The world over-idealizes the Scandinavian countries, says English journalist Michael Booth. He lived in Denmark, Sweden, Norway and Finland for more than 10 years and wrote an honest book about the inhabitants of these countries, their habits and characteristics that tourists do not immediately notice. In Helsinki, the author of the book “Almost Perfect People” had to experience something special. He took a long time to decide and finally did it.
It happens in the early evening. I am walking, completely alone and somewhat embarrassed, through a rather run-down area of Helsinki. The first floors of apartment buildings are occupied by Thai massage parlors, sex shops and peep shows. There is such a delicately localized, somewhat theatrical “nest of debauchery” in every Scandinavian capital.
For those who imagine Scandinavia from pictures from the British and American press - tanned children splashing in pristine fjords, men smoking pipes in simple wooden chairs, and women in artfully knitted sweaters baking spelled bread - such a sight may be shocking. But for Scandinavia, such neighborhoods are as familiar a part of the city landscape as ascetic churches and cozy cafes.
I usually didn't feel dangerous in these areas (on those rare occasions when I had to go through them to get somewhere else). But now I feel a little uneasy, because I am going to do something completely terrible of my own free will.
I stop to think again. I didn't tell anyone where I was going, so no one will be interested in whether I succeeded or not. Having thus convinced myself, I continue on my way. I am attracted by morbid curiosity, spurred on by the irresponsible freedom that anonymity opens up, my hand clutches a piece of paper with an address.
I could go back to the library, where I spent half a day collecting information in warmth and comfort. But if I leave Helsinki without going through what I have to go through, my Finnish experience will be incomplete. At home they will ask me if I succeeded, and I will have to admit that I chickened out. Or you'll have to lie, which is even worse. No, I must experience everything myself, although this will mean giving up some important life principles.
I'm going to spend my time in a typically Finnish way. For a Finn, this is an immoral act - about the same as homemade crafts for a Briton or adultery for a Frenchman. I have a Finnish friend who generally only talks about this. When we met, he praised “this” in every possible way for more than an hour. Every time we meet, he jumps on this topic, bringing up new arguments to convince me to try.
SaunaArla
Photo: banyapro.ru
Located in the Kallio area, SaunaArla has existed since 1929, and is one of the city’s iconic places. Arla is reminiscent of the 20s of the last century, when people moved en masse to the city and did not yet have showers in their apartments, so they often visited saunas. It has a reputation as an authentic sauna and section for men and women. The stoves are heated with natural gas and wood. In addition to traditional bath procedures, visitors are offered excellent massages and even cupping procedures. If desired, you can also buy drinks and light snacks here.
- Address: Kaarlenkaty, 15.
- Ticket price: 12 euros
Moscow — The sauna unites Russians and Finns. We love to take a steam bath. True, our eastern neighbor calls the sauna a bathhouse.
Despite the coronavirus epidemic, Russians go to public baths almost as actively as before.
When I take a steam bath in Russia, Russians often share with me their ideas about the Finnish sauna. They believe that Finns steam in a hot and dry sauna and do not use brooms.
Of course, this is a misconception. However, a Russian bath is really very different from a Finnish sauna.
First of all, the steam room in a Russian bath is heated using a closed heater running on gas. Outwardly it resembles a Finnish baking oven.
The main difference is in the rituals.
For example, Russians never take a steam bath without a bath cap. The absence of a hat immediately gives away the Finn. I loved the hat: it protects my head well from overheating.
Helsingin Sanomat 21.11.2020 Al Jazeera 21.06.2020 Helsingin Sanomat 21.03.2020 Ilta-Sanomat 09.06.2019
The bath ritual that I encountered in many public baths in Moscow and St. Petersburg may seem more strange. It's called "steaming."
The bathhouse attendant and his assistant are heating up an empty bathhouse. Water is poured onto the heater several times, then hot air is dispersed throughout the bathhouse - for example, using a sheet.
Mint, horseradish and even garlic can be hung from the ceiling. This will fill the bathhouse with strong aromas.
When the bathhouse is ready, everyone is invited to the shelves. The ritual begins.
Everyone enters the hot bath at the same time.
Some people climb higher, others stay on the lower shelves. I usually choose a place somewhere in the middle.
The shelves in public baths are usually wide and flat; you can not only sit on them, but also lie on them.
