Heat-resistant grout for stoves and fireplaces: how to choose and use? Types, application methods, characteristics and manufacturers

Fireplaces and stoves in a country house or country house perform both room heating and decorative functions.

All materials used in the construction and decoration of heating devices must withstand high temperatures: brick, glue, plaster, tiles and oven grout. In addition, the choice of each of these materials has its own characteristics related to their functional purpose. The cladding elements and the seams between them are located on the surface of the stove, so they must have not only heat resistance, but also decorative properties, organically fitting into the interior of the room.

The role of grout for ovens

Grout is one of the integral materials used when laying tiles. It has not only a decorative function, but also a protective one. The grout not only perfectly handles the seams between the tiles, but also prevents dirt and moisture from getting under the tiles.

Grout can also transform a room and become a highlight; to do this, you can use a design trick and use a grout that is different from the color of the tile, but it is important to choose the contrasting color correctly.

Best answers

If Your Life Is an Ass, Do OpaOpa:

In our case, during the combustion process, the completely open one is pushed back a little bit at a time and finally closed when all the coals have burned out

Market relations:

close immediately

Grey:

Usually there are two dampers, one “summer” - direct, the other “winter” - through the channels of the butt, close the summer one as soon as it flares up, and close the winter one completely when everything burns out, so that the heat does not escape into the atmosphere. and each stove has its own character

Abyr Val:

Hmm, I always fired it with the damper and vent completely open. I'd probably save some money.

Frida:

I think you are right logically

Sergey Kurbanov:

Everyone has their own stove. The main thing here is to know that you CANNOT close THIS damper UNTIL EVERYTHING IS BURNED! FUCK OFF! But other.. . I’ll tell you a secret, in addition to the damper there is also a BLOWER! That is, the blower cap is correct. And by opening or closing it, you can also achieve a normal combustion level. So we don’t touch the damper at all, i.e. it’s open, I regulate the draft by blowing. BUT if you have a Russian stove, without a blower cover, without grates...

then you may also have a tower, which can also be used to shut off the stove WHEN EVERYTHING BURNS, of course. The point here is that different stoves melt differently. In addition (you probably noticed) that you can still close the valve when the oven warms up, which is what you do

So it’s important not to get burned by the smoke.

Tatiana:

When all the wood has burned out and the coals are flickering with a red light... It is dangerous to close if, after stirring the coals, there is at least one blue light.

Types of heat-resistant grout for ovens

You can find a variety of grouts on sale; they differ from each other based on the base from which they are made.

The most common and well-known grouts are based on cement or cement with the addition of sand. Grouts based on Portland cement can be purchased ready-made (the consistency is suitable for use from the moment the package is opened), and dry mixtures are also available for sale, which must be diluted with water or latex, and then used.
Grouting using epoxy resin and a special component that ensures the hardening of the composition. The use of latex grout makes the seams more neat, but using latex grout is not so easy, in order to work with it you need to have certain skills, so it is most often used by professionals. The price of grout is much higher than cement grout.

Putty materials

Inventive people are ready to give advice on any matter, including the choice of materials for repairing stoves. Recommendations must be taken carefully, separating the wheat from the chaff.

A mixture of clay and sand

There are well-known putty compositions that have been tested many times over. You can use them without any doubt.

It is customary to cover stoves with clay. The material definitely inspires confidence, but first you need to check what type and grade of clay is suitable for making mechanically strong, heat-resistant putty. The stove should be sealed so that it does not crack later.

The composition is prepared by mixing equal parts of clay and sand. Both components must first be sifted and separated from large impurities. Due to the fact that the clay composition in different deposits varies greatly, it is advisable to check the strength of the mixture.

Advice! You need to make balls from the slurry formed after adding water, let them dry well and examine them carefully. If cracking is not visible, the materials are suitable.

It would be advisable to tighten the inspection requirements by throwing dried cakes from a low height. If they did not collapse and successfully passed the tests, the chances of making a high-quality repair of the furnace increase.

When preparing homemade putty, monitor the condition of the wooden mixing spatula. The gruel should not stick to it. If clay adhesion is noticeable, it is better to increase the amount of sand in the mixture.

Of course, if possible, it is advisable to take a special type of clay - fireclay. It is characterized by fire resistance and strength. You can buy it in building materials departments. Before use, fireclay raw materials should be kept in water for a couple of days.

