily depends on the correct installation of the load-bearing component (frame). Therefore, this particular stage of work is a priority. Even a slight misalignment will cause the door to close poorly, get scuffed and wear out quickly. It is also important to pay special attention to the strength of the frame, taking into account the weight of the material from which the canvas is made.

Door frames offered on the market are classified according to different indicators. One of them is the technology of assembling the structure: straight, diagonal or tongue-and-groove. Installation of an interior door frame into a doorway is carried out only after preliminary assembly of the structure.

In the first case, the elements of the door frame are connected to each other perpendicularly. In the second, the edges of the planks are cut at 45 degrees. In both cases, screws are used to connect them. The most reliable way to connect a structure is a tenon into a groove, which is cut directly into the plank.

Boxes can also be divided into different types based on the material used. For their production, steel, wood, plastic and MDF panels are used. Today, metal structures are most often installed at the entrance to apartments and private houses. They are the most durable, reliable and durable. Wooden doors are installed in interior openings, and plastic doors are installed on balconies.

Proper sizing is the key to success!

The standard sizes of door leaves are

height 2000 mm
width 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm

All other sizes that go beyond the scope are usually custom-made items. (I mean single canvases, not swing ones)

You need to add 70 mm to the size of the door leaf - this is the standard width of the door frame. If the dimensions of the door frame are different, then the size will naturally change up or down. And we also add 6 mm - this is the technological gap between the leaf and the door frame.

Now you need to check how the door frame fits into the doorway. If it needs to be expanded, then we are not in a hurry to break everything at once. We soberly assess the situation - we may have to strengthen the opening with lintels. If you need to reduce the opening, then we fill it with bricks, or “sew on” bars - it all depends on the situation.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
To help you understand what size doorway is needed, look at the formula:
Door leaf size + door frame size + 6 mm tech. gap + 60 mm (30 mm on each side for mounting foam and wedges that will be needed when installing the box)

Usually the dimensions of doorways are controlled at the construction stage, but in older private houses (like mine) there are “hard” discrepancies.

The next important dimension is the gap from the floor to the door leaf. Before calculating it, you need to check the level of the floors for the width of the door “swing”.

You can do this in two ways:

Using a hydraulic level

On the side walls of the opening we place marks at the same level. We measure the distance from each mark to the floor plane. The difference that you get when measuring should be added to the minimum height of the posts so that when opening the door does not rest on the floor. If you still “miss” this moment, then you can eliminate it only by trimming the door leaf, and this is still a “handjob” :(

2. Using a laser level

If you are the happy owner of a laser level, then everything becomes much simpler. We set the level and, using a construction square, determine the curvature of the floors. The obtained values are taken into account when setting sizes.

The minimum gap is 10 - 15 mm, depending on what kind of floor covering is planned. But it is better to immediately lay linoleum, or carpet, or laminate, and then carry out the installation.

See the table of correspondence between door blocks and openings.

And here is another table of typical door frame sizes

Dimensions and equipment

Depending on the opening method, doors can be folding, sliding or swinging. The latter are the most popular because they are structurally simplest and fairly easy to install. They are presented in a large number of modifications. According to the opening method, the following are distinguished:

double-leaf and single-leaf;
left- and right-sided.

The most common sizes of interior doors are 710, 810, 910 and 1010 mm. Double doors - 1340, 1540 and 1840 mm. The standard height of a doorway is 2055-2060 mm, but in fact it may differ upward.

The basic materials you will need are a door leaf, frame and trim.

The fittings include hinges, a handle, a rotary lock and a built-in locking mechanism. If the opening is deep (in a load-bearing wall), then additional additions may be required.

Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Let's look at assembling a door frame with your own hands using an MDF frame as an example. We will connect the upper parts at 45°, as this is the most aesthetic way.

1.First of all, you need to trim the parts of the box. This is done in order to eliminate irregularities or manufacturing defects.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If you have to use hand tools, it is better to use a fine-toothed saw or a hacksaw. Start making cuts from the veneer side so that chips, if any, remain on the invisible side.

2. We “saw” the loop beam and the vestibule at 45°. It is best to do this with a miter saw, but if you don’t have one, you will have to work with a miter box. To avoid unevenness when cutting, the miter box must be secured. We use a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

3. Next we move on to the most difficult part - “sawing” the top of the box - the lintel. You need to clearly set the size and not miss the corners. You can use a tape measure, but there is an easier way. To do this, we apply the lintel to the top of the door and mark the marks “in place” with a sharp pencil. To maintain the technological gap, you can use packaging cardboard - its width is just 3 mm.