Then the bathhouse attendant arrives and begins to direct hot air at the red-hot visitors. The bathhouse is filled with groans, but in general the scalding steam can be endured in silence.
In Russia, it is customary to steam in silence - at least in front of the bathhouse attendant.
At the end of the ritual, visitors reward the bath attendant with applause and go to cool off in a pool of cold water. The procedure is repeated after an hour.
Then the next ritual begins - this time with bath brooms.
Usually two brooms are used: one in each hand.
Bathhouse visitors take turns whipping each other. A broom can be made from birch, oak, alder and juniper branches.
Sometimes we go down to have beer or tea. In many public baths you can order food during the break.
After the bath, everyone says to each other: “Enjoy your steam!”
I, a gloomy Finn, really liked the bathhouse. Bathhouse traditions say a lot about the collectivism of Russians - and, in my opinion, this is the best thing about the bathhouse.
InoSMI materials contain assessments exclusively of foreign media and do not reflect the position of the InoSMI editorial staff.
KaurilanSauna
Photo: kaurilansauna.fi
This is a sauna in the city center, heated by wood stoves, and housed in a 19th century building. Its owner, Sara Lehtonen, produces and sells linen fabrics and organic cosmetics, which especially attracts ladies. The main idea of the hostess is to create a pleasant atmosphere for communication and revive the social and spiritual aspects of leisure in the sauna. The establishment operates as a public sauna from Monday to Wednesday: Monday is for men, Wednesday is for women, Tuesday is a joint day.
- Address: Heikinniementie 9.
- Ticket price: 16 euros for 2 hours.
Understanding the concepts
Our neighbors place an important place on the ritual of ablution. Finns believe that visiting this holy of holies will not only help heal the body, but also cleanse the soul. Beginners who have not found the right type of steam for themselves are interested in finding out what a Finnish sauna is.
Few people have thought about the fact that the word “sauna” in Finnish means nothing more than “bathhouse”. The popularity of this procedure among the Celtic peoples has spread throughout the world.
Photo from Heatmaster.com.ua
Initially, the exoticism of this method was perceived with caution, because the mechanism of action is that heat rises from the stones. Those present can increase the temperature in the Finnish sauna by adding water to the heated cobblestones.
There is a statement that a Finnish steam room is the opposite of a hammam. In a Turkish bath, you literally breathe water vapor and see nothing due to the dense whitish haze.
If we talk about what a Finnish sauna is, then it is hot dry air heated to 90 or even 110 degrees. It is not easy to bear such heat, so it is not recommended to sit on the highest benches.
Loyly
Photo: area-arch.it
The name of this sauna is a Finnish word that refers to the sound with which water hitting a hot stone turns into steam. The building, opened in 2016, is an example of a synthesis of modern and traditional architecture with a stylish design. Its builders were guided by the principle that the main thing for a sauna is large wood-burning stoves and a lot of fresh air. Owned by Finnish TV star Jasper Pakkonen and MP Antero Vartia, it's a fashionable evening hangout. You can easily meet Finnish celebrities in a restaurant, bar or on the terrace. Another plus is the opportunity to swim in the sea at any time of the year. The ticket price includes: towel, mat and shampoo. Bringing alcoholic drinks and snacks is prohibited.
- Address: Hernesaarentranta, 4.
- Ticket price: 19 euros for 2 hours, for each additional hour – 10 euros.
How to visit a bathhouse correctly
To get the maximum benefit from visiting a Finnish sauna, you need to follow simple recommendations that are designed to prevent possible harm to the body.
- Do not eat 2-3 hours before visiting a steam bath.
- Do not spend more than 15 minutes in the steam room.
- Take a warm shower immediately before visiting the steam room.
- It is better to lie down and relax in the steam room. Afterwards, sit for a minute and then go out.
- If you feel thirsty, drink plain water at body temperature or warm herbal tea.
- After completing all the procedures, it is useful to plunge into the pool or take a cool shower;
- The next visits to the Finnish sauna can be made longer by dividing them into several short sessions;
Interior made of wood Source svyatogorsk.clubhoteloskol.com
FinishSaunaSociety
Photo: epressi.com
This institution was founded in 1937 to preserve and popularize the traditions of the national bath culture. Today, 4,200 people are members of the club. The building on the sea coast offers its guests six saunas, heated by wood stoves, and 4 savusaunas. Club members are guaranteed access to classes and regular seminars related to the history, culture and even mythology of the sauna. The sauna has separate visiting days: Monday, Thursday - for women, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday - for men. Saturday is a day for everyone. Entrance to the sauna is primarily provided to club members and their guests, but visitors without club cards, including foreign guests, are also allowed in small groups.