Adding straw and horse manure

A popular folk method of preparing grout for stoves is to add chopped straw or chaff (husks, chaff) to the mixture of clay and sand. You need a lot of it. So, if 4 buckets were taken of clay, one bucket of sand will be needed, and straw - from 40 kg to 45 kg. You can hear advice about the benefits of adding salt to the grout at the rate of half a regular glass per bucket of the mixture. It is recommended that the quality and quantity of additional components be determined based on the local situation.

Important! You cannot use mortar with straw for laying. It is only suitable for covering surface cracks, for plaster.

In some places, people recommend covering stoves with a mixture containing horse manure. Now it is not so easy to find it, it makes no sense to insist on such technology.

Special formulations

If there are building materials stores nearby and you are willing to spend money, it is better to buy ready-made adhesives: soft or hard. The viscous solution is convenient for covering small cracks. Complete plastering of the stove can be done with solid compounds. Sometimes cracks in the masonry are sealed with a special heat-resistant sealant, and small cracks are filled with asbestos fiber.

Buying grout for the stove

You can buy a ready-made mixture for processing tile joints on a stove at any hardware store, but before purchasing, make sure that it meets all the necessary qualities:

Stability at high temperatures. How well a composition can withstand elevated temperatures is one of its main qualities. Since the surface of the oven heats up, and along with it the tile itself and the seams;
Moisture resistance. For stoves located in a bathhouse, resistance to moisture is more important than ever. It cannot be assumed that moisture resistance is not important for a home stove, since it will need to be cleaned of various contaminants using household chemicals and water;
Resistant to sunlight. When the sun's rays hit colored surfaces early or late, they contribute to fading. The manufacturer indicates how long the color of the grout will remain unchanged;
Grain composition. The finished compositions have two types of grain size. A coarse composition of this type creates a ribbed surface; a fine-grained composition, when used, creates a smooth glossy surface;
Choice of grout color. Grout can be selected in three ways. The first two are classic. The color closest to the grout color is selected, or, on the contrary, the color opposite to the color of the tile is taken.

The third method is considered the most interesting; a contrasting grout color is selected, but most often the designer is responsible for selecting colors.

Recommendations for choosing a suitable reveal

A tile fugue has two main purposes: protective functions and giving the tiled surface an attractive and finished look that matches the overall design of the room. When choosing a suitable mixture, you need to study the characteristics of various compositions and be guided by the following criteria and factors:

surface operating conditions;
type and quality of material used for cladding;
type and condition of the surface (horizontal or vertical);
depth and width of the processed seam.

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Grouts from trusted brands

"Terracotta". The grout, which is produced in white, is colored using colors. It withstands temperatures up to 400 degrees and resists moisture. It is sold in bags with a capacity of up to 20 kg. When used, the mixture behaves obediently and does not spread. Popular mass among consumers costing 900 rubles.
Isomat Multifill Smalto. Grout, which is produced in various colors, is well resistant to moisture, high and low temperatures. On sale it is presented in bags with a capacity of 2 kg, the cost is 350 rubles. The finished composition has good plastic qualities, thereby not causing any difficulties in working.
PLITONIT Super Fireplace ThermoRepair. Used for grouting joints of stoves and fireplaces. The mixture is available for sale in 5 kg bags, costing 350 rubles. It tolerates exposure to various temperatures and moisture well. The composition is flexible and does not cause any difficulties in working.
Mixonit Fuga KL. A universal product used to work with various types of tiles. Tolerates high temperatures and repels moisture. The color palette is varied, which changes the cost, ranging from 600 to 700 rubles. To place the composition on the surface you will need a construction gun.

What causes cracks on the stove?

The stove is the heart of the sauna, and any breakdown of it leads to certain consequences. For example, when gaps and cracks occur, the likelihood of a fire or carbon monoxide escaping into the room increases. All this poses a direct threat to human life. Why cracks occur:

If defects form in the first days of using the stove, the reason can be called neglect of operating rules. Craftsmen recommend letting fresh masonry stand for some time without ignition. This is necessary so that the binding solution dries and the bricks dry out.
Increased humidity in a house with insufficient ventilation. If the bricks are damp, sudden drying of the fireplace can cause cracks to appear.
The stove cracks when the masonry material and the mortar for connecting the bricks have different coefficients of thermal expansion.
Lack of uniformity in heating. Everything is simple here - if spot heating occurs (firewood is stacked high in one stack), then a significant temperature difference with the walls is ensured. This indicates that cracks will soon appear.
Violation of foundation laying rules. A stove, like any structure, must be built on a solid foundation. If during improper heating it splits, then the hearth itself will soon fail.