4. Mark the height of the loop and false beams. I told you how to find out the required height a little higher. This is the height of the door leaf + the top gap of 3 mm + the bottom gap. If the floors are level, then 10 mm is enough. When opening, the door leaf should not catch or rest against the floor. You should not create a very high gap - 10 - 15 mm is enough for normal air circulation. If the room is damp, then larger values are allowed.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If there is a difference where the doors are installed and there is no way to correct it, then the height of the racks may be different. The highest point of the difference is taken as zero.

Next, we cut off the racks according to the marks.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
We constantly and meticulously check all the applied dimensions before washing down. If the box turns out to be smaller than the canvas, you will have to buy a new beam.

5. After all the components have been sawed down, we assemble the MDF door frame together, having previously drilled holes with a drill of a smaller diameter to prevent the frame from splitting. For connection we use 50 cm wood screws. It is more convenient to carry out work on the floor, placing cardboard or other material under the box.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
When you tighten the door frame, press its parts as tightly as possible, since the screws will stretch them.

Well, this is approximately the result you should get.

What else is important to know?

Not every person will be able to install a door frame efficiently the first time. But don't despair. Because many flaws can be eliminated.

If there is an unsightly seam, you can close the joint between the laminate and the door frame with a plinth or a special flexible threshold.
If the box does not fit into the opening, then the posts and crossbars can be trimmed a little.
Platbands allow you to beautifully seal the gap between the door frame and the wall. If their width is not enough, you will have to plaster and decorate the gap.
To install an interior door frame in a concrete or brick wall, it is impossible to do without a hammer drill. If you are installing an MDF door frame first on slats, use a drill to make holes and only then use a hammer drill.
Attaching a door frame to a wooden wall is much easier than to other materials. In this case, a hammer drill for drilling holes is not useful. You just need to screw the door frame to the wall using anchors. The main thing to consider is that over time, wooden buildings can shrink significantly.
To facilitate the installation process, special installation systems for door frames were created. Thanks to them, the structure can be placed in walls made of any material without using wedges and spacers. This kit includes hidden mounting fasteners, detailed step-by-step instructions and diagrams. Using the system, even a beginner can insert a door frame.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold

The easiest way to assemble. The fact is that the threshold is usually mounted at 90°.

The threshold is mounted on the entrance or “entrance” doors, separating the cold room from the living room. In addition, the threshold gives the door frame additional strength.

Preparing the doorway and checking the floor level are absolutely identical to assembling without a threshold, but further steps have their differences.

So, here are the step-by-step assembly instructions:

1. File the lintel to its original dimensions. The length of the lintel will be equal to the length of the door leaf + 6 mm for the gap. You need to make two such blanks - this will be the threshold. Do not forget to trim the workpieces, since the factory cut may not be even.

2. On loop and bevel beams, it is necessary to remove the thrust quarter.

To do this, we connect the end of the vertical post and the horizontal one and put a mark with a sharp pencil.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
The size must be transferred with maximum clarity so that there are no gaps. Repairing them in the future is not problematic, but it will ruin the aesthetic component of the doors.

We make a cut to a depth of a quarter with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Be extremely careful not to touch the work surface. It is not possible to fix the “jamb” on MDF doors.

Then, using a chisel or a utility knife, carefully remove it. We repeat the operations for all angles.

IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
If you use a chisel, then under no circumstances turn it over with its top sharpened side down. When carrying out work, the working part will crash into the material and all the work will go down the drain. The same rule applies when inserting loops.

3. Connect the box. We also drill holes and tighten them with self-tapping screws. The only difference is that galvanized screws are used for the threshold if it is the threshold of an entrance door. They are less affected.

Consumables and tools

Everything you need to install an interior door yourself is listed below:

hacksaw or saw;
chisel;
miter box;
building level;
Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver;
tape measure at least 3 m;
polyurethane foam;
hammer;
dowels and screws;
pencil;
sealing tape;
spirit level – short (50 cm) and long (180 cm);
universal screws;
knife;
square;
wedges - wooden or plastic;
finishing nails.

Door frame tenon connection

One of the ways to assemble door frames is a tenon joint. It's not as common as 45° and 90° assemblies, but it does exist.

The joining of parts occurs through tenon joints (see picture)

Usually the achieved rigidity is quite sufficient, but galvanized nails can be added to enhance the strength characteristics.

Connecting planks at an angle of 45 degrees

As in the previous case, before installing the door frame intended for an interior door, the structure is assembled on a flat floor base. The elements of the box frame are laid out on a plane, preliminary measurements are taken, and calculations are made. The structure is assembled from two vertical profiles, a lintel, a rebate and a hinge post.