- Address: Vashkiniementie, 10.
Distinctive features of the Russian bath:
- the temperature at head level does not exceed 60–65 °C, but in this air there is a higher concentration of steam than in a sauna;
- breathing in a Russian steam room with such indicators is very comfortable;
- the average temperature in the steam room is about 60–70 °C;
- average humidity level - 20%;
- in a bathhouse, the main operating factor is steam; the level of thermal conductivity of moist air is 1.5–2 times higher than dry air;
- against the background of high humidity in the steam room of a Russian bath, moisture from the body does not evaporate so quickly, and therefore the body warms up more thoroughly and effectively.
- Basic principles of visiting a Russian bath: consistency, gradualism, optimal tolerance.
In the classical sense, a Russian steam room is a wood-burning bathhouse, but the modern market has elevated steam rooms with heaters to the rank of relevant and universal ones. In fact, the heating technology is not a fundamental difference, therefore the presence of an electric stove is quite acceptable for a Russian bath. In addition, electric ovens are much simpler and more convenient to use.
It is believed that the Russian steam room in its properties is as close as possible to the natural conditions for the human body. Wet steam gradually affects the body and does not provoke a “shock” effect, which can sometimes occur in a Finnish steam room.
Although electric stoves cannot provide large clouds of beneficial smoke, you can practice aromatherapy, which saturates the air with beneficial components.
SaunaHermanni
Photo: saunahermanni.fi
This sauna was opened in the Hermanni district of the same name in 1953. It is heated by modern electric stoves, and has sections for men and women. Owner Mika Ahonen strives to maintain a '50s aesthetic - vintage wood-paneled walls and rooms where photographs and magazines are displayed, DJ parties, poetry readings and barbecues are held. Visitors of all ages relax outdoors near the sauna with beer and herring sandwiches. You can bring your own food and drinks or buy it all in the sauna. Towels are provided for an additional fee of 2 euros. Some hang out here for hours, since there is no time limit for visiting.
- Address: Hameentie 63.
- Ticket price is 12 euros, children under 15 years old are free.
How to behave in a Finnish sauna?
I take a decisive step inside, trying to look like a regular at saunas. A young man sits behind the glass cash register window. In a pointedly cheeky tone, I say: “Me, please...”
"Do you have a towel?" - asks the young man. Damn, I forgot. Now everyone will understand what an amateur I am.
It’s okay, the man says, I’ll rent it for you. He hands me a towel and a key on a rubber bracelet and points to the door on the right.
In the wood-panelled locker room I am greeted by a gaggle of white, saggy, wrinkled male buttocks. Thank God, at least there are no women, I note to myself, otherwise additional problems would have arisen. I find a secluded corner and begin to expose myself.
But the clothes are folded in the locker. I stand with a towel in my hands, having no idea what to do next.
Wrap a towel around your thighs - or, God forbid, will this seem like Anglo-Saxon puritanism? Maybe there are different degrees of nudity for different rooms of the bath complex? I don't even know where to go.
I pretend to rearrange my things in my locker, glancing at the others out of the corner of my eye and risking seeming like a pervert. Finally, another sauna lover walks past me with a towel casually thrown over his shoulder. I follow him. My towel is also draped over my shoulder.
Walking naked in front of strangers, I feel constrained to the point of cramps. The more I try to walk calmly, the more awkward my gait looks. We go into the shower room, and I see with horror that at the other end of the room there is a man stretched out on a massage table, being whipped with a birch broom... a woman.
She's dressed and completely focused on what she's doing, but for God's sake! I jump into the shower stall and stand facing the wall. And only after washing, I realize with horror that I have lost the object of my surveillance. Where did he go, and most importantly, did he take a towel with him? There are several towels hanging on the wall, but is his one of them?