On a note!
At the planning stage of a future stove complex for a residential building or bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of the room, the characteristics of the building material and binding solution, grout, metal inserts (plugs, pipes, slabs, doors, etc.).

Making your own grout

It is also possible to make grout at home. There are several cooking options. For the first option, you need to purchase plaster and water-repellent liquid (sold in a hardware store), all components must be connected together and water added until a mixture is formed, the consistency of which will resemble sour cream.

For the second option for making grout at home, you will need clay and cement in a ratio of 5 to 1; a composition is mixed with the addition of water, which can be used as a grout.

How to install doors

Scheme of laying the stove in rows.

Near the door frames, masonry is carried out with special care. The masonry and frame must always have a gap between themselves in height and width of up to 5 mm. This is a necessary point, because when heated, the frame expands, and when cooled, it contracts again. When the masonry is tightly adjacent to the frame, the brick gradually moves apart and the masonry subsequently collapses. The frame is separated from the masonry by asbestos tape coated with clay mortar. If you leave only the solution, it will quickly crumble.

The door frame is secured directly to the masonry using handles in four places. To do this, use lobes and twisted wires, 4 of them. To optimally secure the earlobes, holes are needed in the frames

It is important that the ends of the lobes are deeply and securely embedded in the seams. To do this, nails without heads are tied to them, their length is approximately 120 mm

Thanks to such nails, the knitting is firmly pinched in the seams. Instead of wire, they use paws made of strip iron; when they are pinched in the seams, the fastening is more reliable than wire claws.

The door frame should not be used as a support for laying bricks.

Grout application options

There are several options for using grout.

Semi-dry method

To implement it, the grout mixture is diluted with a small amount of water so that the consistency is similar to wet sand. Next, the mixture is placed into the seams using a special jointing tool.

This method has a number of disadvantages; in order to use this option, you must have experience in processing seams, otherwise the seams will soon crumble.
This method can only be used for seams no larger than 5mm. The color palette is limited to only two colors: gray and white.

Using a construction gun

To do this, the grout mixture is diluted with water and placed in a construction gun. After that, the composition is squeezed through a narrow spout into the seam using a gun, and the excess is removed.

To seal the seam, the mixture can be further pressed inward.

This method is very convenient to use; you can use colored compounds, but it is not the most budget-friendly method.
It is necessary to purchase a suitable composition and special tools.

Applying grout to the entire surface area

Dilute a mixture similar in consistency to sour cream, apply it to the entire surface of the tile, then use a rubber spatula to remove excess from the surface of the tile and wipe it with a damp towel.

A fairly common method of application with a long service life, but at the same time quite expensive and does not have a large palette of colors.

Operating rules

Before starting to work with heat-resistant grout, the surface of the stove must be thoroughly cleaned, removing dust, dirt, old plaster, and residual mortars or adhesives.
After laying the tiles, you should wait at least a day until the lining is completely dry. In damp, cold rooms, complete setting of the mass that fixes the tiles to the brick wall may take longer. In such a situation, it is better to play it safe and wait a few days.

Grouting must be done at an air temperature of at least +5, maximum +35 ℃. In very cold rooms, the composition will not fill the cracks well, and in hot rooms, the mixture will dry out too quickly, which may affect the quality of the seams.

After opening the package, fugu should not be stored in air for a long time. Take the required amount and close the bag or container with the product after a maximum of 15 minutes.

With prolonged contact with the environment, the contents may absorb moisture from the air and deteriorate. For the same reason, a ready-to-use heat-resistant composition should be used within an hour.

If the portion is not enough, you should prepare the next, fresh mass.

To fill the seams with heat-resistant grout, you can use a rubber spatula or a special gun. Of course, using a gun is much more convenient; the product is applied carefully between the seams, without getting on the front part of the cladding.

The paste is placed into the gun tube using a narrow spatula, then the end of the nozzle is cut off at an angle of 60°, resulting in a hole with a diameter of up to 8 mm being formed in the nozzle.