The height of the vertical slats of the frame is equal to the height of the door leaf + the thickness of the lintel + 2 gaps between the slats and the wall (3 mm each) + the thickness of the threshold (if any).

The length of the threshold with a jumper is calculated in the same way. It is equal to the width of the door leaf + the thickness of the vertical frame slats + 2 gaps between the frame and the entrance wall (3 mm each).

After performing the necessary calculations, markings are applied to the beam and the excess part is cut off. Next, a section for the vestibule is marked on the profile, which is also removed.

Blanks prepared from timber are placed around the perimeter of the door leaf. Pieces of cardboard 3 mm thick are placed between them to obtain the required technical gap.

Next, markings are made for the placement of loops on which the canvas will be hung directly. To do this, you need to retreat 20 cm from the top and bottom of the vertical strip of the frame and draw a line. Loops are placed along these lines, their second edges are marked, and self-tapping screws are screwed through the holes to mark the attachment points.

Next, the loops are removed and, according to the applied markings, using a chisel, material is selected from the plank to a depth equal to the thickness of the loops. After this, they are inserted into the resulting recess and twisted.

After this, all the elements of the box are folded together while maintaining the gaps. Their perpendicularity to each other is adjusted, after which the connection is made using screws. It is recommended to make holes for them in advance. In this case, the screws are screwed in at an angle of 45 degrees.

Dismantling the old structure

If you plan to replace an old door, the first step is to dismantle it. The procedure for disassembling the door structure:

Removing trim and door leaf;
Removing anchor bolts and other fasteners;
Removing box parts.

Before assembling and installing a new door frame for an interior door, you need to check the strength of the wall opening and, if necessary, strengthen it yourself.

It is recommended to carry out dismantling work slowly, carefully, without breaking out elements of the old structure, so as not to damage the base of the interior opening. Otherwise, you can increase the amount of work and, accordingly, the time and financial costs of installing a new door block.

How to take measurements correctly

Removing dimensions from a door frame is done in 2 ways: by taking the dimensions of the opening and the parameters of the door leaf. In the first case, 3 indicators are measured. The height and width of the passage, the thickness of the wall on all three sides (right and left sides, top) are measured. You also need to measure the diagonal, since this indicator acts as a control during the manufacture of the door frame. The thickness of the box depends on the walls. The second option involves taking dimensions from the door.

First of all, the sides are measured, and 5 cm are added to the results, and then the threshold, taking into account allowances. It must be remembered that there should be a gap of 2-3 mm on both sides between the closed door and the leaf. The margin between the wall and the frame is ideally 1 cm on each side. This place will be filled with polyurethane foam. Thus, the door frame is made 2 cm narrower than the opening.

Step-by-step installation process

To secure the assembled frame in the opening and install the doors yourself, you must perform the following steps:

Install the frame into the opening. To keep it in place, insert temporary spacers made of cardboard or foam plastic between the box and the wall.
Prepare wedges that will be necessary for final installation and alignment of gaps. For them, you can use waste beams sawn at different angles.
We begin to wedge the product. First, place the wedges directly under the hinges. They will prevent deformation of the beam when we screw it to the wall. Drive one wedge into each upper corner. To prevent the structure from moving, two wedges will be required from each corner. They are inserted from opposite sides so that the narrow parts intersect.
Next, we check the position of the frame and each of its elements with a level. The box should be flush with the wall.
We fasten the sidewall.
We carry out the final installation of the cover part after we hang the canvas on the hinges. To ensure that the frame holds firmly while we screw the hinges and install the sash, we can partially foam the gap along the fixed side and in two or three places on the hinged part.

Tip: Before foaming, you need to clean the surface from dust and moisten it with water from a spray bottle. These measures can significantly increase adhesion.

While the foam dries, we install hinges and other fittings on the canvas, then put it in place.
We wedge the hinged part of the door when the door is in the closed position. Then we secure it and foam the cracks around the perimeter.

Another important condition in order not to disturb the geometry of the frame during the installation process is the use of spacer wedges that correspond to the width of the box and are inserted across it.

The final stage of installation of the frame and door is the decorative design of the opening with platbands.

The door catches the frame: how to fix the problem?

If, after installation, the door leaf rubs against the frame, the door closes with difficulty or does not close tightly, it is necessary to find out the reason.

Led the box

In such a situation, the first thing to check is the correct installation and reliability of the door hinges. If they are not the reason, it means that the box was deformed as a result of swelling of the construction foam due to significant temperature changes.

To eliminate the resulting defect, the door frame must be drilled through and connected to the concrete wall using long screws or anchors. The holes are then decorated with plugs.