I know Finns are obsessed with cleanliness. Can a towel in a sauna be considered unhygienic? Or, on the contrary, is it unhygienic not to take a towel with you? Do I need to spread it under myself or should I go into the sauna with my bare butt? Oh my God! And how did I decide to subject myself to such humiliation?
Kotiharjunsauna
Photo: delfi.ee
This is one of the city's oldest public saunas with a relaxing atmosphere. Heated by wood stoves, there are sections for men and women, as well as families and groups. You can bring your own brooms here and stay as long as you wish. In this sauna you can use the services of a bath attendant, and also combine the washing process with massage, skin cleansing, manicure and pedicure. During breaks between visits to the steam room, visitors, wrapped in towels, relax with mugs of beer right on the street, and this does not bother anyone.
- Address: Harjutorinkatu, 1.
- Ticket price: 13 euros, discounts for groups.
Maternity hospital, special steam and brooms
On Christmas Day, all Finns take a family bath in the evening. Then the holiday is celebrated at the dinner table. The next day, the population holds festivities, visit each other or go to a restaurant. Other facts:
- Home hospital . Before the advent of modern healthcare, people in Finland did not view the sauna as a place for entertainment. The room was also intended for the birth of children. Even when primitive maternity hospitals appeared, they were not particularly in demand, since the sanitary conditions were not normal. Therefore, steam rooms were a kind of home hospitals. Women who gave birth in ancient saunas stayed in the room for a long time until they regained their strength. As the old people say, not a single child has gotten sick in all this time.
- Beer steam . Finns and beer are inseparable, but this does not apply to the steam room. People don't drink alcohol in such a place. The drink is splashed onto hot stones, creating more steam and heat, and the smell in the room becomes more pleasant. This ancient ritual is not used anywhere in the world.
- Birch brooms . Chukhonians do not go to the steam room without these bath accessories. One person taps another on the back with a bunch of thin birch branches, which improves blood circulation. The procedure helps against mosquito bites. In addition to this type of tree, brooms are made from eucalyptus and oak.
You should not enter the room after spraying yourself with perfume, as the hot air will intensify the aroma and spoil the impression of relaxing in the steam room.
Kulttuurisauna
Photo: pinterest.com
Built in 2013 by Japanese designer Nene Tsuba and Finnish architect Thomas Toivanen near the Hakanieme Bridge, this sauna bears stylistic similarities to the work of architect Alvar Aalto, who was a big fan of the sauna. This sauna is heated by wood stoves and has sections for men and women. The establishment has several rules: no reservations, no private parties, no large groups, no alcoholic beverages and no swimsuits. The latter are prohibited because Finns do not like it when chlorine evaporates in the steam room. But in other rooms you can put your swimsuit back on. The entrance ticket includes a mat for visiting the steam room, but visitors must take care of towels themselves. Bringing drinks and food is prohibited.
- Address: Hakaniemenranta 17.
- Ticket price – 15 euros, discounts for groups.
Savusauna: what happened to the Finnish black sauna?
A black sauna is a sauna without a chimney. That is, during combustion, smoke remains in the room. That is, you first need to heat it thoroughly, heat the air and water, then wait until the smoke disappears and only then wash - the bathhouse remains warm for several hours.
Interestingly, this method of heating is not practiced anywhere else in Europe, except in Finland and Russia. And despite all the inconveniences, this tradition is gradually returning. True, it’s more like an attraction for tourists, but still. The black, smoky walls make a funny impression. They also say that smoke has a disinfecting effect.
Some people use essential oils to create a special aroma in the sauna. By the way, oils with the smell of peat and tar are often used - supposedly they remind Finns of a rough bath.
Attention: black saunas are unsafe! On average, such a bathhouse in Finland lasts five years before it burns down in a fire.
Sauna at the Yrjonkatu pool
Photo: prettywildworld.com
Yrjonkatu was opened in 1928. It became the first public swimming pool in Helsinki. After reconstruction, the classical-style building reopened its doors in 1999. In addition to the 25-meter swimming pool, the complex offers electric and wood-burning, separate and shared saunas on several floors. The pool has separate access days for men and women. Gentlemen are offered Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, while ladies can choose between Monday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday. The ticket price includes: seat mat, bathrobe and towel.
- Address: Yrjonkatu 21b.
- Ticket price: adults – 14 euros, children – 7 euros.