The nozzle is inserted into the space between the seams, the grout is slowly squeezed out and the gun is moved along the entire length of the seam. The result is a beautiful, uniform layer that performs protective and decorative functions.

Photo of heat-resistant grout for stoves and fireplaces

Some brands of thermal paints

To paint metal products operating at high temperatures, you will need paint that can withstand temperatures of 600 degrees or more. Buying heat-resistant metal paint for stoves is not a problem. Here are a few samples of thermal paints with descriptions of their characteristics:

heat-resistant enamel CERTA from the Russian manufacturer Spectrum.

Heat-resistant paint Certa Designed for temperatures from -65 °C to +900 °C. That is, you can paint with enamel even in severe frost. The paint is available in 26 colors and shades. Heat resistance is not the same for all colors. Black heat-resistant paint for metal can withstand temperatures up to 900 degrees, others - lower. The least heat-resistant colors are designed for 400-500 ° C. Packaged in all popular types of containers. Depending on the color and temperature conditions, a 0.8 kg can of paint costs 300-550 rubles;

Hansa is a heat-resistant paint that is packaged in all types of containers.
The palette has 16 shades. Designed for temperatures up to 800 °C. Suitable as a coating for stainless steel; Heat-resistant enamel Kudo

Kudo is an organosilicon thermal enamel produced in Russia. Withstands temperatures up to 600 °C. Available in 20 shades. Packaged in 520 ml cans. You can buy Kudo heat-resistant metal paint for 150-180 rubles;

Bosny is a heat-resistant aerosol. Available in two versions: for temperatures up to 650 °C and for temperatures up to 200 °C. It has excellent durability and is used for surfaces made of various materials. Aerosol heat-resistant paint is packaged in 400 ml containers. A more heat-resistant one costs 470 rubles, and a less heat-resistant one costs 355 rubles;

Hammerite is a thermal paint for metal. A special feature of this brand is that it can be applied to surfaces covered with rust. This is unacceptable for other brands. On the other hand, Hammerite is not oil or gasoline resistant. The paint is packaged in 250 ml jars and should be applied with a brush in one layer. Designed for temperatures up to 600 °C;
ELCON is a corrosion-resistant thermal paint that is suitable for all basic oven materials.
Elcon heat-resistant enamel It retains its properties at temperatures up to 800 ° C, as well as during sudden temperature fluctuations. The palette has a large number of colors. You can buy heat-resistant metal paint of this enamel for 440-480 rubles. The price depends on the color. The paint is also packaged in 520 ml cans, it costs 340 rubles. and is designed for temperatures up to 700 °C;
KO-8111 Thermal is a heat-resistant paint that is suitable for various surfaces. Withstands temperatures up to 600 °C. Also effective where there is exposure to aggressive substances. Well suited for fireplaces and stoves, except those used in baths. For the latter, it is better to take products of the same brand - KO-8101 and KO-8104. They are designed for the same temperature conditions, but have good water resistance;
Rust-Oleum is a paint designed for very high temperatures (up to 1093 ° C). Provides protection against oil and gasoline. Packaged in aerosol cans, it comes in white, black and gray colors, as well as transparent. Gives the surface a matte finish. Costs 620 rubles.

You can use any of these paints to paint a heating boiler, but not all are suitable for sauna stoves.

Secrets of brickwork

It is better to lay the stove out of refractory fireclay bricks

.
To save money, you can line only the firebox with it, but use regular silicate for the remaining parts of the stove. However, it is not recommended to combine them in one bundle, as well as bricks from different manufacturers: with temperature changes, the degree of their expansion will be different, so such a stove may “lead.” Fragile hollow bricks are not used for masonry
.

Types, sizes and weight of bricks
1. For the installation of stoves, orders are used: detailed diagrams in which the process of laying each row is indicated. The location of fireclay refractory bricks in the furnace in such diagrams is indicated by shading or highlighted in color. It is strongly not recommended to change the order unnecessarily: deviations in the scheme can lead to narrowing of the chimney channels.

Laying fireclay for fireboxes and chimneys and sand-lime bricks

2. Before laying bricks, 2 layers of waterproofing

: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with mastic. To protect the solution from dehydration, the brick is first soaked in water for a couple of minutes.