Family sauna Kotiharjun - “Sauna Kotiharjun”
Another popular and oldest washhouse in Helsinki was built in 1928. Over the decades, the basic structure and overall design remained unchanged: a men's steam room on the first floor and a steam room on the second floor. The upper steam room can accommodate 20 to 30 people.
Staying between visits to the steam room on an ordinary street is a common practice that does not bother anyone
Kotiharjun was extensively renovated in accordance with the requirements of architectural and historical traditions in 1999. The restoration was carried out under the direct control and support of the Helsinki Cultural Foundation. It is due to the careful and caring attitude that Kotiharjun has maintained its original architecture over the decades.
The modest Finnish sauna “Kotiharjun” has a modest dressing room without frills
In the main furnace, about 1500 kg of stones and about 800 kg of iron are placed in the main furnace to generate and maintain good heat and steam. On the men's side, stones are replaced several times a year! The atmosphere itself does not pretend to be sophisticated, but creates a feeling of home comfort and tranquility.
Interior of "Kotiharjun"
The work schedule is almost standard. Day off is Monday. On other days the sauna is open from 14.00 to 21.30. However, it is worth paying attention to certain non-working days, such as Father's Day, Independence Day, Mother's Day and others. The cost of a regular visit is €9.
There is a whole range of additional services. Massage - €35 for 30 minutes and €45 for an hour, manicure and pedicure from €45. It is possible to rent a steam room with an electric stove for small groups and families.
Sompasauna
Photo: sompasauna.fi
This sauna with a wood stove was built on the seashore in the Kalasatama area by a group of volunteers in Helsinki and is maintained by them. It operates on a self-service basis - there are no permanent employees. Anyone can come to the sauna at any time of the day, light the stove and enjoy the steam completely free of charge. And visitors to this sauna can swim freely in the sea. In another country, such a sauna would be a risky endeavor, but in calm and respectable Helsinki it is safe. A good option for budget travelers.
- Address: Southern tip of Kalasatama district, 20 minutes walk from Kalasatama metro station.
Benefits of visiting a sauna
The Finnish sauna is a unique procedure for healing all body systems - from respiratory to cardiovascular. Thanks to staying in the steam room, blood flow accelerates, blood vessels dilate, and the condition of the skin improves. The bath can help with such common problems as psoriasis, eczema and urticaria.
Steam room with shelves Source brd24.com
The low humidity and high temperature of the Finnish steam room are very beneficial for the condition of the human body. The respiratory tract and lungs are effectively cleansed, and the mucous membranes are treated. Exposure to heat causes intense sweating and accelerates metabolic processes in the body, resulting in slight weight loss.
Bucket made of wood Source subscribe.ru
The Finnish steam room is also useful for the nervous system, since hot steam promotes relaxation, calmness and relief from anxiety.
High temperatures quickly kill any bacteria and germs, so visiting a Finnish sauna is an excellent prevention of flu and other infectious diseases.
Indoor sauna Source sanforos.com
Despite the large number of advantages, the Finnish bath also has some contraindications for use:
- Chronic diseases of internal organs of an inflammatory nature;
- Oncological diseases and recovery after surgery;
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding;
- Acute period of diseases of the skin, respiratory and cardiovascular systems;
- Fever and elevated temperature;
- High blood pressure, epilepsy, tuberculosis;
- Elderly age over 60 years;
- Small children under 4 years old.
Sauna with lighting Source youtube.com
To get the maximum health benefits from bath procedures, you need to be attentive to your own body and constantly monitor its well-being. If the slightest signs of discomfort appear, you should immediately stop exposure and cool the body with water. In order for the Finnish sauna to bring only positive emotions, it is necessary to consult with your doctor before visiting it. He will take into account possible contraindications and give recommendations on the time spent in the steam room.
Sauna with heater and bucket Source vsykosmetika.ru
Kuusijarvi
Photo: cafekuusijarvi.fi
Guides in Helsinki call this sauna one of the best versions of the traditional savusauna, which is heated without a chimney. It is located in the large Kuusijarvi Outdoor Center complex, and is next to a large lake. One of the few saunas where swimming is available daily and in winter. This sauna is mixed for men and women, so it's worth bringing a swimsuit.
- Address: Vantaa, Kuursiarventie 3.
- Ticket price: adults – 10 euros, children 6 euros.
Natalia Grigorieva