3. Its first row is laid out dry without mortar. Next, the layout is carried out with overlapping joints

previous row. Each seam must be completely filled with mortar, without voids or cavities.

4. The row is laid from the corners (see photo). After this, the entire row is laid between two corner bricks.

Row laying

5. Each row is checked by a building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical.

6. To avoid mistakes, the row is first laid out without mortar. Then the serial number of each brick is signed with chalk, they are removed and finishing masonry begins. Not only horizontal, but also all vertical seams are coated with the solution with a layer of 3-5 mm.

7. The hob and grate are laid with a gap of 5 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.

8. The doors of the firebox and blower are insulated with asbestos and additionally fastened with wire, which is placed in the seams of the masonry. For its fastening in the cast iron frame, special holes must be provided.

Fastening the oven doors

9. The walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth and even. Lumps of soot will accumulate at the joints and chips of bricks, so only perfectly smooth bricks without defects are used to construct chimneys. Remains of the solution in such places should be immediately wiped off with a rag or cloth.

10. When constructing a pipe, the most difficult part is the section passing through the attic floor. The walls in this place are increased so that their width exceeds 38 cm, while the cross-section of the chimney remains unchanged.

The diagrams below show the order

a small Swedish stove for 570 bricks with a hob. To construct such a furnace you will also need:

• cast iron stove with two burners;

• doors made of cast iron for the firebox and ventilator;

• 3 cleaning doors for soot removal;

• steel strip for covering over the cooking cavity.

Video: Laying a brick oven with your own hands

Why is jointing needed?

Additional processing, i.e. jointing or grouting the seams of brick masonry is done to protect the seams and the masonry itself from atmospheric moisture and premature deformation. This increases the stability of the walls and the entire structure, seals and waterproofs the masonry, and improves the thermal insulation of the house.

Figured filling of brickwork joints is becoming an important element of the aesthetic design of facades. The seams acquire a uniform color and shape. At the same time, minor errors and unevenness of the masonry are eliminated.

Jointing the seams gives additional decorative properties to the brick wall.

In addition, the jointing is used as an element of interior wall decoration. With its help you can add a special charm to the interior. A wall on which decorative jointing has been carefully applied will become an excellent backdrop for the decor as a whole.

Grouting of brickwork joints is also used for the restoration of brick buildings built many years ago. The walls of such houses usually have an unattractive appearance and lose strength due to partially deformed seams. New brick jointing for an old house will extend its life and give it an attractive appearance.

Joint jointing of brickwork

The procedure for jointing brickwork comes down to processing and sealing the seams between individual bricks. Joining has a beneficial effect on the appearance, enhances stability, and increases the insulation of a brick structure. Thanks to high-quality jointing, the structure acquires a harmonious and finished appearance.

Joining is done when finishing external walls and decorating internal ones. For buildings exposed to weather conditions, jointing is the most relevant solution for maintaining the integrity of the building. But this is not its only purpose.

If you make high-quality grout between individual bricks, it will help to significantly reduce the amount of moisture that destroys the cement base directly through the joints. Therefore, the jointing acts as protection and increases the service life of the entire building, reducing the need for frequent and expensive repair and construction work to restore the masonry.
Performs the function of thermal insulation, preventing heat leakage through masonry joints.
The paneling of the interior walls enriches the interior and gives it a special flavor.
Jointing can be used not only on brickwork, but also on bases made of natural stones. Thanks to this, the structures receive additional strength and a more neat, attractive appearance.

If you want to create an attractive building for long-term use, then you should not neglect the important stage of jointing.

Joining options

There are several types of jointing:

Flush or undercut. It is considered the most common and used type of jointing of brick joints. The process of this jointing boils down to removing excess mortar from the wall using a tool - a trowel. Then, using a stiff brush, additional processing is carried out between the brick seams, which acquire ideal smoothness and an attractive appearance.
Recessed rectangle. Despite the laboriousness and complexity of performing this jointing, it is used to create an aesthetic appearance. To do this, remove the old mixture to a depth of 6 mm, then seal the seams. To process joints, use a special rounded dowel.
Concave. This is also one of the most common methods for unstitching seams. The process boils down to eliminating the protruding compound, followed by processing the seams with a jointing tool.
The beveled type of jointing is done using a trowel, which eliminates excess masonry composition and forms an acute angle. In this case, the size of the recess should not exceed 3–4 mm.